Bites: How lazy will we let brands be?

Happy Tuesday fellow Crunchers!

The new JM x WC watch has had me really questioning watch collaborations recently.

Max and Jack have gone to so much effort to fill their watch with detail and character. The colour, the rotor, the indices, the little logo... there are so many cool little Easter eggs that have been well thought-out and executed.... So it begs the question... why are other brands being so lazy?

Let's have a quick look at the world of WC this week and then come chat with me at the end...

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Three quick bites from this week's WC, for those in a rush.

"Must see! Windup Watch Fair Chicago: Day 2 " - @awatchtowear: Come and check out some brilliant watches from this month's Windup in Chicago!

"I'll just leave this here...." - @TimeCop: Come and get philosophical.

"Unpopular opinions - let's hear 'em" - @XplusYplusZ: Come and join the most colossal venting thread on WC.

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New members

New members who I have seen posting this week...

@pay2huynh, @Stan1965, @bruno.silva, @Sid_Viscous, @Speedmazda13, @tokyo_watch_guy, @snakey_jakee, @Dubeke, @megaphomaniac, @ilovecables

Welcome everyone!

Hot posts

This week's topics that got the community talking.

"I'll just leave this here" - @TimeCop

"Your one most beautiful watch" - @samdeatton

"Holiday watches: How many do you usually pack? One or a tonne" - @Watchgeekery

"Wives and watches: A fun poll " - @watchguard77

"One watch for the rest of your life" - @anonman

"Post your green dial watches" - @anonman

"Small wrist GMT suggestions" - @daelee

Meetups and events

29th July - Boston Meetup - Boston, MA

14th Aug - The WCC Summer Trivia Night Meetup Online - Online

23rd Sept - World Time UK Meetup - London, UK

20th – 22nd October - Windup Watch Fair 2023 – New York

8th December – London Christmas Meetup – London, UK

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A big thank you to @Unholiestjedi, who helped organise last week's photography challenge and chose the theme of 'Fandom'

His winners this week are @fiatjeepdriver, in his 'hearts' category, with this amazing picture...

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And @Timely_Moments in his 'heads' category with this awesome shot...

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Well done both!

Come and see the runners up and find out this week's theme here.

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My top picks from this week's new watch releases.

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Top row, left to right: Hamilton, Escudo, Holthinrichs, Casio G-Shock

Bottom row: Christopher Ward, Vulcain, Raymond Weil, Ming

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Updates from the YouTubers, podcasters, brand owners and watch makers in our community.

"New sn0105g diving watch " - @SanMartinWatches

"New design feedback" - @AdamMacFarland

"Moels & Co. 582 Dual review " - @marcusmenescal

"DX tease and a few other bits " - @GasWorks

"I found the best Breitling ever made" - @Max

"Baltic aquascaphe bronze: Three years of patina and adventure " - @AnalogExplorer

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Longer posts from the knowledgeable and creative writers amongst the WC family.

"The Glycine airman: a comparison of modern variations" - @ayadai

"One and done Chapter 11: Tag heuer" - @defsNOTgenta

"Bracelet and strap options Part 3: Green dials" - @Hakki501

"Serenity now" - @Catskinner

"My first personal showcase on sotc honoring the past perfecting the present modern iteration of vietnam war era timepieces " - @SunnyCrackit

"Watch Journey 2023: My Casio travelling around the world update" - @benandwatch

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"How lazy will we let brands be?"

We have seen hundreds of collaboration watches over the years.

Many times it can feel less like a watch made with the fans in mind, and more like an easy way for brands to make a quick buck.

Pick one of your off-the-shelf watch designs, stick the logo of whoever you want to make money with on the dial, make it a limited edition and boom... watch the money roll in....

For example... this new limited edition Seiko...

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When I say 'limited' I mean they are 'only' making 1,700 pieces (so is it really?) It's a prospex diver, with influences from baseball big guy Shohei Ohtani. This watch is apparently getting people pretty excited, being described as 'insanely cool' by watch collecting aficionados.

I'm not going to pretend I know anything about baseball, but apparently the colour of the second hand and 'Divers 200m' is from the Angels playing kit and Shohei's signature can be found on the clasp of the bracelet... and... I think that's it...

This kind of begs the question, what is the absolute minimum a watch has to do to be a respectable collaboration?

Is a different colourway all it takes?

Another example is the Moonshine MoonSwatch.

During the build up to its release there was much speculation about what form it would take and there was much fan art being created about the possibilities....

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In the end it's sole difference from the standard Mission to the Moon was the second hand, and I seem to remember Swatch saying it was assembled under a full moon by werewolves or something.

I sincerely hope that whoever was responsible for the Moonshine looked at their creation, then looked at the fan predictions and took some time to reflect...

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(Obviously they didn't, because we now have the strawberry moon to roll our eyes at)

It's a shame, because I actually thought the original MoonSwatch watches were pretty cool!

I loved the various colour options and the fact they made the design essence of the Speedy so accessible to collectors.

Other great examples of collaborations I love are Timex and their Stranger Things watches...

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the Boldr Pokémon collection...

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and, of course, the WC x JM....

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Each of these had unique design elements on the dial, unique case backs or movements and other interesting elements like the themed hand sets on the Boldr's, theme-tune alarms on the Timex models and matching strap options with the Jack Mason.

I feel like they all tried hard to be something pretty special, and they all make some of the other collaborations I've talked about look pretty lazy in comparison. They set a high standard.

Or am I missing the point?

Is what I'm calling 'lazy' actually just subtlety?

Is the minimalist approach to a collaboration watch a thing? Just a hint of a specific colour... and a small tweak of the styling... done in such a way that 'If you know, you know'.

I mean, ultimately, as with all watches, if people are happy to buy them, then it's all good... but what are your limits?

What's the minimum you would want to see in a special edition watch to convince you you weren't just being exploited?

Do you actually prefer the subtler style of collaboration watch that I'm complaining about?

Show me your favourite special edition/collaboration watch, or ones that you found disappointing!

Enjoy the rest of your Tuesday, wherever you are!

Till next week!

Kaysia.

Reply
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I need that Squirtle Boldr in my life now... Damn you Kaysia! 😤

I like the beautiful ocean dial and bezel accents of the new PADI collab. This one feels more elaborate than just a new dial color. But I can't say I'm a fan of the three logos printed on the dial now... It's getting busy.

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I hate to labour a point (you'll notice that won't stop me) but this is the only true WC collaboration watch...

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I'm thinking of doing another custom build for charity... whaddaya say?!

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after a few dozen year designing a watch maybe they became tired and lazy lol

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thank you for the post mention #watchjourney2023 I've been in contact with @AboutVintage (Danni) who would like to do a collaboration with me for another travel watch, so watch (pardon the pun) this space! 😀 thank you Ben

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Beanna

I need that Squirtle Boldr in my life now... Damn you Kaysia! 😤

I like the beautiful ocean dial and bezel accents of the new PADI collab. This one feels more elaborate than just a new dial color. But I can't say I'm a fan of the three logos printed on the dial now... It's getting busy.

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I can't believe they only released those Boldr Pokémon watches to a limited market 😭

WHY??!

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GasWorks

I hate to labour a point (you'll notice that won't stop me) but this is the only true WC collaboration watch...

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I'm thinking of doing another custom build for charity... whaddaya say?!

That was/is a very beautiful watch, and yes, you win top points for true collaboration 👏

Have we seen wrist shots of this yet??

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DeeperBlue

I can't believe they only released those Boldr Pokémon watches to a limited market 😭

WHY??!

The Venusaur mecha-quartz chrono would be mine in a heartbeat if available in NA, boldr is missing out on a huge market for this collab...

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Unholy

after a few dozen year designing a watch maybe they became tired and lazy lol

I judge too harshly you think? 😆

Tbf, I couldn't design a watch to save my life ... but then, it's not my job 😋

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benandwatch

thank you for the post mention #watchjourney2023 I've been in contact with @AboutVintage (Danni) who would like to do a collaboration with me for another travel watch, so watch (pardon the pun) this space! 😀 thank you Ben

'Another' one?

You mean another Casio flying around the world??

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snakey_jakee

The Venusaur mecha-quartz chrono would be mine in a heartbeat if available in NA, boldr is missing out on a huge market for this collab...

I wonder if they just thought Pokémon interest was higher in the eastern markets??? I can't believe that though...🤷‍♀

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Congrats to the winners of the Photo Club Weekly Challenge! Your shots @Fiatjeepdriver @Timely_Moments were really cool.

Thanks @Deeperblue for highlighting my post re. various bracelet and strap options for #greendials. I hope it proves helpful to many.

Finally, yet another good discussion topic. One of my favorite collab pieces was the Lorier Safari. The copper sector dial with explorer 12-3-6-9 was amazing.

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DeeperBlue

'Another' one?

You mean another Casio flying around the world??

no an about vintage watch this time, see my message I've sent you to the inbox 😀

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hakki501

Congrats to the winners of the Photo Club Weekly Challenge! Your shots @Fiatjeepdriver @Timely_Moments were really cool.

Thanks @Deeperblue for highlighting my post re. various bracelet and strap options for #greendials. I hope it proves helpful to many.

Finally, yet another good discussion topic. One of my favorite collab pieces was the Lorier Safari. The copper sector dial with explorer 12-3-6-9 was amazing.

This is awesome 😎😎😎😎

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Thanks @UnholiestJedi!

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DeeperBlue

That was/is a very beautiful watch, and yes, you win top points for true collaboration 👏

Have we seen wrist shots of this yet??

No wrist shots. We had a little challenge in shipping, customs, etc which meant its done a grand tour of Europe.

It's up to @angelos to post the wrist shots once he has the watch.

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I'm personally a fan of the Revolution Watch and Grail Watch collaborations. They are always something unique and special and limited editions in the truest sense of the phrase.

Here is an example of the famous Zenith "Cover Girl"...the reissue was limited to 250 pieces (which sold out instantly) and was nicknamed the "Airweight Cover Girl" as the case and the bracelet were highly polished high grade titanium. The vintage-style Gay Freres ladder bracelet in titanium is spectactular and that dial is amazing...

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Another example is the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF with its unique salmon dial limited to 25 pieces (again sold out instantly)...truly superb watch...

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There was also the Nivada Grenchen Depthmaster "No Barracuda" in full DLC black case and bracelet...super tough and bad ass limited edition...

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Then there was the incredible Franck Muller 3 piece box set with the reissues, including original NOS Lemania chronograph movements (just like the originals from the 1980s) for the two single sided chronographs, and a reissue of the famous double-sided chronograph (the second chroograph on reverse shown here as studio image)...

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I could keep going with the Hanhart 417 in 39mm in bronze with copper dial, but you get the idea...

These are real collaborations where a lot of thought went into them.

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I personally think the changing of colours and packaging that up as a “complete redesign” is a little lazy, *coughs in John Mayer X G Shock*.

For me, it needs to involve subtleties in case shape, bezel, the hands, and the bracelet/strap. Maybe even case size that works best for that collaborator or their target demographic. You know, a cumulative basket of features that show you mean it.

In the industrial design world, you need at least 7 distinct differences between your product and the competitor, so I’d like to use that as a handy rubric for what is deemed as lazy versus intentional.

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I’m still on the Ohtani signature on the clasp…I’d have it scratched off by 3pm 😂

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DeeperBlue

I had to Google the Lorier...

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Very nice!

I'd love to see that dial in person 👌

Yes, in person would be fantastic. Crosshair, sector dial, 3-6-9, minute track, lollipop seconds hand... design elements I love. And the case design... really cool. 😎

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I may not care much about baseball, but I can see the appeal of a collab "with" a superstar player, even if it's mostly limited to changing things to their team's colors. But the main sign of collaboration here is that signature, and given the fate of virtually all clasps, it's gonna be nothing but a big scrape within a year of ownership. I mean, sign the caseback?!

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DeeperBlue

I can't believe they only released those Boldr Pokémon watches to a limited market 😭

WHY??!

They're sitting there in my local AD. Does anyone want them for me to buy in your behalf and ship over? I won't make any profit, happy to be a free intermediary. My son made me try them on!

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snakey_jakee

The Venusaur mecha-quartz chrono would be mine in a heartbeat if available in NA, boldr is missing out on a huge market for this collab...

Eh...just ask one of the WC members in Singapore to buy it and ship it to you. Done.

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Here are my favourite collabs in my collection. Autodromo feature highly with their recent Hodinkee Group B Martini S4 and last year’s Worn and Wound 10th Anniversary. Also the Timex W&W, Seiko Think the Earth; and Nezumi Ruf Yellowbird II. All very creative, well designed, conversation starters, and a pleasure to wear.

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#casio #gshock DW-5600SMB-4. Hands down. Best collab ever, but not subtle at all.

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As always, a great read with some thought provoking content! I have recently been thinking about this a bit myself owing to a few recent collaboration purchases from Islander.

First, the good (at least in my opinion, and honestly, it is great to me), my Islander/Urban Gentry Rangemaster.

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This is a good collaboration between TGV and Marc that gave us an homage with its own unique design flair. According to the two of them, it took two years to design and produce the Rangemaster, and it was well worth it in my opinion. This has become one of my favorite watches in my collection.

Now, the less than good, my Spinnaker/Islander Hi Beat Croft and my Phoibos/Islander Reef Master.

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Don't get me wrong, I do like both of these watches. However, when compared to the Rangemaster, there is much less that is unique about these. The Croft has a slightly different bezel, a unique color combination, and the Islander logo, but is still pretty much a Croft, and the Reef Master only has the Islander name and a unique dial color; other than that, it is the same as the other new Reef Master releases. Of course, both are numbered releases like the Rangemaster, but in terms of actual collaboration, are quite lazy when compared to the aforementioned Rangemaster. I think this may be similar behavior to the bigger brands, with a fewer number of actual collaborations and more just slapping a different color combination together, or slapping a logo or name on an existing model. Just look at all the Citizen collaborations with Marvel, Disney, Star Wars, and now Avatar! Dials with pictures and logos, nothing more. Just my two cents.

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Problem with colabs is they're mostly embarrassingly naff! Pokémon? Black Panther? Mario? I get it the cheaper stuff entices kids to get into the hobby, but high horology Disney/game stuff is just seriously cringe, not "fun" just embarrassing.... honestly, could you take your bank manager seriously if he was wearing a Tag Mario watch?!! 😂😂

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thanks @Deeperblue !

I always spend way too long catching up on the articles you compile, and don’t get to your fun editorial until a few days later and few thousand comments have already been made

I’d push back a little - your critique was about collabs: why is it pertinent how many, or how few, of a collab is made?

For me, the number released does not relate to it being a good or bad collaboration

my alpinist x Ginza is “limited” to 3500 !! (so not at all limited, according to popular opinion) but the price has already doubled because demand exceeds supply. I think they just make the number they figure will sell.

And while I support the JM crunch watch, I don’t see it as drastically different than your examples of ‘bad collabs’ in that its basically just colorway changes. Like others in this thread, I mistakenly thought it was to be an example of a bad collab 😂

For me, a good collab has both good design AND very different features to show off. Not simple color change or stamping Stranger Things in red mid dial - that looks tacky!

My good collab: Oris Aquis Star Wars: glowing Tie fighter dive bezel pip, Imperial mark is the seconds subdial, Death Star dial face with Vader V Skywalksr circle around it, embossed stormtrooper caseback with quote from Ben Kenobi about stormtroopers in the 1977 classic movie.

they made it a limited 1300 (so not really limited?) but I think 1977 would’ve been a more meaningful number

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DeeperBlue

Well done! Competition is tough! 🍻

Very pleased

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DeeperBlue

OMG! You reminded me of the Dominoes Rolex!

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Though I have to say, I kinda like the irony in that one 😆

Hello Dominos? Can I get a large with Bulgari, Calatrava, and extra Cellini?

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Inkitatus

Problem with colabs is they're mostly embarrassingly naff! Pokémon? Black Panther? Mario? I get it the cheaper stuff entices kids to get into the hobby, but high horology Disney/game stuff is just seriously cringe, not "fun" just embarrassing.... honestly, could you take your bank manager seriously if he was wearing a Tag Mario watch?!! 😂😂

No. And I can buy my sub $200 Seikos, Citizens, Tissots and Casios without him.