Where do dials rank when you are looking to purchase a watch?

I have a question. How are you determining or defining Machine Quality / tight tolerances? I’ve been a machinist for decades, and have held tolerances as tight as +.0004 to -0 / inch on some part features. I’m not trying to be snarky. I just want to understand what you are meaning.

If you have ever put on a Monta bracelet and a Seiko bracelet you will understand. The overall machine quality is tighter and better with the Monta over the Seiko.

Okay, so you are talking about case/lug tolerance consistency? That makes sense. I didn’t know if you were referring to the movement in some way.

Dial is #1.

I’d say my top five considerations are slightly different.

1. Where and how does a perspective purchase fit into my overall collection? Since I want to keep my collection within a size constraint, a new watch has to fit within the themes I chose. A new watch could not generally be too close to a watch already in the collection, though I do love the Omega Seamaster enough to have both a blue and black.

2. Cost is a concern. For my primary collection, it’s hard for me to get up to $10k. Someday I hope to get to a precious metal piece. But that’s going to be over my current fiscal responsibility to buy.

3. Case size. 40-44 mm is my range with 42mm being the sweet spot. Also, 22mm or 20mm lug widths are preferred. I would consider lug to lug on a watch by watch basis. However, in the 40-44mm case diameter range every lug to lug distance I’ve encountered has been fine.

4. Movement. I have a strong preference for the technology and performance of the Omega co-axial movements. I also like the ETA 2892-A2 very much. In my budget sub collection Seiko is my preference.

5. Dial. I want a variety of colors.

The dial is the thing you look at every time so I can't believe anyone doesn't have it in their top 5.

Dial: It's number 1 for me. As one example, I wore my Moels recently and forgot to set the time. I must have looked at it over a dozen times during the day and only realised it was 4 hours out at the late PM.

Case size: This is a factor, 36-40 is my sweet spot, lower can be done, higher is unlikely.

Bracelet: If I'm not happy with the bracelet it can be changed.

Durability: I'm not spelunking so it doesn't factor.

Value: once you get to 4-figures then the true value is a bit academic. I think some of mine are more expensive than they should be intrinsically, but they speak to me so I'll go to maybe 25% over. Studio Underdog Watermelon is in that bracket to my mind, but it achieves the price because it resonates with watch buyers. Is a VC really worth the price tag? Is my Perception a steal in relative terms?

Dial is #1 for sure.

Dial #1 by far.

By machine quality do you mean the actual bracelet quality or how it was machined? Own both, but there is more to it than tolerances. Metallurgy, individual quality of components (clasp, links, screws, etc), in addition to tolerances make a significant difference in the two. And yes, that is a big help.

For me, if I am looking at a watch, comes down to a basic few things:

1. Aesthetics (dial, case, bracelet)

2. Fit (size) and finish

3. Movement

4. Value 1: Does the price exceed the sum of the parts and a reasonable profit?

To me, I do not care about 1 through 3 if #4 is off. Ask me why I do not own an IWC yet. They crush 1, 2, and 3, but absolutely suck at 4 for the specific watches I like of theirs (not all their watches have the #4 issues). That is not factoring in aftermarket value, which is more of a should I buy it used or new debate.

My top five in the order that I evaluate them:

1. General appearance. I can't say it's down to any one specific detail, more how all the details of appearance go together. As an example, I dislike mismatched date wheels, but I love my Marathon watches with black dials and white date wheels. They match the overall look of the watch, and serve a useful purpose. I like clean, simple dials, but I love my C60 Bronze with a distressed ombre dial. Like I said earlier, it's all down to how the whole watch looks as a package.

2. Does it have a date? I can like the look of a watch overall, but if it doesn't have a date I'm extremely unlikely to buy it. Alongside date, it's also how is the date integrated. If a brand removes an index for the date window I dislike it. Rolex and Tudor have two date "issues" for my tastes, by both removing an index, and having a mismatched date wheel.

3. Size. I prefer 38-41mm watches, but I'm not so hard and fast on those rules that other watches can't appeal to me. That said, a 45+mm behemoth is pretty much immediately a write off from my perspective. Thickness also is a factor, but I'm less picky here, anything from 6-14mm is acceptable.

4. Price. I don't play the luxury watch game, so anything more than $2500 is pretty much automatically eliminated from consideration. I'll make an exception if I find something really compelling, but apart from the Reverso and Tag Solargraph not much appeals to me.

5. Will I actually wear it? Seems obvious, but I have a few watches floating around that never get worn. Most bought before I started seriously considering this factor, but occasionally in a moment of weakness I forget to weigh this factor seriously. I'm far more likely to throw on my GSAR, C65, C63, or Navigator, than I am to put on a dress watch.

Any one of the above factors can eliminate a watch from consideration, but at the same time, if a watch is appealing enough in a couple of the factors it might be enough to result in me buying it.

Are you open to quartz movements for precious metals? Credor has a few good looking quartz watches in gold/platinum under 4k. I'm sure there are other brands out there too, I just haven't done that much research so far

I would say dial is a big part of my number one criteria, which someone has listed as appearance, to me “looks”.

I have to like the look of a watch to be drawn to it and without that I won’t bother with other criteria.

Someone above has listed brand as being important and I admit that I do use brand as a high-level filter in that there are some brands that I simply would not buy, some for good reasons and some perhaps illogically (e.g. I know I couldn’t afford to buy and service certain brands, brands that aren’t primarily watch brands, etc.).

With so much choice out there it makes sense to narrow things down - unless you’re budget and storage capacity is unlimited!

#1

It is. The dial is the main element of the watch that I look at when checking the time, which really is the reason why a watch exist in the first place.

An ugly dial, or one that is illegible, or one that shows a lack of attention to esthetic or details, is a dial that will me make think twice about considering the purchase of this watch.

I've become a case size fascist. Between 36 37 38. I'll do 39 with female end links. Lug to lug 45 or 46 preferred. But more flexible there if they curved downward.

Then dial design and aesthetics. I want artful creativity, but still legible. I'm really drawn to artistic dials. Think color and texture. They inspire me in my own drawings.

Movement type. I prefer third party, Seiko ETA Sellita. I stay away from in house if possible.

Price is a threshold for me. I can afford much but I'm not willing to pay beyond a line for watches. It's rather a variety rather than a single Uber grail watch.

If I owned an FP Journe I think I would also wear one of those suckers back up ( all that lovely gold movement ) I can picture that ALS exhibition case up in my mind …yesssss

Dial affect desirableness? Of course it does. One of the top three factors for me.

1. Value

2. Dial

3 Movement

Normally I go after Automatic movements but if a quartz has a killer dial I’m willing to make an exception. Especially if it’s a Solar/Eco Drive quartz.

I'd say the feeling the watch evokes in me overall is number one. This is intentionally vague because sometimes you can't quite put your finger on why a watch makes you feel something. The dial is definitely part of this but so can the watch history, personal experience with the watch and interaction with your wrist and style.

Aww man, I read that as "I owned an FPJ" and got all excited. I'll post my ALS tomorrow on WRUW back side up 🤣

For me, it’s

1. Dial

2. Value

3. Brand

4. History

5. Movement

My top 5 considerations...

1. I ineffably like it

Do I like it?

Does it fit me?

Will I actually wear it?

Can I afford it?

Can I do the mental gymnastics to justify it?

Something like that! 😁

https://youtu.be/Q0bjU7qAagk

Great review of this watch. I’ve been lusting for it ever since

Price is obviously the number 1 consideration. There is a lot of watches I'd like for 1/10 of what they cost ...

Then second place for me is surely the ergonomics and dimensions. Most watches are too large for me so that eliminates virtually anything I can afford already. If I can't wear it, why bother...

Then comes aesthetics which is primarily the dial and sometimes bezel. But at this stage, if the watch qualifies based on 1 and 2 I'll probably buy it... so I wouldn't say it matters a whole lot. For example, if I find a vintage/discontinued model that I like based on 1 and 2, then I will take virtually any dial configuration it comes in.

Price,size,dial,braclet

Everything comes after cize and dial finish

great thread! Interesting to see what other's look for in making the decision. I would def say, in no particular order:

• Dial/ Aesthetics

• Accuracy

• Cost/ Value

• Complications

• Brand

Dial is without a doubt towards the upper end of my list. Considering you look at it constantly, it is a huge part of the watch! Quality and time keeping is also pretty up there for me as well, but the good news is with Monta, all the points are hit IMO!