Dark Dial, Field/Adjacent - My Next Watch

These are some heavy hitters. If you're dead set on a luxury option, then The Rolex Explorer would be my choice. However, for a lot less money you can get the Tudor Ranger which is a really incredible watch in its own way.

But, there is another avenue to consider. You could go microbrand and in that universe you can get something like the Lorier Falcon for less than everything and get something wholly unique but still an excellent level of craftsmanship and design inspired by the early Explorer.

The Lorier Falcon has been on my list for a while now. Seriously considering it, but call it brand bias - it’s hard to not get sucked into the Crown.

I also really do love the Tudor Ranger, but I don’t think I have the money to fully commit to a single brand, no matter how good their selection is. I want to love all watches, not just all Tudors, in a manner of speaking.

As long as it’s not the Panerai 😂

I would recommend the Hamilton Murph for about $900

There was also a watch released late last year, the Islander Rangemaster. It was limited edition and sold out really quick but you can find it on ebay sometimes. It's another option for those field watch vibes you get from both the Panerai and the Ranger without being a clone of either.

That’s not a bad idea, actually. I’ll look into it!

And see, herein lies the conundrum. Obviously the Explorer if you can find one, but I have grown to love the look of the Panerai. I’m putting one on wrist next month when I’m near an AD, so stay tuned. I’m not a fan of Tudor or Oris, but if I had to choose, it would be the Ranger. Don’t like the PRX at all.

In the field watch style I think there are better choices… like the Hamilton and Lorier that @SpecKTator and @Chronologics suggested. Plus those watches you could actually use as a field watch without regret. Just my two cents.

Alternative Panerai?

Tudor. 🤘🏻

To be completely honest, if I am going to buy a luxury sports watch, I will actively seek to get my money’s worth. The Tudor Ranger and Rolex Explorer, for example were built for adventures - It’s in the name. So, it would be remiss of me to relegate them to special occasions or the office job.

It seems like a stupid mentality, yes, but I would rather own a luxury piece that has as many scars on it as wrinkles in my skin as opposed to retiring and regretting not being able to use it to its fullest potential.

Nope, not stupid at all. I completely agree. Watches are made to be worn and memories to be made with them. I love and respect your opinion! So then I’ll confirm my first response… Explorer 😁

I like your heavy hitters and if the goal was to get a classic black dial watch you’d be hard pressed to do better than the Explorer. Of the 3, the Hermes is the most interesting of the bunch - I think at a watch meet up, you’d likely be a 1/1 wearing it. Not sure if that matters to you but sometimes it’s fun to zig while others would choose to zag.

The others are all fine watches too… though never been fan of the ranger (mostly for the handset) and I feel a bit of fatigue looking at the PRX. My personal feelings aside, I am sure they are all worthy of addition. 🍻

After seeing your collection I would go for either the Explorer or the Hermes that is cool too!

If it can be useful in any way here there is a pic of mine

The Rolex. If the choice is between a Rolex and some other watch, then the answer is almost always Rolex. Not so much because Rolex is the be all end all of watches but because it is the generic choice in luxury watches. The only reason not to get a Rolex is because one wants something that is specifically not a Rolex. Buy an Hermes if you want that, but a Panerai if you want a Panerai and buy a Rolex if you don't know what you want 😉

They have influenced the cornerstones of modern luxury wristwatches so much that nearly everything is constructed around their base models, but with a twist. Unless you want a twist, go generic, like vanilla-flavour ice cream, because (unlike coffee-flavour ice cream with coconut chunks) that works for almost everyone. I think that has just as much to do with why they are so successful as the quality of the product.

"...I think a dark dial, relatively under-the-radar field/field adjacent watch is next."

I guess it's all relative, but the Panerai and the Tissot, IMHO do not meet this brief.

Most people are going to say the Explorer and I would agree, but good luck getting one at an AD (go grey, if you can't wait and have the cash).

Else, the Ranger or Pelagos would be good options.

The Panerai will NOT be under the radar. Even the Explorer has a lot of flash to it, though it would suit your collection. Of the choices listed, the Oris Diver 65 would be my choice, but have you considered the Tudor Pelagos 39mm?

I have two Tudors and I love them. They are the OG BB36 in black and BB58 in black gilt. In person they are very different watches. I wouldn’t be worried about having two of the same brand. Of these options, which are all great, I’d go Explorer or Ranger. They match the field aesthetic the most. The Ranger is pretty different from the Explorer, especially if you are talking about the 36mm. The Ranger is all brushed, matte dial, painted gilt indices and much bigger at 39mm. So consider that difference.

I’ll throw another wild card in, the OG BB36, same as I have. It matches the Explorer 36 look much better than the Ranger even without numerals. Lighter color steel, polished bezel and case sides, 36mm, glossy black dial, and white applied indices. It’s a much better 36mm Explorer alternative to me. And it’s much cheaper, around $2k preowned. If having the crown, an in house movement and a slightly better overall watch is worth the huge price gap, go for the Explorer it’s a great watch. But if you don’t mind giving those things up to save a lot of money, the OG BB36 is the way to go. If you did that, hell you could get another really nice watch for the price of the Explorer.

Personally I’m not a massive fan of the PRX. It’s a fantastic watch for the price, but EVERYBODY has one.

From the top three, I’d go with the Explorer I as it’s actually one of the watches I’m working towards personally. The Panerai is much too large for my wrist and I don’t really associate Hermes with high horological.

If the lower tiered three I personally love the Tudor Ranger and I feel it’s the baby brother to the Explorer I. You should also check out the Longines Spirit, the Omega Railmaster, and the Hamilton Khaki Field. They are also fantastic field watch options which offer a black dial.

I’d pick any of them besides the Tudors. If you can save for the Rolex, then why bother with Tudor. Get the real deal.

I like the Panerai best.

I know this is a minority opinion, but I like the Panerai. I wouldn't necessarily suggest it but I like it.

Others have mentioned the Lorier Falcon and I agree. It has quickly become my everyday watch. I tried on an Explorer at my local AD and yeah it was lovely. But for $500 I think the Falcon is a fantastic GADA watch with a luxury 28000 beat rate that’s going to get you the feels you want.

I think it's important to remember that watch collecting is very subjective. That said, I'd recommend taking your time and trying on the watches you think you might fancy in the flesh. I'd always wanted a Rolex Explorer II polar but it left me colnd when I tried on the 42mm variant. When I tried on the new 36mm Explorer I, I fell in love with a watch that really wasn't on my radar.

One thing I did to verify that the Explorer I was a good choice for me was to get a less expensive alternative. I did that and found out I really did want the Explorer.

If I may, I'd like to offer some advice on dealing with ADs. I've bought several watches from my AD. I've showed them that I'm not going to buy a watch and flip it for a profit. I've also shown I love watches by going in and chatting with them. I've built up a relationship on trust and love of watches, so when I asked about buying an Explorer I, they said yes. That method takes time but it will give you time to save. 😉😎👍

In order: explorer, ranger, hermes. All-most field like. Cant go wrong with any of the 7. Good luck!

I don't like most of what Rolex has to offer, but even I can't deny the Explorer. It's simple. It's perfect, in my opinion.

The Rolex Explorer

I honestly believe it will be down to those three. I suppose I have to choose between heritage and originality.

I really like the dark green version they did a while ago. I hope they bring it back sometime.

It depends on what case sizes you are looking at too. Now that the Explorer comes in 40 it has replaced the E2 as the only Rolex I would buy. If you can pull off a smaller case size the Tudor is a solid choice. I know it’s not a popular opinion here but I really like Panerai’s design language. I’ve never handled one but they sure are pretty.

I vote 40mm Explorer, then Panerai, then Hermes.

If you are thinking 36mm explorer maybe save a few bucks and go Tudor.

Whatever you decide they are all very cool watches!

If you want under the radar, probably your lower three are the way to go.

- Panerai will get attention due to size

- Hermes is hard to miss with the shape and band

- Rolex is the most discreet of this bunch, but will be difficult to get at an AD

- Tissot will garner attention because of the plating.

Of the lower tier, I think the ranger has the less presence, the most discreet.

I love a good field watch.

Of your choices, in order of my preferece:

Explorer

Pelagos

Ranger

Panerai

Oris

Hermes

My 2 cents:

The Explorer is the ultimate 3-hander. Great for all occasions. Dresses up and down. The price is punchy and the bezel is very shiny - if you actually want to wear it in anger, brace yourself for some visible scratches. Also, whilst 100m should be fine.. i'd probably not wear this for diving, given a choice. Make sure you get one with lumed numerals - they look so cool in the dark.

The Pelagos is a beast of a tool watch. Obviously more of a diver, but it will take on pretty much anything you can throw at it. It's a perfect outdoors watch. It is a bit of a chunk, but the titanium helps a little and the visibility is awesome.

Bonus:G-shock is not what you're looking for, but is probably the most capable actually in the field..

As a curveball; one watch to consider is the IWC Pilot Mark series. Very low key, but great watches and the newer ones have in-house calibres. I sold (and very much regret) an IWC Pilot Mark XVIII Heritage - it was a beast of a field watch - with lumed numerals, ti case, green fabric strap.. and had very Dirty Dozen vibes.

Or... if the 'field' we're talking about is for Polo or Croquet... there's always this, in white gold for a steal at $40k..

Or for 1/20th of that budget, but with uncannily similar vibes - the Longines Spirit is getting a lot of love at the moment. (Did Patek borrow those Longines Numerals!?)

Explorer 36.

Possibly the best watch ever made.

Can’t fault mine - it my favourite watch.

(though a bit more lume on the minute hand would be nice)