Premium Microbrand: a welcome contradiction?

I'll start by saying I've never seen/handled Oak & Oscar or Formex watches in the metal (tho I hope to rectify that at the upcoming NYC Windup Fair), so I can't speak to any noticeable quality differences between more traditional options in that price range. However, from a purely aesthetic view, the microbrands interest me more simply because they do exude more unique character and innovative design. To be honest tho, I'm more comfortable playing in the ~$1k or less micro brand space to experience different unique designs, and have noticed even at that price point, some notable differences in qualitative feel (particularly the bracelet designs and the feel of the crown). My inclination would be to bypass the $2k price tier and opt instead to put the funds towards a watch in the $5k price tier tho, where I think there's a lot more appealing options from more "traditional" brands.

....and I really enjoy your reviews, my list keeps getting longer🤝. Got my trolling line on both side of the boat.

Hope you get hands on with them, windup is a great place to satiate your curiosity!

Haha, welcome to the club!  We don't have a cure 😅

Those are awesome watches I love them, in particulare the Formex!

Do premium microbrand speak to me? Yes they do and the reason is because I'm not going to find innovation, or interesting designs, or features with the established major Swiss brands.

The only advantage the major brands may have is a "in house" movement and I'm not even sure this is really an advantage.

It depends on the design. The Formex Essence very much speaks to me. That doesn't mean the every microbrand does.

However, even in the premium segment microbrands are less locked into a brand-defining design language, and therefore definitely have a purpose.

i have bought some microbrands the past few years under 1000 but always flipped them (halios, scurfa, zelos etc...). whenever i hade over 1000 bugs to spend on a new watch i went to traditional brands like nomos or oris. i just couldnt resist the heritage aspect when deciding between a high quality micro vs a traditional brand. i was microbrandless for a few months now but changed that a few weeks ago when i impulse bought the new chr. ward trident pro 300m which has crazy good specs for 1000 bugs micro imo. and 2 days ago I ordered the coming up circula protrail fieldwatch which is imo one of the best speced microbrand piece this year (antimagnetic, hardened case, sapphire, swiss movement, 150m wr,.... and all for 750 bugs!!)

I think that some micros are defnitly overpriced when you go above the 1000 bugs... but of course you have to consider good design. if the design speaks to you and you cant live without it, just pull the trigger and accept to pay a higher price for a micro. because in the end it is just important, that the watch puts a smile on your face when you look down on it 😉

here 2 pics of my c.ward and the upcoming circula:

I like microbrands because we get to see something new from passion manufacturers. Often microbrands expose what the major manufacturers are ignoring = ease of use bracelet and bezel changes are great examples. Many are using movements major manufacturers are using without some brand specific tweek. I'm willing to spend at this price point for a cool microbrand. Of course I have to mention my Favorite Microbrand RESCO. Great watches & all passion . RESCO allows you to customize from the factory Below is a custom design my friend ordered 

I'm not particular whether its a microbrand or a traditional brand. I either like a watch or I don't. If you want to take up owning microbrand watches, my advice is to get to know a local watchmaker who can service your watches.

I think the same when I hear "in house movement". The one exception I'd make would be Oris...10 year warranty is confidence-inspiring and enough to justify a premium imho.

Ah yes...microbrands. Love their designs, but the good ones sell like hotcakes. So sad.

Just watched the vid and Max as usual provided great content. Def these new for the micro purist, I would save for a preowned established brand or as Max mentioned a lower tier like a Longines - eg. Retro Legend Diver or even the Tissot Powermatic PRX. 

I would stay well below the $2k mark for a microbrand myself. 

I think its no secret the markup on watches (and all consumer goods, especially luxury items) is quite high and alot of what you pay for is brand name. To be fair, brand name usually also means reliability and longevity. But a microbrand cannot easily justify these and is solely relying on their "cool" factor or a consumer's burning desire to be different.

I would also say its even less justified in casese where they develop their designs based on direct public / enthusiast feedback. It seems unreasonable to make a watch for communal consumption and then price out a large segment of that community.

The most expensive microbrand I've contemplated is the Serica 5303 diver, and only because it has an aesthetic and design features that speak to me as an individual and Ive found no where else. Its not just fancy materials or a slightly modified design, its unique design and no fluff. Still well under $2k.

The Powermatic PRX has been tempting me but I'll have to reserve judgment on whether to pull the trigger until I've had a chance to handle one...a bit worried it might be too big for me to pull off.

Yea, the patisserie dial of the 40 automatic is really what holds the appeal for me.

Man, that's honestly really disappointing to hear as it was a model I've been eyeing. Was also interested in their California dial 4512, tho I'm not sure about the manual wind movement they're using...haven't seen it used much by other brands.

You just got to love microbrands that bring something new to the table. Many times established brands don’t dare to leave the trotten paths. 

I do like their other field watch offering!

I can't get the premium microbrand voices out of my head.  

Arnold & Son - 600 watches per year:

Philippe Dufour - 250 watches to date:

Romain Gauthier brand makes only about 50 watches a year:

Cool video and a really interesting discussion... to me I think that as long as the quality is comparable to or better than other watches in the same range, I would consider a micro around that price point.  

I guess the gray area is how you define "quality".  Several people mentioned specific features (micro adjusts, sapphire crystals) that add value.  Beyond the obvious (like what movement the watch is using), what else do you all look for to judge quality?  I personally look at the level of finishing/detailing, materials used, and the internal construction (but that last is usually hard to figure out).

That said, I mostly buy Swatches so my opinion is probably worth less than $.02 😂

Interesting.....you've actually pointed out another issue with microbrands: it's hard to try one on before you buy it! Unless you know a current owner of the model you want you're taking a chance it will look and feel like you imagined. 

EDIT: If I ever try Serica I would start with the 4512. But would be great if I saw one in the wild first.

I enjoy microbrands because they are the true innovators and push the boundaries without losing sight of offering value.  

That said, I believe there is a tipping point with microbrands between spec value and brand value.  At spec value, micros tend to dominate, especially when you consider that their market is really watch enthusiasts.  The brand value tipping point, however, comes at price.  For non-enthusiasts who are looking in the 2k range, they are likely more interested in an established brand they've "heard about."  To the non-enthusiast, the idea of spending nearly 1k on a Halios or Baltic is ridiculous because "who are these people and how do I know those watches are any good?" (as all watch nerds look askew and head-tilt with a soft grunt and sigh).    

But even for the enthusiast, I think independent brands are still a "Phase 2 or 3" consideration -- they seriously enter the conversation after a few Seikos and Hamiltons.  Maybe even after acquiring that first Oris or Omega.  They are the small-batch niche producers for people who love watches and want something they haven't found from The Corporations.  

Bottom line: they are the enthusiast's alternative.  What I'm wondering is: will there ever be a microbrand M&A by one of The Corporations?

I think micro brands are super important to the watch industry, both to challenge established brands and to keep innovation and vitality thriving, but I have to admit, when you’re pushing $2k and higher, I am a lot less likely to want to purchase one. Not saying I wouldn’t, but I would be more cautious before spending that kind of money. I think sub $1k is the ideal price point for a micro brand.

I have the Humbodlt and it is very well done watch, but in my case definitely required an after-market strap. Mine has the original ETA movement which I really appreciate and I absolutely love the Chicago rotor. It is a nice reminder of the ten years I lived a block away from Humboldt Park. 

"... a large cage-free organic farm, where watch nerds can roam, peck at grubs, cluck, and lay eggs..."

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On a more watch specific topic - 2k USD is currently around 10k Canadian (our peso is dropping through the floor 😢) so it feels way too high for a micro.  2K USD should only go toward established brands.   

No wait. I dumped mad cash at the Kurono Grand Mori I got a few months ago.... Ok, not following my own advice.  Dang. 

it is a german made microbrand with crazy good specs and even a little bit of heritage back to the 50s. check out their homepage or the articles from fratellowatches or monochrome watches. i also just discovered them recently and i am blown away by their value propositions.

Formex... They have just few more years to become a mainstream brand. They should keep their soul as much as possible, but they should also innovate, so alongside providing good and acceptable, safe-playing models they should also do some trick to wow even the big brands. I don't know like Nomos, Ressence, Laurent Ferrier, De Rijke & Co or like MeisterSinger, Mühle and many more. I love all of those. What they are designing and doing. It is ok to have some big brands in the collection, but the micro brands will be more valuable and will have more soul when they get really old imo. Because they are more unique and much brave than the big brands.

We're on the same page here.  I am also looking hard at the new Trident Pro 300 and now you got me lusting after the Circula (and it looks like it will release in time for Christmas).  

Microbrands in the CW and now Circula price range hit my sweet spot because there is so much (apparent) quality and variety at good price points. With off the shelf movements (which I actually prefer in terms of serviceability), it seems like $700-1200 with some wiggle on the high/ low price is fair for Swiss movements. 

Premium Microbrands are interesting but I'm more wary of getting a watch at this significantly higher price (and profit) point that (a) I likely won't be able to see in the metal, and (b) have less of a track record of producing and standing behind their watches as some of the heritage brands (pay more for established reputation of quality/reliability and brand). 

I really like the Oak and Oscar GMT (thanks for adding another watch to my list) but struggle to justify spending $1000 more than other Microbrand GMTs with the same movement (e.g. CW Sealander GMT).  It's tough because some micros are building their own following and reputation and incorporate design and styling that go beyond the components (e.g. suit is more than just the quality of wool its made with).  Hard to decide here but love the content and the discussion even though it will likely make me lighter in the pocketbook.    

Little late to the comment game here but hell yes both brands are killing it. Love Oak & Oscar so much and haven’t gotten to get hands on with Formex just yet but would love to!