Watches in the Wild (A More Civilized Experience, Volume 32)
Disclaimer: A watch for the working week.
This is the thirty second in a semi-regular digest of cool watches I happened to see this week.
Past posts in this series have been hashtagged to #watchesinthewild and you can click through for part 17, part 18, part 19, part 20, part 21, part 22, part 23, part 24, part 25, part 26, part 27, part 28, part 29, and part 30.
As always, my general policy is that I never ask for wrist shots (because approaching strangers and distant acquaintances to talk about watches is already weird enough) so all pictures below are sourced from the internet. People are mostly cool, I try not to annoy them.
I used to spend a lot more time in watch stores than I do now. Part of it is lifestyle change; I have kids and run a business. Everything is a little harder. But another part of it is experience, I've bought a ton of watches....and it's easier and easier to figure out if something isn't going to work out on my wrist just by looking at dimensions. So there's very little barrier to me buying stuff online with a pretty decent chance of things working out.
But then again, if you don't walk into watch stores, you don't get to try a Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF on. One of the most enjoyable outings I've had over the past couple of months was heading to Topper Jeweler in Burlingame with our resident Grand Seiko obsessive, @HotWatchChick69, and another innocent soul yet to be claimed by this mad hobby (his sister as it turns out).
I've held a lot of watches before. Royal Oaks and Nautili, Datographs and Classique Complications, Daytonas and Streamliners and Antarctiques and countless other watches I really have no business interacting with. I've even held its slightly larger brother, the Tonda PF GMT. So believe me when I say that I think the 40mm Tonda PF is the most beautiful watch I've ever personally held and one of the most comfortable I've had on wrist.
It is a watch that epitomizes quiet luxury to me, to the extent that that term means anything, where most of the details are noticeable only to the wearer.
I desire it. Greatly. Now to convince my wife......I sense a difficult conversation ahead.
Despite the watch escapades, it was a pretty quiet week from a watch spotting perspective so just a quick one for your consideration.
I hope you enjoy!
Grand Seiko Sbgm247
On the wrist of @HotWatchChick69 , I believe as a trade-in for his last remaining Omega, the beautiful Seamaster 300. The final nail in the coffin of @Omeganut has been driven in.
I have often been tempted by the Grand Seiko SBGM series of watches, from the dressy cream dialed SBGM221 to the hyper limited edition SBGM251 to our hero's sporty SBGM247. It always amazes me how much variety a single line of watches can have.
And while the high beat 9S86 and many Spring Drive GMTs get all the watch nerd glory, the 9S66 still holds an enduring place my heart. I have a soft spot for in house, mechanical GMT movements, with bonus points for beat rates of 4 hz and above (though 5 hz movements seem to be all the brags these days), reasonably slim profiles and long power reserves.
At any rate, the 247 is a nice little Explorer 2 analog, except I actually think it is 1) more visible than and 2) more attractive than the recent Explorer 2s. I love how stylishly toolish Grand Seiko made the SBGM247. The Khaki green sunburst dial, the 4pm crown, the excellent lumed hands. It's all fantastic and as strap monster-y as a green dial can be.
***Beginneth Aside*** Did I mention to you that Brian spent about 70% of his time at Topper in the Grand Seiko boutique? I mean, the dude is a GS collector, probably slides into Shinji Hattori's DMs, is surrounded by Czapek/Parmigiani/Moser/you name it and immediately walks to the Grand Seikos. That's commitment right there! ***Endeth Aside***
Grand Seiko SLGA013
On the wrist of @HotWatchChick69's sister. We traded watches for a bit (me wearing a JLC Master Geographic) and discussed many watches, from Cartier to Breitling to Omega to Parmigiani. It was delightful.
First, I am reminded of how impenetrable the watch world can be to newcomers, particularly female newcomers. Even our sales rep (who I am nearly positive was wearing a lovely SBGW289) lamented the lack of women at Topper events. I think there's a lot we, as a watch community, can do to make it more welcoming that wouldn't take a ton of work. For me, I'm pledging on cutting down on the jargon without explaining it first.
Second, for an ostensibly novice collector (though she might dispute the collector characterization. Lady, you already have two watches, you're well on your way to joining our degenerate hoarding), the SLGA013 isn't exactly dipping your toes in water. It's a bellyflop into the deep end. Ahyper limited edition, 5 day spring drive, tree ring dial, in the incredible 44GS case bellyflop.
Then again, it's just another Seiko right?
Tag Heuer Aquaracer Blue
Seen outside a bar in downtown Burlingame. No conversation but on pointing it out to Brian he dubbed me Rain Man. So I guess I have that going for me.
I feel as though watch spotting is more or less the most useless party trick in the world because every so often people think I have whiplash when I crane my head around to see what people are wearing.
I am pretty certain this was a quartz model with the crenellated steel bezel, sunburst blue face and orange tipped seconds. I know there's a Caliber 5 model with a similar layout but that has yellow highlights and I feel reasonably confident in my assessment, even at a glance.
I've talked about the Aquaracer a couple times before (though in an automatic black dial version), so I don't know that I have a ton to add about this specific watch.
But, I do want to say that Tag has come a super long way from the early Aquaracer (watches that could generously described as generic).. To their credit, Tag has steadily improved its cases, hands and dial quality. These are very good watches now in both quartz and automatic. I'm not convinced that was true two decades ago.
To that I tip my cap.
Rolex Yachtmaster 40 16628
On the wrist of a gentleman sitting behind us at dinner. Brian had me ID this one on the fly but he let me off easy. I couldn't miss this guy if I tried.
Since writing this column, I feel like I've seen a dozen or so Yachtmasters, mostly in the steel and platinum bezel configuration but some two tone and white gold oysterflexes as well.
This is the first time I've seen one with the full yellow gold and I'm fairly certain this is an older reference because of the onyx lacquer markers.
Do I need to explain how ridiculous this watch is? It's ostensibly a sports watch (a divers style even with printed tritium lume) but is as luxury silly as it gets. Definitely not stealth wealth as @Rolexahoma would put it.
At any rate, I have increasingly wondered who the Yachtmaster is for. The original references suggest that this is a purebred luxury watch. Precious metals, shiny finishes. The form is a diver analogue but the execution is shiny and gold/platinum.
But the newest iteration in titanium suggests that Rolex believes that customers are actually cross shopping this with other more toolish watches (and potentially as a Submariner replacement). I've theorized that that could be the case myself.
But I do wonder about the capacity of a single family of watches to have so many characters. I think the Yachtmaster might have the most varied finishes, form factors, and different materials in current production among any of the Rolex family. Like you have a titanium version, a two tone rose gold, a full rose gold, a steel and platinum, and a white gold across three different sizes. The Submariner Date has one size, and 4 material choices (steel, two tone, yellow gold, white gold).
I say this without any judgement but it's fascinating how Rolex decided to approach this. I wonder what it means for the future.
What cool watches did you see this week?
-------
Shameless Plug:
Did I mention that I have a charitable auction on for a Seiko Recraft SNKM97? Current bid at $300!
Auction ends Friday at 12PM Pacific!
By day, investor and father. By night, Seiko nut. #justgooutsideandtouchgrass
Me: “I don’t need a GS Green GMt!! I don’t need a Green GMT… I don’t need a GMt! … I don’t need… I don’t need …
🫨😵💫
Me: “I don’t need a GS Green GMt!! I don’t need a Green GMT… I don’t need a GMt! … I don’t need… I don’t need …
🫨😵💫
Nah, you don't need a green GMT.
But a green SNKM97?
https://www.watchcrunch.com/Edge168n/posts/buy-a-watch-save-the-world-the-edge168n-homage-seiko-recraft-snkm97-33050
Bid now!
This is what I see when walking along a sidewalk...
Meanwhile, this is @Edge168n ...
For everyone out there, you have to see it to believe it. I'm literally standing there, enjoying the sun, waiting for the bar to open for drinks after our pilgrimage to Toppers, random dude walks by, and I hear, "Definitely an Aquaracer. Yup. Aquaracer."
Saw this on the wrist of a dude sitting in the front row on my Southwest flight...
It was an older gentleman, dressed in business casual, flying from San Diego to San Jose. So, that meant he must be a VC or PE type. Nobody in tech even wears business casual anymore - it's all t-shirts and jeans. At his age, he couldn't be in consulting or banking anymore - those firms take you out behind the barn as soon as you reach your late 40's, and then tell your family that you went to the big playground in the sky. And since he was in the front row, that means that he must have paid the extra $100 or whatever it is to get Business Select A1-A15 boarding, and not have to get herded onto the flight like the rest of us hoi polloi. (By the way, I don't mind my C14 boarding. I never have any carry-on to put in the overhead, as everything fits into my backpack. And I just happily take the middle seat in the second row when I board, always severely pissing off the folks who thought they'd get an empty seat between them!)
On the wrist of the flight attendant, who was a very tall, very elegant woman. The watch looked very nice. My wife would be so jealous - unfortunately for her, I won't let her wear one.
This is what I see when walking along a sidewalk...
Meanwhile, this is @Edge168n ...
For everyone out there, you have to see it to believe it. I'm literally standing there, enjoying the sun, waiting for the bar to open for drinks after our pilgrimage to Toppers, random dude walks by, and I hear, "Definitely an Aquaracer. Yup. Aquaracer."
Saw this on the wrist of a dude sitting in the front row on my Southwest flight...
It was an older gentleman, dressed in business casual, flying from San Diego to San Jose. So, that meant he must be a VC or PE type. Nobody in tech even wears business casual anymore - it's all t-shirts and jeans. At his age, he couldn't be in consulting or banking anymore - those firms take you out behind the barn as soon as you reach your late 40's, and then tell your family that you went to the big playground in the sky. And since he was in the front row, that means that he must have paid the extra $100 or whatever it is to get Business Select A1-A15 boarding, and not have to get herded onto the flight like the rest of us hoi polloi. (By the way, I don't mind my C14 boarding. I never have any carry-on to put in the overhead, as everything fits into my backpack. And I just happily take the middle seat in the second row when I board, always severely pissing off the folks who thought they'd get an empty seat between them!)
On the wrist of the flight attendant, who was a very tall, very elegant woman. The watch looked very nice. My wife would be so jealous - unfortunately for her, I won't let her wear one.
I feel like Dustin Hoffman is much better looking than me but I'm honored by the comparison.
Nice spot! Always enjoy a datejust in the wild. There's always enough variation in the dial colors and layouts for me to be stay interested.
Have you tried getting your wife a Nomos? The Club Campuses and the rose gold Metro evoke the style, but are much much much much better.
I spotted a Yacht Master this week as well. On a customer at the wine shop of course. He seemed a little shy when I complimented his watch and I thought, I need to listen to Edge168n and stop talking to Rolex people! But then he told me about his watch obsessed friend who has 11K Instagram followers. I guessed it was Michael, who I met at the wine shop a few weeks ago when he spotted my Sinn 556 and showed me his Oak and Oskar GMT.
I spotted a Yacht Master this week as well. On a customer at the wine shop of course. He seemed a little shy when I complimented his watch and I thought, I need to listen to Edge168n and stop talking to Rolex people! But then he told me about his watch obsessed friend who has 11K Instagram followers. I guessed it was Michael, who I met at the wine shop a few weeks ago when he spotted my Sinn 556 and showed me his Oak and Oskar GMT.
A great spot and what sounds like a fantastic conversation. I'm glad you ignored me and pushed on through!
I just wish there was an easier way to identify the Rolex owners who actually care about watches.
I feel like Dustin Hoffman is much better looking than me but I'm honored by the comparison.
Nice spot! Always enjoy a datejust in the wild. There's always enough variation in the dial colors and layouts for me to be stay interested.
Have you tried getting your wife a Nomos? The Club Campuses and the rose gold Metro evoke the style, but are much much much much better.
I love that grey dial Club Campus. She would HATE it!
This is the only thing she'll wear... and it's not even a true DW. It's a DW homage!
Shocked that @Sinnguy had an actual story from an actual Rolex owner. I have no idea what that’s like.
I just picture you and @HotWatchChick69 skipping down the street on the way to dinner holding hands while you point out all of the watches on strangers. You laugh at all his jokes and he wipes the ice cream from the corner of your mouth and you both smile with glee walking into Toppers to look at all the new GS drops. I’m more jealous than making fun…
My only spot last week was likely a PAM00959
No conversation, but hard to miss. Panerai is such a difficult brand for me to process personally. On one had I hate the movement downgrades and outright deceit they allow around the brand at times. Not sure if that says more about Panerai leadership specifically or Richemont as a whole. Yet on the other hand they are DAMN good looking watches and fun to wear. They ask a price premium for one of the most recognizable watches in the world which I could never imagine paying list for… but I could see convincing my future self at some point to get a used Submersible. So f*cking cool though.
I have been on flights and in decent restaurants and have very little in the way of sightings to show for it. I have spotted many Apple watches and a woman wearing the largest smart watch that I have ever seen. I assume it was a Garmin. She was normal sized. This thing was all white on a white strap and had to be 47mm or larger. I would have been too self-conscious wearing that to ever leave the house.
At my gate today I saw a gentleman wearing a dark dialed Seiko dress watch. I have no idea what is was except that it definitely was not a GS and was probably quartz. The model name probably was expressed in letters and numbers. On the street yesterday I happened to glance down and saw an older model Max Bill on a much older gentleman. Perhaps that is not the ideal watch for a smallish octogenarian. They wear large.
You need to come to the East Coast and show me your techniques. I am sure that I missed much. Is it like bird watching? (Just remove the branches one by one in your mind until you don't see the tree, only the bird.)
You are not wrong asking why the Yachtmaster has SO MANY size, dial, and precious metal variations when it’s so clearly NOT even close to being Rolex’s best seller! It’s the model where I imagine whom ever is the product manager at Rolex just throws a dart at the wall to see what sticks and says, “eff it let’s try that combo!” 🤪😂 The matte black bezel versions are hawt tho’!
This is what I see when walking along a sidewalk...
Meanwhile, this is @Edge168n ...
For everyone out there, you have to see it to believe it. I'm literally standing there, enjoying the sun, waiting for the bar to open for drinks after our pilgrimage to Toppers, random dude walks by, and I hear, "Definitely an Aquaracer. Yup. Aquaracer."
Saw this on the wrist of a dude sitting in the front row on my Southwest flight...
It was an older gentleman, dressed in business casual, flying from San Diego to San Jose. So, that meant he must be a VC or PE type. Nobody in tech even wears business casual anymore - it's all t-shirts and jeans. At his age, he couldn't be in consulting or banking anymore - those firms take you out behind the barn as soon as you reach your late 40's, and then tell your family that you went to the big playground in the sky. And since he was in the front row, that means that he must have paid the extra $100 or whatever it is to get Business Select A1-A15 boarding, and not have to get herded onto the flight like the rest of us hoi polloi. (By the way, I don't mind my C14 boarding. I never have any carry-on to put in the overhead, as everything fits into my backpack. And I just happily take the middle seat in the second row when I board, always severely pissing off the folks who thought they'd get an empty seat between them!)
On the wrist of the flight attendant, who was a very tall, very elegant woman. The watch looked very nice. My wife would be so jealous - unfortunately for her, I won't let her wear one.
I fully assert @Edge168n is most likely an new Terminator model sent back in time from the future with advanced image sensors reprogrammed to infiltrate the WatchCrunch community in the effort to find John Connor in our current timeline. You can’t fool me!
Shocked that @Sinnguy had an actual story from an actual Rolex owner. I have no idea what that’s like.
I just picture you and @HotWatchChick69 skipping down the street on the way to dinner holding hands while you point out all of the watches on strangers. You laugh at all his jokes and he wipes the ice cream from the corner of your mouth and you both smile with glee walking into Toppers to look at all the new GS drops. I’m more jealous than making fun…
My only spot last week was likely a PAM00959
No conversation, but hard to miss. Panerai is such a difficult brand for me to process personally. On one had I hate the movement downgrades and outright deceit they allow around the brand at times. Not sure if that says more about Panerai leadership specifically or Richemont as a whole. Yet on the other hand they are DAMN good looking watches and fun to wear. They ask a price premium for one of the most recognizable watches in the world which I could never imagine paying list for… but I could see convincing my future self at some point to get a used Submersible. So f*cking cool though.
You'd skip too if you knew that Topper Jeweler was at the end of your journey! It's kind of amazing that the GS boutique is one of the more plebeian things they have there especially when comparing to Moser/Czapek/PF/Armin Strom. It's like Candyland for watch dorks. Should you make it this way, you, me and Brian should make our way there for a joyous afternoon of nerd dom.
I low key love the Submersible. It's a a great example of how a brand can keep its essential design character while also introducing new function. Like a Panerai with a rotating bezel, who woulda think?
I have been on flights and in decent restaurants and have very little in the way of sightings to show for it. I have spotted many Apple watches and a woman wearing the largest smart watch that I have ever seen. I assume it was a Garmin. She was normal sized. This thing was all white on a white strap and had to be 47mm or larger. I would have been too self-conscious wearing that to ever leave the house.
At my gate today I saw a gentleman wearing a dark dialed Seiko dress watch. I have no idea what is was except that it definitely was not a GS and was probably quartz. The model name probably was expressed in letters and numbers. On the street yesterday I happened to glance down and saw an older model Max Bill on a much older gentleman. Perhaps that is not the ideal watch for a smallish octogenarian. They wear large.
You need to come to the East Coast and show me your techniques. I am sure that I missed much. Is it like bird watching? (Just remove the branches one by one in your mind until you don't see the tree, only the bird.)
Alas, sometimes a dry spell is a dry spell. I get them from time to time. I'd enjoy seeing a little more Junghans in my day to day admittedly. You have me thinking of an old Junghans Meister Chronograph I used to lust after.
I don't really know what it is...I feel like I flip through so many watches on social media and in my general reading that I've just gotten to the point where I've started being able to pick out design cues and logos even from quick glances.
I think I've basically recreated for myself the old plane identification playing cards. When you see it enough, you eventually just manage to pick out the shapes.
I do travel to the Carolinas from time to time, I'll certainly look you up if I happen to be around.
You are not wrong asking why the Yachtmaster has SO MANY size, dial, and precious metal variations when it’s so clearly NOT even close to being Rolex’s best seller! It’s the model where I imagine whom ever is the product manager at Rolex just throws a dart at the wall to see what sticks and says, “eff it let’s try that combo!” 🤪😂 The matte black bezel versions are hawt tho’!
Maybe the fact that it's a less popular line is why they can experiment more. Fewer people to piss off!
I've always been partial to the rhodium dial with the platinum bezel. I know it's a basic choice but it's always seemed to be the most balanced of the Yachtmasters.
I fully assert @Edge168n is most likely an new Terminator model sent back in time from the future with advanced image sensors reprogrammed to infiltrate the WatchCrunch community in the effort to find John Connor in our current timeline. You can’t fool me!
Silly hoo-mons.
So cool. I’m heading to Topper on Saturday morning, pre-Windup Watch Fair. Looking forward to seeing and trying on all the cool stuff, from Breitling to Fears to GO to Moser to MeisterSinger and on and on…
Ah you bums! Partying like '99 and even a Toppers Trip!!! I'm so jelly! My WC besties having super happy fun with out me. 😢
I suppose if I'd been there my retirement plans would've been delayed by a decade, but I'd have picked up some baller GSs.
SLGA013 on a newb collector 🤯 Daaaym! Yup, bellyflop into the deep end is accurate. It's like me taking a newb cycling and at the end of the ride they mention winning the Giro D'Italia last year. But as you say - cool to have more girls balancing out our male dominated hobby / heroin addiction.
Chatting with Gold Yachtmaster was a missed opportunity for hilarity, boo! Next time!
I got nothing sighting wise and am out of hospital this week. So sightings consist of family watches only, snore. 😕😕
BTW - when I read your tagline my brain somehow only picks out certain words :
😀🤣
Genuinely been a quiet couple of weeks for me. My barber asked me to procure him a new strap for a gold Armani quartz watch. Nice gold faced simple thing. He has that blissful 'unawareness' of the watch hobby and absolutely loves it. 30m water resistance and a leather strap but worn all the time.
Other than that I went round to my Dads who was sporting a 2008 Breitling Superocean 'Steelfish' with a white pearl dial. Ive also seen a Moonswatch Earth on the wrist of a colleague.
Off on holiday next week so lets see.
So cool. I’m heading to Topper on Saturday morning, pre-Windup Watch Fair. Looking forward to seeing and trying on all the cool stuff, from Breitling to Fears to GO to Moser to MeisterSinger and on and on…
It's freaking Candyland. You're going to love it! Excited for you!
Ah you bums! Partying like '99 and even a Toppers Trip!!! I'm so jelly! My WC besties having super happy fun with out me. 😢
I suppose if I'd been there my retirement plans would've been delayed by a decade, but I'd have picked up some baller GSs.
SLGA013 on a newb collector 🤯 Daaaym! Yup, bellyflop into the deep end is accurate. It's like me taking a newb cycling and at the end of the ride they mention winning the Giro D'Italia last year. But as you say - cool to have more girls balancing out our male dominated hobby / heroin addiction.
Chatting with Gold Yachtmaster was a missed opportunity for hilarity, boo! Next time!
I got nothing sighting wise and am out of hospital this week. So sightings consist of family watches only, snore. 😕😕
If you ever find yourself in the Bay Area, make a journey! It's nearish to the airport, with some nice bars and restaurants nearby so it's a lovely end of trip thing.
Hell, I'd crash your visit to nerd out over watches if you invited me 😉
BTW - when I read your tagline my brain somehow only picks out certain words :
😀🤣
I mean, also that. 😂
I rode the Metro to downtown DC for a gala dinner this past week. On the train, I chatted with a young guy wearing an AP Royal Oak (Silver)
At the dinner, I sat next to a gentleman with a Cartier Santos 100
Both watches looked great in person. I was wearing my Apple Watch (to use Express Pay on the Metro), and nearly every other watch I saw that evening was an Apple Watch.
I rode the Metro to downtown DC for a gala dinner this past week. On the train, I chatted with a young guy wearing an AP Royal Oak (Silver)
At the dinner, I sat next to a gentleman with a Cartier Santos 100
Both watches looked great in person. I was wearing my Apple Watch (to use Express Pay on the Metro), and nearly every other watch I saw that evening was an Apple Watch.
Two brilliant spots! When I lived in DC, I never knew it to be much of a watch town (though given Tiny Jewel Box and so many other wonderful watch stores, maybe that was just a misconception.)
Love the black face
Love the black face
For the JLC? Thanks! It's one of the core pieces for me. Just a super flexible watch for my life.
That GMT though..
Wow! The slga013 look damn hot. 🔥