Watches in the Wild (London Calling, Volume 23)

Disclaimer: A steady companion for this one watch only traveler during the past week.

This is the twenty third in a semi-regular digest of cool watches I happened to see this week.

Past posts in this series have been hashtagged to #watchesinthewild and you can click through for  part 17part 18part 19part 20part 21, and part 22.

As always, my general policy is that I never ask for wrist shots (because approaching strangers and distant acquaintances to talk about watches is already weird enough) so all pictures below are sourced from the internet. People are mostly cool, I try not to annoy them.

I know I promised to take a break this week but I am tapping out this missive from the Centurion Lounge at Heathrow airport where I currently await my extremely delayed flight to take me home.  What better way to salve my bitter mood and rotten travel luck than with lovely conversation with the rest of you about cool as heck watches?

It must be said, London friends, your watch game is intense.  Hype watches, vintage, luxury, budget, and avant garde.  I saw it all over the past five days and I want to bring you along for the ride.  This is going to be a multi part series.

But first things first, the airport!  It started when I thought I spotted a blacked out Hamilton Khaki field but instead realized that it was smart watch with a field watch dial in the screen.  An inauspicious beginning but things shortly got better.

I hope you enjoy!

Zodiac Seawolf GMT Topper Limited Edition "Crystal Pepsi"

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Seen at the international terminal at SFO on the wrist of a gentleman at lunch with his family.  It did not feel correct to intrude.

I'm actually a little surprised I haven't seen one of these until just now.  This specific colorway was a special edition by Topper Jeweler (one of the loci of watch nerd-dom in the SF Bay area) and was celebrated by fun loving watch nerds the world over.  You like fun don't you?

I think my favorite take on this specific watch was by YoureTerrifc on YouTube.

https://youtu.be/HIUvWy5v0Lo 

More broadly on Zodiac and the Seawolf GMT, I am both encouraged and questioning of the direction that they have taken.  I think, by and large, their ownership by the Fossil Group has been positive.  The brand has stayed firmly in the mid range, focused on excellent quality vintage inspired reissues.  

They've even have done some work on building in house movements specifically through STP, which has a quite decent ETA 2824 clone in the hardy STP-11.

On the negative side, I don't know that I feel fully comfortable with their choice of outsourced movements , particularly their decision to rely on Soprod for their GMT movements.  While the C125 has by and large been a hardy and well constructed movement (though I have heard about occasional issues with a sloppy jump on the GMT hand), Soprod seems have embarked on a fairly deliberate campaign to limit parts availability for this specific movement.  I actually asked my watchmaker about this and he noted that he refuses to work on most Soprod movements these days, largely because of their unwillingness to sell genuine parts to his distributors.

Soprod has also had some weird quality issues in other movements, particularly the Newton that powers the Serica dive watch that spontaneously hacks and unhacks despite crown positioning.

None of this is a smoking gun of course, but it is a troubling set of behaviors.  If given the choice between this or a Sellita SW330, I might just choose the Sellita because of the ability to service without sending back to the OEM should a problem show up.

A shame too, because this watch is so darned good looking!  Across all their colorways, Zodiac designers clearly have a great sense for eye-catching and classic color combos.  The silver sunburst on the bright pepsi bezel are straight out of the 50s but feel bright and fresh today.

What a watch!

Breitling Navitimer 43 B01

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It is not often that I feel that the metropolitan area I live in is a second class city for watch shopping.  Few places, of course, match the big Asian Mega cities (Hong Kong, Tokyo, Singapore, Dubai, etc) and the luxury Meccas (New York and London).  

But I could generally never complain about my choices of watches in the San Francisco Bay.  It's a wealthy and densely populated area and there are a number of big ADs with excellent selections to compete for your time and money.  Outside the airport that is.

Because watch shopping in International Terminal A at San Francisco International is about as sad as I've seen in some time.  There's a single multibrand boutique with mostly Swatch Group brands but a smattering of others (Bell and Ross, Breitling, etc).  The selection is limited to about 5 watches a brand and when I went there was not a single offering from the Longines spirit collection or the Omega Speedmaster OR Seamaster collection.  It was a bad sign for the locations traffic that they immediately offered me a 15% discount on stock walking into the store.

Breitling was a notable exception and I tried on this lovely ice blue Breitling Navitimer B01 43mm.

Breitling did an absolutely fantastic job with this watch.  It's 43mm x 49mm and 13.5mm high but it hides its size well.  Part of this is due to the fact that I wore it on a strap so the longer lug to lug wasn't too problematic but also the outer chapter ring acts as a little bit of a bezel, which reduces the visual size of the dial.

I think, in many respects, given how busy this dial is, having something smaller in diameter might have actually been problematic from a visibility perspective.  As is, it's easy to ignore the outside clutter of the tachymeter because of the bigger size and spacing.

I do like how sporty this feels and it was a joy to have on wrist for the time that I did.

Bulova Futuro

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Seen on the wrist of a gentleman boarding the plane.  Included as much for the look as anything. 

London seems to be fashion watch central, which I suppose comes part and parcel with being a watch place in general.  This of course begs the question...what is a fashion watch?

Is it just a watch with a big fashion brand attached to it?  Hugo Boss and Michael Kors make watches and those are largely not great.

But then again, Hermes, Chopard, and Chanel do as well. They manufacture their own movements (or own significant stakes in movement manufacturers).  Their designs might not be to my taste but there's real horology in there.  

And then there are watches that are indifferently made by real watch companies that also can fall into a bucket.  Citizen and Seiko make many uninspired "mall" watches along with many more inspired creations across all price points.

Even microbrands have been accused of this.  Whatever you believe about Jack Mason's prior watch efforts (and while I have no experience, I have heard some less than kind comments), every indication points to the Strat-O-Timer being a game changingly good traveller's GMT.  Give @TimeToDesign some love for absolutely killing it.

Here's my morally relativist take.  The designation of the fashion watch is a bad shortcut for what we're really saying, which is "this watch is not really to my taste."  And you know what? That's cool.  There are many watches of great horological significance that are simply not my taste (don't get me started on Rolex Submariners).  But equally, I think we can all love flawed watches.  God knows I've loved my share over the years.

The Futuro looks like nothing else I've seen (maybe a Ressence?).  I don't know if that's a good thing or a bad thing.  But the gentleman wearing it clearly loved fiddling with all the dials.  

Maybe we need not complicate it any more than this.  If the watch brings joy, then it is a good watch and we can leave the hot take categorizations to watch influencers.

Omega MoonSwatch - Mars

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Seen on the wrist of a gentleman in business class.  No further statement required aside from the fact that this is the colorway I would have chosen had I decided to brave the line at the Swatch store.  Project Alaska baby!

Hublot classic fusion Chronograph

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Two seen.  One at a bar while getting a cocktail, the other on the wrist of a gentleman having a ***very*** serious business conversation.  The first was the classic Titanium version, the second a blue PVD coated version (ala @Deeperblue's first Bites watch ID challenge).  No conversations.

Does London have a thing for Hublots?  I feel like I've seen a dozen of them in the past week and it's wigging me out a little because of how rare they are in my patch of the woods.

At any rate, I would actually buy and wear this watch.  I love chronographs, even bicompax ones, and love the lightness of titanium.  And in the 42mm version, this is a surprisingly balanced piece that doesn't feel top heavy.  

I think my biggest complaint is the slim but slightly generic movement (a Dubois Depraz module on an ETA 2892 base) which feels a bit of a reach given the $10kish price tag (says the man who bought a Cartier Roadster with the same price tag TEN YEARS AGO with the same movement so perhaps I am merely reliving past mistakes).

 I have talked about Hublot a couple times in past watches in the wild and I still think about how they are somewhat unfairly maligned. I often wonder about an alternate history line where JC Biver didn't go down the path of the Big Bang and instead kept pouring energy into better movements and more refinements of the first great Hublot watch, the MDM Geneves which became the classic fusion. Would we consider it one of the great predecessor independents?

Tag Heuer Aquaracer (4th generation)

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Seen on the wrist of a young father of a toddler at my gate.  To you sir, I tip my cap because I'd sooner queue up at for a Bamford G-Shock release than I'd take my roughly 18 month old on a 11 hour flight to London.

I often think about this most recent generation of Aquaracer as one where Tag finally found it's design footing.  This reference is particularly good looking.  

Steel bezel divers are not super uncommon but there is something anachronistic about a non ceramic bezel.  I'm the sort of guy who thinks of scratches as stories so I can see how this bezel will get pleasingly beaten up over time.  I love the hands and the use of yellow as the accent color on the black ridged dial.  I don't even mind the cyclops!

I think to a certain type of person, this is a nearly perfect implementation of vintage elements onto a fundamentally modern watch design.

Longines Small Seconds (circa 1950s)

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Seen on the wrist of a gentleman on the flight.  I offered a compliment but I think it was not heard over the roar of the plane.  I let it be.

I actually saw a very similar watch to this one later in the day in the basement level of Liberty of London, where they have a small vintage watch selection.  Perhaps the gentleman got it there.

@Aurelian or @Porthole could easily tell you more about this piece and it's provenance but it is a stunner with vintage proportions, that classical 50s round case small second face shared by old Seamasters, Wittnauers and Gruen precisions.

It was beautiful and immaculate condition and I am filled with desire.  I was tempted by the one in Liberty but given the look my wife was giving me as I was handling it, not 3000 GBP tempted.

Another time perhaps.

What cool watches did you see this week?

Reply
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What an insightful and great post! In regards to your point in "fashion watches", you are spot on. This hobby has to start somewhere and if "fashion watches" is a gateway to a deeper appreciation for watches, then I feel that I've done my job. Keep an eye out this year...we have some really exciting product drops!

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What?? You came to the UK and didn't tell me??

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Anyway, I'm too excited about the Breitling I saw this week to be cross.

One of these....

worn by a chap in clinic. Looked great, and the first Breitling I have ever seen in the wild and possibly the first watch ID I am 100% confident on make and model with (I'm getting better!) The blue is extremely lovely in person.

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Amazed at all the watches you spot in the wild. It must be particularly tough spotting at a time of year when people are wearing long sleeves plus outerwear. I imagine it's a bit easier in the summer, although those who own really expensive watches are still likely to be wearing business attire, i.e., long sleeves/suits. I guess being a world traveller and visiting choice spotting territory (e.g., London, NYC, Hong Kong) is a big factor. In any case, I do enjoy the vicarious pleasure I get from your reports. Looking forward to your future sightings.

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I waited to comment on this because I hadn't seen anything, until today. And then a witness on one of my cases was wearing this:

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I hadn't seen a Sea Dweller before. I have no idea what the reference was, it looked to be older based on the dial lettering and size. I found out that we used to use the same watchmaker years ago.

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I think London does have a thing for Hublot….sorry about that…😉

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Today was an AMAZING day! Not only did I spot a watch, but it was the first time I've ever spotted a Grand Seiko in the wild!!!

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Seen on the wrist of an exec at my workplace, during a meeting! Saw the bracelet and immediately recognized it as an Evolution 9 model in titanium. For a moment, I thought, "Is he wearing the SLGA015 Kuroshio like me? Would it be weird if we were both wearing the same watch? I know we're talking about comp planning and taking money away from people due to economic conditions, so is it in poor taste to then change the conversation to our taste in luxury watches?"

Stared long and hard at his wrist until he flipped it over and revealed the Mist Flake dial.

Another exec had a gold watch on alligator strap on. It was clearly a vintage watch with a quartz movement. Thought for a moment that it might be a Patek Calatrava, but the indices were stick as opposed to roman numerals, so no idea.

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Chunghauphoto

I think London does have a thing for Hublot….sorry about that…😉

The only time I've ever seen a Hublot in the wild was when I was in Barcelona. But, the watch was on the wrist of an Englishman!

It may have something to do with this...

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Mr.Dee.Bater

The only time I've ever seen a Hublot in the wild was when I was in Barcelona. But, the watch was on the wrist of an Englishman!

It may have something to do with this...

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What can I say? We are a classy bunch….

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TimeToDesign

What an insightful and great post! In regards to your point in "fashion watches", you are spot on. This hobby has to start somewhere and if "fashion watches" is a gateway to a deeper appreciation for watches, then I feel that I've done my job. Keep an eye out this year...we have some really exciting product drops!

Just a crazy opinionated person here but I hate it when folks try and be all gate keeper-y about a fundamentally joyful hobby. Life's short, don't yuck in my yum.

Super excited to hear about new products! Are you making the budget automatic chronograph of my dreams?!?!!?

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DeeperBlue

What?? You came to the UK and didn't tell me??

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Anyway, I'm too excited about the Breitling I saw this week to be cross.

One of these....

worn by a chap in clinic. Looked great, and the first Breitling I have ever seen in the wild and possibly the first watch ID I am 100% confident on make and model with (I'm getting better!) The blue is extremely lovely in person.

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I knnnnooooowwwww, I'm the worst! In my defense, my very pregnant wife also came and there is a limitation to the watch shenanigans she's willing to accept at this moment.

Fantastic spot! That Breitling Superocean Heritage is going to feature very heavily in future WitWs!

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itsthedialman

Amazed at all the watches you spot in the wild. It must be particularly tough spotting at a time of year when people are wearing long sleeves plus outerwear. I imagine it's a bit easier in the summer, although those who own really expensive watches are still likely to be wearing business attire, i.e., long sleeves/suits. I guess being a world traveller and visiting choice spotting territory (e.g., London, NYC, Hong Kong) is a big factor. In any case, I do enjoy the vicarious pleasure I get from your reports. Looking forward to your future sightings.

Glad you enjoy! It's always fun taking people along on my absurd little journeys.

To mitigate the weather thing, I find myself inside museums or coffee shops or restaurants or what have you.

There was a particular watch spotting density in London that I rarely see but I generally think it just has to do with population. Spend more time with people and you end up seeing more watches.

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This time it was London, I have been there more than once... and the only watch I ever saw in London was my own 🥲

This is fascinating to me. I feel like London has a higher density per Capita of watches than where I live by a very meaningful amount and across the entire spectrum.

Honestly, the only watch I didn't see that many of (relative to where I live) were G-Shocks despite that super prominent boutique on Carnaby Street.

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Aurelian

I waited to comment on this because I hadn't seen anything, until today. And then a witness on one of my cases was wearing this:

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I hadn't seen a Sea Dweller before. I have no idea what the reference was, it looked to be older based on the dial lettering and size. I found out that we used to use the same watchmaker years ago.

What a great spot! I'm definitely no seadweller expert and my identification usually ends with what color the dial text is!

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Mr.Dee.Bater

Today was an AMAZING day! Not only did I spot a watch, but it was the first time I've ever spotted a Grand Seiko in the wild!!!

Image

Seen on the wrist of an exec at my workplace, during a meeting! Saw the bracelet and immediately recognized it as an Evolution 9 model in titanium. For a moment, I thought, "Is he wearing the SLGA015 Kuroshio like me? Would it be weird if we were both wearing the same watch? I know we're talking about comp planning and taking money away from people due to economic conditions, so is it in poor taste to then change the conversation to our taste in luxury watches?"

Stared long and hard at his wrist until he flipped it over and revealed the Mist Flake dial.

Another exec had a gold watch on alligator strap on. It was clearly a vintage watch with a quartz movement. Thought for a moment that it might be a Patek Calatrava, but the indices were stick as opposed to roman numerals, so no idea.

A mistflake in the metal! The evo 9 cases are very recognizable but I've never seen one just walking around.

I am ashamed to say just how much of my watch spotting is actually done while having very serious conversations. I've been guilty of extending a conversation or two simply to figure out what watch the guy was wearing!

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Dude! Great stories again this week. Cheers. Nice treatise on fashion watches as well. Happily I’ve not had one but will never put you down if it’s your gateway to the hobby.

Re Zodiac - yes, their STP1-11 is a fantastic movement, better than all my non spring drives and almost always under 1 second per day.

Mine is COSC , so try to get one of the Cosc models if you are looking at a Zodiac. Weirdly, Zodiac doesn’t promote well which models get COSC regulated, you gotta research to figure it out. 🤪

No watches sighted this week. The usual 😉

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Fieldwalker

Dude! Great stories again this week. Cheers. Nice treatise on fashion watches as well. Happily I’ve not had one but will never put you down if it’s your gateway to the hobby.

Re Zodiac - yes, their STP1-11 is a fantastic movement, better than all my non spring drives and almost always under 1 second per day.

Mine is COSC , so try to get one of the Cosc models if you are looking at a Zodiac. Weirdly, Zodiac doesn’t promote well which models get COSC regulated, you gotta research to figure it out. 🤪

No watches sighted this week. The usual 😉

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It's such a handsome color combination. I envy your ability to pull off teal/aquamarine watches. For whatever reason they just don't really work with my color palette. Perhaps too much green.