Watches in the Wild (Winter Has Come, Volume 21)
Disclaimer: Some days call for a big watch. Roadster Chrono on Alligator.
This is the twenty first in a semi-regular digest of cool watches I happened to see this week.
Past posts in this series have been hashtagged to #watchesinthewild and you can click through for part 1, part 2, part 3, part 4 , part 5, part 6, part 7, part 8, part 9, part 10, part 11, part 12, part 13, part 14, part 15, part 16, part 17, part 18, part 19 and part 20.
As always, my general policy is that I never ask for wrist shots (because approaching strangers and distant acquaintances to talk about watches is already weird enough) so all pictures below are sourced from the internet. People are mostly cool, I try not to annoy them.
Here in Northern California, we have replaced endless rain with sunny and cold days. Winter is here.
Let it not go overlooked, of course, that this a major improvement. I like sun, even cold sun, more than rain. But despite the exceptional fashion example of WW2 pilots, folks here seem to not want to wear their watches strapped to the outside of their jackets. A pity, largely because this has had predictable results on my watch spotting.
So a shorter one today....but some more unusual spots as well: divers both classic and unusual, a nearly perfect affordable dress watch, and a classic stalked among baked goods.
Enjoy!
Seiko Prospex Tuna SBBN051 (35th Anniversary Quartz edition)
Seen on the wrist of an investment banker during a pitch meeting. To you sir, I congratulate you for your incredibly differentiated watch choices because your wrist is the last place I'd ever expect to see a Quartz Tuna in all it's 49m x 49mm x 17mm goodness.
I honestly wished I'd raised my hand to talk to him about it because there's a serious watch nerd right there no doubt. Bankers are generally very cliche in their wrist wear. Analysts wear Submariners. Associates wear GMT Masters. VPs wear Daytonas or if they're near promotion Royal Oaks. Only do MDs and above have the right to differentiated wrist wear. There are NO exceptions (except for, you know, the exceptions).
Now admittedly, this is an awfully fancy quartz watch. The 7C46 is one of those super hardened, super reliable, super durable Seiko quartzes, designed for crazy saturation diving. It's not quite as pretty as the Grand Seiko 9F quartzes to look at, but I think it might be just as technically impressive to given how rugged it is.
The Tuna, to me, is the ultimate Marmite watch. It's an odd shape that wears well because of the lug less design. But ultimately, you either crave that tool-tastic, blasted grey titanium finish or you don't.
And me? What are you nuts? It looks too much like a hockey puck on the wrist. Which doesn't mean that I'm right or that you shouldn't own this watch. I just don't care for that toolish aesthetic at all.
But regardless, it's cool as heck and I know my own kind (for my Linnaeans out there, homo sapiens horologensis) when I see one. And, our banker friend is well prepared to pitch Sealab on their forthcoming IPO on the Challenger Seamount.
Tissot Visodate Day-Date in Fume Blue (powermatic 80 version)
Seen at the playground on a vintage two stitch leather strap. No conversation as he was deeply in conversation with another person.
This is the 2021 version with the gorgeous fume blue dial, applied Tissot logo, and slightly larger proportions (42mm instead of 40mm). One of the things I love about Tissot is their tremendous commitment to beautiful and excellent watch design while also pushing to keep things on the affordable end (for watches). For a brand of Tissot's heritage, this reluctance to move upmarket and keep prices relatively in line is unusual (I am looking at you Longines/Oris/Seiko).
And the Visodate is a fantastic 50s throwback, with dauphin hands, a simple and classic high polish case shape, and a lovely day date display. It's well proportioned and slim (12mm height). The fume blue dial punches against watches 3x the price. The Visodate has even a bit of interesting history of its own being one of the first mass produced watches with an instantaneous date jumping complication at midnight. I think this watch is fabulous in almost all respects
Almost.
Tissot, I don't mind you making a 42mm version. Bigger guys need watches too. But for the love of the Holy Trinity, just make a 38mm version of this watch. The 42mm with the long straight lugs makes this such an odd sizing for a modern dress watch. Some watch reviewers have misguidedly attempted to defend this size expansion and talk about how this amps up the sportiness of the package. This is an indefensibly silly take.
There is no sportiness here! It's a 30M WR dress watch that might as well be sealed with paper mache! Hell even Orient got the memo and look how great the new smaller Bambinos are!
This is on the cusp of being a watch enthusiast super hit like the PRX. So so close.
Rolex Submariner Two tone in black (ceramic)
Seen on the wrist of a black belt martial artist walking down the street in full karate gi. Listed as much for the absurdity of the circumstances of the spotting as for the notability of the watch itself.
I've talked about the two tone submariner many times before but I love this watch enoughtl aht I don't mind repeating myself. I think Rolex is at its best when it doesn't take itself too seriously and embraces the its dark side as a luxury watch brand.
One of the little incongruities of the watch hobby is the collective outrage at the difficulty of obtaining a Rolex sports watch at the states retail price. Interestingly, other hype watch.makers (like AP or Patek or VC) have equally long wait lists but no where near the same level of righteous fury. I have often wondered why.
I suspect some of this is brand recognition of course. Rolex is the most recognized watch brand (probably!) in the world so the number of annoyed people is higher.
But I actually think there's a much more fundamental issue.
Compared to other watch makers who build their brands more as pure luxury items or objects of beauty, Rolex's entire brand is built on the idea this is the perfect watch for people who do things. People who play sports or climb mountains or fly airplanes.
We can get behind the idea of not being royalty or hyper wealthy (because for most of us that's just not how the cards play out) but we can all get behind the idea of doing something! And it must be incredibly annoying to decide that you are going to do something and then be told by Rolex that, in fact, you can't.
The problem is, Rolex doesn't serve the purpose of a sports watch anymore. The watches cost too much and they're too annoying to obtain even if you could afford an accidental loss while "doing something.". The inevitable result is that most Rolexes will increasingly live the lives of safe queens or desk divers or dress watches.
It is for this reason that find that I almost universally like the two tone versions of Rolex sport watch models more than the stainless steel versions. They feel more honest about who they are (luxury items vs tool watches).
And for those of you who long for that old Rolex feeling (quality, reliability, sportiness, toolishness, AND availability), you have a ready replacement. Just buy a Tudor instead.
Lorier Neptune
Seen at the butcher country at my local high end grocer. I did a double take when I saw this watch the first time. There's something about the black dial, gilt markers of this that triggers "Black Bay 58" in my brain but I couldn't compute the handset.
So my brain went to "modded Black Bay 58" and being the moron that I am, I asked about what motivated him to mod his bb58. I don't blame him for looking at me like I had suddenly grown an extra head. We got over it though and had a lovely discussion about the merits of acrylic crystals and microbrands in general.
And the Neptune leans super hard into those skin diver roots. If I were to choose one aspect of this watch that I absolutely adored, it would have to be that anchor and dauphine handset (superior to the Tudor Snowflake if you ask me). I appreciate how specific the vision of the founders is and how classically beautiful the watches are.
I even like the Lorier logo! The triple chevrons are a bit of military and a bit of heraldry and feel like the 1950s brand Lorier is trying to be.
It seems a shame that I've never had it on wrist. Perhaps that's a project for the next Windup Watch Fair. I will leave it to other crunchers to offer their views on how it wears (@Jewbaka , @Fiatjeepdriver , @oakenlander , and @marioap among others ) but I am intrigued.
Cartier Santos de Cartier ADLC Black on Black
Seen in a department store where I was buying my brother in law a non watch related gift (I know right? I'm the worst). I stalked this watch among racks of discounted premium panettone leftover from the Christmas and New Year holiday.
As befitting a man of taste and refinement, the gentleman in question bought no fewer than three boxes, because panettone is great every day of the year. I did mention "Nice watch" to him (while I picked up a box of my own) but didn't get more than a thanks and a quick exit.
I have often admired @Rolexahoma 's blacked out Santos. From the Cartier boutique, I know this watch fits on my wrist beautifully. I do wear a lot of dark colors and a blacked out watch dressy GADA watch fits completely with my aesthetic. I even favor dark faced dials. The Santos is one of the great watches and the blacked out version is probably my favorite.
So why don't I own it already? My wife thinks it's unconscionably ugly and I am unable to endure her constant teasing about it for fear that it will shine a brighter light on the rest of my collecting hobby. Like the gremlin that I am, I must protect the rest of the preciouses even at the cost of not owning an amazing watch.
This particular desire will go unsated.
What cool watches did you see this week?
By day, investor and father. By night, Seiko nut. #justgooutsideandtouchgrass
The Lorier wears perfect and I believe is a great true homage to classic divers. It does fill the void of a BB58 and I almost like it even more. I mean from only a pure aesthetic point of view. This said I sold it because the new version has a disappointing amount of lume applied to the hour hand, so much so it makes it weird in the night with the glowing markers and almost impossible to know where the hour and minute hands are at time. For me that's a big no. I have the Squale Corso Italiano and is a great alternative.
Here a picture of the Lorier. The bracelet is nothing short of amazing though.
And more:
The lorier wears really nicely, I'd probably still have mine if there wasn't a great trade offer for it. I'm considering getting the newest version but that depends on a few purchases I have planned for this year.
The Lorier wears perfect and I believe is a great true homage to classic divers. It does fill the void of a BB58 and I almost like it even more. I mean from only a pure aesthetic point of view. This said I sold it because the new version has a disappointing amount of lume applied to the hour hand, so much so it makes it weird in the night with the glowing markers and almost impossible to know where the hour and minute hands are at time. For me that's a big no. I have the Squale Corso Italiano and is a great alternative.
Here a picture of the Lorier. The bracelet is nothing short of amazing though.
And more:
Beautiful photos and it's a wonderful looking watch. I can see the complaints about the lume.
I think you're right, the Squale Corso Italiano has a very similar skin divery DNA, though it would be hard to beat the handset that Lorier chose.
The lorier wears really nicely, I'd probably still have mine if there wasn't a great trade offer for it. I'm considering getting the newest version but that depends on a few purchases I have planned for this year.
What was the trade for? 😉
Beautiful photos and it's a wonderful looking watch. I can see the complaints about the lume.
I think you're right, the Squale Corso Italiano has a very similar skin divery DNA, though it would be hard to beat the handset that Lorier chose.
Yes, the handset of the Squale is kind of very conventional, but considering all, more to my personal liking regards overall night and day legibility.
Your wife and I may have some words about the black Santos! 😜 The ADLC Santos was my most worn watch of 2022. It's so versatile slipping from sporty to dressy with a simple strap change. I think your wife may see it in a different light if she saw it in the metal on the black alligator strap. So understatedly elegant.
100% with you on the two-tone Rolexes!!! Those are the only ones I really, really like. And precisely because of the weird juxtaposition - I want people to laugh at the watch on my wrist, due to the cognitive dissonance!
"Real Rolexes are tool watches!"
"No, dude... that is all cosplay. I like my bedazzled Swiss watch."
Met up for dinner with a buddy, who was sporting the Datejust Thunderbird. Clearly he makes a lot more than I do, as I was wearing my King Seiko - I made him pay for the meal.
Buddy was wearing the Apple Watch when we met up for coffee. I asked him about it, and he said he hated it. He said it sucks. Sucks as a phone, 'cause you can't ever hear the person on the other end of the line. Sucks as a fitness tracker, 'cause it doesn't track things accurately. Sucks as a music player, 'cause the speaker ain't any good. Sucks, sucks, sucks. He said, "I should buy a regular watch. What's that on your wrist?"
I said, "Oh, this is a Seiko." I don't know why. He's retired at age 48. He's got money, and bought an air-cooled 911 back before prices took off. He sold it like 10+ years ago, and got $60k for it. Most recently, he's seen similar examples selling for $150k. So, maybe I should have said "Grand Seiko" but I didn't! Still feels too weird.
Your wife and I may have some words about the black Santos! 😜 The ADLC Santos was my most worn watch of 2022. It's so versatile slipping from sporty to dressy with a simple strap change. I think your wife may see it in a different light if she saw it in the metal on the black alligator strap. So understatedly elegant.
You don't need to convince me! I had the Cartier boutique in SF order it in for me specially and I even had a a trinity ring picked out for her to make it sort of a memorable thing.
And, to her credit, she did say that she wouldn't fight me buying it, but she did say she didn't just dislike it, she detested it (primarily the exposed screws on the bezel and bracelet).
Now I obviously disagree with that but I know when to cut my losses, and we walked out with the trinity ring but not the watch.
It's okay. I've started leaving pictures of a Lange 1815 up down around the house and she's mentioned that one favorably.
Redirect, always redirect.
No exciting watches for me this week, sadly, so all the more fun reading about yours! 🍻
Wish you'd have said hello to two-tone Rolex karate dude 😆
100% with you on the two-tone Rolexes!!! Those are the only ones I really, really like. And precisely because of the weird juxtaposition - I want people to laugh at the watch on my wrist, due to the cognitive dissonance!
"Real Rolexes are tool watches!"
"No, dude... that is all cosplay. I like my bedazzled Swiss watch."
Met up for dinner with a buddy, who was sporting the Datejust Thunderbird. Clearly he makes a lot more than I do, as I was wearing my King Seiko - I made him pay for the meal.
Buddy was wearing the Apple Watch when we met up for coffee. I asked him about it, and he said he hated it. He said it sucks. Sucks as a phone, 'cause you can't ever hear the person on the other end of the line. Sucks as a fitness tracker, 'cause it doesn't track things accurately. Sucks as a music player, 'cause the speaker ain't any good. Sucks, sucks, sucks. He said, "I should buy a regular watch. What's that on your wrist?"
I said, "Oh, this is a Seiko." I don't know why. He's retired at age 48. He's got money, and bought an air-cooled 911 back before prices took off. He sold it like 10+ years ago, and got $60k for it. Most recently, he's seen similar examples selling for $150k. So, maybe I should have said "Grand Seiko" but I didn't! Still feels too weird.
I remember talking to a therapist buddy of mine and he says that in the majority of people he sees, the difference between happiness and unhappiness mostly comes down to framing.
I feel like my Rolex beliefs are super out of consensus in the watch community at large (if market prices and availability of pieces are to be believed). But if we could collectively get over this hangup that Rolex isn't a luxury watch maker (versus a tool watch maker), I feel like we would be in such a happier place as a community because I think a lot of folks would change their decisionmaking as a result.
No exciting watches for me this week, sadly, so all the more fun reading about yours! 🍻
Wish you'd have said hello to two-tone Rolex karate dude 😆
I did! But he didn't hear me. Not quite as exciting as the Santos I stalked through the walls of panettone!
I did! But he didn't hear me. Not quite as exciting as the Santos I stalked through the walls of panettone!
If the snakeskin-cowboy-hat-wearing-moonphase-cellini-guy from last week is @celinesimons spirit animal, then Cartier-wearing-'I'm buying all the panettone'-guy is mine. 😆
Best line I've read all week. 😂
A friend of mine showed me some of the quirkier fun stuff from his collection last week.
I love that the day of the week on the Seiko is written in Arabic.
Two for him; one for his wife. The silicon strap he chose for the turquoise version was perfect (I am not a fan of the original straps because of the overt branding)
I'm not sure if this is technically "watch in the wild" but hey, still cool pieces :)
A friend of mine showed me some of the quirkier fun stuff from his collection last week.
I love that the day of the week on the Seiko is written in Arabic.
Two for him; one for his wife. The silicon strap he chose for the turquoise version was perfect (I am not a fan of the original straps because of the overt branding)
I'm not sure if this is technically "watch in the wild" but hey, still cool pieces :)
Very cool! I'm seeing more moonswatches around these days but the Eastern Arabic numeral Seiko is killer. Do you know where it was made?
@valleykilmers because that weird commenting bug is happening where I can't read your comments.
The Patek 5204r is ridiculous. I've never seen one in person. I don't even know how I'd go about seeing one in person. I don't think I aspire to own one, but it's absolutely gorgeous.
I think you win the watchspotting prize this week!
Ahh, bummer. I’ll DM the post. Suffice it to say it was nuts in person. But this gentleman has at least 5-10 high end haute pieces like this I’ve seen on other occasions and I look forward to his new piece at every meeting.
Ahh, bummer. I’ll DM the post. Suffice it to say it was nuts in person. But this gentleman has at least 5-10 high end haute pieces like this I’ve seen on other occasions and I look forward to his new piece at every meeting.
I gotta get more friends like that!
I gotta get more friends like that!
I WISH we were friends.
I WISH we were friends.
Nice spots!
though i did feel a little judged due to me being an analyst and not wearing a submariner….
also touching on the topic of wearing a Rolex in these times, i like to share the absurdity of Singaporeans; I’ve seen crazy watches this week, on public transport. Trains and busses.
all is well though as they were more Seiko (Sumos, SPB Divers, presages) and G shocks too….. and An increase in spotting Apple watch Ultras
Nice spots!
though i did feel a little judged due to me being an analyst and not wearing a submariner….
also touching on the topic of wearing a Rolex in these times, i like to share the absurdity of Singaporeans; I’ve seen crazy watches this week, on public transport. Trains and busses.
all is well though as they were more Seiko (Sumos, SPB Divers, presages) and G shocks too….. and An increase in spotting Apple watch Ultras
It just means you're a free man. The hilarious thing is that it's so much better than it used to be.
Back in my MBB private equity diligence days, I used to deal with a lot more bankers than I do now. I remember walking into a secure room to hand over a data stick to a room of incredibly tired Lehman Bros bankers (like maybe a dozen of them) and to a man they all wore black steel submariners. It was like the freaking Stepford wives.
And here I am, 23 and wearing an Seiko 5 and looking like just a complete scrub (and loving it because as bad as my hours were, they weren't as bad as theirs!).
Singapore and Hong Kong are nuts. If I lived there, this column would be a full time job in itself. The last time I was in HK, an old lady the age of my grandmother cut me off in an MTR turnstile while wearing a 37mm Royal Oak.
It just means you're a free man. The hilarious thing is that it's so much better than it used to be.
Back in my MBB private equity diligence days, I used to deal with a lot more bankers than I do now. I remember walking into a secure room to hand over a data stick to a room of incredibly tired Lehman Bros bankers (like maybe a dozen of them) and to a man they all wore black steel submariners. It was like the freaking Stepford wives.
And here I am, 23 and wearing an Seiko 5 and looking like just a complete scrub (and loving it because as bad as my hours were, they weren't as bad as theirs!).
Singapore and Hong Kong are nuts. If I lived there, this column would be a full time job in itself. The last time I was in HK, an old lady the age of my grandmother cut me off in an MTR turnstile while wearing a 37mm Royal Oak.
… literally walking past a grandfather with a VC overseas white dial, waiting for a train
times are abit different now in the Finance industry. I work in FinTech so no dress code = seeing more non-Rolexes In the office. Though I wish people still put on pants to the office…. Win some, lose some
This happens to me a lot actually! I recently went to a black tie wedding and thought "I'm going to get so much watch spotting done here!"
I counted two actual watches (mine and my wife's). I'd almost think it was a black tie being too formal for watches thing except I counted 45 individual apple watches. Oh man.....sometimes it just slaps you in the face how odd your hobby is.
That first spot - the Seiko - yes, I totally love the terminator banker. I'd buy what he's pushing since he might open up on everyone with an M60 machine gun. But what is an 'MD' who can wear anything? My only meaning for that acronym is 'medical doctor'
And Rolex Karate guy! Too awesome!
I luxuriate in Rolex jabs, so took way to much pleasure with this combo of person and watch. I think people should embrace the absence of toolishness about Rolex and get the gold, white gold or platinum encrusted with gemstones.
Thank you for another great read!
Fun and funny as always
That first spot - the Seiko - yes, I totally love the terminator banker. I'd buy what he's pushing since he might open up on everyone with an M60 machine gun. But what is an 'MD' who can wear anything? My only meaning for that acronym is 'medical doctor'
And Rolex Karate guy! Too awesome!
I luxuriate in Rolex jabs, so took way to much pleasure with this combo of person and watch. I think people should embrace the absence of toolishness about Rolex and get the gold, white gold or platinum encrusted with gemstones.
Thank you for another great read!
Fun and funny as always
Managing Director, in an investment bank (in the US anyway). Think of it like an upper middle level manager with pretentions.
Rolex is a lovely watch, I own two and am rather happy with them. But I'd like to think that I'm fundamentally honest about what they are....and so
What kind of a guy wears a Cartier, and only acknowledges a compliment with "Thanks." One would think he would gladly take the opportunity to engage in a discussion about his watch, and then expand the discussion into other watches, watch straps, watch collecting... Not my type of guy. I will gladly talk to anyone about watches and dogs. Other subjects too, but perhaps not quite as enthusiastically. 😀
What kind of a guy wears a Cartier, and only acknowledges a compliment with "Thanks." One would think he would gladly take the opportunity to engage in a discussion about his watch, and then expand the discussion into other watches, watch straps, watch collecting... Not my type of guy. I will gladly talk to anyone about watches and dogs. Other subjects too, but perhaps not quite as enthusiastically. 😀
I'm with you but it happens a lot. I think folks feel put on the spot when some random dude identifies and asks them about their watch. I don't even really know how I'd respond, given that no one ever identifies my watch 😂
No way around it I suppose.
I'm with you but it happens a lot. I think folks feel put on the spot when some random dude identifies and asks them about their watch. I don't even really know how I'd respond, given that no one ever identifies my watch 😂
No way around it I suppose.
Are you kidding? If somebody sees, and is interested in my watch I'm crushing them under the weight of a thousand fun details and backstory about my watch. 😂
I will literally chase them as they beat a a retreat hoping to explain a few more details they may not have noted.
The Lorier wears perfect and I believe is a great true homage to classic divers. It does fill the void of a BB58 and I almost like it even more. I mean from only a pure aesthetic point of view. This said I sold it because the new version has a disappointing amount of lume applied to the hour hand, so much so it makes it weird in the night with the glowing markers and almost impossible to know where the hour and minute hands are at time. For me that's a big no. I have the Squale Corso Italiano and is a great alternative.
Here a picture of the Lorier. The bracelet is nothing short of amazing though.
And more:
Having owned ... 4(?) Loriers, 210% agree. Falcon v2, Hyperion v1, Safari LE, and a Gemini v1 very briefly. The only one left is my Hyperion v1, but I wore the Falcon v2 every single day for nearly a year on exclusively the bracelet.
It is REALLY hard to go wrong with Lorier unless you truly (be honest with yourselves people) have a reason to believe you might seriously gouge the acrylic more than once every few years.
Are you kidding? If somebody sees, and is interested in my watch I'm crushing them under the weight of a thousand fun details and backstory about my watch. 😂
I will literally chase them as they beat a a retreat hoping to explain a few more details they may not have noted.
But you're just as crazy as me. The normies, they're not like us.
I would LOVE to hear about the differences in bezel actions between the Prospex LX and the regular prospex!