Watches in the Wild (Home By The Sea, Volume 24)

Disclaimer: Direnzo DRZ04 above for the engagement.

This is the twenty fourth in a semi-regular digest of cool watches I happened to see this week.

Past posts in this series have been hashtagged to #watchesinthewild and you can click through for  part 17part 18part 19part 20part 21, part 22 and part 23.

As always, my general policy is that I never ask for wrist shots (because approaching strangers and distant acquaintances to talk about watches is already weird enough) so all pictures below are sourced from the internet. People are mostly cool, I try not to annoy them.

This is part two of Watches in the Wild: London Edition.

London is the place outside the United States that feels most likely home to me. My wife lived in London for two years post university and there was a point where I was back in London every six weeks to see her in her tiny flat in Kensington.  

But due to Covid and kids, we have not been back in several years.  On a side note, if you have not travelled to see family and friends in far away places since pre-Covid, I suggest you do if you can.  It is immensely joyful being with other people you care about and quietly tragic how much of their lives you miss when you're gone.  There's nothing that hammers that tragedy home more than meeting a 3 year old child (who calls you Uncle) that did not exist the last time you were around.  

The Internet sucks, go hug your friends in person.

We stayed in Soho, in between Tottenham Court and Oxford Circus and, not entirely coincidentally, near the nexus of European high end watch shopping, Bond Street.  If I were to recount all the watches I saw in windows, we would be here all day.  We are here for watches on wrists!

I honestly didn't spend a ton of time in watch shops this time around.  The first couple of days were spent with dear friends, museums, and in a few particularly British shops that have no equivalent in the States.  Many watches were seen and recorded for your reading pleasure.

I hope you enjoy! 

Rolex Submariner

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Omega Seamaster bond

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Omega Seamaster Ceramic

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Breitling superocean heritage chronograph two tone (42mm) and blue

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All seen in a 45 minute period over a kati roll and papadums at Brigadiers in the City (London's traditional financial district), fine British Indian cuisine for all your lunchtime needs.

I sense something of a uniform among City investment bankers and attorneys with steel Submariners, Seamasters, and SuperOcean Heritages dominating wrists.  I am not British so it's difficult drawing any conclusions from it but one does wonder if there was a group purchase somewhere along the line.

I've talked about the steel submariner before (dull) and the ceramic and bond Seamasters (skeleton hands....sigh) before but not much on the SuperOcean Heritage.

I saw two chronograph models at Brigadiers, a blue stainless steel and a two tone black version.  Both were stunning in person.

Breitling gets some flak from enthusiasts for their somewhat aggressive pricing asks versus what you actually get in the watch in movements and capabilities (which has predictable impacts on aftermarket value retention).

To this I say the following.  If you walk into a Breitling AD and don't walk out with at least a 15% discount, you literally didn't ask.  Please reference last week's watches in the wild for further details.  

But the complaint is warranted in many respects, it makes you as a customer feel that you're being treated differently than other customers.  If I were Breitling, I might lower my prices by 15% across the board and then radically pull back on the discounting to normalize things for everyone and allow watch enthusiasts to move past the inevitable conversations about value and focus instead on the objective qualities of the watches at hand.

To be clear, those qualities (particularly those of the SuperOcean Chrono) are significant. Despite the vintage diver stylings, it is big and bulky (44mm and 16mm high) due to the modified 7750 powering the internals.

But it wears well for a big watch because of the stock mesh bracelet (which is excellent btw) and is a stunner in person.  I don't know what it is precisely but the arrow hands make me feel a lot of feelings.  I think I generally prefer 3-6-9 Chronos to 6-9-12s but there's no denying that its a beautiful piece.  I think I might be drawn to the blue and stainless steel more but the two tone black is extraordinarily tastefully done.  I genuinely love the look of both.

I think the only real drawback is the movement.  I have nothing against 7750 derivatives but I think Breitling missed an opportunity here to consolidate entirely around the Caliber B01 automatic chronograph movement (of which they offer a version with a different dial layout).  The B01 is thinner, has a higher power reserve, and can command a higher price point.  It also doesn't have a day date (which being a chronograph, feels like two complications too far).

Of course, I believe Breitling is run by very smart people so I have to believe that they wanted to hit a certain price point in order to appeal to a wider audience of buyers, even though as enthusiasts I imagine we would see the in house Caliber with superior specs (even at the $1.5k-2k or higher price point) as a significant win win.

The plight of the enthusiast.

Rolex OP Bubbleback

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Seen on the wrist of a friend who works in Westminster.  This is the approximate look of the reference but I didn't bother asking about it.

Others can tell you about the history and horology of the bubbleback in some greater detail (calling @Rolexahoma ), but let me tell you the story of Posh Charlie.

Charlie is from landed gentry way back in the day with some distant relation being a baronet or something like that.  I suspect, though never confirmed, that his family several generations back was quite wealthy but, as with all aristocracy in England, faced a slow and consistent decline due to the inheritance tax and the splintering of generations.

But my wife spent some time in school with him and I've gotten to know him pretty well over the years.  He's a gentleman in the very truest sense of the word.  Since university and graduate school, he has devoted his life to the civil service, with a special interest in breaking poverty cycles among council housing youth.  

And so, it is not often you see a Rolex bubbleback on the wrist and even less often that it is on the wrist of a surely significantly underpaid civil servant.  As it turns out, the watch was his grandfather's ("when he was in Rhodesia") and apparently saw conflict and adventure.  Charlie didn't really seem keen on elaborating and I didn't press him.  Sometimes tales are best left untold.

But it was a treasured and irreplaceable possession, passed down to a beloved grandson as his heritage and responsibility. I have no doubt Charlie will pass it onto his child when the time is right.

If I'm honest, I desperately hope I have something like this with my girls.  That they will see my watches not only for their value (because I frankly wouldn't be optimistic that they will keep their value) but instead as useful objects that can both tell the time and a family story.

Rolex Yachtmaster 42 on Oysterflex

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Seen on the wrist of a friend who works in the City as a hedge fund manager, a man with a lovely watch collection and a lovelier disposition.  I played with his 4 month old daughter for an idyllic hour.

It's nice not being friends with cliches but I don't understand the use case of this watch.  It's a high polish, oversized (42mm but wears like a 44) diver with a superbly overengineered rubber/titanium bracelet that is too casual for most formal or office situations (outside of tech I suppose) with a white gold case that is too fragile to be used for anything remotely sporty. I am a great proponent of wearing your watches but gold sports watches are just silly.

Maybe you wear this on your yacht?  But if you do, perhaps you have nicer watches than yet another Submariner look alike? I say all this as a lover of the 40mm Yachtmaster with the rhodium dial.  Something about this one just tipped over into absurdity for me.

What Rolex giveth, Rolex taketh away.

Omega Chronostop

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Seen on the wrist of a gentleman on Regent Street near the Waterstone books.  No conversation 

I think one of the coolest things about this watch is that I believe it was intended to be and advertised as a watch you wore underneath your wrist, to better utilize the simplified Chronograph functions.  Otherwise it is a low complication stopwatch, suitable really only for measuring sub 60 second intervals (which given that it was an Olympic sprints timer, makers sense I suppose)

I've frankly never worn one of these watches so I can't comment much on them but it's such a quirky design for a Chrono (cushion case no subdials, monopusher), that I had to include it.

Must de Cartier Vendome 

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Seen on the wrist of a sales associate at Harrods.  I complimented it and she tried to sell me a purse.  I may have bought a purse.  Don't judge me.

The Vendome is not a watch I have ever had any particular interest in but a surprising amount of knowledge about.  It is straight out of the high 80s, as emblematic of the period as shoulder padded suits and fashionable greed.  I remember one of my mother's friends owning one of these and passing it onto her daughter some years later.

It also has a bit of odd historical significance, being the first watch that Cartier ever made out of a non precious metal (predating the Santos Carree by one year). Nothing as gauche as stainless steel of course (who are we, Rolex?) but gilt sterling silver.

I am, as always, surprised by how classic this watch looks even after so 40+ years.

Cartier roadster

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Seen on the wrist of a salesman at the Mulberry flagship store.

I mean, what else could I say about @Aurelian's favorite watch, save for perhaps if I know him, he probably likes the three hander more than the Chronograph (truly the watch of scholars and gentlemen).  

Actually the 3 hand Cartier Roadster is a surprisingly reasonably sized watch.  The men's sizing is 38mm x 43mm which I think wears surface area wise more like a traditional 41mm watch, perfectly acceptable sizing for a watch with sportier aspirations.  And at just 11mm in height, a slim and attractive sports watch at that.

I do wonder, occasionally, if Cartier will end up reissuing this guy with inhouse movements for the 3 handers and the new Piguet based Chronograph movements.  I feel that would just be a killer release overall.

Seiko Presage Cocktail Time "Star Bar Hojicha"

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One for @Fieldwalker, truly a man among boys when it comes to Seikophiles.

Seen while wandering around the Tate Modern.  I wanted to ask about this one, but couldn't quite get close due to the crowds.  I don't think I could miss this watch with the gilt Alpinist layout numerals, stainless steel case, and beautifully textured dial.

I admit, I had to rely on Google for the name of the watch itself, because the entire Cocktail Time line is ridiculous in its breadth of colors, textures and dial layouts.  But, I think it is a tremendous tribute to Seiko's design chops that I could immediately identify it as not only a Seiko but also a member of the line itself, with that oversized dress watch feel and the blingiest and most intricate dial textures this side of Grand Seiko.

There's a temptation among established watch makers (and smaller ones too) to take things too seriously.  The watch made it to the moon or climbed Everest or flew in WW2 or was inspired by the accumulation of mist on ones windowsill during the specific period of 2pm on October 3rd to 7:26am Oct 6th while overlooking Mount Katsuragi.  

But I view watch collecting as a fundamentally unserious thing and often the contrarian in me revolts at the marketing doublespeak that dominates how watches are sold.  The watch might have gone to the moon... but you didn't.  Just be chill.

And it is entirely in this spirit that I love that Seiko made a line of watches entirely devoted to a love of increasingly obscure cocktails.  And not only that, made each and every one of them absolute stunners for a pretty decent price.

I love the Alpinist style dial layout and the cross hatching scratch dial pattern of the Hojicha.  It does feel like it would be very at home on wrist during a night out for nice drinks, with a lot of class and just a hint of bling.

Top marks for Seiko here.

What cool watches did you see this week?

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Great read as always. I’ll be cruising Bond Street end of March.

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Thanks for the great write up! Love the effort and put into it. It was interest Ng through and through. Charlie has quite the watch! How was the rubber on the seamaster? I also agree about wanting Breitling to use the Kenissi movement

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I've talked about the steel submariner before (dull) and the ceramic and bond Seamasters (skeleton hands....sigh) before but not much on the SuperOcean Heritage.

100%

too casual for most formal or office situations (outside of tech I suppose) with a white gold case that is too fragile to be used for anything remotely sporty. I am a great proponent of wearing your watches but gold sports watches are just silly.....Something about this one just tipped over into absurdity for me.

100%

One for @Fieldwalker, truly a man among boys when it comes to Seikophiles.

😂😂😂 I'm happy to own that 🙂

Back to work now - hilarious and fun read as always my friend. more thoughts later when I've got more time 👍

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Great read as ever,thankyou👍👍

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YourIntruder

Great read as always. I’ll be cruising Bond Street end of March.

Bond Street is a ton of fun, though I admit I spent more time window shopping than trying on. Too much time spent zipping around London to linger for a couple hours in a watch boutique!

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unseenhero

Thanks for the great write up! Love the effort and put into it. It was interest Ng through and through. Charlie has quite the watch! How was the rubber on the seamaster? I also agree about wanting Breitling to use the Kenissi movement

I believe this is the Zealande rubber on the Bond Seamaster and from my recollection is generally excellent (one of the few with actually well fitted ends.

I'm going to be a little pedantic (neck beardy) and say that I'm pretty sure the B01 is actually fully Breitling in house, not Kenissi.

That said, my sentiment is completely the same. They should use it more, a lot more. It would drive down unit cost of production, increase reliability, and enable them to increase their average selling prices (in house, fully automatic, completely modern chronograph has a nice cachet to it). But this is probably why I don't own a watch company.

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Fieldwalker

I've talked about the steel submariner before (dull) and the ceramic and bond Seamasters (skeleton hands....sigh) before but not much on the SuperOcean Heritage.

100%

too casual for most formal or office situations (outside of tech I suppose) with a white gold case that is too fragile to be used for anything remotely sporty. I am a great proponent of wearing your watches but gold sports watches are just silly.....Something about this one just tipped over into absurdity for me.

100%

One for @Fieldwalker, truly a man among boys when it comes to Seikophiles.

😂😂😂 I'm happy to own that 🙂

Back to work now - hilarious and fun read as always my friend. more thoughts later when I've got more time 👍

You are the most fervent defender of Seiko I know and I LOVE IT.

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You spotted a Chronostop Geneve - far more common than the rarer, OG, Seamaster Chronostop.

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now THAT’S a Chronostop…

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Porthole

You spotted a Chronostop Geneve - far more common than the rarer, OG, Seamaster Chronostop.

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now THAT’S a Chronostop…

I will admit to this being a big hole in my watch knowledge. I know enough to recognize the general form but not the specifics or the variations. That said, I once saw a variant with a roulette dial that was killer.

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Edge168n

I will admit to this being a big hole in my watch knowledge. I know enough to recognize the general form but not the specifics or the variations. That said, I once saw a variant with a roulette dial that was killer.

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I’ve seen that one as well in a shop window… can’t remember exactly but it was London, Central/East. I spied mine in Watches of Switzerland in 2010, and I bought the thing more or less on sight. It is, as they say, the b*ll*cks.

It has that racing vibe that you get for late 60s/early 70s chronos, if McQueen wore one it would have attained legendary status.

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Porthole

I’ve seen that one as well in a shop window… can’t remember exactly but it was London, Central/East. I spied mine in Watches of Switzerland in 2010, and I bought the thing more or less on sight. It is, as they say, the b*ll*cks.

It has that racing vibe that you get for late 60s/early 70s chronos, if McQueen wore one it would have attained legendary status.

It has that racing vibe that you get for late 60s/early 70s chronos, if McQueen wore one it would have attained legendary status.

Without a doubt.

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"...was inspired by the accumulation of mist on ones windowsill during the specific period of 2pm on October 3rd to 7:26am Oct 6th while overlooking Mount Katsuragi."

Another great report. Always a pleasure to read, as you write so well. I particularly liked the comment quoted above. 😀 

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Edge168n

It has that racing vibe that you get for late 60s/early 70s chronos, if McQueen wore one it would have attained legendary status.

Without a doubt.

Because I wear one, it is now infamous I suppose. No accounting for taste eh?

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Man, I wish I had your watch spotting skills!

Co-worker sports this watch...

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When I saw it briefly last week, I thought that maybe it was a vintage Patek or some such. No, turns out it's a Seiko! I should have known! The gentleman in question is a true gentleman. He's an Indian software engineering executive, who is still a true software engineer at heart. Typically, in Big Tech, you end up as an executive not because of your technical prowess, but instead your political acumen. Somehow, due to this gentleman's technical chops, he ended up where he's at, and he's the nicest, most thoughtful guy in the world.

We were sitting together in a conference room for a video meeting, and afterward the meeting concluded, I said, "What is that beautiful vintage watch?" He was so proud to show it off, and he said, "It's vintage? Oh, I suppose it must be. I bought it 35 years ago." And then he proceeded to tell me about how one time it stopped running, and some watch shop wanted to charge him $150 to get it working again, but instead he took it back to India (as he visits family every year) and they were able to overhaul it for $10.

This gentleman reminds me of some of my kindly old Chinese uncles. Engineers who grew up in difficult circumstances, now wealthy due to hard-work and conscientiousness, but who derive significantly more pleasure from saving $140 on a watch service than they ever could from owning a Patek!

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itsthedialman

"...was inspired by the accumulation of mist on ones windowsill during the specific period of 2pm on October 3rd to 7:26am Oct 6th while overlooking Mount Katsuragi."

Another great report. Always a pleasure to read, as you write so well. I particularly liked the comment quoted above. 😀 

I say this with the greatest affection for Grand Seiko but their descriptions have gotten more and more ludicrously florid over the years.

I'd even love for me to be joking here but there is actually a Japanese micro season for Oct. 3rd to 7th (Mizu hajimete karuru, farmers drain fields). 100% there will be a GS special edition based on this.

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Mr.Dee.Bater

Man, I wish I had your watch spotting skills!

Co-worker sports this watch...

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When I saw it briefly last week, I thought that maybe it was a vintage Patek or some such. No, turns out it's a Seiko! I should have known! The gentleman in question is a true gentleman. He's an Indian software engineering executive, who is still a true software engineer at heart. Typically, in Big Tech, you end up as an executive not because of your technical prowess, but instead your political acumen. Somehow, due to this gentleman's technical chops, he ended up where he's at, and he's the nicest, most thoughtful guy in the world.

We were sitting together in a conference room for a video meeting, and afterward the meeting concluded, I said, "What is that beautiful vintage watch?" He was so proud to show it off, and he said, "It's vintage? Oh, I suppose it must be. I bought it 35 years ago." And then he proceeded to tell me about how one time it stopped running, and some watch shop wanted to charge him $150 to get it working again, but instead he took it back to India (as he visits family every year) and they were able to overhaul it for $10.

This gentleman reminds me of some of my kindly old Chinese uncles. Engineers who grew up in difficult circumstances, now wealthy due to hard-work and conscientiousness, but who derive significantly more pleasure from saving $140 on a watch service than they ever could from owning a Patek!

That's a fantastic story! It's ultimately always about the story rather than the watch, these beautiful common threads of experience that only crazy people like us could fully understand.

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A parent of another child had an early all-black cera-chrome GMT Master II on his wrist at a birthday party I attended over the weekend.

My Dad was wearing his newly-acquired Fredrique Constant Perpetual Calendar when I saw him, and my grandfather had his Omega DeVille Co-ax chronometer on as well.

It seems that most people around me don't have a huge thing for watches.

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JBird7986

A parent of another child had an early all-black cera-chrome GMT Master II on his wrist at a birthday party I attended over the weekend.

My Dad was wearing his newly-acquired Fredrique Constant Perpetual Calendar when I saw him, and my grandfather had his Omega DeVille Co-ax chronometer on as well.

It seems that most people around me don't have a huge thing for watches.

Man, if that's your "most people people around me aren't into watches" sign me up!

I am not really into the all black GMT master II, but the FC perpetual calendar (highlife I assume?) is super cool and not common at all. Nor is the Deville!

Some unicorn spots!

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Edge168n

Man, if that's your "most people people around me aren't into watches" sign me up!

I am not really into the all black GMT master II, but the FC perpetual calendar (highlife I assume?) is super cool and not common at all. Nor is the Deville!

Some unicorn spots!

This one:

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My favourite episode so far I think! 👏

There's nothing that hammers that tragedy home more than meeting a 3 year old child (who calls you Uncle) that did not exist the last time you were around.  

The Internet sucks, go hug your friends in person.

So poignant and so true

The watch might have gone to the moon... but you didn't. Just be chill.

🤣

And also... @HotWatchChick69

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...this sir, is exactly my level of watch spotting ability.

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@Deeperblue well WC is doing that weird buggy thing where I can't see your comments except on your user profile. The infrastructure of this place seems to be groaning a bit.

As for your comment...

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Fantastic spots! The JLCs of course are great, but I've never actually seen an X-wind in the metal. Just a crazy pilot's chrono.

London is always a good time for me. Museums, theatre, great food and good friends. It makes me sad that it's taken this long to go back. Perhaps the next time, I''ll bring my kids and we can go for a long promised search for Paddington Bear.

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I love reading and geeking out on the history of timepieces and history in general. And so, yes, it is ironic that I don't own any vintage timepieces of my own. Perhaps one day that will change should I come upon a Bubbleback or another storied model. Posh Charlie's Bubbleback seems to have lived quite a life and what a story it would tell if it could. I don't know what memories are stamped into that watch but it commands my respect every time I hear a tale of a watch passed down.

As for your hedge fund manager friend's white gold Yachtmaster 42, I can tell you exactly what the use-case for that combination of white gold case, matte black ceramic bezel, black dial, and black Oysterflex bracelet is: one is: stealth wealth. I have to admit that I find that particular model sexy AF and I'm here for it!

p.s. that Cartier is just cool

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Rolexahoma

I love reading and geeking out on the history of timepieces and history in general. And so, yes, it is ironic that I don't own any vintage timepieces of my own. Perhaps one day that will change should I come upon a Bubbleback or another storied model. Posh Charlie's Bubbleback seems to have lived quite a life and what a story it would tell if it could. I don't know what memories are stamped into that watch but it commands my respect every time I hear a tale of a watch passed down.

As for your hedge fund manager friend's white gold Yachtmaster 42, I can tell you exactly what the use-case for that combination of white gold case, matte black ceramic bezel, black dial, and black Oysterflex bracelet is: one is: stealth wealth. I have to admit that I find that particular model sexy AF and I'm here for it!

p.s. that Cartier is just cool

Given the vintage of the bubbleback and the offhand remark to Rhodesia, I suspect Posh Charlie's grandfather might have been around in the Rhodesian Bush War/Zimbabwean War of Independence. In what capacity, I have no idea but I imagine it was extremely interesting. I'd love to own a watch like this but provenance is super hard to establish.

As for your hedge fund manager friend's white gold Yachtmaster 42, I can tell you exactly what the use-case for that combination of white gold case, matte black ceramic bezel, black dial, and black Oysterflex bracelet is: one is: stealth wealth. I have to admit that I find that particular model sexy AF and I'm here for it!

Hah! I mean, yes of course, it's a stealth wealth watch. I guess I just feel this is a watch to have more than a watch to wear because I actually feel like it performs the implied use case poorly. Like if I'm going to spend that much on a watch, maybe I'd buy a white gold day date instead because at least I could wear it into the office and meetings. Or spend it on a VC overseas or a PF Tonda Rattrapante GMT because at least the steel construction can take a bit of a knocking around in everyday life. Heck, I'd think I'd like this more if it were on a white gold bracelet! Just the combo of gold diver style and rubber strap just bothers me more than it ought to.

Why this hobby is interesting I suppose. Different strokes for different folks 😉

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I try to hold back on commenting until I spot something. This is from a hearing this morning:

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It was worn by a detective that I was cross-examining. After the hearing we talked watches for about five minutes. I will say that it is prettier in person. It is just on the edge of what I would wear size wise. He thinks that vintage watches are too small.

Since this series of posts took off I find myself in more watch conversations than I have had previously. So, in addition to connecting to internet folks, it allows me to connect in person too.

Last thing, this post is buried in my feed. It took some searching to get here.

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Aurelian

I try to hold back on commenting until I spot something. This is from a hearing this morning:

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It was worn by a detective that I was cross-examining. After the hearing we talked watches for about five minutes. I will say that it is prettier in person. It is just on the edge of what I would wear size wise. He thinks that vintage watches are too small.

Since this series of posts took off I find myself in more watch conversations than I have had previously. So, in addition to connecting to internet folks, it allows me to connect in person too.

Last thing, this post is buried in my feed. It took some searching to get here.

Like the 38.5mm Aqua Terra, the BB58 is one of those watches that I vaguely wish I had encountered earlier in my watch collecting journey. I might have just stopped at some point. Not that I'm particularly regretful, but there is a past part of me that thinks "Man, I wish I had fewer opinions about what makes me happy about watches."

At any rate, a wonderful spot and surprisingly uncommon in Muggleland (vs watch circles).

Since this series of posts took off I find myself in more watch conversations than I have had previously. So, in addition to connecting to internet folks, it allows me to connect in person too.

My evil plan progresses. The "Just Go Outside and Touch Grass"® movement grows.

In all seriousness, I feel like I'm about as anti-social media as it gets. I write these long involved posts that are particularly unsuited to going viral or getting engagement. I fully expect to be buried in the feed and I am entirely too opinionated for my own good. I still don't have an Instagram account, even a lurker one.

And I am well pleased with all this.

Frankly, all I really want is for people to not feel so weird about talking to other people in person about something they might share hobby wise. If we could all do that about 10% more, I think it would be a surprisingly more wonderful world.