Watches in the Wild (Keep Calm and Hype On, Volume 29)

Disclaimer: Inspired to switch this to leather by @HotWatchChick69

This is the twenty ninth in a semi-regular digest of cool watches I happened to see this week.

Past posts in this series have been hashtagged to #watchesinthewild and you can click through for  part 17part 18part 19part 20part 21part 22part 23part 24part 25part 26, part 27 and part 28.

As always, my general policy is that I never ask for wrist shots (because approaching strangers and distant acquaintances to talk about watches is already weird enough) so all pictures below are sourced from the internet. People are mostly cool, I try not to annoy them.

***Beginneth Rant*** My news feed tells me thst there is a watch event of some sort going on somewhere in central Europe and I can't for the life of me remember its name. Horology and Humblebrags? Toffs and Timepieces?  I'm sure it will come to me sooner or later.

I kid because I love, but over the years as Baselworld and SIHH have evolved into Watches and Wonders, I've grown increasingly burned out with both the releases (which look real samey after a while) and the coverage (which tries very hard to tell me just how exciting and different this years releases are compared to last years).  It strains credulity.

Rolex replaced a dress watch line that no one bought with another dress watch line that I suspect no one will buy and put an open case back on a chronograph that no one will able to buy.  

Tudor added on the fly adjustments to some watches and took the rivets off the bracelets of some but not all of their divers.  

Grand Seiko remixed a couple of dials on slightly different cases, most of which are limited and not going to be seen in stores or on wrists for 12 months or more.

Tag released a couple of chronographs that I'm almost positive they've released before and decided to add some colors to dials (I actually kinda like the new Carrera colors, so I'm not sure what I'm complaining about here).

And to be clear, I am not at all against this sort of important quality of life improvement by watch companies.  But I do wonder....Did we need a hundred million dollar trade show and thousands of hours of breathless coverage in order to get it?  @Porthole and @Aurelian I'd like to turn in my candidacy for inclusion on the WC mount Rushmore of grumps.

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It goes without saying, my passion is seeing watches on people's wrists and W&W is just a bit too focused on the hype pieces that are destined to live life as safe queens and "investment" pieces.  That's not why any of us find watches fun.  I will stick to my sojourns out here in the wild.

***Endeth Rant***

This was an interesting week actually.  A couple of re spots, some modern divers, but more notably a ton of very cool quartzes that I haven't honestly seen too often.

I hope you enjoy!

Cartier Roadster Chronograph XL (black)

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Hublot Big bang black magic on leather

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On the wrists of two brothers at a children's museum.  I thought I heard Hebrew but couldn't find an opening to talk to them and was with my children in any case and wasn't really there to talk watches.

I've talked about versions of both these watches before and my opinions on them haven't changed much.  I tend to like them more than most but they are large fun watches with a lot of personality.  You like fun don't you?

Well unless you're a certain vintage obsessed Statler and Waldorf.  At which point, feel free to lampoon everyone and everything ;)

Omega Seamaster 2255

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Seen in a coffee shop while at a meeting.  No chance I was going to abandon a business meetup for a watch conversation but there's a part of me that wishes I had.

I tend to think of it as the looser, cooler version of the endlessly classic but somewhat sterner 2254.  The black bezel on black dial has been replaced with a steel bezel on electric blue dial that really highlights the subtle wave in the background.

I have mentioned it time and again but I love this era of Omega divers.  They're effortlessly neo vintage cool, with what I view as the most classic of the Seamaster aesthetics: sword hands, scalloped bezel, and subtle dial wave.  They are quietly revolutionary movement wise as well, sporting the first generation of the increasingly legendary coaxial escapement in a heavily modified ETA 2894.

If you can't tell, I've had this watch on the mind for a while.  I've largely concluded that it's a watch for me to look at, rather than own for myself but I greatly appreciate whenever I get to see one.

Seiko Safarnie 

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Seen on a watch friend's wrist with an Ali-Express FKM strap instead of the Seiko standard.  He mentioned that he didn't like the metal keepers very much because they kept  on slipping.  To my great chagrin, I mistook this for a Tuna at first. Somehow I missed the two other crowns and completely misread the dial layout (that's what years of the watch spotting hobby gets you I suppose) so five points subtracted from Slytherin and let's get on with it.

I actually think this is a quietly attractive watch.  No, not the case.  Terminator Banker would love it (h/t to @Fieldwalker for that joke) but I actually rather like this dial.  It's a departure from the Old Arnie (With the SKX face) or the tuna (with the circular prospex applied hour markers) but instead the super angular, patinated hour markers painted on.  I think it suits the handset really well, acting almost as an extension of the slightly too short hour and minute hands.

It still wears a lot like a 47mm hockey puck, but a nice light hockey puck with the colors of a field watch and the capabilities of a diver.  The bezel has that soft vintage Seiko clickiness and a general charm about it that I can't explain.

I'm not a quartz guy but I rather enjoy this watch.

Mondaine Stop2Go (probably 33mm?)

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Seen on the wrist of my kid's dentist.  It took me a little bit to recognize it.  Mondaine makes what I would generously call a bog standard minimalist watch and I think narrowing down the universe of white faced watches with red seconds hands is not really possible.

But the stop2go is one of those complications that once you see it, it's pretty recognizable.  This begs the question, what is the stop2go movement?

Put simply, it is a sweeping (4 hertz or ticks per second) quartz movements with two independent motors for the hour and the seconds  hand.  At 58 seconds on the minute, the seconds hand stops for two seconds to allow the minute hands to advance.  The complication was based on the clocks of the Swiss Railway system as a way of making sure that trains left the station on the full minute.

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I honestly love stuff like this.  There's a bit of heritage, a bit of cool complication, and a lot of visual interest for a comparatively simple quartz watch.  

I don't know if it's high horology or just a neat party trick, but I frankly don't care that much.  It's fun and the watch world could use more of that these days. It's a shame they discontinued it because I would infinitely prefer this to many a quartz Instagram special.

Breitling SuperOcean (last generation)

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Seen in the lobby of my building while waiting for a fire drill to finish on the wrist of a well dressed gentleman.  I offered a compliment and we chatted a bit about the merits of the different generations of the SuperOcean.

I find the new SuperOcean...odd.  The dial feels overwhelmed relative to the bezel and rehaut.  That minute hand is....divisive.  I get that there's some history there being based on the SuperOcean Slow motion, a unique chronograph design with a 1 hour timer.

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But they did the same thing that Seiko did with the SPB127 and the Seiko Crown Chronograph from 1964 and created a three hander inspired by a chronograph with the look but not the function.  It just feels like a weird letdown.

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But one generation ago of SuperOcean, that's a beautiful watch.  I think I enjoy the giant numerals and the, by comparison, cleaner dial.  The bracelet is comfortable with the slanted oyster links.  Sure I'd prefer a no date (what watch nerd wouldn't) but all in all, it's a tough good looking watch that was overpriced the day it came out but has since settled into a much more attractively priced steady state.

Bulova Computron 1976 Reissue

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Seen on the wrist of a tattooed gentleman late at night in a restaurant in San Francisco.  I offered a quick compliment but it was loud and I guarantee he didn't hear me.

I'll admit, there was some frantic googling to figure out what this watch was which might have included the following terms.

"Hamilton PSR"

"Blue LED pyramid watch"

And my personal favorite.

"Cylon watch"

I know nothing about this watch or it's history aside from a brief Hodinkee article.

But man oh man, this was was crazy fun to look at.

What cool watches did you see this week?

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Entertaining, as usual. Thanks!

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Wow, your Old Man W&W rant is refreshing and I’m glad I’m not alone in the feelings of “…why though?!” Most of the releases are cool novelties but only for a select few. Slightly larger Explorer, slightly smaller BB, new color GS… yeah all a bit underwhelming as a consumer.

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TimeIsOnMySide

Entertaining, as usual. Thanks!

Thanks for reading my old man gripes!

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I love that Mondaine.

I spotted this Rolex OP on a gentleman seated on a leather couch by the fireplace at the lovely Tokeland Hotel on the WA coast.

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We ended up having dinner together with our spouses when I took this photo. The watch was a graduation gift from his parents.

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valleykilmers

Wow, your Old Man W&W rant is refreshing and I’m glad I’m not alone in the feelings of “…why though?!” Most of the releases are cool novelties but only for a select few. Slightly larger Explorer, slightly smaller BB, new color GS… yeah all a bit underwhelming as a consumer.

I'm seriously a major grump about this stuff. Hodinkee keeps on blaring the horn on just how this is the biggest change Rolex has ever made....and it feels like a damp fart to me.

You and I are hardly average consumers either. We are seeking this stuff out and, as often as not, willing to put our money down on it. It's just the celebration of unobtanium (the Dink just spent 10 minutes on their recent podcast talking about a ruby encrusted Daytona that Rolex will sell for $400k and humans will never actually see) juxtaposed with the ultimately very small updates for things directed at the bigger market.

Like I can walk and chew bubblegum at the same time. I like celebrating the edges and extents to which watchmaking can go....but clearly they're not really moving the ball on the other stuff. So the result is, meh.

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Sinnguy

I love that Mondaine.

I spotted this Rolex OP on a gentleman seated on a leather couch by the fireplace at the lovely Tokeland Hotel on the WA coast.

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We ended up having dinner together with our spouses when I took this photo. The watch was a graduation gift from his parents.

I love that Mondaine

I knnnnnoooowwwww. I wish they hadn't discontinued it because it's such a cool little watch.

Nice spot! Very evidently a well loved watch.

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Edge168n

I'm seriously a major grump about this stuff. Hodinkee keeps on blaring the horn on just how this is the biggest change Rolex has ever made....and it feels like a damp fart to me.

You and I are hardly average consumers either. We are seeking this stuff out and, as often as not, willing to put our money down on it. It's just the celebration of unobtanium (the Dink just spent 10 minutes on their recent podcast talking about a ruby encrusted Daytona that Rolex will sell for $400k and humans will never actually see) juxtaposed with the ultimately very small updates for things directed at the bigger market.

Like I can walk and chew bubblegum at the same time. I like celebrating the edges and extents to which watchmaking can go....but clearly they're not really moving the ball on the other stuff. So the result is, meh.

Yeah I listened to that too. I understand Rolex doesn’t do big things often.. but the YM is essentially an OG Pelagos case with grade 5 Ti and open casebacks… have been done by literally everyone else for years. It just seems weird to celebrate Ti and open backs when the likes of GS and Omega have almost perfected these so far over the years. Half a mil for a watch I’ll never see and an emoji watch that will be flipped for 4-5x cost and worn by stars like Jay-Z and John Mayor isn’t that interesting to this watch nerd.

It’s been said before but rich people buying expensive things isn’t interesting. People buying interesting things for interesting reasons is what makes this fun.

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valleykilmers

Yeah I listened to that too. I understand Rolex doesn’t do big things often.. but the YM is essentially an OG Pelagos case with grade 5 Ti and open casebacks… have been done by literally everyone else for years. It just seems weird to celebrate Ti and open backs when the likes of GS and Omega have almost perfected these so far over the years. Half a mil for a watch I’ll never see and an emoji watch that will be flipped for 4-5x cost and worn by stars like Jay-Z and John Mayor isn’t that interesting to this watch nerd.

It’s been said before but rich people buying expensive things isn’t interesting. People buying interesting things for interesting reasons is what makes this fun.

It’s been said before but rich people buying expensive things isn’t interesting. People buying interesting things for interesting reasons is what makes this fun.

Totally stealing this one. It's why I don't really care about what yacht Bezos is buying but I don't mind hearing a crazy story about the Patek Phillippe Henry Graves Supercomplication. No one but a nerd is going to actually appreciate the latter.

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W&W this year...

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Which, honestly, was a HUGE RELIEF! I mean, I got the GS9 Club email marketing all the W&W releases, looked through them all, and thought, "Oh, thank god none of them appeal to me." Ha!

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Mr.Dee.Bater

W&W this year...

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Which, honestly, was a HUGE RELIEF! I mean, I got the GS9 Club email marketing all the W&W releases, looked through them all, and thought, "Oh, thank god none of them appeal to me." Ha!

Hah! You know it's bad when you're not really interested either. I feel like they're running out of dial ideas. Another Suwa, more slight color variations on the Seasons dials, a Blue Stream ( versus the black stream), and another peacock (on a Chrono this time).

Maybe we're just getting old.

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Great Post as ever, and loved the rant. Spot on, wonderous things at wondrous prices. Don't get me wrong love the high end stuff but like you say it's mostly out of reach.

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Stricko

Great Post as ever, and loved the rant. Spot on, wonderous things at wondrous prices. Don't get me wrong love the high end stuff but like you say it's mostly out of reach.

I think I find it super hard to care when it's not even hypothetically logical to aspire to a watch, no matter how rich I become. Like, I could be a billionaire and still getting most of the really inspired stuff is a fantasy.

And then the constant propaganda by watch press about pretty darned small differencesin watches just makes me laugh.

From the Dink.

"Rolex is going precious in yellow gold once again. But the big news is the inclusion of a Jubilee bracelet. That's right, the Jubilee has made its way into both Rolesor and full gold models putting it in contention with the Day-Date as potentially being the exit watch in the Crown's catalog."

Well, my mind is blown. I mean, they make a full gold and two tone jubilee for the datejust already. But this is just revolutionary. I never, NEVER would have expected them to do it to the GMT Master II.

Pinnacle of human achievement and creativity right there. 🤣

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Welcome to Rushmore.

I will not be made to care about a Tudor with a red bezel or a bejeweled anything. Next year's GS dial will be a rendition of the light glinting off of the Toyotas in the parking lot. GS has only so many windows.

Slow week for watch sighting. Spent one full day out of the office. I had two clients accused of murder (in separate cases) meet with prosecutors to cooperate. One testified today (he was horrible) and one is lined up for the future. As is typical of this local legal community I saw Breitling and Apple watches on the attorneys. I had hours to ponder the integrated bracelet dark dialed sports watch on the investigator seated opposite me. It had an oversized 12, 9, and 6 like a Breitling but the finishing was more mundane. I concluded that it was a 15 year Citizen, perhaps a Chandler. It never felt right to ask.

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Aurelian

Welcome to Rushmore.

I will not be made to care about a Tudor with a red bezel or a bejeweled anything. Next year's GS dial will be a rendition of the light glinting off of the Toyotas in the parking lot. GS has only so many windows.

Slow week for watch sighting. Spent one full day out of the office. I had two clients accused of murder (in separate cases) meet with prosecutors to cooperate. One testified today (he was horrible) and one is lined up for the future. As is typical of this local legal community I saw Breitling and Apple watches on the attorneys. I had hours to ponder the integrated bracelet dark dialed sports watch on the investigator seated opposite me. It had an oversized 12, 9, and 6 like a Breitling but the finishing was more mundane. I concluded that it was a 15 year Citizen, perhaps a Chandler. It never felt right to ask.

I Next year's GS dial will be a rendition of the light glinting off of the Toyotas in the parking lot. GS has only so many windows.

What I really want is GS to make a watch based on the Japanese micro season Kusaretaru kusa hotaru to naru or "Rotten grass becomes fireflies." I feel like that's appropriately evocative for a dial. Imagine the lume possibilities.

It never felt right to ask.

This happens to me more than I'd care to admit. There's often just much more important stuff to do.

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Edge168n

I Next year's GS dial will be a rendition of the light glinting off of the Toyotas in the parking lot. GS has only so many windows.

What I really want is GS to make a watch based on the Japanese micro season Kusaretaru kusa hotaru to naru or "Rotten grass becomes fireflies." I feel like that's appropriately evocative for a dial. Imagine the lume possibilities.

It never felt right to ask.

This happens to me more than I'd care to admit. There's often just much more important stuff to do.

Karekusa kara Hotaru ga mau

~ “Fireflies dance up from the decaying grass “

My wife thinks it sounds poetic and beautiful!

Doesn’t sound right to use ‘ni naru’, since the cut and decaying grass doesn’t literally change into a firefly

Sitting on a grassy riverbank with wifey and daughter, as evening darkens, watching fireflies - 😌.

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Great reading! Thank you JC

Still think you should write for Hodinkee, but slamming the effusive praise for rainbow baguette jewels and yellow gold Rolexes would probably not fly.

Thoughts on the not so super Superocean (with apologies to any Breitling bros) :

I’d like to like it, but: the old model is so lopsided looking with the supersized 12, 6, 9 . Like the watch had a stroke.

New Superocean … ug, 🤦‍♂. Take a Tudor ‘snowflake’ hand, double it in size, and make totally square. Somehow made watch equally awkward and mutated looking in the new version. Oh Breitling.. 😢

I like to like divers, so pains me to dislike SO after SO

No sightings for me this week. But today had a watchy interaction:

But my banker was quite interested in my watch(es). When I say banker, I mean assistant manager at my local Scotiabank, not your world where ‘banker’ is guy with a Gulfstream and a YG GMT Master

Anyway, she wanted to know why I was double wristing (A Sakura 413 and a Garmin 945).

I happily explained I had stopped by mid run and the Garmin is recording the run, and was paused while I was in the bank. The other watch is for taking pictures of beside cherry blossoms, when I pass by some. Since it’s my Cherry blossom watch! Perfectly obvious, right? She smiled but seemed to not want more info 😂

On the rare occasions I’ve had a watch on both wrists, it gets commented on 100% of the time. Interesting it’s so jarring for people.

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Fieldwalker

Great reading! Thank you JC

Still think you should write for Hodinkee, but slamming the effusive praise for rainbow baguette jewels and yellow gold Rolexes would probably not fly.

Thoughts on the not so super Superocean (with apologies to any Breitling bros) :

I’d like to like it, but: the old model is so lopsided looking with the supersized 12, 6, 9 . Like the watch had a stroke.

New Superocean … ug, 🤦‍♂. Take a Tudor ‘snowflake’ hand, double it in size, and make totally square. Somehow made watch equally awkward and mutated looking in the new version. Oh Breitling.. 😢

I like to like divers, so pains me to dislike SO after SO

No sightings for me this week. But today had a watchy interaction:

But my banker was quite interested in my watch(es). When I say banker, I mean assistant manager at my local Scotiabank, not your world where ‘banker’ is guy with a Gulfstream and a YG GMT Master

Anyway, she wanted to know why I was double wristing (A Sakura 413 and a Garmin 945).

I happily explained I had stopped by mid run and the Garmin is recording the run, and was paused while I was in the bank. The other watch is for taking pictures of beside cherry blossoms, when I pass by some. Since it’s my Cherry blossom watch! Perfectly obvious, right? She smiled but seemed to not want more info 😂

On the rare occasions I’ve had a watch on both wrists, it gets commented on 100% of the time. Interesting it’s so jarring for people.

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Lovely pictures!

Still think you should write for Hodinkee, but slamming the effusive praise for rainbow baguette jewels and yellow gold Rolexes would probably not fly.

I am too much of a malcontent to participate in any sort of professional watch industry journalism role. Their businesses are too dependent on marketing partnerships and increasingly their own stores for there to be true editorial independence.

Which is not a value judgement in any way. They are like fashion magazines, mostly there for ads and light reading. I can dig it. But it's not me.

I’d like to like it, but: the old model is so lopsided looking with the supersized 12, 6, 9 . Like the watch had a stroke.

I don't mind lopsidedness in my watches (otherwise how would I deal with GS power reserve meters) but I also have no aspirations of owning this watch. So from a money where your mouth is perspective, you win 😉