You better spec yourself before you wreck yourself
Hopefully some people on here get the humour of my title. If not, then go research the 90's a bit more and get back to me when you're a cool, and humble, nerd like me. Below is a hint. Anyways...
My very first post on WC was about watch specs and discussing some commonly overlooked features plus ranking which are possibly more important than others. I was not expecting that thread to go viral, and it definitely did not. Who wants to talk about specs?! We're here to talk about how nice watches are and how we can somehow convince ourselves they're worth spending money on or not. Right? Well, seems maybe there is room for some techtalk after all as I have been seeing many threads pop up discussing performance specs, so I thought I would give it another go.
Going back to my original post, one of the gripes I've had since becoming an obsessed watch enthusiast is the fact the community seems to focus so much on specs that don't really matter that much. Teddy did a recent a video along similar lines. However, Max also did a survey and clearly we care more about design, which makes sense. So what this tells me is that we should only be focusing on very particular specs, only the ones that matter most!
So what are the most important specs IMO? Well for practical matters, I think the only thing that matters is movement reliability followed distantly by case construction. After all, even if you don't care all that much about accuracy, you want your watch to run! You also want it to survive "normal" circumstances. So let's get into one then the other. This is a long post, so grab a beer or coffee.
Movement
Everyone has their own ideas about movements and what makes them good or bad. Well let me say, there are opinions and there are facts. Those two can get pretty confusing, especially with a community that is so used to hearing the same things over and over. I'll try to stick to facts, if my opinions begin to contaminate then feel free to yell at me, but too bad, this is my post.
Fact #1 (mechanical watches only) - your watch movement relies on many factors which affect its performance. But none are more important than the escapement and balance wheel. In turn, the balance wheel depends on the hairspring. This one part alone can make huge differences in how reliable and accurate your movement is. So much so that manufacturers have poured millions into the hairspring materials themselves and production:
Swatch group monopolized (kinda) the production of hairsprings through the acquisition of Nivarox. This company makes very specific alloys and escapement/hairspring assemblies that are sooo specialized for a while you could only buy it from them. Naturally this didn't last forever.
At some point Rolex introduced Parachrom, their own special alloy for hairpsrings. It's a main feature on their tech info page, which talks about why their movements are so great. As clever as Rolex is, they made it blue so it could look cooler than the rest (does it need to be blue? I don't honestly know...)
Never to be outdone, the Japanese came up with SPRON. Also a fancy alloy for hairsprings. And they are not afraid to show you the testing behind it, unlike the Swiss who only use fancy words and videos, but no real-world numbers.
As of late, Omega is touting their latest balance wheel, the Spirate on their latest speedy. No doubt it will start popping up in other models. It is accurate to +2sec/day... that is near quartz accuracy from a mechanical spring!
So you get the point, balance wheels, and more specifically the hairspring, are super important. They can make or break a good movement. That is not to say other very critical parts exist, of course a good balance wheel alone doesn't make a good movement. But it sure does make an exceptional one.
Fact #2 - Any watch movement should be fit-for-use. This also relates to case construction, which I'll mention later, but let's stick to the movement. Let's assume any standard mechanical accuracy is fine by you (+/- 20 to 30sec/day). Then what is the next biggest thing? Just making sure the movement actually "moves"! What can affect this? All sorts of things: humidity, shock, magnetism, power reserve, etc. But which are you most likely to face?
Most people don't spend a majority of their time in water or operating a jack hammer. Some do, but most don't. You know what you spend a lot of time around? Magnetic fields! Yes, all electronics, plus just normal static magnets on your fridge or in your speakers are emitting magnetic fields. You are much more likely to magnetize your watch than you are to accidentally dip it in water with the crown unscrewed or hit it against a wall. Why? Because magnetic fields are invisible....
I already posted some long rants about magnetic and radioactive fields in @UnholiestJedi's post about Features of the Future, so if you care, go check out that comments section.
You want proof this matters? Look at what METAS certification requires:
METAS Certification | Inside TUDOR (tudorwatch.com)
The Master Chronometer Certification | OMEGA® (omegawatches.com)
Omega and Tudor give accounts on the fact their movements can resist 15,000 gauss of magnetic field and still operate. That's 15x more than the original Rolex Milgauss.
So why don't we care more about it?! Well I think it's because we tend to be careful with our wrist watches. But if you're a DJ, or in the army, you will probably magnetize your watch once a week (unless you have a fancy GS, Tudor or Omega). Even as an average person, you will probably magnetize your standard Seiko/Miyota movement at least once in your life, either all at once or over time.
Other than that, just get something reliable! Look at tech like Eco Drive, it's ridiculous how a movement can stay accurate with so little maintenance (none in theory). The Spring Drive too, not only is it technically quartz but it eliminates the friction caused by a standard escapement design so parts will last a lot longer! Similar with Omega's coaxial design. Workhorse movements are nicknamed such for a reason. Don't get caught up with "in-house" marketing (yeah you Tudor) for movements that have not been around for long. Just ask @HotWatchChick69 , he loves talking about it 😉
Pick a movement that is proven and can withstand the test of time and magnetism, that's my main advice at the end of the day. These are the two biggest factors most of us deal with. Now onto the case...
Watch Case
The design of the watch case matters of course. For the most part, people care about the shape of the case, to make sure it is attractive. It's all steel or plastic, so who cares about materials right? Well yeah kinda, but again, what is the use-case of the watch?
Fact #3 - All crystals are good crystals. People get caught up in the fact everything should be sapphire with AR on the backside only. But this only matters for people that sit in an office. If you're diving, or doing any physical activity, you may want something light, that won't reflect at all. Mineral crystal and acrylic work just fine for this matter. Worried about scratches? Get a screen protector! Or a case design that protects the screen itself. Casio came up with this revolutionary screen-guard tech many years ago:
If not a tube of polywatch works too every now and then. After all, watches have spent most of their history without sapphire crystals. So don't assume that is always the best option.
Fact #4 - The weight of the watch doesn't affect the wearing experience as much as the weight distribution. A good watch case design will make it so that the case "wraps around" your wrist. When the case is too block-like it can end up just bobbing around the top of your wrist making it feel like it is very heavy. Conversely, if it stays put, even if it is heavier than usual it won't feel like a burden to carry it around all day. Seiko Turtle and SKX case designs are good examples. A Turtle case "wears smaller" because it sits well on a wrist and has constrained lug-to-lug measurements. Compare that to a Tuna which is a brick and one will likely be more comfortable over time than the other.
That pic above is not to scale, just FYI. But I'm trying to make a point that comfort is not just to do with weight. In fact, I personally find titanium watches a bit annoying because they're too light for me. I do love the fact they can be more scratch resistant (Grade 5, not Grade 2) but to me a better solution is something like Sinn's Tegimented steel cases. See, you can have your cake and eat it sometimes! Although overall, scratches don't bother me all that much, builds character IMO.
Pick a case that is comfortable, not just something nice, or something with a fancy material. It can be both, but I think comfort trumps above all else. Don't get all worried about scratches, this is a watch not an art exhibit on your wrist. If you're that worried, wear a nice, soft, thick long-sleeve instead.
I think that's all about I can muster for today on specs. If you read this far, you are brave indeed. If you skipped to the ending, as @Porthole would say, the answer is: D) Seiko
Well rounded nerd, into music, guitar pedals, all things DIY, and watches!
Read the whole thing and thought, Alpinist, so I guess I’m with @Porthole.
In all serious, like everything it comes down to preferences and how much we’re willing to spend for said preferences.
Read the whole thing and thought, Alpinist, so I guess I’m with @Porthole.
In all serious, like everything it comes down to preferences and how much we’re willing to spend for said preferences.
For the record - I’m not a Seiko fan, it’s become another one of my catchphrases like “pop the back”, “do not lick lume”, “varying degrees of bastard”, and #fuckoffchrisnobodycares
The answer is always (D) Seiko
It’s interesting - because as you kind of allude to, movement is key; without it, this is all pointless. From a vintage perspective, which is pretty much my modus operandi, movement is everything. Servicing and repair are kind of outlays I need to build into a decision… I’m at a point where I can’t really justify keeping a watch that turns up dead. Unless it’s deliberate, I don’t have the time or the energy to deal with this crap anymore. The 1936 Vertex I bang on about (god Chris, change the f*cking record mate) is a good case in point: £210 including the repair and I’ve got a watch with much better pedigree than most for less than a Bambino. A good ébauche in a Swiss jobber is the main event - if I see an AS, or FHF, I’m on board. If it works relatively well, maybe a little adjustment, great. I’m not buying these for accuracy, I’m buying them to look like a hipster and pretend I’m more interesting than I am.
Cases are also key, but not as much. It’s season to taste - if they are chromed or plated, then it’s how much “patina” I can take before I think it’s a write-off. I’m not worried about water resistance or scratch protection, the glass is often acrylic anyway so I’m effectively a shareholder in Polywatch right about now. A good Denison or Borgel case is worth two generic “Fond Acier”.
Not all vintage movements are created equal - if there are adjustments it’s worth a punt. If it has anything lovely on top (Breguet mainspring?) or is something interesting (Wehrmachtswerk) then bonus points provided it doesn’t break the bank. Vintage complications can do one though.
Many parallels… I’ve definitely gone off-road though.
Read the whole thing and thought, Alpinist, so I guess I’m with @Porthole.
In all serious, like everything it comes down to preferences and how much we’re willing to spend for said preferences.
I should have mentioned Chris is highly sarcastic with his catch phrases.
But jokes aside, I agree with you in the sense Seiko offers some well rounded watches. The Alpinist is definitely one of them.
It’s interesting - because as you kind of allude to, movement is key; without it, this is all pointless. From a vintage perspective, which is pretty much my modus operandi, movement is everything. Servicing and repair are kind of outlays I need to build into a decision… I’m at a point where I can’t really justify keeping a watch that turns up dead. Unless it’s deliberate, I don’t have the time or the energy to deal with this crap anymore. The 1936 Vertex I bang on about (god Chris, change the f*cking record mate) is a good case in point: £210 including the repair and I’ve got a watch with much better pedigree than most for less than a Bambino. A good ébauche in a Swiss jobber is the main event - if I see an AS, or FHF, I’m on board. If it works relatively well, maybe a little adjustment, great. I’m not buying these for accuracy, I’m buying them to look like a hipster and pretend I’m more interesting than I am.
Cases are also key, but not as much. It’s season to taste - if they are chromed or plated, then it’s how much “patina” I can take before I think it’s a write-off. I’m not worried about water resistance or scratch protection, the glass is often acrylic anyway so I’m effectively a shareholder in Polywatch right about now. A good Denison or Borgel case is worth two generic “Fond Acier”.
Not all vintage movements are created equal - if there are adjustments it’s worth a punt. If it has anything lovely on top (Breguet mainspring?) or is something interesting (Wehrmachtswerk) then bonus points provided it doesn’t break the bank. Vintage complications can do one though.
Many parallels… I’ve definitely gone off-road though.
People don't mind washing their cars but God forbid they have to polish a crystal now and then...
I like vintage looks but the movements and variance between them drives me a bit nuts. I don't know how you do it. I have one vintage diver, a Vostok. That does it for me. Plus a Tissot quartz from my dad I guess, but that is low maintenance.
EXCELLENT post.
I think as watch nerds we are a bit too stuck in the past on some things and have moved too far into the future on others.
This does an excellent job of making me think about where I am on different topics and if I need to adjust my view point.
I kind of prefer the look of mineral over sapphire, based purely on my experiences with how they both are on my watches. On the other hand, I really don’t like scratches.
One things that bothers me about the in-house movement in my Orient is that some places state it’s antimagnetic, some don’t, and none say how… and I would ver y much like to know. I don’t believe the ‘iPads put out a bajillion gauss’ thing that came up from Omega via About Effin Time (because there are people I know who would outright be dead if that were the case, and they aren’t, thank god) but am fully aware that there’s a ton more EM and rare earth magnets in my life than there used to be.
I am also increasingly surprised by how comparatively few Eco-drives there are in watchdom, because mine has been running for the better part of twenty years.
I should have mentioned Chris is highly sarcastic with his catch phrases.
But jokes aside, I agree with you in the sense Seiko offers some well rounded watches. The Alpinist is definitely one of them.
As a Britisher, it’s a national pastime, like drinking before 12pm, imposing economic sanctions upon ourselves, and blaming the French.
Awesome, awesome, awesome read!!!
I still don't get your beef with titanium watches! Come on down to San Diego for a vacation, come over for some cocktails, and you can borrow a titanium GS watch to wear around town, and I swear that you'll become a convert.
Okay now I know what it is: You've tried other brands' titanium watches. And they suck. I get it.
It’s interesting - because as you kind of allude to, movement is key; without it, this is all pointless. From a vintage perspective, which is pretty much my modus operandi, movement is everything. Servicing and repair are kind of outlays I need to build into a decision… I’m at a point where I can’t really justify keeping a watch that turns up dead. Unless it’s deliberate, I don’t have the time or the energy to deal with this crap anymore. The 1936 Vertex I bang on about (god Chris, change the f*cking record mate) is a good case in point: £210 including the repair and I’ve got a watch with much better pedigree than most for less than a Bambino. A good ébauche in a Swiss jobber is the main event - if I see an AS, or FHF, I’m on board. If it works relatively well, maybe a little adjustment, great. I’m not buying these for accuracy, I’m buying them to look like a hipster and pretend I’m more interesting than I am.
Cases are also key, but not as much. It’s season to taste - if they are chromed or plated, then it’s how much “patina” I can take before I think it’s a write-off. I’m not worried about water resistance or scratch protection, the glass is often acrylic anyway so I’m effectively a shareholder in Polywatch right about now. A good Denison or Borgel case is worth two generic “Fond Acier”.
Not all vintage movements are created equal - if there are adjustments it’s worth a punt. If it has anything lovely on top (Breguet mainspring?) or is something interesting (Wehrmachtswerk) then bonus points provided it doesn’t break the bank. Vintage complications can do one though.
Many parallels… I’ve definitely gone off-road though.
If you start with American vintage your knowledge of what to look for with movements is that the proper Elgin, Hamilton, Waltham, or Gruen movement is in the right case. It is only after WWII that obvious ETA DNA gets into American movements.
As I have branched out I have come to appreciate any Felsa "Bidynator" automatic movement. These appear in many brands after 1942. Often the dial is worn and stained but he movement keeps going. Also, any Raketa 26XX is worth its weight in gold.
The learning curve with movements is steep, but so is learning a column shift transmission, and that is possible.
One other factor I would mention. Case diameter size. It's turning out to be my most important spec.
I've recently concluded that eco-drive is the most ideal movement so far invented. The accuracy of quartz without a need for a battery replacement (likely 20 yrs of life). Of course, the criticism about a battery change is ridiculous when you translate everything into "quantity of power reserve". A few days at most for mechanicals vs years for quartz.
My dream would be a eco-drive high accuracy quartz movement. The Citizen caliber 0100 with solar charging would be amazing. Accuracy within +-1 s per year, plus no maintenance for 20 years.
Awesome, awesome, awesome read!!!
I still don't get your beef with titanium watches! Come on down to San Diego for a vacation, come over for some cocktails, and you can borrow a titanium GS watch to wear around town, and I swear that you'll become a convert.
Okay now I know what it is: You've tried other brands' titanium watches. And they suck. I get it.
I live in OC. Maybe one day we'll get a chance to meet? I would love to look over your GS collection. I'll be adding some to my own collection sometime in the future.
I kind of prefer the look of mineral over sapphire, based purely on my experiences with how they both are on my watches. On the other hand, I really don’t like scratches.
One things that bothers me about the in-house movement in my Orient is that some places state it’s antimagnetic, some don’t, and none say how… and I would ver y much like to know. I don’t believe the ‘iPads put out a bajillion gauss’ thing that came up from Omega via About Effin Time (because there are people I know who would outright be dead if that were the case, and they aren’t, thank god) but am fully aware that there’s a ton more EM and rare earth magnets in my life than there used to be.
I am also increasingly surprised by how comparatively few Eco-drives there are in watchdom, because mine has been running for the better part of twenty years.
I should mention there are key differences between different "in-house" movements. Orient is a good example. They have in-house movements yes, but they are made by EPSON, who own Seiko who manufacture their movements through SII. So even though the F series and NH series movements are different, they have the same design legacy and importantly, the same general manufacturing supply chain. So it is far better bet to take a chance on Orient movements than others.
Also look at Swatch's Powermatic found in many Tissot watches. It is effectively a modified ETA movement. Swatch Group, who own ETA just used their own factories to modify their own movement and call it something else. So is it in-house? Yes, but it's made from the horse's mouth, so it's a far better bet as well. Unlike some smaller brands who take on modifications themselves for example and then call it in-house.
Even though I give Tudor a hard time, they are owned by Rolex. These are expert watch-makers so all their in-house calibers are pretty trust-worthy considering they've been making or tinkering with them for the better part of a century. Not the same as a newer player in the in-house game like Oris. Their Calibre in-house movements are muuuuch pricier than the generic Sellita's they typically use. But to be fair they give you a 10 year warranty, which is the longest offered I know of, to entice you to take that leap of faith. Still, you're paying a lot more for their R&D costs.
Now the Eco-drives I know of also are going strong decades on. I think most people get rid of them because they get bored with the watches, not because they stop working. Citizen/Miyota can make some of the best quartz movements but their watch designs are not as timeless unfortunately. Very few "staples" in the Citizen catalogue, but they do exist, especially some Dive and Chrono models.
Awesome, awesome, awesome read!!!
I still don't get your beef with titanium watches! Come on down to San Diego for a vacation, come over for some cocktails, and you can borrow a titanium GS watch to wear around town, and I swear that you'll become a convert.
Okay now I know what it is: You've tried other brands' titanium watches. And they suck. I get it.
The ONLY reason I can't visit you is BECAUSE I know what an efficient GS enabler you can be. I can't afford it yet! You are completely right, I have no beef with titanium, just haven't come across one I like.
I'm also particular if other's have noticed. I love a lot of what GS stands for and offers. I have said, and will continue to say, if one day they make their spring drive dive watches in a sub 42mm case I will sell whatever I have to to buy one. Titanium or otherwise. For now, a dress watch is still my preferred pick, but still saving up pennies for that.
One other factor I would mention. Case diameter size. It's turning out to be my most important spec.
I've recently concluded that eco-drive is the most ideal movement so far invented. The accuracy of quartz without a need for a battery replacement (likely 20 yrs of life). Of course, the criticism about a battery change is ridiculous when you translate everything into "quantity of power reserve". A few days at most for mechanicals vs years for quartz.
My dream would be a eco-drive high accuracy quartz movement. The Citizen caliber 0100 with solar charging would be amazing. Accuracy within +-1 s per year, plus no maintenance for 20 years.
Always try a watch on when possible. Case diameter is only part of the story. Lug to lug distance, shape and thickness all play important parts. You can get a small diameter watch that towers on your wrist. Conversely, you can get a larger diameter that looks sleek. If you're into bracelets that changes things too. A bulky end-link can make the watch "look" bigger than it is.
Try on the watch, go for looks and comfort on your wrist specifically. This is my humble suggestion.
Things I don't need a ton of is WR, accuracy, power reserve. Just enough 😅
But I want overall ruggedness to be as high as possible but that balance itself out for me because comfort is even higher on the list. How good the watch looks is probably most important, yes. Or else I wouldn't wear it or at least not comfortably.
How ever there is important to recognize that other factors might be more important to others. Like putting interesting complications, unique design and/or movements above general ruggedness and reliability 😊
Others might value price while others might case about the fasion aspect. While some care only about status.
Great read, thank you!
Andrew did a video recently where he debunked the Spirate 'invention'. Check it out.
https://youtu.be/TD6BrJ0E-SY
I'd add on top of that for me a DLC coating is pretty important too - my Seiko beaters are spotless after months of abuse whereas my Omega's seem to get scratched up just looking at them!! Probably not important for the majority of WIS, but pretty critical for me. 🤔
I really enjoyed your post man. Such a good read haha. Looking forward to many more
I don't think anyone has mentioned legibility have they? As someone rapidly approaching Middle age (and never had good eyesight to begin with), being able to actually read the watch is becoming increasingly important. Thus, as I grow older but not necessarily wiser, I find myself edging towards Divers over Chronos (my one true love except for my wife). Generally easier to read, good lume in low light etc. But not actually needing to go diving, I can't justify a #doxasub300t or a #certina DS4 (or a 1974 Australian Navy Certina), So #seiko and #citizen fill the gap for the same reason I would like to drive a Mercedes but instead, just bought a new Toyota- dependable, reasonably priced Japanese Engineering that has been around 100+ years and commoditised good quality products through economies of scale.
Great read, thank you!
Andrew did a video recently where he debunked the Spirate 'invention'. Check it out.
https://youtu.be/TD6BrJ0E-SY
Wonder why they're not putting these on a new lineups of Milgauss. I guess there's a bunch of Rolex owners who's being used as long term R&D testers or something.
The ONLY reason I can't visit you is BECAUSE I know what an efficient GS enabler you can be. I can't afford it yet! You are completely right, I have no beef with titanium, just haven't come across one I like.
I'm also particular if other's have noticed. I love a lot of what GS stands for and offers. I have said, and will continue to say, if one day they make their spring drive dive watches in a sub 42mm case I will sell whatever I have to to buy one. Titanium or otherwise. For now, a dress watch is still my preferred pick, but still saving up pennies for that.
GS 413 and 415, Sakura and Winter sky, are 40.0 mm and don't wear very big at that 😉
I don't think anyone has mentioned legibility have they? As someone rapidly approaching Middle age (and never had good eyesight to begin with), being able to actually read the watch is becoming increasingly important. Thus, as I grow older but not necessarily wiser, I find myself edging towards Divers over Chronos (my one true love except for my wife). Generally easier to read, good lume in low light etc. But not actually needing to go diving, I can't justify a #doxasub300t or a #certina DS4 (or a 1974 Australian Navy Certina), So #seiko and #citizen fill the gap for the same reason I would like to drive a Mercedes but instead, just bought a new Toyota- dependable, reasonably priced Japanese Engineering that has been around 100+ years and commoditised good quality products through economies of scale.
You say you cannot justify them, but that’s from a practical perspective I’m assuming - right? It’s ok to just like them and wear them because of that reason. You really don’t need to justify something you like, it’s not the Spanish Inquisition (no-one expects the… yeah, no). I don’t need a dive watch, but I wear one as a beater because I’m hardcore. I don’t need to wear a 1940 issued ATP as a daily, I just do because I’m an icon.
Reason be damned, a cool watch is a cool watch.
Great read, thank you!
Andrew did a video recently where he debunked the Spirate 'invention'. Check it out.
https://youtu.be/TD6BrJ0E-SY
I would agree the Spirate is not so much an invention as it is a new design feature for Omega. It has been possible for some time now to regulate high quality mechanical movements to be accurate within a couple of seconds. So yes, as usual lots of marketing to make something look fancier than it is.
However, one thing I will give to Omega is they have the cohones to list the accuracy as 0/+2sec per day. That means people will hold their feet to the fire on that figure and anything outside it can be a warranty claim. So in that sense they are actually putting out something to give them an edge over Rolex and others IMO.
I don't think anyone has mentioned legibility have they? As someone rapidly approaching Middle age (and never had good eyesight to begin with), being able to actually read the watch is becoming increasingly important. Thus, as I grow older but not necessarily wiser, I find myself edging towards Divers over Chronos (my one true love except for my wife). Generally easier to read, good lume in low light etc. But not actually needing to go diving, I can't justify a #doxasub300t or a #certina DS4 (or a 1974 Australian Navy Certina), So #seiko and #citizen fill the gap for the same reason I would like to drive a Mercedes but instead, just bought a new Toyota- dependable, reasonably priced Japanese Engineering that has been around 100+ years and commoditised good quality products through economies of scale.
In my head dial legibility falls more into the 'design' category vs strict spec. Although back to crystals, I find the mineral crystals alot easier to read through. My Citizen promaster diver I can read from my waistline at any angle as an example.
Have you looked at Ball watches? They have tritium gas markers so no light charging needed and their marvelight models come with a date cyclops. Super easy to read any time of day or night IMO.
GS 413 and 415, Sakura and Winter sky, are 40.0 mm and don't wear very big at that 😉
You're clearly colluding with @HotWatchChick69 ....
You say you cannot justify them, but that’s from a practical perspective I’m assuming - right? It’s ok to just like them and wear them because of that reason. You really don’t need to justify something you like, it’s not the Spanish Inquisition (no-one expects the… yeah, no). I don’t need a dive watch, but I wear one as a beater because I’m hardcore. I don’t need to wear a 1940 issued ATP as a daily, I just do because I’m an icon.
Reason be damned, a cool watch is a cool watch.
Can't justify it from a wife perspective 😜. Otherwise I 100% agree.
Can't justify it from a wife perspective 😜. Otherwise I 100% agree.
Ah… now that’s what we call a variable…
Great read. Thanks for the knowledge.
I simply require one spec…. Does it make me look coolasfcuk 💥🔥😂