“Go Big or Go Home” and “Buy Once, Cry Once” - What do you think of this concept?

I watched a video from Harrison Elmore today talking about “mistakes” when collecting watches. He brought up the point of watch enthusiasts always seeking the “value” option of the watch we REALLY want.

It got me thinking. Ever since I was 18, I ALWAYS wanted a Rolex. No, not the flashy and trendy models. A 16200 Datejust, a 14000 Air King, a 115200 Date; their neo-vintage and pre-owned “entry models” in their catalog. My pupils widen and my heart thumps faster when I see one. I daydream about them often and save pictures of them thinking, “One day.”

Most of the watches I’ve owned have disappointed me with QC. But all of them are under $500. I got a reality check recently when I explained my plight on Reddit and the commenters explained to me that I’d have to pay more to get a TRUE high quality piece. Someone mentioned German brands and now I’m looking to add a brand new Stowa 36mm to my collection.

I also realized I’d always looked for a cheaper alternative to the watch I ACTUALLY wanted. An Islander, a Traska, a Steinhart, a Christopher Ward. They’re all great watches.

But they’re not what I really want.

Granted, I’m still young. I’m 25 now. But part of me wants to just “lock in” and save with the goal of buying one of my dream Rolexes by the time I’m around 30. Buy a Stowa as a quality daily in the near future and then save for years without buying another watch until I reach my goal.

What do you folks think of theee concepts (nothing will replace the real thing)? Would you rather save to buy the watch you REALLY want instead of cheaper alternatives?

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A few points:

  1. Have you examined why the idea of owning a Rolex makes you feel that way? Is it the status of owning one, or is it something inherent to the watch itself? There is no wrong answer, but until you understand what it is about a watch that makes you want it, you are unlikely to be happy with any watch. For example, if the status of owning a Rolex is the driving factor, then nothing short of a brand of equal status to Rolex will do. If the idea is to get a well made watch that will last for decades, brands from CW to Longines, to Tudor will easily suffice. It all comes down to what you want from your watch.

  2. Have you balanced your wants against whether they are realistic? I want an 85' steel explorer yacht, but realistically I will never own one. With watches I want an Omega Globemaster, but I have a "normal" job with a slightly above average income. I have better/more useful things I can spend $10-12K CAD on than a watch I want.

  3. Have you gotten over the mental block over cost that caused you to sell a sub $1K CW last summer? If a $1K watch made you question what you were doing, a watch costing several times that much will do the same. Buyers remorse is normal after a big purchase, but it has to be within reason.

If you want a well made watch that will get you by until you can reasonably afford a Rolex, you'd be hard pressed to beat a CW for finishing and specs. That said, be careful... A C63 Sealander is what finally convinced me that chasing after luxury brands was a waste of time.

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I don't think there is a universal answer to these problems, but you can narrow down the answer for yourself by doing stuff like you have been doing. If you've been trying out reasonable and affordable watches that have some of the same qualities you're looking for, and nothing is really fitting, it might mean it's time to slow it down, save money, and take a serious look at trying to get what you've been after for a while. I'd try hard to get hands on with the Rolex models you're after though, and no watch is perfect in the QC department.

Also, as a fellow mid-twenties fella, I think it's worth considering whether you'd be comfortable wearing that much money on your wrist and the signal it will send to the small number of people who will think it means something. I'm after a couple seamaster models, but I've had to think a lot about whether I'd even be relaxed while wearing something like that. I'm sort of lucky that I don't care about case scratches and stuff, but it's still slightly concerning.

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Dallen

I don't think there is a universal answer to these problems, but you can narrow down the answer for yourself by doing stuff like you have been doing. If you've been trying out reasonable and affordable watches that have some of the same qualities you're looking for, and nothing is really fitting, it might mean it's time to slow it down, save money, and take a serious look at trying to get what you've been after for a while. I'd try hard to get hands on with the Rolex models you're after though, and no watch is perfect in the QC department.

Also, as a fellow mid-twenties fella, I think it's worth considering whether you'd be comfortable wearing that much money on your wrist and the signal it will send to the small number of people who will think it means something. I'm after a couple seamaster models, but I've had to think a lot about whether I'd even be relaxed while wearing something like that. I'm sort of lucky that I don't care about case scratches and stuff, but it's still slightly concerning.

Thank you for the well thought out reply! That means a lot. Am I comfortable spending that much on a Rolex right now? Absolutely not. Maybe in five to ten years, sure, but not now.

But you're right with the first paragraph. There was a period I was hectically searching for a 36mm watch under a strict price point, not something I REALLY wanted. I've been into collecting for seven years and I've reached a point where I want to decide if taking a big leap to luxury is the right choice for me and if it will be truly worth it.

What Seamasters are you looking at?

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KristianG

A few points:

  1. Have you examined why the idea of owning a Rolex makes you feel that way? Is it the status of owning one, or is it something inherent to the watch itself? There is no wrong answer, but until you understand what it is about a watch that makes you want it, you are unlikely to be happy with any watch. For example, if the status of owning a Rolex is the driving factor, then nothing short of a brand of equal status to Rolex will do. If the idea is to get a well made watch that will last for decades, brands from CW to Longines, to Tudor will easily suffice. It all comes down to what you want from your watch.

  2. Have you balanced your wants against whether they are realistic? I want an 85' steel explorer yacht, but realistically I will never own one. With watches I want an Omega Globemaster, but I have a "normal" job with a slightly above average income. I have better/more useful things I can spend $10-12K CAD on than a watch I want.

  3. Have you gotten over the mental block over cost that caused you to sell a sub $1K CW last summer? If a $1K watch made you question what you were doing, a watch costing several times that much will do the same. Buyers remorse is normal after a big purchase, but it has to be within reason.

If you want a well made watch that will get you by until you can reasonably afford a Rolex, you'd be hard pressed to beat a CW for finishing and specs. That said, be careful... A C63 Sealander is what finally convinced me that chasing after luxury brands was a waste of time.

Thank you so much for replying! That means a lot to me. To answer your points:

1) Bit of both brand prestige and the qualities of the watches themselves. The case shape, movement, finishing and quite frankly the brand name on the dial all attract me to the watch. HOWEVER, the idea of a Tudor Prince Date or Day Date is tempting. Looks very similar, made by a Rolex "sub-brand" and costs roughly half of any Rolex model I'm looking at. I'm thinking about re-buying a CW Sealander 36mm (imagine it on a nice elastic strap...ooo) or snagging a nice Stowa Marine 36, because both are high quality watches that can last me years.

2) Right now, it's not realistic. Even half money I could spend on a Rolex could be used towards retirement, investing, or a down payment on a car. Maybe it will be a different story in a few years, but I can't say for certain.

3) I think so. When I sold the CW, I had student loans to pay back and an okay income. Now, I have no more student loans and a new job with more income. But I'd still think long and hard before spending $1k on a watch to make sure it will be worth it.

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I echo many of the sentiments noted by @KristianG. I’ll add that I think what might be part of your problem is that you’re buying watches with an unhealthy initial mindset. I don’t feel anybody is ever completely satisfied if they feel they are settling - so if you continue purchasing the Traskas, CWs, etc as substitutes (or alternatives) to what you really want it only hurts your odds of finding happiness.

Comparison is the thief of joy, and I really feel your best path forward is finding a watch you want for what it is, rather than what you want it to be. Just my two cents 👍

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golfping59

Thank you for the well thought out reply! That means a lot. Am I comfortable spending that much on a Rolex right now? Absolutely not. Maybe in five to ten years, sure, but not now.

But you're right with the first paragraph. There was a period I was hectically searching for a 36mm watch under a strict price point, not something I REALLY wanted. I've been into collecting for seven years and I've reached a point where I want to decide if taking a big leap to luxury is the right choice for me and if it will be truly worth it.

What Seamasters are you looking at?

I'm a big fan of the SMP300 and the planet ocean. They're not very similar, but they're the top of the pile for me. The only watches above that price point I like are Panerais, but I'm not sure I'll ever spend the money for one. I'm pretty sure I'll end up buying one of the omegas. Current mood leans toward the SMP300. The planet ocean seemed quite large on paper, but I tried one on and wasn't bothered at all by the size. It felt pretty much the same as my GSAR's size.

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I would save to buy at 30 as you said. All the watches you mention are indeed great, but if they are not what you want get a solid GADA and save. If you want options also get a G-Shock. You’ll be covered for daily and have a true beater.

When I was you age, in the mid-80s, I was set on a Rolex for med school graduation. It had to be reference 15010. That was my dream watch. 38 years later it remains by far my most worn watch. I don’t take it to the beach anymore, but it goes everywhere else. My grail came before most of the watches in my collection.

In summary, buy the watch that will make you happy. Only you can know what you like.

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Nicely expressed. I think these are questions any reasonably engaged "enthusiast" has wrestled with. If you truly love the icons you've mentioned, then I think any placeholder watch will do while you save for your goal, if you really will be satisfied with them. As long as you know it's a temporary placeholder, not a permanent substitute.

I'm some multiple of your age and for me, the watch game is about affordable variety. But that is only for me. I admire the icons but can do it from afar and, personally, don't need to own any. However, I'll never really know just how wonderful or disappointing ownership of one is. But I've made my peace with that.

No one can tell you the right path for you. And you will not likely know until you reach the goal. I say strive for it but be open to opportunities. In the lyrics of John Lennon, "Life is what happens while you're busy making other plans."

Best of luck

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I completely agree with all the comments above. The Rolexes you're wanting isn't all that out of reach. However, when you mentioned a down payment on a car - I believe the car is much more important than the watch. Just like owning a car, you need to factor in the service of maintenance which on Rolexes is a pretty penny. Watches and cars are like having kids, you can read all the books in the world to raise kids and have all the money in the bank to afford kids. But you'll always come across QC issues in life LOL 😂🤣😆 Good luck with your decision and choice. Stay Thirsty My Man 🍻👊🏽

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Why don't you start experimenting with high-end brands like Tudor or Breitling and in a few years you take the step for a Rolex, by the way, I was able to buy my first and only Rolex at the age of 52, but before that I experimented with Omegas and Tag Heuer's, for example.

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90s Rolex is elite

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golfping59

Thank you so much for replying! That means a lot to me. To answer your points:

1) Bit of both brand prestige and the qualities of the watches themselves. The case shape, movement, finishing and quite frankly the brand name on the dial all attract me to the watch. HOWEVER, the idea of a Tudor Prince Date or Day Date is tempting. Looks very similar, made by a Rolex "sub-brand" and costs roughly half of any Rolex model I'm looking at. I'm thinking about re-buying a CW Sealander 36mm (imagine it on a nice elastic strap...ooo) or snagging a nice Stowa Marine 36, because both are high quality watches that can last me years.

2) Right now, it's not realistic. Even half money I could spend on a Rolex could be used towards retirement, investing, or a down payment on a car. Maybe it will be a different story in a few years, but I can't say for certain.

3) I think so. When I sold the CW, I had student loans to pay back and an okay income. Now, I have no more student loans and a new job with more income. But I'd still think long and hard before spending $1k on a watch to make sure it will be worth it.

Clearly you're on the right track, as you've taken the time to think about what it is you want and how realistic it is.

If you're looking for a solid GADA to tide you over until you get the Rolex of your dreams, the CW C65 Dune is a solid contender. It's a bit more refined than the Sealander, and not outrageously expensive. The sunburst dial and high polish indexes make it a bit more blingy than a Sealander, without going overboard. The other great thing about CW is they aren't Tudor or Longines expensive, but are still finished to a high enough standard that you won't feel like you're buying a "cheap" watch.

I have no personal experience with Stowa, so can't really offer much regarding them.

If you want to go a bit "out there" and go with a "toolish" GADA, a Damasko DS30 is a solid option. Very much a tool watch, but not so "toolish" it looks out of place in business casual, or a suit.

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The problem, as I see it is that you got into watches too soon. This is an expensive game, and it tends to be easier to play as you age. As you’ve figured out, you’ll probably be better able to afford a Rolex in a few years.

Beyond that, I concur that knowing your motivations is key. I don’t think there’s anything wrong with wanting the prestige that can come with a recognized brand like Rolex. And if that’s what you’re after, I think it’s worth saving your money until you can afford it. If it’s not about the brand, then maybe you can be happy with something else, and there’s certainly a lot of watches that are very good and represent better value.

In the end, you’ll make mistakes but eventually you’ll find your answers. Good luck.

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I have been collecting or just messing with mechanical watches for a very very long time, my youngest daughter is a decade older than you are, both of my daughters are watch enthusiasts but obviously have benefitted from having a father who helped nurture the hobby. I have read the comments already offered and can suggest no better. We are all living during an amazing age for avid watch hobbyists but a ridiculous period to crave Rolex watches. My first serious watches purchased when I was in my middle 30s were also Rolex but I personally found the watches in the Rolex catalogue to be lacking character, complexity, they were robust perfectly manufactured tool watches that through clever marketing became so much more than they were: mostly mechanical 3 handers that told the time of day. My personal iinvestigation would include owning some brands that produced true horology: perpetual calendars, triple calendars, chronographs, moonphases, Worldtimers, duo time zone watches etcetera but the best brands are generally well beyond my realistic financial reach, I stopped the pursuit years ago after owning a few APs, one PP perpetual essentially gifted to me by a family friend for a silly low price that made ownership possible. These days, I buy watches with the single criterion: they are objects that I truly desire, watches that I will wear with no consideration for the regard they possess for other members of the watch collecting mob.

My only sincere advice for you is try to determine what it is you are looking for in a timepiece, with brutal honesty, if only Rolex can calm your desire that must be the watch(es) that you own. I would enjoy a Moser, or a Parmigiani but predictably my next watch purchase is going to be from a few of my favourite brands: Grand Seiko, Breitling or Omega. The first 2 are under 20k cad while the Omega PO retails for under 11k cad, dollars that in my opinion will be well spent to keep my interest in a hobby that has treated me well, relevant to me. Good luck.

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I’d say save and get the Rolex. I bought this 16234 last year and haven’t bought a watch since (actually that’s not true. But I haven’t bought many lol)

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What! "He brought up the point of watch enthusiasts always seeking the “value” option of the watch we REALLY want."

What BS! No reason to read this guy anymore.

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“Buy Once, Cry Once” is a good concept to follow if you can afford it and really undoubtedly believe that your taste won't change. Unfortunately that's not always the case. I bought my first "expensive" watch in my early 30's and wore it everyday for 12+ years. When I start looking at watches on YouTube around 2018, my adoration for my perfect watch changed. Seeing so many options out there, my watch looks dated, old, and damn, "it's a quartz". Now, I have a watch box,12 watches, and 30+ sets of straps.

We men tend to get easily distracted and easily attracted to pretty shiny things (women). If you love watches, “Buy Once, Cry Once” is probably not the correct mindset now in your 20's. Just an old man's opinion. Below is my daily watch.

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you’re giving yourself 5 years to save up for it so I think it’s a sensible decision. Think of it this way -

In 5 years time you’ll have a stack of cash and if at that point you decide not to buy, there’s a whole bunch of other stuff you can do with that money. Win win.

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golfping59

Thank you so much for replying! That means a lot to me. To answer your points:

1) Bit of both brand prestige and the qualities of the watches themselves. The case shape, movement, finishing and quite frankly the brand name on the dial all attract me to the watch. HOWEVER, the idea of a Tudor Prince Date or Day Date is tempting. Looks very similar, made by a Rolex "sub-brand" and costs roughly half of any Rolex model I'm looking at. I'm thinking about re-buying a CW Sealander 36mm (imagine it on a nice elastic strap...ooo) or snagging a nice Stowa Marine 36, because both are high quality watches that can last me years.

2) Right now, it's not realistic. Even half money I could spend on a Rolex could be used towards retirement, investing, or a down payment on a car. Maybe it will be a different story in a few years, but I can't say for certain.

3) I think so. When I sold the CW, I had student loans to pay back and an okay income. Now, I have no more student loans and a new job with more income. But I'd still think long and hard before spending $1k on a watch to make sure it will be worth it.

The Tudor Prince Date 74000 and the Oyster Perpetual Date 15200 are the same watch in terms of how they are made. The finishing isn't just similar, it is the essentially the exact same.

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In some ways the Tudor is nicer. Thinner, better bracelet. The only thing I don't know for sure is whether or not the dial markers and hands are white gold. The Rolex case is 904L but the band might still be 316L (the internet isn't 100% clear on that) just like the whole Tudor.

It's pretty simple. If you aren't happy with the Tudor in terms of quality then you won't be with the Rolex. If it's about brand prestige, then it must be Rolex of course. You need to be honest to yourself.

Oh, and I wouldn't buy the Stowa as a placeholder. Make up your mind and then start saving for the thing you want most and will realistically be able to afford within the next few years.

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I'm a believer of you are who you are today, not who you will be tomorrow or who you were yesterday. I apply this in most aspects of my life, including my watch hobby. What I buy today is what I want today and what I can afford today, not what I can potentially afford in 5 years time or what my former, younger self thinks is reasonable. My younger self had less money and therefore will only judge watches for how less I could get them, not taking into account what really sparks joy.. My future self may be richer or poorer than my today self so I csn't rely on his opinions either. I am who am today, not who I will be tomorrow or who I was yesterday.

If I can't afford what I want today, I go down my list until I find a watch that I equally want but I could buy without sweating. Surely as collectors we have more than 1 desired watch? What I don't do is look for a substitute because there disappointment lies waiting. Example, I want a tourbillon. But I can't afford a tourbillon. So I go down my list. I want a moonphase. That's more affordable than a tourbillon. I take the tourbillon off the table for now and focus on getting a moonphase.

I think unless you stop comparing the watches you buy with the Rolex you want you won't be able to enjoy any of your watches. Take it off the table. Jusr for now. If you're planning to get it in five years' time anyway, why stress over it today? Is there a different kind of watch you desire? Something that is so different from the Rolex you want? Maybe focus on that first.

Last thought: I don't save for watches. I believe that they are frivolous, superflous, unnecessary and not worth adjusting your life over. Save for a vacation or a house. If buying a watch changes how you live you can't afford it. So take it off the table. Focus on what you afford. My two cenrs, for what it's worth.

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StevieC54

What! "He brought up the point of watch enthusiasts always seeking the “value” option of the watch we REALLY want."

What BS! No reason to read this guy anymore.

I can understand where you’re coming from. Maybe “always” is the wrong word to use here.

For example, someone will think “I really want an Omega Aqua Terra” but then see the price tag, think, “Oh man, I can’t justify that! Let me see a similar watch that’s less expensive” then find a really nice Christopher Ward and buy that instead and are totally happy with the CW and never really wanted the Omega in the first place.

However, some may buy the CW but still think, “man, I really should’ve bought the Omega, this watch isn’t doing it for me.” And there’s no right answer to the dilemma, you know? Here’s the video if you’re interested. https://youtu.be/OY_nvvT7sR8?si=9K-hCAnHD6m6AB_P

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I think it depends on your personality. It can be a success strategy many, but if your a bit of seeker with some addictive personality traits, then you may just set the bar higher and higher with respect to what is an ok price to pay for a watch.

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I often look at my collection (all sub $500) and think, "If I didn't buy these 4 or 5 watches (or if i sell these 4 or 5 watches), I could have a ________. " But than I wonder if I would be happier with 2 or 3 expensive watches vs 10 or 12 cheaper watches. And I don't think I would be. Everyone's experience and preference is different, but for me, part of the fun is having choices (as long as they all get worn). I admire folks who can own 2 or 3 higher end watches and be happy, but I know that will never be me. Maybe it is for you, though.

Having goals and "grail watches" is a big part of collecting, however, I would recommend not dwelling too much on your "grail watch" as it will make everything else seem not good enough, and will rob you of the joy of owning some really great watches that you can afford right now.

Of course, that's just my opinion, for whatever it's worth....

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I agree with that. When you want a watch there will hardly be a cheaper one that can scratch the itch, so go big or go home.

And I think less is more, having a small collection allows you to really enjoy the watches and be able to appreciate them completely. While having a ridiculously big collection sometimes you save a lot to buy a watch that you rarely wear.

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Don't buy the placeholder. Every time you look at it, it will be that - the placeholder. When I was younger I did the same thing, only to regret spending the money instead of applying it what I really wanted. Instant gratification is not always great. Be strong👍💰

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Now to give you some advice from someone who was a high earning 25 year old who spent all three money on luxary things at the cost of not having assets.

Do not buy a Rolex until you have baught yourself a house.

Invest in a good quality index fund (ideally a mixture of world, s&p500, Nasdaq, emergung markets, nifty50 and FTSE250)

Get yourself a couple buy 2 let's

Once you have the money to buy the Rolex, without blinking on the cost, then buy the Rolex. You won't have to settle, and you won't have to worry or trade off your future to have it. It will be earned, that image you probably have of having the Rolex is probably having the wealth of you would expect the wearer to have. You will have.

Wish I had followed this advice much earlier on.. hope you follow it and get your Rolex 😁

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I think part of the fun of this hobby is trying different brands, styles, complications. It is always prudent to save up for that big purchase but don't forget to enjoy the journey. Get a watch or three that don't look like the grail and don't be afraid to go off script. Maybe check out some square watches, maybe try out a Tuna or Arnie, definitely pick up a G Shock. Buy, sell, trade in and out of different watches. Five years can seem like a lifetime in this hobby, so don't plow through it with blinders on. Take your time with it all.

I think Stowa would be a great choice. I love my Antea Classic. Great under the radar brand with solid finishing and attention to detail. The Marine and the Partitio are great looking watches as well. The Partitio has some cool history behind it too. Pretty sure Stowa made some for the French army following WWII as part of reparations. Anyhow, whichever direction you chose, have fun with it.

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One thing to consider is the value retention. You might keep more money if you sell a used rolex with a stable price than $500 micro brand/seiko watches

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This probably won’t help answer your question but I like that you said an 115200. It is such an underrated ref in my opinion. I got mine in my 30s and I love it. I will say though, after I got it it made anything that is still expensive but less expensive seem like not as much of a spend. It can get costly real quick. But then again, that may just be me.

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In my opinion everyone should have one ☝️