'Orage's Story - Is your microbrand a designer, or a watchmaker?
(facetious subtitle employed for engagement - not to start any arguments! I've got no stake in this company, just like them and so I'm sharing it here. Skip if u know the story already!)
Since it’s their 15th Anniversary, Horage just posted a nice little wrap up of how they became watchmakers on their site. Thought I'd share some highlights for anyone interested:
Becoming a brand: a husband and wife team who worked Swiss and German watch companies, committed to becoming their own brand in 2007.
Name created using Hora - (meaning time, and Age (meaning epoch/lifetime), and with it's french pronunciation they created 'Orage' (meaning Thunderstorm)
Starting in 2009 with an ETA movement for their first watch, the Omnium, it was released at Baselworld that year.
It was a serviceable movement but they were not fully happy with ETA, so they negotiated with Swiss movement maker Vaucher for 18 months to have it become their dream movement manufacturer.
Then in an unsurprising but cut-throat move, Hermes acquired a large stake of Vaucher and axed the long hammered out deal with Horage.
Left in the cold, the new company decided to take on a figurative (literal?) mountain and they would design and build their own movement. How hard to do this?
Well, like climbing Masherbrum K1, almost all perish in the attempt.
Plot twist: The mathematician/engineer who was a director at Vaucher movements (Florian Serex) was upset how Horage was treated, and he quit. He decided to join the new company the his old company had wronged.
After developing their first movement, the K1, in succeeding years they would go on to design and build the K1 GMT, a K1 tourbillon, and a K1 micro rotor with jump hour. And building always with 904 steel or grade 5 Ti, fully silicon escapements and pallets, and COSC in mind.
Now they're working on their current project: a 3.6mm micro rotor tourbillon for a sub 10mm watch.
Horage's fully Swiss made micro rotor tourbillon watches start at 10K CHF, comparables start at 40k CHF.
Industry margins are generally in the 7x to 10x range. Famous brands can go as high as 30x manufacture cost. Small micros operate closer to 3 -3.5x
Using pre orders, cost controls, direct to consumer sales - they eke things out at margins as low as 1.4x cost, which was the margin on their first tourbillon watch.
Hope you enjoyed the background story of 'Orage, a small Swiss watchmaker, that's actually Swiss, that I admire.
One last fun note: they write ‘hand made’ or ‘Bien Bheil’ in small print on the dial, not ‘Swiss Made’
With 98% of the watch coming from Switzerland and being 100% made in Switzerland…. ‘Orage considered the 60% of a watches value meaning of “Swiss Made” to render the term virtually meaningless.
(the more detailed and longer story is found in the forums on their website, where they intermittently talk at length about the process of becoming a watchmaker and making watches)
@fieldwalker.watch/ on Instagram. 一期一会 Treasure the unrepeatable nature of a moment. Zen Zaratsu state of mind. ~6” wrist. Explore the ocean and the mountains in my free time.
@SpecKTator @celinesimon @AllTheWatches @Fieldwalker @valleykilmers @Mr.Dee.Bater @TheHoroSexual @UnholiestJedi @Edge168n @Stricko @Mr.Santana @FlatteryCamp @Ichibunz @hakki501 @ChronoGuy
That's a massive step for a small concern to go it alone, where as most would gone to another supplier for a movement, credit to them. Wish them success. Thanks for a great write up on a small independent, cheers👍
I watched their origin video on YT a few months ago which echos much of this in a more cinematic way, but the story is pretty crazy.
I’m glad they didn’t end up with Vaucher since I had issues with their movement esp with my gone but not forgotten Hermes h08 … and it’s wasn’t just me other crunchers can attest the same issue. Was disappointed and quite annoyed for a bit high end movement can be lousy .. oh well! So glad Horage was able to create their own and it is at times better when you do!!
Super interesting brand. Great post!
Great and inspiring story, my friend. Thanks for sharing. Will take a look then at the Horage website, and check if there's one that'll catch my attention. 🍻
Btw, which Horage watch is in your collection? I don't remember seeing you wear one, if my memory serves me right.
Interesting post, thx appreciated as always! 👍
I like their supersede gmt. Micro rotor is cool
Love this. I cannot state the virtues of this brand enough. In my view, one of the most under appreciated brand out today and they are doing things few brands, micro or conglomerate.
That's a massive step for a small concern to go it alone, where as most would gone to another supplier for a movement, credit to them. Wish them success. Thanks for a great write up on a small independent, cheers👍
Thanks Rob! It’s a great start up story that I don’t think gets much press, so just want to share 🙂
I watched their origin video on YT a few months ago which echos much of this in a more cinematic way, but the story is pretty crazy.
Cheers John 🍻
Yes - The Chasing Microns film was great - but I felt a touch long for what they wanted to accomplish with it.
I’m glad they didn’t end up with Vaucher since I had issues with their movement esp with my gone but not forgotten Hermes h08 … and it’s wasn’t just me other crunchers can attest the same issue. Was disappointed and quite annoyed for a bit high end movement can be lousy .. oh well! So glad Horage was able to create their own and it is at times better when you do!!
Yikes!
Wow, I hadn’t heard about the H08 issues. Never really been into Hermes. But the brand name is incredibly valuable.
Brutal going ‘high horology’ and getting disappointment like that
Brands must be so careful - a big mistake like that will haunt collectors for a generation
Super interesting brand. Great post!
Cheers Todd!
(apologies, all Decaprio toasts must be answered thusly:)
Interesting post, thx appreciated as always! 👍
Thank you Jerry! Always good to share these background stories 👍
I like their supersede gmt. Micro rotor is cool
That GMT is a great looking watch. I like the hidden hand trick so it appears like a normal 3 hander most of the time.
Re micro rotors:
I got into a longer discussion with one of the engineers on their site - I’d never appreciated how difficult it is to get the engineering correct for a good micro rotor.
Getting sufficient power from it, the off center location, the large mass required, etc.. turns out it’s a math and engineering feat to do it well 😮
Thank you Jerry! Always good to share these background stories 👍
Hi Alan,
Your dads sounds like quite a guy! Have a great day!
Cheers,
Jerry
Love this. I cannot state the virtues of this brand enough. In my view, one of the most under appreciated brand out today and they are doing things few brands, micro or conglomerate.
100% CB!
The speed of engineering and strides forward are striking in an industry that normally is glacial in pace.
Add in they decided to do it solo not using anyone else’s architecture- and it makes them quite singular.
I guess it’s like how most old and venerable brands of 1800s and early 1900s did so long ago?
Alright Alan...you have now tempted me to look at the brand more fully.
Great summary of the brand's history. I always like supporting David against Goliath. Definitely appeals to that side of me.
Show us your Horage collection (or dream collection)...you are obviously very passionate about the brand.
BTW - very impressive to have the origins of its movement in Vaucher. I'm surprised that Hermes who is a minor owner in Vaucher were able to sway the majority owners' the Sandoz Foundation to renege on its agreement with Horage.
100% CB!
The speed of engineering and strides forward are striking in an industry that normally is glacial in pace.
Add in they decided to do it solo not using anyone else’s architecture- and it makes them quite singular.
I guess it’s like how most old and venerable brands of 1800s and early 1900s did so long ago?
I bought a bunch of raffle tickets knowing I am likely going to buy a watch, so it goes towards a purchase. I am hoping they will be in Chicago at Windup.
I bought a bunch of raffle tickets knowing I am likely going to buy a watch, so it goes towards a purchase. I am hoping they will be in Chicago at Windup.
lol, I did the same!
That GMT is a great looking watch. I like the hidden hand trick so it appears like a normal 3 hander most of the time.
Re micro rotors:
I got into a longer discussion with one of the engineers on their site - I’d never appreciated how difficult it is to get the engineering correct for a good micro rotor.
Getting sufficient power from it, the off center location, the large mass required, etc.. turns out it’s a math and engineering feat to do it well 😮
Oh, i didnt know that micro rotor is such an engineering. Yema do have micro rotor at lower price. I dont think Yema use Tungsten
Alright Alan...you have now tempted me to look at the brand more fully.
Great summary of the brand's history. I always like supporting David against Goliath. Definitely appeals to that side of me.
Show us your Horage collection (or dream collection)...you are obviously very passionate about the brand.
BTW - very impressive to have the origins of its movement in Vaucher. I'm surprised that Hermes who is a minor owner in Vaucher were able to sway the majority owners' the Sandoz Foundation to renege on its agreement with Horage.
Mel! 🍻
You are so wonderfully immersed and knowledgeable in the business world of watches (and business world in general, I believe)
Always jealous of that. I was in awe seeing your insiders view at W&W.
I am not best to hypothesize on why they got shut out. I lack any business background and know less than you about various stakeholders. Maybe Sandoz really wanted Hermes and Hermes could dictate terms? Love it when you and other experts here (JC @Edge168n and Brian @Mr.Dee.Bater come to mind) speak about the murky business side of things here.
Always out of my price range, but always on the radar. They make exceptional watches. Exceeding so many watches in this price point ☝🏼
Alright Alan...you have now tempted me to look at the brand more fully.
Great summary of the brand's history. I always like supporting David against Goliath. Definitely appeals to that side of me.
Show us your Horage collection (or dream collection)...you are obviously very passionate about the brand.
BTW - very impressive to have the origins of its movement in Vaucher. I'm surprised that Hermes who is a minor owner in Vaucher were able to sway the majority owners' the Sandoz Foundation to renege on its agreement with Horage.
‘No accounting for taste’ might apply to me. Some of my favourites are / were
Tourbillon 2
Autark HV (1200 vickers hardened Ti)
Superceed Date in Ceynote Blue , jump hour hand is for me, a better solution than a GMT hand 👍
And the sadly out of production titanium T1, their first tourbillon watch. I love the look of this watch. And the lumed pip on the tourbillon! I really want something like this to come again
I briefly owned the Lensman. Ordered without ever seeing it in person. AWESOME and a very high quality watch. but, buying without seeing it first can fail. It didn’t feel quite.. avante garde/ bold (?) enough for my taste?
Couldn’t love a black dial as I’d hoped. So returned for full credit towards any upcoming watch. It was me, not them!
‘No accounting for taste’ might apply to me. Some of my favourites are / were
Tourbillon 2
Autark HV (1200 vickers hardened Ti)
Superceed Date in Ceynote Blue , jump hour hand is for me, a better solution than a GMT hand 👍
And the sadly out of production titanium T1, their first tourbillon watch. I love the look of this watch. And the lumed pip on the tourbillon! I really want something like this to come again
I briefly owned the Lensman. Ordered without ever seeing it in person. AWESOME and a very high quality watch. but, buying without seeing it first can fail. It didn’t feel quite.. avante garde/ bold (?) enough for my taste?
Couldn’t love a black dial as I’d hoped. So returned for full credit towards any upcoming watch. It was me, not them!
Oh, man! I'm so glad that you were able to do that! I was worried when you'd originally indicated that you weren't in love with it - feared that you'd end up having to sell at a loss!
Great post! I love that story, and actually got to hear it in person earlier this week at a RedBar LA meetup with @HORAGE . I can tell you that they were a big hit with everyone there. The funny thing was at Windup over the weekend their booth was so packed I could barely get a peak at the watches, but I knew I was going to get to meet them in a couple of days so I waited patiently. The crazy thing was I took NO! pictures argh! But I did buy an Autark Hv! Can't wait for it to arrive. These guys do such a great job with these watches, and the price point is really incredible for the value. I just got the email this morning they've just released the Lensman 1.2:
Great watches, great Brand!
Cheers 🍻
Great post! I love that story, and actually got to hear it in person earlier this week at a RedBar LA meetup with @HORAGE . I can tell you that they were a big hit with everyone there. The funny thing was at Windup over the weekend their booth was so packed I could barely get a peak at the watches, but I knew I was going to get to meet them in a couple of days so I waited patiently. The crazy thing was I took NO! pictures argh! But I did buy an Autark Hv! Can't wait for it to arrive. These guys do such a great job with these watches, and the price point is really incredible for the value. I just got the email this morning they've just released the Lensman 1.2:
Great watches, great Brand!
Cheers 🍻
Mike! Ah - bummer we didn't connect at Windup. Hopefully next time I'm down in your hood.
OMG - Autark HV is freaking awesome. One of my absolute favorites.
Still might buy one - I'm perpetually on the fence. Dial is beautiful as well.
The new Lensman white looks amazing. Same as before but with better lume and a brighter bolder colorway. Arg. Too many good choices. 😬 I'd post a link about it but don't want to spam the site with too much about any one brand!