Waltham Premier: an unnecessary Aurelian Review
Man is a philosophical animal. One of the first questions that we ask is “how did we get here?” That is right after “what is for lunch?” Every year new watches are released with new materials and variations on complications that fasten us to the arrow of time. If you ever get the chance, look back and see where we have come from. It will illuminate the present.
Why do a review of an eighty-year-old watch? What insight can be gleaned? Can you go buy one and have this experience? Well, yes you can (or near to it).
This Waltham Premier was made by the most important watch manufacturer in history history. Not the oldest, not the most popular, not the most famous or glamorous, the most important. Waltham, or the American Waltham Watch Company, as it was known for most of its existence, revolutionized how watches were made. Before Arthur Dennison, the founder, watches were made by hand, each part, each step. Dennison’s insight was to standardize parts so that watches could be more easily assembled and repaired. Dennison had run a box making company and had been approached about manufacturing locomotives, but his love was watches. Abraham Lincoln had a Waltham. By the end of the pocket watch era, around 1920, Waltham watches were the rival of any in the world in terms of quality and outsold any other brand. The factory process inspired Henry Ford. They had been the first watch certified for railway use. Waltham was king.
Mismanagement and a poorly timed strike brought down the king in the early 1920’s. (Offering a 10% pay decrease to all employees has a way of causing strikes.) It also didn’t help that the war effort in the First World War fell disproportionately on Waltham. Only Waltham had the factory capacity and knowhow to create fuses for ordinance used by American forces. Despite being late to adapt to the wristwatch, Waltham was still the second most popular American brand through the early 1950’s. They had always positioned themselves as the luxury pocket watch and even in the wristwatch era listed their watches at 5% more than Elgin, Bulova, or Hamilton.
This watch is from that time. The movement is a Waltham 870. Ranfft dates that movement to 1936 to 1946. The war effort for the Second World War mirrored that of the First, with American watch manufacturers re-tooling to make switches, timers, clocks for military vehicles and airplanes, and fuses. Based on my movement’s serial number this watch was made in 1940, just before America’s entry into the War. Oh, and the “Premier” part doesn’t mean that it is necessarily the high end of the Waltham line. They tagged everything with “premier” for a while. It was a bit deceiving.
So, the review part: It is lighter than any titanium watch despite the gold plating (what’s a few molecules?) It is readable at a glance. It has an easy elegance that is rarely found in a modern watch at less than a tenth of the cost of the elegance you can buy from Cartier. Note the blued hands. They are striking in the light. Thus far, it has been accurate to within a minute every 24 hours. The case is 22mm across, which is age appropriate. The lug to lug is 33mm. It is compact. The watch is very thin and hugs the wrist.
So, what’s wrong with it? Water resistance: nil, nothing, nada. Lume: no, not ever. Durability: not testing it. I would take it off to hammer a nail. Crystal: glass. Glass is brittle and scratches easily. This is one detail where modern watches can’t be bettered. Lug width is 17mm. (I hate 17mm). There is nothing further from a “strap monster”. It will look good on conventional black or brown leather straps with a gold buckle, not much more. (I need to adjust the hour hand a smidge.)
Waltham as we know it went bankrupt for the umpteenth time in 1957. It became two companies: Waltham of Switzerland (1954) and Waltham of Chicago. The latter was really the Hallmark Watch Company under the Waltham name. It’s precision instrument company exists to this day (as does Elgin’s). Even as late as the mid-seventies Waltham sold enough watches to be a part of the market in America and Asia. Under new ownership they have released watches in the not too distant past.
The old factory in Massachusetts is now lofts.
But should you reach back to the 1940’s or beyond and buy a Waltham? For less than you think, even factoring in maintenance and service costs, you can have a bit of luxury, class, and history on your wrist. It will not be an everyday watch, those days have passed this watch and its ilk. But, in a small vintage rotation it can be a showstopper. There are occasions where very few modern watches will deliver what this Waltham Premier can deliver. I will not stop preaching until each one of you owns a fragile, pretty piece of the horological past.
Waltham Premier: an unnecessary Aurelian Review
Yes
No
- Thin and light
- Elegant
- Classic Tank Case
- Blued Handset
- Makes the wearer seem much smarter and better looking
- No Lume
- No Water Resistance
- 17mm lugs
Restitutor Orbis. Aristocrat of beauty. Autocrat of time. (Trying to perfect trolling over at theescapementroom.com)
Love the hands and history lesson as always. Excellent read and what a great historical piece.
Nice review and historical info.
I live a couple towns north of Waltham and the building is quite impressive. But the lofty life comes at a high cost. I'm pretty sure the residents are, for the most part, wearing Apple watches.
The blue hands are indeed visually striking. The story of Waltham is an unfortunate American tale: Innovation/industrialization leads to growth and rising to the top of the market only for good ol' greed & mismanagement to usher in the inevitable downfall.
Great history lesson and a fun read!! Thank you for that👌
Fantastic review and history of Waltham! Thanks for posting this. I had not seen the video previously (now saved for later viewing).
Watch Angels is working on a really interesting project right now. Not many collectors know that the first waterproof watch was actually developed and produced by Waltham in 1919 - not by Rolex as Rolex's inaccurate and incessant advertising would have you believe since Rolex didn't release theirs until 1926 - SEVEN YEARS later.
Stan Czubernat has just completed an excellent book on this subject - which I cannot wait to get my hands on the final product - ordering and info here:
DEPOLLIER "WORLD'S FIRST WATERPROOF WATCH" BOOK (lrfantiquewatches.com)
Stan has also previously written about Waltham's WWI Trench watches in this excellent book:
"Waltham Trench Watches of the Great War" by Stan Czubernat (lrfantiquewatches.com)
Watch Angels will be recreating the original Waltham Field & Marine Thermo watch based on the original (which is scheduled to be auctioned after the reissue has been completed).
If you want to get information about this exciting reissue - the link is here:
Field & Marine Thermo - Watchangels
Hoping to add one of these to the collection when it is released.
I purchased previously a Watch Angels Waltham Field & Marine Dual Time Blue which, while pricey, was incredibly well made - here is an image for reference (it runs the Soprod C115 Top Grade automatic movement):
My wife says I’m slightly better looking since reading this, imagine if I actually owned one…
You are to me as Socrates was to Plato…a most learned and deliberate sage and master. For that, I open my tunic in shameful respect.
Thanks for the review, very nice. My Grandfather had three watches, all of them were Waltham. All three eventually came to me in 1982, by 2018 I had dispersed them; two to other family members and one to the museum (1918 Waltham Trench Porcelain Dial).
The blue hands are indeed visually striking. The story of Waltham is an unfortunate American tale: Innovation/industrialization leads to growth and rising to the top of the market only for good ol' greed & mismanagement to usher in the inevitable downfall.
I agree that Waltham's downfall was inevitable. However, I disagree that it was greed that caused them to try to take back money from the workers. Waltham in the 1870's had built low cost housing for its workers. It provided free daycare and the equivalent of health care (whatever that may have been). They built bowling alleys, cafeterias, and movie theaters. By 1919 they had not been selling watches for several years due to the war. When the Federal war time contracts ended they had to retool and reboot their watch business. They slashed management pay but could not get the rank and file to help.
As an important American corporation and watch company they had an amazing 100 year run. As a brand they lasted a bit longer. Companies have life cycles, just like living things.
Fantastic review and history of Waltham! Thanks for posting this. I had not seen the video previously (now saved for later viewing).
Watch Angels is working on a really interesting project right now. Not many collectors know that the first waterproof watch was actually developed and produced by Waltham in 1919 - not by Rolex as Rolex's inaccurate and incessant advertising would have you believe since Rolex didn't release theirs until 1926 - SEVEN YEARS later.
Stan Czubernat has just completed an excellent book on this subject - which I cannot wait to get my hands on the final product - ordering and info here:
DEPOLLIER "WORLD'S FIRST WATERPROOF WATCH" BOOK (lrfantiquewatches.com)
Stan has also previously written about Waltham's WWI Trench watches in this excellent book:
"Waltham Trench Watches of the Great War" by Stan Czubernat (lrfantiquewatches.com)
Watch Angels will be recreating the original Waltham Field & Marine Thermo watch based on the original (which is scheduled to be auctioned after the reissue has been completed).
If you want to get information about this exciting reissue - the link is here:
Field & Marine Thermo - Watchangels
Hoping to add one of these to the collection when it is released.
I purchased previously a Watch Angels Waltham Field & Marine Dual Time Blue which, while pricey, was incredibly well made - here is an image for reference (it runs the Soprod C115 Top Grade automatic movement):
You could have written this post from memory.
That's great looking watch.
Being the stuffy, aloof old world european that I am, a part of me wants to twist my handlebar moustache while mumbling "Oh, how typical!" - but then again, it's fascinating to read how these efforts in standardization enable me to afford a car and have my SW200 repaired by people who don't work for ETA or Sellita. 😅
Oh, and these old Walthams and Elgins are a treat for the eye. Their modern spiritual successors like Fears make you sell a kidney for this level of effortless elegance. Thanks for the enjoyable read, Aurelian
Beautiful love letter to your Waltham❤️
You could have written this post from memory.
That's great looking watch.
I learn everytime you post these fantastic threads - please keep them coming. I really appreciate the contributions to enhance our collective knowledge.
Thanks for the kind words on the watch!
Fascinating and illuminating as always. I had never heard of Waltham as a watch brand before you mentioned them previously. The name caught my eye as I was born and bred in Waltham Abbey Essex ( refer to Google maps). What is now the parish church was once the largest Abbey in England before Henry the Eighth did his thing following his spat with Rome.
Nothing to do with warches sorry bit interesting none the less! I know lots of American towns and counties take their name from British locations. I wonder if Waltham was one of them?
Great post !!
Fascinating and illuminating as always. I had never heard of Waltham as a watch brand before you mentioned them previously. The name caught my eye as I was born and bred in Waltham Abbey Essex ( refer to Google maps). What is now the parish church was once the largest Abbey in England before Henry the Eighth did his thing following his spat with Rome.
Nothing to do with warches sorry bit interesting none the less! I know lots of American towns and counties take their name from British locations. I wonder if Waltham was one of them?
Without a doubt. In New England (well, there's a clue) most place names are directly taken from the old country or Native American languages. This is really true in most of the Eastern Seaboard.
Beautiful! I've posted this watch here before, but that Waltham looks like a lovelier contemporary of my deceased grandfather's old watch (Wittnauer). Those blued hands are awesome.
Great history lesson, too. Thanks!
As for mine, like that Waltham... yeah, it's dainty; I'll probably give it to my niece at some point. I doubt my nephew will be into it.
Beautiful! I've posted this watch here before, but that Waltham looks like a lovelier contemporary of my deceased grandfather's old watch (Wittnauer). Those blued hands are awesome.
Great history lesson, too. Thanks!
As for mine, like that Waltham... yeah, it's dainty; I'll probably give it to my niece at some point. I doubt my nephew will be into it.
My Wittnauer says hello.
Your grandfather's watch is lovely. It has a very interesting case/lugs. Someone should appreciate it and wear it.
Oh, I wear it! But not often. My watches can easily get banged up at my job, so it’s more of a special occasion watch. Plus, I don’t feel like wearing gold too often…
My Wittnauer says hello.
Your grandfather's watch is lovely. It has a very interesting case/lugs. Someone should appreciate it and wear it.
oh, and my grandpa signed the inside of the case back, so I definitely appreciate it!
Now that is class. Classy watch on a classy guy. Thanks, @Aurelian.
One day, once I've soaked up as much vintage lore as I can from the Aurelian databank, I will own a vintage Waltham, Wittnauer or Gruen.
Really interesting review @Aurelian, I had no idea of the importance of this brand. I feel like you should run their marketing dept. I mean they can go right back into mainstream just by pushing them as Abraham Lincoln's watch a la moonwatch style.
My only challenge with the pics was peaking through the equally impressive bushel of armhair to see the watch behind it :)
Really interesting review @Aurelian, I had no idea of the importance of this brand. I feel like you should run their marketing dept. I mean they can go right back into mainstream just by pushing them as Abraham Lincoln's watch a la moonwatch style.
My only challenge with the pics was peaking through the equally impressive bushel of armhair to see the watch behind it :)
Lincoln received it immediately after giving the Gettysburg Address.
When the Hairy Wrist Badge dropped I made sure that they gave to me. It is so white that it doesn't appear in person quite like it does in wrist shots.
thx for the review, really love the history lesson here
Excellent story! I own a couple of these pieces of history. Sad to say they don't run anymore. I still keep them in a drawer and every once in a while I take them out and tinker with them to see if I can get them to run. I have one that runs for a day then goes on vacation for a while. Then a month later I can wind it again and the same thing I get a day. LOL They are beautiful yet ugly pieces of art and history. There is nothing wrong with a review on a great icon. Thank you for that.
The blued hands and gold are gorgeous! Thank you for the history lesson.
Excellent article. Educational. I love the timepiece. Thank you.