What Are Your Horological Deal Breakers?
Imagine this. A friend lusted after a Vacheron Constantin Overseas Blue Dial for years. He loved the brand and it's heritage. Finally they released a watch he had to have and after a long wait got the call, he loved it, took it, over the moon! However after only one week he was thinking about selling it.
He'd paid so much and it just wasn't perfect, or over the threshold of what he could be happy enough with, the main issue was the date window. Not that it was there, he was resigned to that. It was that it was white and didn't match that amazing blue dial they spent so much time creating.
He eventually sold it, slightly heartbroken.
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Stu
Long term watch addict / nerd. 5 watches are too many, and a thousand's not enough.
Lucerne, Switzerland
Member since
Last active: 2 hrs ago
7.10” / 18.03 cm
...and somehow he didn't spot that huge "flaw" that before buying?
The wart over a date window. It says, look, we designed a date too small to read, and we couldn't be bothered to redesign it so we added a lump to the crystal and called it a feature.
I just realised I need to choose 'other'. 😜 Date window is not a deal breaker for me, but must blend in. WR is not a deal breaker, only depends on the watch, generally I do want >100M. So my 'other' is probably plain old comfort. I like a watch to not be too heavy and a good bracelet or wear well on other options.
...and somehow he didn't spot that huge "flaw" that before buying?
The wart over a date window. It says, look, we designed a date too small to read, and we couldn't be bothered to redesign it so we added a lump to the crystal and called it a feature.
He had slight issues with it, but had wanted the watch so much for so long that he thought he could live with it.
Mine is small movements on huge cases, especially if it has a display caseback like this:
https://www.ablogtowatch.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/hamilton-watches-big-pilot-back1.jpg
It really depends on the watch. I might be a little forgiving with specs if the watch looks good, often the deal breakers tend to be looks for me in terms of numeral choice, color, and certain design features (bezel, crown, dial, bracelet type, etc).
Mine is small movements on huge cases, especially if it has a display caseback like this:
https://www.ablogtowatch.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/hamilton-watches-big-pilot-back1.jpg
I hear you, I could also add display backs with movements you really don't want to see. 👌
Having a Cyclops is my only deal breaker.
Those first two options are so mysterious.
Thickness &/or top heavy feeling.
4:30 date windows
*Round indices* just really don't like 'em. Dunno why 🤔
*Date windows* pointless complication for anyone who has a functioning memory & look crap (pointer date less offensive, as is 4.30 or any that blend in or can be ignored)
*Integrated bracelet / Gerald Genta 70's on designs* Emperor's New Clothes. Just don't get it, fugly and limited.
I'll stop there 😂
A hideous 4:30 date window.
*Round indices* just really don't like 'em. Dunno why 🤔
*Date windows* pointless complication for anyone who has a functioning memory & look crap (pointer date less offensive, as is 4.30 or any that blend in or can be ignored)
*Integrated bracelet / Gerald Genta 70's on designs* Emperor's New Clothes. Just don't get it, fugly and limited.
I'll stop there 😂
“Functioning memory” 🤣 mine is terrible and I still don’t want one. Talk about how to ruin a dial with a dated complication 💪🏻
When I hear stories like this I find it hilarious peoples gripes are a non matched date wheel? Cmon guys that hasn’t even been a standard for the enthusiast watch community for that long. I don’t remember people complaining about it up until the last 5 years may be less. Sounds like an excuse for buyers remorse.
The only potential dealbreaker for me is not liking the watch! 🤷🏽♂️
Size is the big decider for me either too big or too small is a no no. And as above cut off numerals is just lazy watch design.
I like a cyclops, I don't like a ceramic bezel insert, I prefer acrylic crystals and folded end-links and pressed clasps. 100m WR is all I need so my deal breakers are rarely spec related.
I don't do blue dials. I'd think really hard before buying another white / cream / silver dialled watch 'cause e when I do I find once they're in my watch box I rarely wear them.
Size is a big one for me. I struggle with anything under 38mm (vintage being the exception) due to my 20cm / 7.75in wrist but I prefer smaller watches so anything beyond 42mm may not be for me either.
Otherwise its case by case, my taste isn't static.
👍
Sapphire crystal is mandatory for me, it's an absolute 100% dealbreaker. It's 2024, we have the technology to never have scratched crystals again, come on, what are we doing?
It is my preference, but I don't know if it is a deal breaker, I think I am maybe too gentle on my watches?
Skeleton and open work watches just dont work for me.
I had a nice skeleton, only problem was I couldn't differentiate the hands half the time so sold it.
For example, no Miyota or...?
For instance, movements that have a reputation for not being regulated, like Seiko. I just got a parody watch and a new Seiko, both sutomatics. From a precision standpoint, the parady watch runs rings around the Seiko for precision over 24 hours. Go figure.
That makes no sense to me at all. All the indices are white, including the big one at 9 o'clock, so color matching the date would make it look even more unbalanced. This sounds to me like like an unconsidered kneejerk OMG it's not color matched! 😱 Color matching is not in and of itself necessarily a good thing.
For the record, I want a date, and take a date whenever I can get it. I don't quite need it, so it's not a dealbreaker. However, I just got two watches without dates (a Sartory Billard and an Atelier Wen). I can see that dates would spoil the aesthetic, but I find myself constantly looking at my watch for a date that isn't there.
You make a good point re. the date wheel in this case, but in the flesh it does sort of stick out.
I'm with your buddy, it's INSANE to me that haute horology companies can make watches for sale for 10s of thousands of dollars and sell them without matching the color of the datewheel to the dial
It's pure laziness on the part of the brands. "This watch that watch" on YouTube has a recent video he put out where he talks a bit about he reasons why brands can get away with this kind of stuff but it basically boils down to monopoly and oligopoly behavior. We don't tolerate it from microbrands because the name on the dial doesn't matter and so they have to compete in the market and actually be good
Meanwhile heritage brands put out some straight trash white datewheel and the sheeple line up to give them their money. SAD
I'm with your buddy, it's INSANE to me that haute horology companies can make watches for sale for 10s of thousands of dollars and sell them without matching the color of the datewheel to the dial
It's pure laziness on the part of the brands. "This watch that watch" on YouTube has a recent video he put out where he talks a bit about he reasons why brands can get away with this kind of stuff but it basically boils down to monopoly and oligopoly behavior. We don't tolerate it from microbrands because the name on the dial doesn't matter and so they have to compete in the market and actually be good
Meanwhile heritage brands put out some straight trash white datewheel and the sheeple line up to give them their money. SAD
Do you think that on some level all these top brands stop short of perfection just a bit too often? Is it to have mad collectors like us wanting more and more searching for that one watch? Or is that one perfect watch simply impossible? I don't think so, as so many watches are almost perfect except for one tiny easily fixed detail. 😜
Poor lume. How can my 200usd SKX outshine my 950usd (retail) SPB317 to such an extent? My biggest gripe with more expensive, more modern seikos
There are so many... but besides having the right size, weight, proportions, pleasing and functional design, and price, it's an unstraightened 4:30 date. It's the worst offender of them all.
I also don't get it. If there's a need to put a date outside the indexes, why not 3:30? Or 5:30 vertical? Or just straighten it, like on Seiko Alpinist GMT or Sinn 556a.
Case thickness in proportion to diameter and lug to lug.
Water resistance (if lower than 100m it starts to be a deal breaker)
Massive lug to lug on a <40mm watch
Odd lug sizes
Water resistance (if lower than 100m it starts to be a deal breaker)
Massive lug to lug on a <40mm watch
Odd lug sizes
💯💪
a few dealbreakers : cyclops over the date window, less than 100 m of depth rating, "open heart" dials, integrated bracelets, non round bezels, to start with
I think that from my perspective every watch has its specific reason why I would be happy to own one or not it's never only date or only wr