First Time Watch Buyer? Overwhelmed!

A year ago I lost my watch. (a cheap Micheal Kors Chronograph) Losing this watch made prompted me to search for a new watch. As any person would I went to YouTube and asked the search bar something along the lines of: “what what happened should I buy?” I was greeted with a Teddy Baldassarre video and over the next few hours realized there was much more to the world of watches than cheap, department store timepieces. 
          The last year has been an enjoyable waste of time as I have watched far too many hours of YouTube learning about watches.

           I think I’m finally ready to buy. The only question is which watch? I hope everyone out their can help me? Here’s my thought processes.

  1. I’m currently in the process of joining the Army so the watch needs to have durability to a certain extent. (field watches or sport watches)
  2.  Some people like vintage, (And that’s fine they’re certainly cool in their own respect) personally it’s not for me. So no faux patina or other very vintage looks.
  3.  Price cap is about $4500 (price, not MSRP). Obviously there are ways to work around that. Chrono-24, etc.
  4.  Final dilemma: I‘ve considered both the Hamilton KFA as well as the Omega Seamaster diver pro. 300m current gen. Obviously they are at different ends of the price spectrum. I’ve always wanted the Omega but thought maybe I should buy the Hamilton but now I question. would I be discontent with the Hamilton or would I always be lusting for the Omega?
  5.  Also I’m not really interested in quartz. (no disrespect)

I’ve considered the Tudor Pelagos, North Flag and the new Ranger, (on the fence if it is to vintage for me) Omega Seamaster and Aqua terra, Rolex Explorers are awesome but out of price range, Hamilton Khaki‘s, Panerai Luminor Marina (Pam 111), IWC Mk 20 (kind of a stretch), Oris Aquis, Sinn 556/856. 
 

It doesn’t have to be something listed above I just need suggestions!
 

Maybe I should‘t even get into watches?

All that being said what should I buy!!??

Help!

Reply
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See my profile. I just posted my 8 favorite tips for what to look for in a watch. 

I'd recommend starting at a couple hundred bucks to get a feel for what you like before spending big bucks. Size and comfort are really important and often the general recommendations you find online aren't what work for you.

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For example it took me a while to figure out that I really hate case backs that aren't flat enough because they create a pressure spot. That wasn't written anywhere online or in watch reviews etc.

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Oh well. What does joining the army mean? Joining, training and seeing action? Or sitting in some office after training? I got an Aqua Terra and a Planet Ocean, and i would not wear them for most rugged activity. Not even for shooting at a range. For that i got a sub 100€ Vostok. But if you are set on using a more sophisticated watch, that's ok as well. 

Did you check out Doxa? Their 600T is one tough watch, and it's not that expensive. 

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I will let the veterans here answer the following: can a new recruit wear anything that isn’t issued? I ask because my nephew is currently in the marines and when he joined he could not wear a watch. Army might be different, but personally I’d get a G-Shock, Apple Ultra, or Garmin Fenix.

Then get a nice watch for when you aren’t in the field.

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Maybe someone with a military background would be better positioned to chime in, but I would want to do some fact-finding on how appropriate any of these watches would be for your use case.  

Will you actually be wearing it to do army things?  

Or (maybe and?) do you want it to seem like it could do those things, while in reality you're going to wear a GShock 95% of the time?

I'm rambling.  Get a Sinn U50.  😉

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So I typically wear my Luminox Turtleback while in the field, however I agree with a few individuals on this thread. Are you going to BCT? if you are I'd hold off. even if they allow you to wear a watch, you'll certainly draw attention to yourself and that's not what you are there for. After you get to your first assignment, I'd recommend basing your choice on your MOS. If you're combat arms, you are going to want something very durable and darker in color for functional reasons. if you are a paper pusher or computer person I'd still say durable because your a soldier first, but there is a little more room to get something nicer.    

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Good luck with the Army, thanks for planning to serve. 

I do agree you might want to check comfort before you drop big bucks. I’m sure an Omega Seamaster 300 would hold up, its a tough watch. I’d get one without a He escape valve - one less thing to break and one less entry point for dirt. The Pelagos should be tough too, but I’m not sure they are though their initial quality issues as yet. Marathon makes a good tough field watch if you like their style. 

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If you are going into the Army and want a rugged watch in that price range, I'd look at Sinn. I'd save the Omega's of the world for when you get out and can treat your timepieces to a little less rugged conditions.

No shame in going small as @CitizenKale said. Get a G-Shock or something and see what you like. I would not go for a watch in the $500-700 range, like the Hamilton, because if you don't like it, you will be kicking yourself that you could have put that money to something else. But a $100-200 G-Shock shouldn't cause you much buyer's remorse and it's fitting for the environment you will be putting it into.

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Personally I think the Ranger is great, but I’m biased 😁 

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Honestly the first brands that pop into mind for you are something from Marathon or Sinn. Then take some of the leftover funds and get a GShock for days at the range and more impactful activities. 

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Why just the one watch? 😉 

With that budget you could get a 3 watch collection to cover everything. 

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I agree with a lot what is said by others about just trying a cheaper watch first before spending a lot of money. That said, if you're allowed to even wear a non issued watch, I would go for a Marathon watch. Tons of military history and options here an build like a tank. Good luck!

https://eu.marathonwatch.com/collections/large-sar-41mm 

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First watch, physical activity, unpredictable environments, more important things to focus on than setting and winding... Get a sub-$500 lightweight self-winding watch with at least 100m water resistance and a sapphire crystal. That'll narrow your choices down for you at least.

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I think that Oris you mentioned will do just fine.  The Oris ProDiver would be my pick but it is a very large watch, the Aquis line is generally a smaller size.

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I'd recommend a Marathon GSAR/MSAR, or a steel GPM. 

Barracks and shiny things don't always go well together... The Marathons are well made, but not flashy. 

If you weren't opposed to quartz I'd recommend the TSAR, because of simple, yet durable quartz movement. 

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With your budget, you can get the Omega and the Hamilton. 

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Each and every one of you mentioning G Shocks…

You’re 100% correct. DW5600 and forget it.

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We know only the part of your situation: we know that you are joining the army and you like entry level luxury sport mechanical watches. We don't know the actual activity you plan to do with the watch on, what is your wrist size, what is your financial state and will you be able to comfortably maintain the watch. I see that a lot in your choices was dictated by the YT videos rather than personal research. If your situation is that one where you have to crawl in mud, force rivers, shoot, do martial arts, jump from a plane - then no mechanical watch is guaranteed to handle that to a full degree without deviation in accuracy or deteriorating. That's why there are so many suggestions of a G-Shock. Again if it is a watch for hyperactive lifestyle but you don't like resin watches look into quartz beaters (Marathon, Citizen, Seiko PADI, CWC, Casio Duro, Bertucci). If you really want a mechanical piece then still Citizen divers, Vostok, Seiko divers or field watches. Hamilton Khaki is a top line in terms of price I would pay for the watch of this activity. So that losing or breaking the watch will not be the end of the world for you. And then buy a nice Omega Seamaster 300 professional (if you wrist is bigger than 7 inches) and put it in a safe place until you return from army or move to the office. 

P.S. Never even spend your last money on a watch! Never.

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I think you are well educated on this topic and can’t go wrong with the Sinns maybe even the U50.

the pelagos won’t disappoint either tho 

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Obviously, there are numerous ways to approach this question. Based only on the selection provided: I'd go with a watch that can do everything. Great movement, solid build quality, and something can outlast a 'battle'. Tudor BlackBay, Tudor BlackBay 58, IWC Spitfire. No date complication makes these more robust and durable. I'm curious how you feel about these. 

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ManuallyWound

Lief, great post, and I love your line of thinking.  As a 30 yr vet of both the DoD and Intel Community, my humble recco is to aim low right now.  I assume you are headed to some form of basic training, followed by a specialized combat training course. The very last thing you want to do is surrender your $4K luxury field watch to some basic training quartermaster who's going to shove it in a ziplock bag with a whole bunch of other crap and toss it thoughtlessly onto a metal shelf with 200 other people's stuff.  Then, consider that you Army folk like to jump out of perfectly good airplanes and stuff like that.  So...that said, right now you need a Jocko-inspired GShock or Timex Triathlon...something that will literally take a beating and not break the bank if the wind takes it as you dive out the side of a C-130.  

Now - let's advance the clock a year or so. You've settled at your base. You have a routine that you have a little more control over.  Then it's time to invest.  I love the field watch idea.  So here's my recco - for day to day when you're at work - the Hamilton Field Murph.  It's beautiful.  Rugged.  A total strap monster...and looks great on a NATO.  AND, it's under $1K.  Now you have about $3500 to play with.  You head to Theo and Harris and pick up a vintage Omega or something super cool to wear in your dress uniform during special occasions.  And when it's time to jump out of an airplane or eat snakes...you still have your Gshock/Timex...which are super cool in their own right.

Cheers, and thank you for choosing to serve. No greater honor.

I was just talking to some friends about this, I never drank the kool aid enough to understand why jump out of a plane. Its just not practical in todays day and age. Ill gladly be a leg. Also love the list, I may use for my own personal endeavors. 

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What about one of the quartz Sinn models like a UX?

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I always fo d the G-Shock thing funny, I see far more Timex or other Casios than G-Shocks. 

I remember the geardo on my Afghanistan tour getting laughed at for wearing a giant G-Shock of some variety.  

@Catskinner nailed it when he advised to not stand out too much. 

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Buy the Seamaster and get an everyday quartz beater for duty use like a marathon or a Nite (MX10 or Hawk)

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KristianG

I always fo d the G-Shock thing funny, I see far more Timex or other Casios than G-Shocks. 

I remember the geardo on my Afghanistan tour getting laughed at for wearing a giant G-Shock of some variety.  

@Catskinner nailed it when he advised to not stand out too much. 

Not standing out is something you learn to get right within 15 seconds of wearing a uniform for the first time.  I can't remember what I wore back then but it might have been a cheap Casio.

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I would suggest you to take a look to Longines especially for 2 specific models:

First one is the ultrachron which is extremely precise and durable:

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And the following ones are in the same model range, spirit collection which are again extremely precise, reliable and durable. 

(3 different size options, titanium or ss cases, variaty of dial color options which may fit perfectly with an army suit 😎)

Longines LONGINES SPIRIT Automatic Titanium Watch - L3.811.1.53.6
Longines LONGINES SPIRIT ZULU TIME Automatic Stainless steel and ceramic bezel Watch - L3.812.4.63.
Longines LONGINES SPIRIT Automatic Stainless steel Watch - L3.810.4.03.6

The prices are somewhere between the cheapest and the most expensive watches you're looking for and you can find/buy any of them immediately. For the price value ratio, i still believe that spirit collection is absolutely is on top of the list.

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iforgettopee

+1 for the Ranger. All brushed finishing, EZ read dial, quick adjust clasp, no fiddly bezel to mess with, cosc movement, amazing price. I would vote for the BB58, but it has polished sides and does not have tool-less quick adjust. Pelagos39 is great too, if you can get one. Pelagos42 is a chunky boy that is more likely to get in the way imo. 

I also have a Tudor Black Bay Bronze.  It's a bigger watch, but nothing polished, and once it gets a nice patina it has a very warm, worn in look that I really love.  Wearing mine today!  

https://www.watchcrunch.com/wruw/2022-11-01#comment-212981 

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Thanks a lot for everyone opinion and guidance. I can’t say how much I appreciate the input. Looks like I need to make a pole.

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Enlisted? Commissioned?

What branch and what will your job be?

Honestly, I want to recommend that you get a cheap G-Shock, but will be able to give you a more detailed explanation if you provide some more info.

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NeoWahNah

Enlisted? Commissioned?

What branch and what will your job be?

Honestly, I want to recommend that you get a cheap G-Shock, but will be able to give you a more detailed explanation if you provide some more info.

Enlisted, infantry. Yeah, everyone says G shock, but I don’t see the appeal it’s just a little computer for telling time as opposed to engineering feet that can look good as well, hardly the wisest thing to beat up a watch but I think tools should be used.

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LiefSmith

Enlisted, infantry. Yeah, everyone says G shock, but I don’t see the appeal it’s just a little computer for telling time as opposed to engineering feet that can look good as well, hardly the wisest thing to beat up a watch but I think tools should be used.

Enlisted and Infantry means that you'll have VERY little use for a luxury time piece.

  1. Someone will ALWAYS tell you where and when you need to be there. (I promise)
  2. I recommend a G-shock or something similar because you're going to be out in the field ALOT and will likely want something that can get banged up, is durable, light, and reliable. If you're not out in the field, you'll be training, usually on your elbows and knees. 
  3. Sucks to say but you will lose things either because you forgot or because your stuff occasionally grows legs and walks away. No need to tempt fate.
  4. Anything other than black will stand out. Last thing you want is to stand out in the Infantry. Only exceptions: you're a PT stud, you can shoot expert from every position with ease, or you're squared away ALL the time. 

My recommendation, get a cheap digital watch for your training. Once you get to your permanent duty station, you can decide if buying a luxury time piece is right for you. Oh and once you join, you'll have access to AAFES, which is a military retailer. AAFES just had a 20% discount on Omega, Longines, and Hamilton. 

This past weekend, they were offering an additional 10% off for all brands except Omega if you purchased with a Star Card. And you get an additional 10% if you apply for and get accepted for 24 hours. So it would have been possible to walk away with a 30%-40% discount. They usually run a promo like this once or twice a year. 

Your money, you know best, but just sharing my 2 cents. 

Best of luck to you! Have fun and be safe!