Battle of Watches: The One Watch Collection
The one-watch collection. For some, this is the highest achievement in watch collecting, to bond with one watch that could do it all. This represent an everyday time piece that you can bring to any occasions and any where.
As a new watch enthusiast, this idea fascinated me and as I search to find the "ONE" watch, I came across polarizing opinions but also commonalities between the watches. It is usually an automatic movement, 3 hander with/without a date, "simple" dials to fit both dressy and sport look, and a minimum of 100 meter of water resistance.
In this category, we are often presented with 3 excellent choices from 3 differing brands to choose from namely: Rolex Explorer I, Omega Aqua Terra, and the Grand Seiko SBGA211 "Snowflake".
Rolex Explorer I
A simple, purpose built 3 hander marketed as the watch that first conquered Mount Everest. The new 36 mm watch is built to be a watch that fits in both banquet and beaches. While it looks simple, the design will grow on you and reveals its timeless and elegant appeal.
The watch is powered by the Rolex caliber 3230 equipped with their newest new chronergy movement that they have developed from the traditional swiss lever escapement. The movement beats at 28,800 bph with around 70 hours of power reserve and have the superlative chronometer accuracy of ±2 second per day.
MSRP: $6,550
Omega Aqua Terra
Born from the Seamaster line, the Aqua Terra is a watch that is engineered to conquer the sea. It is a watch that could be used to snorkel or a party in a yacht. The placement of the date on the 6'o-clock position, the second hands that perfectly points to the 60 second markings, and the low-key "teak" horizontal pattern encapsulate both elegant yet tool watch quality.
The Aqua Terra is equipped with the Omega Caliber 8900 co-axial movement that beats 25 200 bph. It has 60 hours of power reserve and is METAS certified master chronometer that can withstand 15 000 gauss and have a water resistant of 150 meters.
MSRP: $5,700
Grand Seiko SBGA211 "Snowflake"
The snowflake differs from the others with the textured dial that represented the snowflake, the highly Zaratsu polished titanium case, and the spring-drive movement. If you look closely to the seconds hand, it glides smoothly, revealing the "nature of time" that does not tick but moves quietly behind the scenes. This watch is elegantly crafted based on tradition but is subtle to also fit a sporty occasion.
This watch is equipped with the 9R65 spring-drive movement that combines the best of automatic power and quartz accuracy. The 9R65 boast 72 hour of power reserve with an accuracy of ±1 second per day.
MSRP: $5,800
There are no wrong choices here. It ultimately depends on you, your personality, your style and your preferences.
So the question is: Which one will you choose? or are there any other timepieces that should be considered?
🇮🇩🇭🇰 New watch enthusiast & accuracy snob from Indonesia! Want to learn more about horology with fellow enthusiast! Proud owner of Seiko SARB033 & Casio GW-M5610
On the budget end, I think the Longines Conquest is a great one-watch collection. I looks like a classy dress watch for the office or events. It has 300m of water resistance so you can actually swim or dive with it without worry. It comes in 39, 41 and 43mm so you choose the perfect size for your wrist.
I have a 36mm Explorer but if I had to chose one watch to wear exclusively, it would be my BPFF Bathyscaphe.
I am glad I don't need a 1 watch collection because this is a hard choice.
For me, however, I would have to take what is objectively, the worst one. The Rolex. The highest quality watch of the bunch, in every category, is the Grand Seiko, closely followed by the Omega, with the Rolex a distant 3rd.
but this is like comparing a superbike from Italy, a superbike from Japan, and a Harley Davidson, and saying if you could only own one of them, what would you take. Many people would take the Harley, due to its history, its coolness factor, and knowing that what makes it amazing, will be equally amazing in 30 years.
The good news, is if you can afford to own any of these, and you are on this site (a watch geek), then you most likely can own more than one, and you don't have to choose. You can have your superbike and Harley :)
Of these 3, I'd say the closest to a one-watch collection will be the Explorer. The only shortcoming (aside from relative unobtanium), would be how Rolex doesn't really design its watches to play friendly with straps, the latter of which is something that makes watches versatile as a one-watch collection you could dress up and down.
I personally believe the closest watch that comes to this is the Black Bay 58, and it doesn't surprise me how big a fan base this has grown ever since its launch!
PS: I am NOT a 1-watch guy, and I'd rather not be into watches if forced to become one LOL.
I think that if you only have one watch in your collection, it should have a date display.
Since the Explorer doesn't have a date, and the Omega is a bit colorful for a warch suitable for any occasion, I will choose the GS. But I have none experience with spring drive movements.
My choice for a do it all piece would be the Sinn 556i, well made, 20bar WR, classy and a strap monster. It's a watch suitable for any occasion, the strap you put it on would dress it up or down.
(Picture from the official website of Sinn watches)
If I had to cut to one
I have de Omega Seamaster AquaTerra and I love it. It’s a great great watch.
thats a tough choice. but i think i would go with black dial explorer 1. on the more affordable category i always love sinn 556 with metal bracelet
The Explorer for me. If the invisible waitlist decides to finally pick me lol
I would take the Grand Seiko, but would prefer an automatic over the spring drive
Rolex Explorer by a very slim margin for me on this one, because its bracelet has quick adjustment and its dial has lume.
I still don’t understand the appeal of trying to whittle down everything into one watch, especially considering how varied the watch market is in terms of style and functionality. It’s also the antithesis of collecting, it’s settling. For the price of one of these you could get 2-4 really interesting pieces that will satisfy you more, that is what watch collecting should be about.
Perhaps I’m on the wrong forum…
I still don’t understand the appeal of trying to whittle down everything into one watch, especially considering how varied the watch market is in terms of style and functionality. It’s also the antithesis of collecting, it’s settling. For the price of one of these you could get 2-4 really interesting pieces that will satisfy you more, that is what watch collecting should be about.
Perhaps I’m on the wrong forum…
I agree with you, if you're drawn to collecting, you're likely never going to be happy with one watch for all things.
In my mind the only way to go from a collector/enthusiast, to a one watch person is:
Otherwise, you're likely to sell down to being a "one watch guy", then start adding more watches over time to fill specific roles... Ending up back where you were before.
Based on the options listed, I'd take the AT, as Rolex and GS styling do nothing for me.
I agree with you, if you're drawn to collecting, you're likely never going to be happy with one watch for all things.
In my mind the only way to go from a collector/enthusiast, to a one watch person is:
Otherwise, you're likely to sell down to being a "one watch guy", then start adding more watches over time to fill specific roles... Ending up back where you were before.
Based on the options listed, I'd take the AT, as Rolex and GS styling do nothing for me.
Exactly - it’s a visceral reaction that only brings you back to where you were before, especially if what you liked was collecting varied watches.
Of the three, probably the Rolex, but it is the best of a selection of very boring watches.
I am also not advocating for a minimum number of watches per collection, but a collection is more than one watch right? I am also not begrudging those who wish to try and find that one do-it-all watch, but I find it ironic that they may have to choose from a number of watches that could fit the bill, or go through ownership of a number a watches in order to find it. Therefore that one watch does not exist right?
I also do not have a magic number as I have well over 50, but in hindsight I think I might already have my core 3-4 (Milgauss, 1950s VC Patrimony, 1960s Omega Chronostop, Corum Bubble Lucifer), and everything else is just dabbling in the madness.
The GS. The attention detail, finishing, and innovation makes it a clear winner in my mind (although I would be more than happy to ever own any of them, being honest).
For those not quite financially in the realm of obtaining a watch > a few thousand dollars, I think the Longines Conquest is a great one-watch collection option. 300m WR, date, dressy and sporty, a really great movement, and for those who don’t care about mechanical and would like to save some more money, comes in quartz as well.
I understand how people can narrow things down to a one watch collection--I just don't understand how they can not consider a bezel-less watch. I sold my beater diver a bit back (it a Mako II that was just too heavy), and now I'm really bummed I don't have that functionality in my collection. It's made me reconsider the Explorer or the AT as viable GADA/one watch collection options.
I understand how people can narrow things down to a one watch collection--I just don't understand how they can not consider a bezel-less watch. I sold my beater diver a bit back (it a Mako II that was just too heavy), and now I'm really bummed I don't have that functionality in my collection. It's made me reconsider the Explorer or the AT as viable GADA/one watch collection options.
I see what you mean! I feel like I am a two watch person, in that having too many watches stresses me out (which I guess is weird). my daily watch does not have a bezel, but I often wish I had a bezel to fidget with during the day or when timing little things.
an alternative one-watch collection could be the 62MAS grey dial Seiko SPB143, or the Sinn 104. Both have bezels and could be dressed up or down as needed.
I think the Aqua Terra is an incredible value. I would probably go with that one of the three.
Since I only own the Explorer out of the three, I would have to say the Rolex. Out of the other two it would be the Omega Aqua Terra. Somehow Grand Seiko does not do it for me. Last weekend I was at a Grand Seiko boutique, but it just does not tickle…
The Explorer is such a great watch though:
However, to address the theme of this topic: I would pick a watch with GMT and date complication, if I were to select only one single watch. The contemporary Rolex GMT-Master II is a great option, but currently very pricey. As an alternative I find the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean GMT to be great as well:
The Rolex has a considerably slimmer case design though and would definitely be more suitable in many office like or suit wearing situations.
I'm tempted to throw this in the ring instead of the snowflake. The dial colour is subtle enough it could pass as silver most of the time, but it has enough colour to make it work in a more casual/ flamboyant environment. 100m water resistant. Titanium, so it wears light and comfortable for everyday use. ( Unless you like to feel the heft of a watch).
I've had an AT in the past and a snowflake, I no longer have them which tells me that they would not be a good one watch for me, as they didn't make the cut in a collection. If I had to pick from the three listed, just by elimination it would be the explorer.
Rolex OP would be a good alternative to the Explorer.
I also think the Cartier Santos would be a great contender. Dressy but sporty, easy (but proprietary) strap swapping, a ton of horological heritage.
While the Explorer 1 is probably my favorite watch, I don’t think it’s the best one watch collection of the three. It’s an incredible daily wear, but imo it’s not quite as dressy as the AT which in turn is not quite as dressy as the Snowflake.
I think a one watch collection should take you from shorts and a t-shirt all the way to black tie and while the Snowflake may not be the perfect watch for black tie it looks less out of place than the other two.
Fortunately, we’re not constrained by this one watch rule :)
I have an AT in my collection and I could easily have it as my one watch for everyday wear. I wear it in the office and I wear it with jeans and a T-shirt. In fact, of the 11 watches in my collection, it's on my wrist 50-60% of the time. So it's as close as I get to a GADA watch. That said, I couldn't make it my only watch for reasons some have already stated, namely....
1. It doesn't have a bezel and I really do like that timing function when I'm cooking, for instance.
2. I would be nervous wearing it for things like bike riding. That's what my two G-shocks are for.
3. Despite 150m of water resistance, I would be nervous swimming in it, especially if it hadn't been serviced in a few years. That's what my Seiko divers (and G-Shock's) are for.
As most of us I also play this mind game for myself very often. For me the Explorer I is close to the one watch collection, but I would prefer the OP39 white. It's on the edge between dress and sports watch. I can wear at the beach as well as with a suit. It is not blingy or loud. And from a Rolex marketing perspective: it is the Essence :)
I think that all three of these would make a great choice as an everyday wear watch that's versatile enough to fit many situations. My interest in the Explorer, and especially the 39mm model, has grown to the point where that's probably the one I would go with. Having said that, the Aquaterra Worldtimer is especially compelling to me and I love the Snowflake as well. Can't go wrong with these choices.
Given the choice above I would probably opt for the Explorer 1, just a great watch and would love to have one.
That being said, I’m going to throw in something controversial here... I have been thinking, if money weren’t a problem, in a hypothetical one watch world, would it not be really cool to have something like a PP Perpetual calendar? A simple gold one. Think about it - it’s the watch you’ll wear all the time, so in the majority of scenarios you’d be actually utilising the perpetual calendar functionality.
Yes, it wont go in the pool. But for this thought experiment I could potentially take it off to go in the pool for the bonus of perpetual usage of a perpetual calendar by Patek...
Thoughts?
As most of us I also play this mind game for myself very often. For me the Explorer I is close to the one watch collection, but I would prefer the OP39 white. It's on the edge between dress and sports watch. I can wear at the beach as well as with a suit. It is not blingy or loud. And from a Rolex marketing perspective: it is the Essence :)
perfect one watch
I'm not a rabid Rolex fan, but I think a lot of their traditional strength (setting aside the hype of recent years) has been their ability to field compelling one-watch offerings. Of these 3, I'd take the Explorer, but you could swap in any one of scores of OP or Datejust variations with equal success.
While I’ve heard the term used for years now, the idea of a one-watch “collection” still is very odd to me. As a self-described watch nerd/enthusiast, once you’re bitten by the watch game, the notion of collecting doesn’t really kick in until the ”one” in your mind becomes just the “first” or the you think of it as “the one for now.“ 😉
Who would take one of these 3 watches to the beach or to the pool or park and play with the kids ? not me... I have chosen for my daily watch the Cartier Santos ADLC, but as much as I consider it as a one watch collection, for the tasks above, I wear my GShock 5610... and this makes any of these refered watches, always and at the end, a 2 watch collection watch...