The Rolex Conundrum: Overrated Timepieces or Deserving Icons?
Greetings, Horological Enthusiasts,
I hope this post finds you all in high spirits and with your timepieces keeping precise time. Today, I'm here to kindle a conversation that has caused its fair share of heated debates within watch circles. Yes, I'm talking about the iconic brand we all know: Rolex.
Rolex, without a doubt, is a legendary name in the watch industry. Synonymous with luxury, quality, and prestige, their watches have graced the wrists of explorers, actors, world leaders, and the like. But here's the question that has sent ripples through the horology community:
Is Rolex truly deserving of its monumental reputation, or is it overrated?
Many purists argue that Rolex timepieces represent the epitome of watchmaking excellence – from the Oyster Perpetual's timeless design to the Submariner's unmatched durability. Their in-house movements, superior build quality, and meticulous attention to detail are just a few reasons Rolex has earned their respect.
However, some critics beg to differ. They argue that the popularity of Rolex is more of a result of successful marketing strategies and status symbolism rather than horological superiority. Moreover, the scarcity, inflated prices, and long waiting lists for popular models are seen as deterrents rather than signs of exclusivity.
So, let's set the gears in motion and dive into this passionate debate.
What's your take on the Rolex debate? Do you believe Rolex watches truly merit their acclaim, or do you feel they are overhyped?
Please keep in mind that this discussion is meant to be respectful and constructive. The objective is not to belittle anyone's preferences or choices, but to foster a deeper understanding and appreciation for the diverse world of horology.
Instagram: watchyostyle
Over rated for sure. For the same price you can get high horology watches.
Rolex has deffo earned its reputation as an excellent watchmaker and they are 100% iconic, they make excellent and beautiful timepieces and I don't think anyone can disagree with that, their movements are true "movements for watchmakers" and the people that own them miss out on that beauty that the watchmaker sees.
Regarding their marketing and supply, demand & alleged AD practices, that needs some work, as IMHO its putting people off sometimes.
In a very real sense, watches are meant keep good time while being worn during regular day to day activities. They should also last for as long as possible, meaning keep good time not only initially but also down the line, and not fall apart after a short while.
By those two criteria Rolex probably make the best mechanical watch, at any price. Most "high horology" stuff like JLC and upwards is simply too delicate to be worn day in day out and most other watches, with ETA and similar movements, are just that little bit less accurate and durable. The bracelets are that tiny bit more wiggly and just don't feel quite as nice. There are watches that do some things better, there are watches that out-spec them but when measured as an overall product they always fall short by a considerable margin, at least in my opinion. I know people say luxury is about getting more than you need, but I'd rather first have everything I need/notice and then we can talk about excessive resistance to magnets or super shiny polished bevels on the movement.
And while that might not be why most people are into Rolex, no matter the marketing it's always easier to sell a good product than a bad one. Personally, I'd say they deserve all the praise they get... and then some.
I think Rolex make some incredible watches and have done so for decades. @UnsignedCrown said most of what I was going to so I’ll keep it simple - the quality and prestige you pay for, you get in bucketloads.
Aesthetically and mechanically I don’t think there is a better option out there for £7.5k to the DJ36 I just purchased (see below). And I know that in 30 years time, the watch will be ticking along with me still looking as beautiful as now.
Yes there are watches with other complications or more WR etc. but I just want a robust beautiful prestigious watch to last me a lifetime. And I can’t think of anything better.
I'm an Omega fan, so I'd say overhype. All the most prestigious sporting events (except the Olympics, obviously) are sponsored by Rolex, artificial scarcity and YouTubers constantly pushing them feeds the hype.
I see a few in the wild, but when I try to spark up a conversation the owners aren't usually watch people unfortunately 😞
For me they are excellent watches BUT were at one time priced at a level. In recent years the prices have gone nuts, and they are charging what they can get away with, they are not the only ones doing that! As for waiting lists and all that stuff, then its hard not to see what they are up to. But forgetting all that you cant argue they make a great watch.
Iconic? Yes
(But iconic doesn’t mean perfect or best)
Overpriced? Yes
(But something is only ever worth what someone is willing to pay for it)
Do I still dream of owning a Sub and Gmt master 2 one day? Yes
(I will always love the design and build quality… at retail price)
I have been buying Rolex watches for 34 years… So even when they could not sell them at retail prices and they had to discount them to move inventory I was a loyal lover of the brand. I saw early on that they are the best for the price point. They are very consistant in thier methods and only get better. They are comfortable high quality and the best wearability for me.
Hype, status, flex, etc,etc is what other people get high on… it’s not for me.
Thx
This is a discussion that is controversial and should not be! Rolex watches are very good above middle tier, champions of the brands below PP, AP, VC, Brequet, Blancpain, JLC above Omega, Breitling TAG/Heurer. In my opinion in many ways inferior to Grand Seiko but no brand produces better advertising. I am Chinese so I view their remarkable ads with indifference since I am not the target audience of privileged white gents doing whatever it is the moneyed white classes do today before they slip into their preferred ads to pick up another Rollie. And yet the brand is massively desired and successful in Asia but that is a conversation for another forum. The modern Rolex owner is not the same person who bought Rolex before social media. Obviously, I am not referring to all owners of modern Rolex watches but there is strong cohort who will take exception with even an opinion that is just honest, personal not even negative.
A watch can be well made, iconic, and overhyped at the same time.
Rolex watches are undeniably well made, they have iconic style, and are heavily pushed by both official marketing and social media influencers.
All luxury is, by definition, overpriced and suffers heavy diminishing returns in quality per dollar spent.
In my eyes, Rolex is an inferior watch manufacturer to the likes of Omega or Grand Seiko by objective measures of construction quality and movement technology. But they get a pass from the entire world to mark up their watches way above their actual value by virtue of their unmatched marketing and public recognition.
Luxury goods are priced based on demand and offer. The demand for the Rolex name recognition is through the roof because of the perceived status symbol of the brand on social media. Making an educated purchase with the best watch technology available for your money will only impress a handful of watch nerds, whereas flashing a Rolex on your wrist is a universal language for "I have money". 😜
Debate is always healthy.
I believe Rolex deserves its accolades and acclaim, but it also deserves the frustration and disappointment with the waiting list games.
I own Rolex and there are a few other Rolex that I would buy in a nanosecond if I could
I have been a Rolex fan and owner for over 50 years but the last 15 or so I've seen a quality watch brand turn into an overpriced flex!! Sadly..I sold off all but three of my Rolex's because people were willing to pay insane prices for them. I am not saying they are not a great watch but they are not worth what the prices are today. JMO..enjoy the hobby!
Rolex has earned their reputation. Definitely a high quality piece. Nico would say God Tier 😅
I think, for what my opinion is worth, that it is a personal choice. People will argue to the grave that their brand is better than someone else's brand.
Every field where you find enthusiasts, you will find die hard fans of a specific brand and others who can't stand the other's favorite.
We could argue until the cows came home to figure this question out. Since I don't own cows, it will be a while!
Without a doubt, Rolex is a solid brand. Many will say they played the game well and are now sowing the rewards. Which is to some... Making the big bucks for excellent watches. Or, for others... "They ain't getting no money from me with all them wait lists shenanigans."
Like @Ls9009 just said, enjoy the hobby. Wear what you want.
And discuss like enthusiasts. And please don't argue like children!
My 2 Canadian cents. Or 0.015 USD.
I have a problem with the term "overrated". Can the watch be sold at luxury watch prices over a long periods of time? If so, it really can't be overrated in the eyes of the general public.
Rolex has been executing this product strategy for a long time, so the current state of affairs is no accident, either. (It always amuses me if someone online tries to tell Rolex to change their marketing or product management.)
Do I like their designs? Not particularly, but I can see why they work. They are immediately recognizable because they change very gradually.
The watches aren't that unique from my perspective, but the brand surely is. And that's what matters in this game.
In a very real sense, watches are meant keep good time while being worn during regular day to day activities. They should also last for as long as possible, meaning keep good time not only initially but also down the line, and not fall apart after a short while.
By those two criteria Rolex probably make the best mechanical watch, at any price. Most "high horology" stuff like JLC and upwards is simply too delicate to be worn day in day out and most other watches, with ETA and similar movements, are just that little bit less accurate and durable. The bracelets are that tiny bit more wiggly and just don't feel quite as nice. There are watches that do some things better, there are watches that out-spec them but when measured as an overall product they always fall short by a considerable margin, at least in my opinion. I know people say luxury is about getting more than you need, but I'd rather first have everything I need/notice and then we can talk about excessive resistance to magnets or super shiny polished bevels on the movement.
And while that might not be why most people are into Rolex, no matter the marketing it's always easier to sell a good product than a bad one. Personally, I'd say they deserve all the praise they get... and then some.
100% accurate statement here. Totally agree.
Rolex are controlling how their watches are distributed throughout the world, also when you account for real world inflation you can see that over the last decades many watches were far more expensive than a Rolex - and what has 'target audience ' got to do with it? Do the lucky people powerful enough to buy a Rolex live in some other planet away from everyone else? The mammoth prices Rolex cost is largely due to the immense marketing Rolex have on the watch industry, the watches themselves have hardly improved specification wise since the one's that cost a month wage. A seiko superior from 1978 cost around 2 years hard labour back then. A Lange & Sohne don't need to resort to this level of marketing.
Yes, they control the distribution to their ADs. Not to the end customer, which was my point.
Yes, they control the distribution to their ADs. Not to the end customer, which was my point.
And no doubt tell the AD to hide all the watches because nobody can buy them - they know exactly what they are doing in driving the demand
And no doubt tell the AD to hide all the watches because nobody can buy them - they know exactly what they are doing in driving the demand
I'm quoting myself from another Rolex thread the other day here:
Link to thread
I am curious, what would those measures be? They don't use fancy escapements but quite objectively Rolex provides the highest accuracy guarantee out of those three. Which kind of is what this is all about at the end of the day...
They co-developed the silicon oxidisation technology in Switzerland as part of a consortium with PP and Swatch and use it in their ladies movement. The group also demonstrated its ability to adhere to METAS standards a decent while ago, Tudor does it to some degree... what does that tell you? Like (Grand) Seiko they chose to not use silicon balance springs in their men's range which is fair enough I would say.
On the other hand they adapted an aerodynamically optimised variable inertia balance wheels (screws/weights on the "inside" like pioneered by PP's Gyromax) in the 1980s, or 30y before Omega (in the 8500) and Grand Seiko (9SA5) put them in their current/recent generation movements. Rolex also used a balance bridge in said movement from the 80s, much like the aforementioned GS and Omega movements that came 30y later. Grand Seiko also advertises an overcoil in their new 9SA5 movement. You know who's been doing that on an industrial scale for decades in the regular 3 handers... yeah, Rolex but not Omega. That's marketing point number 2 on GS's website, point 3 being the variable inertia balance wheel. Why was that stuff adapted, because it turned out to work a bit better, maybe?
Seems, I could of course be wrong, to me Rolex just have the foresight to identify where it's worth putting their resources. They are conservative and often slow to adapt something new even when it's a good thing, I'll give you that, but that doesn't mean they wouldn't have the actual ability to do so.
Okay, GS has industrialised the Spring Drive which is great, +1 to Seiko, but Omega?? Swatch apparently can't make a normal sized automatic chronograph to save their lives. They make some complicated stuff but I'd say it's quite a bit easier to make a fancy product on a tiny scale rather than identify something that scales up and has an effect on the regular consumer. Indeed, Rolex wasn't happy with the complexity of the El Primero, so they made a simpler automatic chronograph with fewer parts. Simpler is cheaper, cheaper is better and so if it was an easy thing to do, everybody would.
Totally agree. And please do not take this post as me bashing Grand Seiko or Omega, I have great relationships with both brands here in Tokyo, Ive met the CEO of Seiko and always get invited to their events at Wako etc. But I have to make some comments about "objective measures of movement and construction quality". I think if you were to look at it, with true objective eyes, its hard to see where either of those brands are more successful than Rolex...Take bracelets for example, I don't think even the most hardened GS or Omega fan can make a case that their brands make a better bracelet. Movement? I think there is room for alot of discussion that can be had here, my personal opinion is that Omega has interesting movements that Rolex do not have, such as a manual wind chronograph movement, such as the 3861 which from a watch enthusiast perspective is very interesting and Im glad they keep innovating it and producing it. Omega has also resurrected the 321, again not a "new" movement per se, but another thing that they have over Rolex which only has the 4230, although if wer were to compare purely "automatic" chronograph movements, its pretty much all Rolex in this arena. GS is more clear cut. They recently introduced the "tentagraph" but at 15mm thick, its difficult to make a case that their "technology" is superior. I think GS has come a long way for sure with their dual impulse escapements but they are still having issues with stability and accuracy to this day. I love their spring drive and in particular really love what they did with the new 5 day caliber 9RA2. Super unique finishing and highly accurate. This is one of their unique value propositions, although there are camps out there who view the Spring Drive as not a purely mechanical movement, due to the existence of the quartz oscilator to manage the time keeping. Still, its a great movement none theless.
I'm quoting myself from another Rolex thread the other day here:
Link to thread
That's another thing about Rolex, there's nothing particularly special about watches made in the millions. But if you are marketing them across every major sporting event in the world it will have a knock on effect - quality control in this level of mass production will nose dive
The entire Rolex brand is build upon lies, plagiarism and fraud.
Hans Wilsdorf was not a good man.
He knowingly published FAKE NEWS on the front cover of London's Daily Mail newspaper.
He literally took credit for another man's innovation, absolutely disgracefully.
Rolex did NOT create the world's first waterproof wristwatch as they have claimed for the past 97 years.
That honor belongs to Charles Depollier and his 1918 Waltham Depollier "Field & Marine" Waterproof Watch.
As CONFIRMED by United States government documents found in the National Archives.
Two different official U.S. government reports and numerous U.S. Army documents back all of this up.
Integrity and honor are not things that I would associate with the Rolex brand or their founder.
In 1958 the Rolex Submariner FAILED the U.S. Navy Experimental Diving Unit ability tests.
In 1918 the Waltham Depollier "Field & Marine" Waterproof Watch PASSED the waterproof ability tests conducted by the U.S. Army Engineering & Research Division and by the United States National Bureau of Standards.
When you buy a Rolex all you are buying is hype.
Everyone hates on Rolex (myself included), but if some haters were offered a piece at retail I'm sure they'd change their tune pretty quick...
But yeah will say overpriced for what you get, however they are well made and reliable. The iconic designs are what you pay for imo
There is nothing like wearing a Rolex nothing ...👍
Just seeing how long this thread is and how active the discussion is, tells you everything you need to know about Rolex
Even though Rolex has a rich history and reputation, the main problem with Rolex is that: they are so arrogant and basically tell you "you aren't important, you can't buy a watch". Or the AD makes you buy 50,000 worth of jewellery to get on the waitlist for a steel submariner ect. Rolex don't care about their customers. Evrey year, they do the same thing, but do it a little bit differently. The lack of innovation, the snobbishness coming from Rolex is why they are overrated. But, rolex has massively helped watches become more mainstream. But their watches are the best quality, but there are a lot of better options for the rolex prices.
All luxury is, by definition, overpriced and suffers heavy diminishing returns in quality per dollar spent.
In my eyes, Rolex is an inferior watch manufacturer to the likes of Omega or Grand Seiko by objective measures of construction quality and movement technology. But they get a pass from the entire world to mark up their watches way above their actual value by virtue of their unmatched marketing and public recognition.
Luxury goods are priced based on demand and offer. The demand for the Rolex name recognition is through the roof because of the perceived status symbol of the brand on social media. Making an educated purchase with the best watch technology available for your money will only impress a handful of watch nerds, whereas flashing a Rolex on your wrist is a universal language for "I have money". 😜
Beanna....absolutely!.All prestigeous (?) goods are desirable in that they are generally superbly designed and manufactured to the highest degree with the finest materials available to the artists who make them .Leather goods are a case in point.Just as outrageous as Rolex in their marketing hype are the likes of Louis Vuitton,Hermes,Bottega Vanetta et al,but they are desirable first and foremost for the quality of the manufacture.People who buy these items are satifying their appreciation for quality more importantly than the percieved kudos inevitably attached to the owner and ownership.
https://www.luxurybazaar.com/grey-market/rolex-myths/
An interesting article was published over the weekend about Rolex and the whoppers they've told and false claims they've made over the years.
Overhyped as a result of not being able to just get one by walking into an AD or after waiting a short amount of days. Their method of allocating to customers coupled with brand prestige/history creates the hype. I don't care what they cost. One can find excellent or better alternatives at each Rolex price point. But if I want one and can step to the price, I'd like to get one at retail whenever I'd like to.
yeah its so strange to me that Rolex's way of operating a store front is more like a Potemkin Village than a regular store. the watches might as well not exist if Joe Blow off the street cant be allowed to buy anything. but it seems to work for them so shows what I know.