This sounds fun. I hear a lot about Hamilton but don't have one in my collection. I could definitely be tempted to join that club.
Not in front of my book collection to fully answer this but one memorable title that deserves mention is: Modern Watches the modern collectors guide.
The answer to this question is largely dependent on your budget and your spouse / partner's tolerance for how big the collection grows. At least that's what my experience has been.
Plan? I can barely plan out my life much less my watch spending. I just have a kitty that I refill by selling stuff on FB marketplace and when I run across something that fills in one of the watch shaped holes in my heart or adds something to my collection I pull the trigger.
I don't know why Nico has such a hate-on for Bulova. I am rather pleased with the two I have in my collection. I also really admire the design work they've done over their very long history. I have several books in my collection with some stunning examples that I would buy in a heartbeat if they brought them back.
I like their watches but I'm not sure why the deserve the price point they ask for. Maybe I'm just not educated enough on them. Maybe they are just pricey for what they are. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
I do love a nice gold toned watch with the caveat that not all watch face colors work well with it.
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