What's your relationship with microbrands?

So, tell me, dear crunchers. How do you feel about microbrands? And naturally, give me your longer thoughts in the comments.
354 votes ·
Reply
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Episode 1 Confessions GIF - Find & Share on GIPHY

I've tried liking microbrands.  I've bought a number of microbrands.  I'm always excited when I read about the different and interesting offerings by microbrands.  And, the moment the watch arrived in the mail, I would eagerly open up the box, and think, "Wow!  Cool!"  And then the watches never made their way into my rotation!  And I've ended up selling off every single microbrand watch I've ever purchased.  

I suspect the following:

  • If I were a utilitarian tool watch guy, I would LOVE all these microbrand offerings - cool designs, reliable workhorse NH35 movements, innovative colors / concepts, and all that on offer at totally reasonable prices
  • But, I'm not a utilitarian tool watch guy.  I'm a dial and finishing guy.  Which means I only care about how much the watch sparkles
  • And, from painful experience, I've come to discover that the only way to get a watch to sparkle like Liberace's outfits is through hand polishing of indices, etc., etc.
  • And, unfortunately, hand-whatever is excruciatingly expensive

If some microbrand could come up with some automated machining technique that could very inexpensively make everything on a watch dial and case sparkle, I would immediately sell off my collection and buy those sparkly microbrand watches.

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I have seven microbrand watches from six microbrands....wearing one now actually, after taking off another one I started the day with.  I find no issue with getting them.  Helps diversify and fill out a collection at a relatively inexpensive way and it's the best way to take a chance.

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All of the above are true. There are amazing micro brands (Monta, AnOrdain, Farer, Ming, etc) and lousy ones. Then there are Ali brands people like to think are micro brands, but are not. Overlooking the value of some of these brands is a shame. Much offer far better watches than the higher end Seikos, Hamiltons, Junghans, and even some from Sinn, Bell and Ross, Tag etc. There is room in every collection for all of the above. 

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i always wanted one, too bad most of my choice is hard too found and overpriced in my country (baltic, lorier, smiths, trashka, etc). few brands that is still affordable are spinnaker, heimdall, pagani and most of what i like is their dive watch. too bad i already got one lol

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Big fan of microbrands and independents. It's hard sometimes defining when a microbrand becomes an independent. Zelos is a great example. Really hard to call them a microbrand. Yema is another - they even have "in-house" movements and they have a brand history. Nivada Grenchen would be another - I could keep going.

So the question is whether you are defining microbrands as the cheap $hitty watches that people are trying to flog for a couple of hundred dollars or whether you are referring to companies that may be using a heritage brand or have developed a strong brand but still are using assembled parts.

I cover the spectrum just because I am a magpie collector - as long as it looks interesting, I'll likely give it a try.

I agree with @AllTheWatches that Aliexpress "watches" are not microbrands. Most are made in the same factories with barely discernible differences between them using mix and match components and really should be just be classed as mass merchandise homage watches.

Let's take a microbrand like Furlan Marri. They essentially launched the brand by copying an old popular Patek Philippe design and slapped a cheap Seiko VK63 mecaquartz movement into it. @HotWatchChick69 would probably dig it because of the quality finishing and work on the dial. My view is that it was an overpriced overhyped entry-level watch that Aliexpress makers copied and released for an 15% of the price without much distinction between them other than the finishing.

I prefer to explore microbrands that are either releasing a really cool design that makes me feel like a kid buying a new Johnny Lightning or Hot Wheels car or one that impresses me with its technical build and quality for a great price/value ratio.

Here are two examples...

Hot Wheels-style inexpensive mecaquartz chronograph that just screams out to my inner 10-year old...

Image

Substantial superb quality build with amazing finishing for an incredible price...

Image

Audric SeaBorne 500 Glacier Blue ref. AUDSEA20BLU

Sellita SW200-1 Incabloc and Elabore

Double Domed Sapphire

Uni-directional Stainless Steel w/Sapphire

Stainless Steel w/Deployment Clasp

Water Resistance: 500M / 1,650FT

Price: $750

Here is a better professional photo of the watch...

Image

So there you have it.

You can go from fun to fantastic all for less than $1,000.

What's not to like?

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ChronoGuy

Big fan of microbrands and independents. It's hard sometimes defining when a microbrand becomes an independent. Zelos is a great example. Really hard to call them a microbrand. Yema is another - they even have "in-house" movements and they have a brand history. Nivada Grenchen would be another - I could keep going.

So the question is whether you are defining microbrands as the cheap $hitty watches that people are trying to flog for a couple of hundred dollars or whether you are referring to companies that may be using a heritage brand or have developed a strong brand but still are using assembled parts.

I cover the spectrum just because I am a magpie collector - as long as it looks interesting, I'll likely give it a try.

I agree with @AllTheWatches that Aliexpress "watches" are not microbrands. Most are made in the same factories with barely discernible differences between them using mix and match components and really should be just be classed as mass merchandise homage watches.

Let's take a microbrand like Furlan Marri. They essentially launched the brand by copying an old popular Patek Philippe design and slapped a cheap Seiko VK63 mecaquartz movement into it. @HotWatchChick69 would probably dig it because of the quality finishing and work on the dial. My view is that it was an overpriced overhyped entry-level watch that Aliexpress makers copied and released for an 15% of the price without much distinction between them other than the finishing.

I prefer to explore microbrands that are either releasing a really cool design that makes me feel like a kid buying a new Johnny Lightning or Hot Wheels car or one that impresses me with its technical build and quality for a great price/value ratio.

Here are two examples...

Hot Wheels-style inexpensive mecaquartz chronograph that just screams out to my inner 10-year old...

Image

Substantial superb quality build with amazing finishing for an incredible price...

Image

Audric SeaBorne 500 Glacier Blue ref. AUDSEA20BLU

Sellita SW200-1 Incabloc and Elabore

Double Domed Sapphire

Uni-directional Stainless Steel w/Sapphire

Stainless Steel w/Deployment Clasp

Water Resistance: 500M / 1,650FT

Price: $750

Here is a better professional photo of the watch...

Image

So there you have it.

You can go from fun to fantastic all for less than $1,000.

What's not to like?

Image
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ChronoGuy

Big fan of microbrands and independents. It's hard sometimes defining when a microbrand becomes an independent. Zelos is a great example. Really hard to call them a microbrand. Yema is another - they even have "in-house" movements and they have a brand history. Nivada Grenchen would be another - I could keep going.

So the question is whether you are defining microbrands as the cheap $hitty watches that people are trying to flog for a couple of hundred dollars or whether you are referring to companies that may be using a heritage brand or have developed a strong brand but still are using assembled parts.

I cover the spectrum just because I am a magpie collector - as long as it looks interesting, I'll likely give it a try.

I agree with @AllTheWatches that Aliexpress "watches" are not microbrands. Most are made in the same factories with barely discernible differences between them using mix and match components and really should be just be classed as mass merchandise homage watches.

Let's take a microbrand like Furlan Marri. They essentially launched the brand by copying an old popular Patek Philippe design and slapped a cheap Seiko VK63 mecaquartz movement into it. @HotWatchChick69 would probably dig it because of the quality finishing and work on the dial. My view is that it was an overpriced overhyped entry-level watch that Aliexpress makers copied and released for an 15% of the price without much distinction between them other than the finishing.

I prefer to explore microbrands that are either releasing a really cool design that makes me feel like a kid buying a new Johnny Lightning or Hot Wheels car or one that impresses me with its technical build and quality for a great price/value ratio.

Here are two examples...

Hot Wheels-style inexpensive mecaquartz chronograph that just screams out to my inner 10-year old...

Image

Substantial superb quality build with amazing finishing for an incredible price...

Image

Audric SeaBorne 500 Glacier Blue ref. AUDSEA20BLU

Sellita SW200-1 Incabloc and Elabore

Double Domed Sapphire

Uni-directional Stainless Steel w/Sapphire

Stainless Steel w/Deployment Clasp

Water Resistance: 500M / 1,650FT

Price: $750

Here is a better professional photo of the watch...

Image

So there you have it.

You can go from fun to fantastic all for less than $1,000.

What's not to like?

This is a nice post.  I will say, though, that Zelos is about as micro as it gets.  He's practically a one man show and releases very small amounts. 

I get that its hard to think of them that way due to the sheer quality you get but still a micro.

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Jimmer

This is a nice post.  I will say, though, that Zelos is about as micro as it gets.  He's practically a one man show and releases very small amounts. 

I get that its hard to think of them that way due to the sheer quality you get but still a micro.

They have made a lot of cool watches and I applaud them for coming up with creative colorways and designs.  They remind me a lot of Boldr in that while I appreciate them, the reliance on entry movements like NH35 and the Miyota 9039/15 for most of their pieces rule many I would otherwise look at out. I can easily see myself considering them as they experiment with different movements if the price is right. 

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It's a case-by-case scenario, even within the same brand there's some better models than others, speaking in terms of quality, finishing, etc. 

I haven't seen many in the flesh, own a brew and handled some lorier, and those have been great but I don't doubt there's bad ones out there.

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AllTheWatches

They have made a lot of cool watches and I applaud them for coming up with creative colorways and designs.  They remind me a lot of Boldr in that while I appreciate them, the reliance on entry movements like NH35 and the Miyota 9039/15 for most of their pieces rule many I would otherwise look at out. I can easily see myself considering them as they experiment with different movements if the price is right. 

I can understand that, but it's a give and take.  The Zelos I bought with a Sellita cost me almost double the one I bought with the Miyota.  Still a good deal, and no regrets, but what I paid for the Aurora with hardened coating titanium, quick release straps and toolless micro-adjust is almost robbery.

Edit: Wasn't almost double, only $150 more (though on a rubber strap, not one of their great bracelets).

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VictorAdameArt

It's a case-by-case scenario, even within the same brand there's some better models than others, speaking in terms of quality, finishing, etc. 

I haven't seen many in the flesh, own a brew and handled some lorier, and those have been great but I don't doubt there's bad ones out there.

Sounds like Option C is for you!

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Jimmer

I can understand that, but it's a give and take.  The Zelos I bought with a Sellita cost me almost double the one I bought with the Miyota.  Still a good deal, and no regrets, but what I paid for the Aurora with hardened coating titanium, quick release straps and toolless micro-adjust is almost robbery.

Edit: Wasn't almost double, only $150 more (though on a rubber strap, not one of their great bracelets).

Do not disagree at all. Looking at the prices with the Sellita and ETA movements, the ratio is off.  

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AllTheWatches

Do not disagree at all. Looking at the prices with the Sellita and ETA movements, the ratio is off.  

I'm sorry, I must amend the numbers.  I went back and looked.  The Aurora (with the Miyota) cost me $449, the Comet (with the Sellita and leather strap instead of bracelet) cost me $599.

So $150 more for the watch with the Sellita on the leather strap.

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complication

Sounds like Option C is for you!

That was my vote :p

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AllTheWatches

Do not disagree at all. Looking at the prices with the Sellita and ETA movements, the ratio is off.  

Aliexpress sell fake 2824 and SW200 movements starting at $60.00 also real movements the swiss play with and sell as real ETA's . Only difference is time spent on oil and finishing. Go on Alibaba (aliexpress parent company) and buy 1000 submariner clones and get them to put your logo on the dial to set yourself up as a microbrand. Fancy web page and give out a few to the Youtubers to review and then rake in the profits. Keep the prices a little under Seiko's prices for the win.

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i think some micros can tell a great story like this Sablier wine watch while others can be the same generic design so I take each as it’s own

Image
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As I might have mentioned before, as long as the term "microbrand" includes companies like MVMT to H. Moser & Cie, it is very, very hard to speak in generalities.

On the lower end there are watches from microbrands that directly compete with me building something at home. While the microbrands actually cost less, I don't mind paying somewhat of a premium for what I really want. For as much as $250 I have received a watch from a microbrand that was a sloppy build, something I would have been embarrassed about if I did it myself. It also came with a bracelet that would make an entry-level Seiko blush. This was offset by a great design. (This might have been a fluke, and I won't name names.)

What I'm trying to say is: Larger brands are a well-oiled machine, and especially when it comes to sourcing certain components that don't look like they came from the parts bin. They are fairly hard to beat regarding overall design consistency and build quality. I would really, really, really have to like a microbrand design to buy in the lower-end category of microbrands.

Up to $1000 I am somewhat nervous when it comes to microbrands, unless they have existed for a while, and have an established history. The same goes if they are a sub-category of a larger brand. But again, they often lack history, and they really have to get the design right for the value proposition to make sense. Even in this category you may run into unexpected shortcuts. 

I have never spend more than $1000 on a microbrand, so I really cannot speak to the experience. 

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I'll be surprised if C doesn't win this poll. 

For every AnOrdain, there's a Pagani and an unheard of brand. 

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Rossgallin

i think some micros can tell a great story like this Sablier wine watch while others can be the same generic design so I take each as it’s own

Image

This really does tell a story. The wine colored dial, cork themed strap & cork screw inspired seconds hand all tell me the wearer loves wine 

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Yeah, man.  I love the Desk Diver.  It's hilarious.  But, I never wear it.  Same with my modded pilot's watch - it's the perfect old timey lookin' pilot watch.  Yet, it never makes it into my rotation!

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complication

And the corny name and/or spelling mistakes on the dial ;)

The misspellings add “seasoning” to the watch 🤣😂🤣!

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Nothing wrong with them, it’s how I started my collection.  They eventually turned into my beater section of the watch box when I’m doing yard work, cleaning out the garage, or swimming.  Naturally my tastes have turned to the more heritage, more expensive brands…..but still haven’t popped on anything over 3k.

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Always_Watching

Many micro brands give you the specs  and/or design the big boys should at a fraction of the price. The good ones use reliable NH or Miyota movements so the only quality concern lies in the design.

design wise, i’ll take any established brand designs over micros As i’ve never found a micro design that speaks to me. 

spec wise and imo only, i doubt a miyota/soprod etc could ever out spec in-house movements from the bigger houses, but we’re moving into another territory if we’re debating on that... next episode maybe.

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ChronoGuy

Big fan of microbrands and independents. It's hard sometimes defining when a microbrand becomes an independent. Zelos is a great example. Really hard to call them a microbrand. Yema is another - they even have "in-house" movements and they have a brand history. Nivada Grenchen would be another - I could keep going.

So the question is whether you are defining microbrands as the cheap $hitty watches that people are trying to flog for a couple of hundred dollars or whether you are referring to companies that may be using a heritage brand or have developed a strong brand but still are using assembled parts.

I cover the spectrum just because I am a magpie collector - as long as it looks interesting, I'll likely give it a try.

I agree with @AllTheWatches that Aliexpress "watches" are not microbrands. Most are made in the same factories with barely discernible differences between them using mix and match components and really should be just be classed as mass merchandise homage watches.

Let's take a microbrand like Furlan Marri. They essentially launched the brand by copying an old popular Patek Philippe design and slapped a cheap Seiko VK63 mecaquartz movement into it. @HotWatchChick69 would probably dig it because of the quality finishing and work on the dial. My view is that it was an overpriced overhyped entry-level watch that Aliexpress makers copied and released for an 15% of the price without much distinction between them other than the finishing.

I prefer to explore microbrands that are either releasing a really cool design that makes me feel like a kid buying a new Johnny Lightning or Hot Wheels car or one that impresses me with its technical build and quality for a great price/value ratio.

Here are two examples...

Hot Wheels-style inexpensive mecaquartz chronograph that just screams out to my inner 10-year old...

Image

Substantial superb quality build with amazing finishing for an incredible price...

Image

Audric SeaBorne 500 Glacier Blue ref. AUDSEA20BLU

Sellita SW200-1 Incabloc and Elabore

Double Domed Sapphire

Uni-directional Stainless Steel w/Sapphire

Stainless Steel w/Deployment Clasp

Water Resistance: 500M / 1,650FT

Price: $750

Here is a better professional photo of the watch...

Image

So there you have it.

You can go from fun to fantastic all for less than $1,000.

What's not to like?

That Audric watch is a spec monster! I've got to check them out. Thanks 🙏👍

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I have them in 3 categories: 

1 - Chinese factory/brands with good reviews and some history of quality. I have more confidence in them I think than most people. The reason is that based on scattered evidence, I believe they are the source factories for many "Swiss" brands. There is at least one factory that makes cases for Rolex. That's why we're seeing super clones of top Swiss brands.

I ordered an original design from San Martin. Grade 5 titanium, ETA clone movement, excellent finish, etc. 

2 - Design focused brands like Farer. We all knows they are using standard movements, off the shelf stuff. I like that! In house movements are a pain to service! The time and money. 

I ordered the Stanhope II. I won't accept in house movements from micros since they may disappear. It has a sellita sw200. Easy to service. 

Also, Lilenthal Berlin. German company offering Bauhaus design. Snagged a Max Bill theme watch, sellita sw200 for $450.

3 - Smaller companies on the verge of going big. Whatever company you care to name. I think they are the least interesting and offer the least value. Once you get up there, I'm wondering why I'm not buying an Omega instead. 

It all comes down to the actual watch. I agree with prior comments about blurred categories and multiple factors that set my buying decision. 

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Funny all of your options A,B,C,D are TRUE at one point or another in my thinking ...😂

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Mr.Dee.Bater
Episode 1 Confessions GIF - Find & Share on GIPHY

I've tried liking microbrands.  I've bought a number of microbrands.  I'm always excited when I read about the different and interesting offerings by microbrands.  And, the moment the watch arrived in the mail, I would eagerly open up the box, and think, "Wow!  Cool!"  And then the watches never made their way into my rotation!  And I've ended up selling off every single microbrand watch I've ever purchased.  

I suspect the following:

  • If I were a utilitarian tool watch guy, I would LOVE all these microbrand offerings - cool designs, reliable workhorse NH35 movements, innovative colors / concepts, and all that on offer at totally reasonable prices
  • But, I'm not a utilitarian tool watch guy.  I'm a dial and finishing guy.  Which means I only care about how much the watch sparkles
  • And, from painful experience, I've come to discover that the only way to get a watch to sparkle like Liberace's outfits is through hand polishing of indices, etc., etc.
  • And, unfortunately, hand-whatever is excruciatingly expensive

If some microbrand could come up with some automated machining technique that could very inexpensively make everything on a watch dial and case sparkle, I would immediately sell off my collection and buy those sparkly microbrand watches.

YOu must try the Halios universa for shiny indices at a great price ..

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ChronoGuy

Big fan of microbrands and independents. It's hard sometimes defining when a microbrand becomes an independent. Zelos is a great example. Really hard to call them a microbrand. Yema is another - they even have "in-house" movements and they have a brand history. Nivada Grenchen would be another - I could keep going.

So the question is whether you are defining microbrands as the cheap $hitty watches that people are trying to flog for a couple of hundred dollars or whether you are referring to companies that may be using a heritage brand or have developed a strong brand but still are using assembled parts.

I cover the spectrum just because I am a magpie collector - as long as it looks interesting, I'll likely give it a try.

I agree with @AllTheWatches that Aliexpress "watches" are not microbrands. Most are made in the same factories with barely discernible differences between them using mix and match components and really should be just be classed as mass merchandise homage watches.

Let's take a microbrand like Furlan Marri. They essentially launched the brand by copying an old popular Patek Philippe design and slapped a cheap Seiko VK63 mecaquartz movement into it. @HotWatchChick69 would probably dig it because of the quality finishing and work on the dial. My view is that it was an overpriced overhyped entry-level watch that Aliexpress makers copied and released for an 15% of the price without much distinction between them other than the finishing.

I prefer to explore microbrands that are either releasing a really cool design that makes me feel like a kid buying a new Johnny Lightning or Hot Wheels car or one that impresses me with its technical build and quality for a great price/value ratio.

Here are two examples...

Hot Wheels-style inexpensive mecaquartz chronograph that just screams out to my inner 10-year old...

Image

Substantial superb quality build with amazing finishing for an incredible price...

Image

Audric SeaBorne 500 Glacier Blue ref. AUDSEA20BLU

Sellita SW200-1 Incabloc and Elabore

Double Domed Sapphire

Uni-directional Stainless Steel w/Sapphire

Stainless Steel w/Deployment Clasp

Water Resistance: 500M / 1,650FT

Price: $750

Here is a better professional photo of the watch...

Image

So there you have it.

You can go from fun to fantastic all for less than $1,000.

What's not to like?

LIke the Audric design and color just wish the name wasnt audric...;)

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I've got a collection that includes Big Brand watches, but also really enjoy certain microbrands.  Currently, my collection includes the Lorier Neptune IV, EC Anderson Poseidon, two Brew watches - the Retrograph and Retromatic, and three Vaer watches.  I sometimes wonder if I would have been happier having not purchased them and put that money towards one watch, but these watches regularly get wrist time, they make me happier, I don't have to build up relationships with ADs to get them and I like their quality to cost ratio 

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watch396

Funny all of your options A,B,C,D are TRUE at one point or another in my thinking ...😂

Many polls are like that as life is seldom black and white. 

In those circumstances, you go with what's most true for you.