Finding my Perfect Ranger Alternative
I have a gap in my collection. I really want a tool watch in the vein of the Tudor Ranger or a field watch like the Vertex M100, but since there's no room for these grail watches in the budget right now, I'd like to find an alternative.
I have pretty strict set of requirements:
An inky-black, preferably matte, dial
Large, bright Arabic markers
fully-brushed 36-40mm case without diving bezel
At least 100 meters WR
Bonus points for threaded crown/sapphire crystal/drilled lugs
Less than US$800
This knocks out the standard Hamilton Khaki with their 5 bar WR. I might just get the Sinn 556A (about 1400 bucks) down the road, but I'd love to learn about some more affordable options. If you own one that fits the bill, please let me know. Do you have any minor gripes or quibbles? Thank you kindly in advance for any suggestions.
(photos from Worn & Wound and aBlogtoWatch)
Part-time watch enthusiast.
More from clbailey
You might like the new Protrail by Circula - see https://circulawatches.com/en/product/protrail/
is some of the original dirty dozen cost less than 800$?
I am thinking about the Serica field watch at the moment. Classic field watch design with enough unique Charakter. I would always go for something that can stand on its own design wise. Otherwise it will not stop you from wanting the watch it is supposed to replace.
I would go for the california dial, but they have more standard options.
is some of the original dirty dozen cost less than 800$?
They normally don't lume the numbers - just the markers near them. (see https://teddybaldassarre.com/blogs/watches/dirty-dozen-watches)
Check out the Islander x Hemel Hawkeye
https://longislandwatch.com/islander-x-hemel-hawkeye-39mm-modern-flieger-with-black-dial-isl-203/?gclid=CjwKCAiAjPyfBhBMEiwAB2CCIk6JVlCIn1iHIiTn0R78Vr4G6vp46X4090w9dhv-nwUrVbNWZouPIBoCpW8QAvD_BwE
Have a look at Baltany watches
They do a range of 36-38mm offerings, sapphire and screw down crowns
How about the Citizen BM8560-53E?
Titanium
100m water resistant
Sapphire crystal
Eco Drive
About 240-270 bucks/quid
It's a 42mm case, but looks like it might wear a bit smaller than that, and it's also a day+date complication which puts some people off, but hard to go wrong at that price.
Photos from Citizen's website
I think the Lorier Falcon got you covered except for the sapphire.
Around 500$ if I remember correctly.
The titnaium Khaki field are 100m WR and looks awesome, but at 975$ I think
You might like the new Protrail by Circula - see https://circulawatches.com/en/product/protrail/
Adding this to the list. Made in Germany, and rocking the SW200. The black DLC-coated version is sexy.
I am thinking about the Serica field watch at the moment. Classic field watch design with enough unique Charakter. I would always go for something that can stand on its own design wise. Otherwise it will not stop you from wanting the watch it is supposed to replace.
I would go for the california dial, but they have more standard options.
The Commando is awesome. Hell of a tough-looking tool watch.
How about the Citizen BM8560-53E?
Titanium
100m water resistant
Sapphire crystal
Eco Drive
About 240-270 bucks/quid
It's a 42mm case, but looks like it might wear a bit smaller than that, and it's also a day+date complication which puts some people off, but hard to go wrong at that price.
Photos from Citizen's website
Saw this on Amazon. The 42mm does seem a bit big, but it's very nice. They make a 37mm called the Garrison that I've considered as well. It's got mineral crystal, but pretty affordable. https://amzn.eu/d/10bWToj
is some of the original dirty dozen cost less than 800$?
Yes, if you are very lucky, but you are not going to get the intended use out of them looking at the specs. These are nearly 80s years old, they cannot be bashed about, unfortunately.
Timor actually do a version of their WWW and their ATP with Serica movements, and they are about £900. I would definitely check those out.
For less than £400, I’d actually argue for a Kuoe Kyoto Old Smith 90-002, but it doesn’t have the drilled lugs and comes at a classic 35mm, but I’m not sure it fits the bill. Failing that, get a CWC GS Sapphire, and again that’s a souped-up G10 with 200m resistance, sapphire glass, but fixed lugs. It’s about as solid a field watch as you could get.
Have a look at Baltany watches
They do a range of 36-38mm offerings, sapphire and screw down crowns
Interesting stuff. Definitely good specs for the money.
Check out the Islander x Hemel Hawkeye
https://longislandwatch.com/islander-x-hemel-hawkeye-39mm-modern-flieger-with-black-dial-isl-203/?gclid=CjwKCAiAjPyfBhBMEiwAB2CCIk6JVlCIn1iHIiTn0R78Vr4G6vp46X4090w9dhv-nwUrVbNWZouPIBoCpW8QAvD_BwE
That's damn nice for the money. Not sure why so much of the case is polished, but that doesn't bother me really.
Yes, if you are very lucky, but you are not going to get the intended use out of them looking at the specs. These are nearly 80s years old, they cannot be bashed about, unfortunately.
Timor actually do a version of their WWW and their ATP with Serica movements, and they are about £900. I would definitely check those out.
For less than £400, I’d actually argue for a Kuoe Kyoto Old Smith 90-002, but it doesn’t have the drilled lugs and comes at a classic 35mm, but I’m not sure it fits the bill. Failing that, get a CWC GS Sapphire, and again that’s a souped-up G10 with 200m resistance, sapphire glass, but fixed lugs. It’s about as solid a field watch as you could get.
The CWC with sapphire is out of stock, unfortunately. The Fatboy is pretty nice though, and I wasn't expecting to get some actual history in that price range.
Timefactors? You’re breaking my heart, you really are.
You can get CWC tonneau W10s as well. Avoid Timefactors, plus don’t be surprised if you can’t actually get one in any drops.
CWC W10 tonneaus? How was I not aware one could procure these? I love this company more and more. I think I should just tell my paymaster to wire my wages direct to Silverman's at this point.
CWC W10 tonneaus? How was I not aware one could procure these? I love this company more and more. I think I should just tell my paymaster to wire my wages direct to Silverman's at this point.
CWC Mellor-72 Mechanical
your welcome…
Easy. Just walk into your local Rolex AD and pick up an Explorer. 😂
CWC Mellor or Fatboy depending on whats your jam?
I was going to mention CWC, but @Porthole beat me to it (I think he loves those watches more than I do).
If you're after Field watch style, and you're ok waiting a few months, how about this badboy
The Grandfather of the CWC G10. The Smiths W10. The originals were produced from 1967 to 1970 (then they switched to cushion cases which I think is 100x cooler but hey ho) for the MOD. 36mmx 47mm, 11 mm thick, 100m wr, drilled lugs (the og had fixed lugs) powered by a sellita SW210. Sapphire crystal. Yours for £405 (actually that's not bad. I think I might have found my next watch too).
CWC might be in the lead.
CWC might be in the lead.
For $180 more you could get something really solid, a Damasko Swiss DS30. It doesn't have the numerals but it does have submarine steel and a ETA movement!
39mm and under 10mm... it also has:
200-meter water resistance, knurled screw-down crown, the mechanism is fully hardened and along with a screw-in case back, sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides as well as CL1 SuperLuminova, 25 ruby, 28,800 half oscillations/hour, Shockproof according to DIN 8308, Anti-magnetic according to DIN 8309
Better than most Ive seen listed here.
https://longislandwatch.com/damasko-ds30-german-watch-ds30/?_ga=2.59678253.1490250505.1677833615-150531863.1677622829&_gac=1.53501402.1677622829.Cj0KCQiA6fafBhC1ARIsAIJjL8luqg2VM8y8ny02W4HPVUkPPOqM-LC9S4CacAqHM6PlAAfjhJ3TVMAaAs4jEALw_wcB
Timefactors? You’re breaking my heart, you really are.
You can get CWC tonneau W10s as well. Avoid Timefactors, plus don’t be surprised if you can’t actually get one in any drops.
Agreed.
If you are going for their drop get your credit card/address information stored in browser ready to go. You need to check out probably in less than 10 seconds
For $180 more you could get something really solid, a Damasko Swiss DS30. It doesn't have the numerals but it does have submarine steel and a ETA movement!
39mm and under 10mm... it also has:
200-meter water resistance, knurled screw-down crown, the mechanism is fully hardened and along with a screw-in case back, sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides as well as CL1 SuperLuminova, 25 ruby, 28,800 half oscillations/hour, Shockproof according to DIN 8308, Anti-magnetic according to DIN 8309
Better than most Ive seen listed here.
https://longislandwatch.com/damasko-ds30-german-watch-ds30/?_ga=2.59678253.1490250505.1677833615-150531863.1677622829&_gac=1.53501402.1677622829.Cj0KCQiA6fafBhC1ARIsAIJjL8luqg2VM8y8ny02W4HPVUkPPOqM-LC9S4CacAqHM6PlAAfjhJ3TVMAaAs4jEALw_wcB
Damasko seems awesome. The price limit I set is pretty arbitrary, but I'm really looking for something at the lower end of it for now. For the moeny, I'd probably still prefer the Sinn 556A over the DS30, although I do like that yellow second hand.
Thank you all for the suggestions! This is my first thread here and it's great to learn about new brands from smarter watch nerds than myself.
I've officially narrowed it down to:
CWC
Smiths
Islander
Cincinnatti Watch Co.
Vaer
Timex gets an honorable mention but those automatic Expeditions might as well be Roleys.
I'm still doing research and narrowing options down, but this is a great start.
I just got a Smiths Everest PRS 25 from Time Factors (or eBay) . 36mm, 100m WR, screw down back and crown, sapphire, Mitota mvmt, 316L, drilled lugs, $415 USD. They open for purchase here and there. Next opening March 5, 9am EST for 2 variations.
https://www.timefactors.com/collections/smiths?page=1
I lucked out and got an everest with the gilt dial direct from Timefactors. Buying experience sucks, but I gotta say I'm super impressed with that watch.
Great quality build, beautiful dial and while its an homage, it definitely has its own character.
Lots of great suggestions. If you're willing to buy used and be very patient, I found a pretty much like new Sinn 556A and white face 104 for extremely good deals. Those are the only used watches I have right now, but both purchases worked out great for me.
I tried to get one on their site the second it opened for purchase but they sold out within 1 min! I picked mine up on eBay.
I ended up finding something completely different from all of your wonderful suggestions.
It's available for pre-order now (https://www.drakenwatches.com/shop/aoraki/aoraki-vector/ ). I feel like it has enough of that Explorer/Ranger DNA, but it's doing it's own thing. It's tough as hell. I'm also a sucker for lume, and this has plenty. Now, I just have to wait until May for it to arrive.