Sampling of GS models <38mm by Mark Cho YT Video
Hey Crunchfam, I’m not sure how many of you are familiar with Mark Cho, Co-Founder of The Armoury in Hong Kong and NYC. He is/was a huge watch collector and big Grand Seiko fan since the early days, and is also retailer for the brand which gives him some great access opportunities.
I ran across this video a couple of weeks ago showcasing a lot of the currently available smaller GS options. Covers some great options like the Quartz Snowflake, fan dials, and the manual wind SBGW305 on BOR:
https://youtu.be/5hiEqN1THnc?si=BO3bNlasg9XXaAE7
Now I know this may be a touchy subject for folks with big wrists, but GS has traditionally had some very large offerings and only recently started pushing more smaller diameter dress watches. I’ve been all over the place with them, going from the 37mm quartz to the 40mm GMT’s to the Birches to the 45mm Tokyo Lion, all the way back to 36mm vintage—all being quite wearable. What I like is more diversity of options so that we can score our Goldilocks porridge for everyone. I’ve yet to see or try a 34mm GS but have a feeling it’ll be just fine too.
For now these smaller diameter products highlighted in the video are limited to mechanicals and quartz, but here’s to hoping for a smaller spring drive package will be coming in the future.
Side note: Mark’s been a champion of smaller sized offerings as they tend to match better for dressier gentlemen’s attire. It’s always great to have a diversity of interests—and speaking of which, Mark spearheaded a recent reimagination and renovation of the 5th floor retail space of the Pedder Building as a “sanctuary from the intensity of Hong Kong, providing a sophisticated and calm atmosphere for people to enjoy.”
Disclaimer: I don’t know Mark and I haven’t been there to the Pedder yet, but wish I could as it looks like a great place to spend some time—whether it’s having a drink, a smoke?, listening to KEF speakers, trying on different threads, pop ups and collabs, etc.
Anyhow—thanks for reading if you made it this far.
Mark auctioned off his entire watch collection for Armoury expansion in NYC. It is one of my favorites stores for attire and they provide the blazers for HSNY. The size of his collection was outstanding.
Mark auctioned off his entire watch collection for Armoury expansion in NYC. It is one of my favorites stores for attire and they provide the blazers for HSNY. The size of his collection was outstanding.
Oh yeah, I remember seeing the details about the enormity of watches being auction off--totally mindblowing. 🤯 I've followed along his collection for years and been introduced to quite a few cool finds like Naoya Hida, etc. The man made a big sacrifice of his killer collection to build up his other passion.
I’d love to see the 36.5mm 44GS case with a spring drive movement. No idea if this is possible. Maybe SD is a chunky movement. It’s always seemed a shame to me that it’s reserved for larger watches.
Thanks for sharing Al!!
I really enjoy his videos. A low key tempo, so reveiling compared to most others.
I really enjoy his videos. A low key tempo, so reveiling compared to most others.
Yeah, exactly, Per. You can tell he’s a real enthusiast and not just someone trying to hype for the sake of views, etc.
Had this video popping up in my recommended for a few days now I think 😂😂 need to find a time slot to watch it through
Hi Al! Thx for the post, as usual an interesting read before starting my day. I was late to Grand Seiko, after buying 3 high beat models, still have not quite decided on a spring drive mostly because I do not like to wear titanium. A combination of covid and a cohort of my clients forced into semi retirement more or less eliminated a need to shop for the sort of garments that the Armoury markets but I have always enjoyed Mark Cho’s attitude about watches and tailored clothing highlighted in his videos. Last year, I was able to hook up with a childhood buddy whose niece married a fella who divides his time between Hong Kong and NYC, the niece’s hubby knows Mark through his business. My friend who is super successful but not into watches or bespoke suits said only the super rich can genuinely appreciate the intensity of Mark’s passions, haha.
I used to live in HK in the mid-2010’s, and the Armoury (in both the Landmark and the Pedder buildings) was one of my favorite stores to shop. It was also a great place to check out a lot of GS watches in the metal, in the days before the brand really began their push to expand internationally. Highly recommend a visit for any of you who are passing through or are based in HK.
I’d love to see the 36.5mm 44GS case with a spring drive movement. No idea if this is possible. Maybe SD is a chunky movement. It’s always seemed a shame to me that it’s reserved for larger watches.
We can dream right!? Currently, the smallest watch with a SD movement is the Omiwatari at 38.5mm. They did manage to get it into a case under 11mm thick, but it's a manually wound movement, which naturally allows for a thinner case. I think for now and the foreseeable future, that's about as small as we are getting. One good thing about GS is they are constantly pushing the limits of what can be done, so I have no doubts they are working on it. Just don't know if we will see it next year or 10 years from now.
It is in an incredible watch. Got to try one out the other day and the dimensions are PERFECT for a modern watch that leans to the dressier side of things.
Thanks for sharing Al! Very interesting information and I’ll keep the video for tonight after the trip! I am sure it will keep me good company 🤝
The Pedder must be an awesome place to visit. I will look for more information about it!
I saw this video a few weeks ago and was excited to see some of the present offerings that worked for folks with small wrist sizes (like myself). HK is much too far but the NYC location is only a few blocks from my job, have to check it out one day!
1 more week to see if any new smaller case sized will be introduced.
All i know from attending a GS event is: folks who like midsize watches and Spring Drive should look foward to the releases 😎
Also about Mark, he has great taste, i like similar style of watches (i just dont dress like him hahaha).
Thanks so much for this post!!
Cool to hear about these options! I'm not surprised a menswear vet would prefer a quieter watch, it's a hobby/passion where people obsess over minute differences in scale, etc. right?
Mark is fuckin awesome. I'm not even a gentleman's fashion kind of guy, but he's amazing at what he does and his knowledge of watches is properly detailed. Seems like a great guy. He has impeccable taste too.
Thank you!🙏
Gotta love Mark! Been following him/the Armoury for about 5 years years now, since he caters to two of my passions at once: Watches and classic menswear.
Awesome post, Al. I must admit that I have never considered selling all my watches, but after reading about Mark's sacrifice to make his dream come true, it has made me reconsider many aspects of our great hobby (I meant to say addiction, 😂🤣). Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the article Al. I'm saving my pennies with the plan to buy a GS in early 2025 and I can add this video to help in my research in deciding which Grand Seiko to purchase.
The 37mm Elegance Quartz is my grail. I think that Mark sometimes comes of as the high and mighty type, but I'm starting to wander if he's just a bit akward in some situations 🤔
Thanks for the introduction Al.
I’m just seeing this now but I stumbled on his video recently and it was great to see more vintage sized watches being shown. A spring drive 34-36mm would be my ideal watch to finish my collection - I really hope you’re right.