The Myth Of "The Modern Rolex"
Hi Watch People.
I read something today that threw me for a loop and made me reexamine how I view watch collecting.
Crown and Caliber had a breakdown of Rolex Submariner prices throughout the years, adjusted for inflation to today's dollar. We'll get back to that...
I'm attracted to watches, obsessed with them, not just as objects, but as an element of modern life. Acquiring a tool that can help you every day, and following the tradition of those before me who took the same path.
As I've been on my journey of collecting and learning, I have felt more of a pull towards "LUXURY" - Why? Because it's "the best," right? If money were no object, you would trade your Honda for a BMW or a Porsche or something. Performance, to help you on your journey.
So while I love my Seikos and Loriers and Citizens and San Martins, part of me is saying, "Well, of course this is just until you can afford what they call a 'Real Watch'"
A Seamaster ($5,900)
A Tudor Black Bay 58 ($4,000)
Or, dare I even dream, a Rolex Submariner ($16,000)
But I read that article, and for the first 20 years of its existence, (arguably the golden age of Rolex,) when individuals who needed a tool to aid them on their quests to greatness - the rock climbers, the famous actors, the deep sea divers - they were walking into a store, picking up a Submariner, and plunking down today's equivalent of a mere $1,200 dollars.
One thousand, two hundred dollars.
We all know today's Rolex prices are inflated, it's a status symbol, it's a brand, I accept that. But I'm here to say, watches, WATCHES IN GENERAL, cost too much.
People are free to spend on whatever they want, and yes, wristwatches are anachronistic affectations in a world of cell phones, BUT
What is our relationship with the watch?
If you want to walk that path that was carved out for us, to cut out all the hype and noise and b.s.. If you desire to have a reliable, stylish time piece on your wrist to help you with your missions from a brand you trust. If you have $1,200 in your pocket...
Where do you go?
So that's my North Star now. That's what I'm looking for. That's what I'm willing to spend without feeling like a victim of corporate manipulation.
I've been thinking about this all day and here's where I landed:
Seiko SPB143. A modern Submariner.
$1,200. A brand with history gets you a rugged tool that will tell you the date and time and look good on your wrist, even after years of nicks and scratches. I don't know if there is a better modern day equivalent of what the Sub was to an adventurer in 1965 that had a little money (but not a small fortune) in their pocket.
That's what I came up with, and I might just buy one.
What's your answer?
No idea what day it is.
Of course mechanical watches in general are over-priced. Since no one needs one (phones, computers, billboards, cars all have the time for us), any mechanical or even quartz over $100 is basically a luxury item. Especially when you have more than one.
If I were to be plunking down $1200 on a watch now, it would probably be...
AND
I'd say Christopher Ward also has some very nice pieces for around that $1,200 price.
I agree watches are too expensive. I have a Tudor and an Omega, and they're very nice. But I still enjoy my Seikos, San Martins, Islanders, and Seesterns just about as much.
Of course mechanical watches in general are over-priced. Since no one needs one (phones, computers, billboards, cars all have the time for us), any mechanical or even quartz over $100 is basically a luxury item. Especially when you have more than one.
If I were to be plunking down $1200 on a watch now, it would probably be...
AND
Lorier is excellent. I have the new Neptune and I love it. Lunar pilot is a great answer and I would already have one if I had a bigger wrist. It really puts into perspective how massively overpriced the Speedmaster is.
I'd say Christopher Ward also has some very nice pieces for around that $1,200 price.
I agree watches are too expensive. I have a Tudor and an Omega, and they're very nice. But I still enjoy my Seikos, San Martins, Islanders, and Seesterns just about as much.
That's good to hear.
Christopher Ward I should revisit. I do tend towards trusting "older" brands. CW has been around 20 years though - when does that trust kick in? That's a blindspot on my part maybe, buying into the "heritage" angle. Still, as much as I love my micro brands, I worry that one day they will suddenly be gone, doors shuttered.
I get where you are coming from but the modern day equivalent is something like a G-Shock IMHO.
I was a Deep Sea Diver when you could walk in to an AD and get a Sub or Sea Dweller with no fuss but the reality is we all wore them as they fitted the image rather than being a nessesacity.
I get where you are coming from but the modern day equivalent is something like a G-Shock IMHO.
I was a Deep Sea Diver when you could walk in to an AD and get a Sub or Sea Dweller with no fuss but the reality is we all wore them as they fitted the image rather than being a nessesacity.
I don't mind there being an image factor to it - I'm actively looking for something that ties me to a larger narrative. It's the exponential financial factor that I think is where it's gone astray.
You might be right about a G-Shock. Certainly the military has embraced them for practicality. I guess that moves too far into digital technology for me to feel connected to romance, and for that I may as well use my phone.
I don't mind there being an image factor to it - I'm actively looking for something that ties me to a larger narrative. It's the exponential financial factor that I think is where it's gone astray.
You might be right about a G-Shock. Certainly the military has embraced them for practicality. I guess that moves too far into digital technology for me to feel connected to romance, and for that I may as well use my phone.
Ah OK, well a lot of us wore Seikos as well, still have my Gen 1 Black Monster that served me well.
Ah OK, well a lot of us wore Seikos as well, still have my Gen 1 Black Monster that served me well.
Love it.
A North Flag for £1200 would be a bargain. I paid £1300 for my Aqua Terra quartz.
I don't mind there being an image factor to it - I'm actively looking for something that ties me to a larger narrative. It's the exponential financial factor that I think is where it's gone astray.
You might be right about a G-Shock. Certainly the military has embraced them for practicality. I guess that moves too far into digital technology for me to feel connected to romance, and for that I may as well use my phone.
I think the military thing with G-Shocks is over emphasized in the watch community. Most people I see in uniform wearing G-Shocks are new privates/sailors/airmen who bought a "military" watch...
Most people I know who have been in a few years tend to wear smaller, less conspicuous watches. G-Shocks tend to be limited to the "Gerado" types outside of highly specialized roles.
You have come to the correct conclusion- I have a seiko sbp147 amd I posted a similar conclusion
I would also suggest ORIS as a Swiss alternative- independent and so well made - I’ve had one for nearly 20years and still as reliable as ever - I now have 3 of them ( greedy I know )
For me to make a purchase of 16k that has to be a family decision and I would be too scared to wear it
Heck - I’ve got a moonwatch and I forced myself to take it on vacation and won’t do it again - it’s just not enjoyable if you are scared for it
I may get a 143 - I love the look
Good post 👍
This is my daily tool watch, "hand-down-to-my-kids", not willing to play the game watch.
Its the watch I have now, wearing through the memories happening now, not the watch I'll get in 5 years, maybe.
Of course watches in general cost too much. Today the more compelling question is what doesn’t cost too much? I appreciate the argument and might even vaguely support the message of your post but speaking only for myself, I understand that I am overpaying for any of the watches that I have agreeably purchased after my dad gifted to me my first decent timepiece: a 60s Omega Seamaster watch that was sporty and dressy. He chose a simple Rolex OP with a manual date function for himself. My older brother more worldly by 18 months was not complaining but did mumble that he preferred the appearance of our dad’s Rolex fitted with an oyster bracelet over his Seamaster. My father said that we could buy whatever we wanted in time as long as we could pay the bill. That is my uncomplicated path and do not feel manipulated or a victim when I overpay for a watch or a head of organic lettuce grown without pesticides. It is very a simple matter of my personal choice.
Rolex's were affordable tools until 1980s yuppies turned them into a status symbol.
I like my SPB147 ( anthracite dial ) so comfortable and well balanced watch and your right “dear” for a Seiko but well finished and feels great on the wrist , easy to forget it is on your wrist!
Yes, high end watchmaking is waaay to expensive. But that is kind of what luxury is. It is not about the value, its all about the status. Of course there is a lot of artistry in it, but come on. Same goes with paintings 😂😂😂
For £1200
The Ball is bang on the money
I envy you. I have that same watch on my list. Looks even better in your wrist shot btw.
Yes, high end watchmaking is waaay to expensive. But that is kind of what luxury is. It is not about the value, its all about the status. Of course there is a lot of artistry in it, but come on. Same goes with paintings 😂😂😂
I'm not sure I agree about the price/value of luxury items. Even accepting your premise, at the very least, I would say the moniker of "luxury" is overused. Richard Mille, JLC, sure, but an Omega being marketed as the best in tool watches? This is not a $6,000 item. It does not justify the price tag in practical value or the elusive social cache. It's just simply overblown, in my opinion.
Good food for thought. I'm not materialistic usually (drive a Nissan, wear non brand clothes), but I'm a sucker for watches.
I'm talking about higher end watches specifically, but I've resigned myself that this is my vice and I'm fine to "overpay" for what they are. I love a good deal, but I'm fine knowing that I can appreciate the craftsmanship, engineering, or someone's hand finishing went into a piece of man-jewelry I own.
I'm not sure I agree about the price/value of luxury items. Even accepting your premise, at the very least, I would say the moniker of "luxury" is overused. Richard Mille, JLC, sure, but an Omega being marketed as the best in tool watches? This is not a $6,000 item. It does not justify the price tag in practical value or the elusive social cache. It's just simply overblown, in my opinion.
I agree, there are always exeptions in cases. But using your example. Compare quality/finish/movement/metrials from an Omega 300m and compare it to a Rolex Sub. And like this you can make so many comparisons.
I envy you. I have that same watch on my list. Looks even better in your wrist shot btw.
Ball are quite underrated in my opinion, they have a great history and they price their watches realistically.
Get one whilst you can before the prices inevitably go up. Good luck
Really interesting but a one thing to note, the article is from 2014, which means the values are more than a little off, for example here in the UK £150 in 1953 would now be £5,134 and £6,300 in 2012 with now be £9,128.
Really interesting but a one thing to note, the article is from 2014, which means the values are more than a little off, for example here in the UK £150 in 1953 would now be £5,134 and £6,300 in 2012 with now be £9,128.
Yes, someone else pointed out that there is probably another $400 American to play around with. Still nowhere near what is currently accepted as acceptable to ask for a "real" watch.
Yes, someone else pointed out that there is probably another $400 American to play around with. Still nowhere near what is currently accepted as acceptable to ask for a "real" watch.
I agree, the concept of value/price has changed dramatically, plus you do not have to go back that far to see it. I have been interested in a JLC Reverso and when I started looking in mid 2020 the model was around £5,500, the same watch today is £10,100. How?
I agree, the concept of value/price has changed dramatically, plus you do not have to go back that far to see it. I have been interested in a JLC Reverso and when I started looking in mid 2020 the model was around £5,500, the same watch today is £10,100. How?
Yowza! The Don Draper effect.
Ball are quite underrated in my opinion, they have a great history and they price their watches realistically.
Get one whilst you can before the prices inevitably go up. Good luck
Yup, I think the same about the brand. I have it on my bucket list. Would take a Marvelight before an OP everytime
Simply fascinating 🧐
Rolexes are legendary! Time for other watch brands to make a legendary mark👍👌😊❤🙏
I wish the fat capitalism wasn't just pulling the prices up everyday and demanding more and more for nothing but this is the world we live in i hope the seiko that u mentioned just stay that way and doesn't becomes a new rolex that costs an arm and leg
Soooo true.many watches MSRP’s are RIDICULOUS!!!& the Bidenflation isn’t helping either.