Case diameter + watch girl thoughts.

There is a lot of data to sift through when looking at watches. The first measurement most people consider is case diameter. As many brands embrace a trend towards smaller watches, I’m curious if this has affected anyone’s perception of the smaller options entering the market.

My wrists are around 5.75 inches, and I’ve found that sub-38mm looks “right,” but many of the watches I like are larger than that. It’s tough to know if I like those larger watches because of their design alone or because they have a significant wrist presence.

I’ve found a lot of joy in smaller versions of original references (thinking of Hamilton’s Khaki Aviation lineup from earlier this year, or the 36mm the Twelve from CW). They fit me so much better, so I should be happy, right?

But there’s sometimes a nagging thought that they feel like… a toy version of a grown-up watch. I think a lot of this stems from my experiences as a young woman in watches—whether it’s comments from disgruntled watchmakers in my reviews, or the myriad various reminders that I’m not the intended audience, (at least the first round) for many of the watches I want to buy.

I know not every woman likes large watches, but I’m wondering if there’s a subconscious part of those who do that use it as a way to take up more space and not feel like they are relegated to a different arena.

I don’t think I feel this way for watches that are only offered in a smaller size. It only seems to crop up when considering two differently sized options for the same model. Maybe in a few years, if we’re squarely in the “small sizes = good” camp, more women will feel like they have a space here. For now, it seems to me that we’re in a positive transition phase, but it’s one with occasional growing pains.

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I like a whole range from 29mm to 42mm. A big watch with wrist presence looks different and gives a whole other vibe and I also enjoy it.

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seattlegirrlie

I like a whole range from 29mm to 42mm. A big watch with wrist presence looks different and gives a whole other vibe and I also enjoy it.

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These look amazing! I do enjoy a big watch with some presence… but hitting it on stuff gets a little old. 😅

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I have a 7" wrist and I find the "toy watch" narrative in the community tiresome.

One of my favourite recent purchases is a 36mm Vaer S3. It has a legible dial, and really disappears on wrist when I don't need to know the time.

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When I'm not rocking a 36mm watch, I'm often wearing a 38mm one...

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I actually find most of my 42mm watches too big these days, apart from my Sea Quartz 30. If it was good enough for Magnum, it's good enough for me!

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I second the comments of @KristianG.

One very helpful comment I heard from an AD rep about a year ago, cemented my thoughts on this matter. As I viewed the display tables in his shop, and fitted certain popular brands and models on wrist, I mentioned to him that I wanted to fit the watches first before buying since I have 6.25-inch wrists. I was wary of certain models looking too big on wrist. The rep agreed with a smile and said, "Yes, it's best to fit a watch first, than buy something that will look like a water meter on your wrist."

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minutemeg

These look amazing! I do enjoy a big watch with some presence… but hitting it on stuff gets a little old. 😅

Too right! I have a 43mm Laco Kiel 2 which is at the top end for my wrist size. The one time I wore it on my right wrist (cos I already had one on my left) I bashed it on a doorway and got my first ding.

It was a bit like when my cat was ill and had to wear a cone on his head - he couldn’t understand why he couldn’t fit through the normal gaps!

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That's a side of the watch size dilemma I hadn't considered. Regarding "intended audiences," the term is only really useful when explaining why something doesn't appeal to someone outside of the intended audience. It's not some club you need permission to enter in order to be qualified to like, wear, or speak on a watch. Products get used by Unintended Audiences all the time. The extra success can occasionally strain supply for a bit, but that's part of business. Twisting the challenges of unforeseen levels of success into a problem to blame on the Unintended Audience for appreciating the product is backwards thinking, and I think people trying to claim a woman wearing a "man's watch" is problematic can be safely ignored, even if it comes from the people behind making the watch.

Desire for wrist presence is a funny thing because it truly does just scale the watches we like up and down in a way that seems somewhat arbitrary. It's also not necessarily consistent for any one person. Some days are small watch or black shirt days, and other days are large watch or red shirt days. The way you feel can dictate how much presence you're looking for. I don't think there's anything objectively wrong with going to either end of the scale, large or small, regardless of man/woman and wrist size, as long as you feel it's the amount of presence you want and like the way it fits and looks.

There is something to be said for wondering if the desire for presence is influenced by what other people have said you should or shouldn't do, but I wouldn't say it's wrong to allow that to influence you. The only reason to be careful is, if the crowd telling you that you shouldn't wear something dies down, the resulting influence on your interest in presence may reduce as well. What I'd be wondering, especially with things as expensive as watches can be, is whether I would enjoy having that much wrist presence without the feeling that I'm sending a message to the people who said I shouldn't wear it. If the answer feels like no, then I might not want to spend a lot of money on a watch that I might start feeling is too big for me after people stop saying stupid things to me.

That said, not only is it very possible you just like a lot of wrist presence when you're in the mood for it, but risking eventually finding the watch too big is not necessarily sufficient reason to not rock it while you want to. There will always be small watches out there that you can wear when you aren't feeling Big Watch Feelings, and people's tastes change, just a part of being people. Size is one of a hundred things that we who spend too much time thinking about our watches can grow weary of, but that's the risk you take when you go for some impact. The spirited watches that give you something to grow tired of are also the watches that give you something to love. Playing it safer with boring watches isn't for everyone, and rocking something you think is a hell of a watch for as long as you feel that way is an entirely valid course to take through this hobby.

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I know exactly how you feel. That’s how I felt when I had my IWC Pilot 36. Don’t get me wrong. It was an amazing watch. But I felt like it was a miniature version of the “real thing”. I eventually bought a Mark. It turned out to be fine on my wrist. Some watches are supposed to be bold. I still prefer smaller watches but I’m not that fussed about case size alone anymore.

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I disagree with the notion smaller watches are the ‘toy version’. I have a 7.25inch wrist and don’t own anything larger than 38mm. I’ll always opt for the ‘classically proportioned’ version. It gives the watch a more refined look with less empty dial space. The watch should be sympathetic to your wrist size. After all, it’s your watch there for your benefit, not the benefit of the watch brand with its stand out, blingy oversized aesthetic. Remember also that a watch is a bio-mechanical tool that needs nothing more than the motion of your wrist to keep time. I think design should honour the bio bit, to give us something that is a natural extension of ourselves.

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Very interesting! Thanks for sharing the perspective.

I have some jumbled thoughts, but nothing too coherent to add.

I think there are some cases where we should be thinking of it the other way around. The 36mm Datejust is the "real" model imo. The larger versions are not as well proportioned and don't look as good.

On the other hand, there is also the simple problem of complications. Larger watches fit larger movements, and that means small watches can often be simpler or quartz-only.

When it comes to women-centric models, there are so few designed to be small in the luxury space. Cartier is leading the pack by far, with notable models from Bulgari and Van Cleef & Arples, but for those looking for something more toolish or less stylized, there just aren't many options that don't play second fiddle to the main releases. It's not a coincidence that jewellers are leading the way in this regard.

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I hear you on the 'toy version' argument. It's like, "Awww, it's almost like the real thing. Isn't that adorable?" And I think once you have that perception, it's hard to shake. Of course, some people don't have that perception and, to them, this is heresy. But it's one of those, "When you see it, you see it..." kinds of things. So I get where you're coming from.

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But at least the last years have shown a positive trend to smaller sized watches, which I personally enjoy and endorse. If the modern watch world still doesn't offer what you want there's always the vintage market 😉👌

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Currently wearing my playful white and baby blue Baby-G that I shopped in the women's section of the Casio website. I can safely say I always prefer the smaller size when given the option and screw what everyone else thinks. I know what looks best on my wrist and I don't care about some out-of-touch brand gendering watches. Toxic masculinity is a disease.

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If you like/enjoy bigger pieces

Buy them and just rock them

No reason you can’t have your cake and eat it too

I have 7inch wrists and wear 36-42mm pieces

But I am more governed by the lug to lug of a piece more so than the diameter

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I have a 5.5 in wrist. Between the BB54 and BB58 I went for the BB58. Even though its bigger, I just loved the look of it more.

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I also tend to enjoy larger case sizes than smaller ones.

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I have a small wrist: man, round 6 inches, and hairy as an ape 😁. My favourite watches are 36-40mm and sometimes I see my 36mm watches as toy versions of the real thing.

But I know that nobody gives a F. about my watch and only my opinion is important.

My mind works in an anti-trend way, so lately, I feel 41.5 mm as comfortable watches.

The watch is just a piece in a big puzzle of your look, clothes, shoes, haircut, makup, body posture and body language...

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If I'm really honest, I wonder if there's a surplus of analysis.

I have a 19cm wrist. And disproportionately large hands

40mm feels a bit large to me.

My go too watches have tended to 38. Except fleigers.

Some decent sized watches look a little toyish on me.

"Feminine" even.

And I have zero f***s to give. About what anybody else thinks. I like them.

You. Do. You

After all, you are the best person to do You

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Bigger watches are fun and playful, smaller are for elegance and sophistication. The fair sex can wear anything, its all good.

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I think that the watch industry is slowly starting to take women more seriously as watch consumers. We will know that certain lessons are starting to take when we see more watches with a better fit, rather than just a variety of sizes. Fit can be achieved with the shape of the case or the curvature of the lugs. Integrated bracelets rarely are the friend of the small wristed.

Almost every day I wear a "toy size" or "boy's size" watch on a fairly standard sized wrist. But, I am an outlier. I hope that trends continue and you increasingly find what you want to wear.

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Dallen

That's a side of the watch size dilemma I hadn't considered. Regarding "intended audiences," the term is only really useful when explaining why something doesn't appeal to someone outside of the intended audience. It's not some club you need permission to enter in order to be qualified to like, wear, or speak on a watch. Products get used by Unintended Audiences all the time. The extra success can occasionally strain supply for a bit, but that's part of business. Twisting the challenges of unforeseen levels of success into a problem to blame on the Unintended Audience for appreciating the product is backwards thinking, and I think people trying to claim a woman wearing a "man's watch" is problematic can be safely ignored, even if it comes from the people behind making the watch.

Desire for wrist presence is a funny thing because it truly does just scale the watches we like up and down in a way that seems somewhat arbitrary. It's also not necessarily consistent for any one person. Some days are small watch or black shirt days, and other days are large watch or red shirt days. The way you feel can dictate how much presence you're looking for. I don't think there's anything objectively wrong with going to either end of the scale, large or small, regardless of man/woman and wrist size, as long as you feel it's the amount of presence you want and like the way it fits and looks.

There is something to be said for wondering if the desire for presence is influenced by what other people have said you should or shouldn't do, but I wouldn't say it's wrong to allow that to influence you. The only reason to be careful is, if the crowd telling you that you shouldn't wear something dies down, the resulting influence on your interest in presence may reduce as well. What I'd be wondering, especially with things as expensive as watches can be, is whether I would enjoy having that much wrist presence without the feeling that I'm sending a message to the people who said I shouldn't wear it. If the answer feels like no, then I might not want to spend a lot of money on a watch that I might start feeling is too big for me after people stop saying stupid things to me.

That said, not only is it very possible you just like a lot of wrist presence when you're in the mood for it, but risking eventually finding the watch too big is not necessarily sufficient reason to not rock it while you want to. There will always be small watches out there that you can wear when you aren't feeling Big Watch Feelings, and people's tastes change, just a part of being people. Size is one of a hundred things that we who spend too much time thinking about our watches can grow weary of, but that's the risk you take when you go for some impact. The spirited watches that give you something to grow tired of are also the watches that give you something to love. Playing it safer with boring watches isn't for everyone, and rocking something you think is a hell of a watch for as long as you feel that way is an entirely valid course to take through this hobby.

Excellent thoughts! I feel like it’s not something I think about all the time, but it’s something I’m aware of when purchasing a new watch. I wouldn’t choose the larger model just to be contrarian, but it’s also tough when the only option is 42mm+ and it feels almost comically large. I agree with you to buy what I like and ignore the hecklers. 😉

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It's interesting that even ladies feel that way. I thought it's just with men who feel emasculated by a girls watch. I certainly get the thinking. Dive watches are big and big watches look bad on me so dive watches are not meant for me. Buying a smaller one feels putting on a costume. I love the Panerai look. But would I buy a version sized for me? No, I believe that's not a watch design meant for someone of my size. It would always feel wrong.

That said, I think it goes both ways and some watches in large sizes are just weirdly inappropriate because when they are scaled up usually the movement is kept and that starts throwing off proportions. Nobody will ever convince that the Datejust II was a good idea. So I don't mind owning the smaller versions of the era. The same is true for the PRX 40, that thing just feels wrong. The movement is too small putting the date too far inside, the face is too big, the indexes are disproportionately thin. I think in that instance the 35mm is the size that it's meant to be based on the date window placement alone. That one is perhaps too small for many people, so it isn't meant for them.

You can't have it all. Accepting that is part of being an adult. Obviously all just my irrelevant opinion.

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Personally I’ve always felt that “women’s“ watches are generally a scam and they tend to pander. More concerned with looks than comfort or durability. I firmly believe that watches aren’t gendered, and people should wear what they like.

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I get what you are saying and agree. But in last few years more options are coming out and this male/female size and design narative is going away. Hate it when smaller watches are all blinged and in best case with lesser movement.

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There is something coherent and wonderful about the proportions of many large watches. When there’s a 38mm & a 42mm version of a watch, the strap or bracelet often doesn’t change to really make an identical look at two sizes. If it started as the large version, the small could be a compromised vision. Small details can make or break a look.

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My wife loves watches but she has no interest in talking about them online. She wears a large variety of sizes depending on what she’s wearing or how she feels. She is quite comfortable wearing her 46mm Khaki Pilot Day Date on her 5.5” wrist.

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When I say she has a wide range of sizes, it’s a really, really wide range.

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I’m male with 6.1 inch wrist and I often feel the same way as you do. But there are exceptions. When I wear Reverso or Santos (both medium), I feel that those are more true to original than larger models, which makes me happy that I have small wrists even if it’s temporary 😊

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It's funny when I started the watch journey I used to only buy watches between 40-45 range. Now a day I have to say that margin has shrunk to 37-42... I don't know if it's the trend that has changed my perception, the fact watches in the smaller range don't look gaudy, or a lot of the people I follow on social media have small wrists 😆 it is an interesting topic and glad we are having this discussion. Just to add a little bit more of my nonsense, I find lug to lug measurement more important on my wrist than case diameter. Have a great weekend everyone!

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I’m 5’8” (and a half lol) and my wrists fit the bill as well. I personally love smaller watches. They look better on me and are a lot more comfortable.

I'm so glad that we're transitioning to the classic proportions of watches. I'm a member of the itty bitty tiny wrist committee as a dude who has 6" wrists. A few years ago, a lot of the watches I like were 42 and above and if they made the smaller version it would have been smaller than 36. Now they are making them in my sweet spot of 38-40. 🥳🥰

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The most experience I have with smaller watches/watches designed for women is my wife. She prefers larger watches. Having said that: The last watch I purchased was tiny https://www.watchcrunch.com/TimeJunkie/posts/update-on-my-wife-s-birthday-watch-336417Watches are jewelry. Some days my wife wants something that makes a statement. Some days she prefers a watch that accents other jewelry. IMO, a watch should make the wearer happy. I have seen your posts & watches. You have a great style. I appreciate your posts. You are a true collector. I say wear a watch that you love.

I do agree with your thought that smaller case watches seem to be a toy version of a larger model. My wife's Cartier is tiny. She wanted a mechanical versus quartz movement. Her thinking was that a watch at this price point either has a mechanical movement or something high accuracy if it's quartz (think Grand Seiko). My wife has ear hustled enough of my watch conversations to have a strong watch knowledge. It is a shame that so many smaller cased watches see to be an afterthought or are hyper blinged out.

Since I'm rambling . This is a link to a post on my wife's daily driver watch box. https://www.watchcrunch.com/TimeJunkie/posts/my-wife-s-watchbox-28703

All of those watches are steel except the ceramic Michelle (she loves the bracelet fit on this watch) and the white gold B&M.

This is a pic of my wife wearing my Gold Radiomir. She claims we now co-own that watch (probably right) I still call it a temporary hijacking She looks beautiful & the watch looks incredible on her wrist. Case size doesn't matter

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