Expensive Microbrands

I've kinda set what I call my "Rolex price", and thats $750. I'm a banged up fixed income guy and it's important to have a budget limit. To me $750 watch is a Rolex and I'm OK with that. It is what it is and as long as I can enjoy your watch through WC, added bonus!!👍 Now, all that white trash shit aside I love everything about NTH. A micro with perfect specs, cool dials and bracelet to boot. Don't have one YET but one day...

I would say there are only a few I would spend over a grand on, but still never have.

I think most expensive microbrands make great value watches. Formex immediately comes to mind as a top quality watch maker, putting COSC ETA movements in $2000 dive watches. Then there is Norqain using Kenissi movements. 
 

Some microbrands do niche high horology work like anOrdain ceramic dials or Kudoke doing all hand finished movement, dial, and case work. You just can’t get this level of craftsmanship from a major brand for anywhere near the price. 
 

The only issues with microbrands is that they don’t have much in the way of equity. Should you want to part with the watch, it will often be at a heavy loss or will take a considerable amount of time to sell. Also, what about service?  Will the brand even be around when service is needed?

It’s a tough decision as micro brands often can give you some really great value. I collect micro brands but  at a high enough price point I consider what a more traditional choice can offer especially with service needs and resell ( to an extent ) there certainly is not a right way or rule book to watch collecting. Buy what speaks to you and will enjoy seeing on your wrist, my journey has taken me to all corners of the watch world and micro brands are a big part now days.  Enjoy the journey !

I think there are two question to answer first. 

What is a microbrand? Do they need to produce watches at certain price points or is it about history or about number of watches made per year? Then RM or F.P. Journe might be Microbrands. As far as I understand it you mean more unknown brands which aren't that old. 

Second question is what is cheap? I think that can only be answered individuality. 

I think the main "problem" is that you probably will "lose" more money when you want to sell it. There are probably less people out there who wants to buy that watch too so the price for selling is probably lower than the price of a well now swiss brand for example. (Of course that is not the case for every watch, Ming is selling about retail I think). But I think that should not be part of the decision to buy a watch. Why do you think about selling it before you even get it? If that is the case maybe you shouldn't buy the watch. 

For me personally the main problem with microbrands is that there is normally no opportunity to go somewhere to see them. I like to see a watch a few times before I pull the trigger. Of course you can send the watch back if you doesn't like it but you probably need some days or weeks to decide. Maybe it's too late then to send the watch back. So buying pre owned might be an option when you're scared of "losing" to much money and the watch is available in the secondary market. 

On the other hand I think its really great and important that those small brands exist. They can only survive if people buying their watches. Okay there are some money making machines out there. But a lot of brands are founded by enthusiast like us. They care about their watches and their quality. Why shouldn't we support that? No matter whether the watch is price is as long as it is reasonable. 

At the end of the day the only question that is relevant is whether you like the watch or not. It's a hobby, a passion not an asset class in the first place. Tourby for example is a small brand in Hagen, Germany. I love their diver on photos but the bezel just didn't appeal to me. What would I've done when the bezel would suit me? I think would have spend the 1.5k immediately. And why? Just because I like the watch. 

Looks, specs >> buy

If I dont feel cheated by the specs and they offer smth I consider unique/high value, then im ok to spend. I dont worry much about equity since I usually dont sell my watches (rather, im a picky chooser).

The only thing I wont deal with is constant limited editions and/or supply that force you pay 3x msrp on the grey market. Something many microbrands suffer from. I dont mind waiting for smth I want, im just not going to bother with microbrands putting out 50 watches then moving on to producing 50 of another model, so on so forth. The Zelos way pf doing business, no thank you.

I recently booked a build slot for an Anordain, starting June 2026, I should have the watch by end of 2026. Doesnt bother me because I know ill get it, at a price I know and agreed upon. I like that.

First comes defining expensive. To one anything under $2500 may not be expensive. To others anything over $1000 is expensive. 

To me it starts with the specs. Followed by build quality, originality, and yes, how they do aftermarket. Note, this is the same formula I apply to all watches, not just micro. If the aftermarket is immediately 30-50% of the price, I am not buying at retail. Do not care if that is Monta, IWC, or even Omega.

On the otherhand, if they are offering something truly unique, perhaps limited, and the specs match the price, I will (and have) gladly supported them. 

All depends on the quality and the after sales service.

I have 2 Christopher Wards and I can tell you that they excel on both those categories.

I think the question is wrong. I don’t care if the watch company is new and a microbrand. It‘s all about the watch, so yes, I will pay. There are the usual limitations of not being able to try the watch on, and having to wait for a youtuber to show it etc. But the question is not whether it is a microbrand or not. If a new restaurant started in your city, and it looked upscale and with good chefs and a really appealing menu, and your friend had an amazing meal, would you then insist on only paying 50% because the restaurant was new?? The question should instead be on design, quality, finishing, measurements…

Many questions indeed. Good approach though!

It's indeed not about the brand beeing a microband, more about in what buying a watch from a microbrand differs from buying one from a regular brand. And with expensive microbrands, the "problems" comming with the brand beeing so small usually hit harder: for example, buying a 200$ watch without beeing able to try it on might be something at least some watchguys will do, but a with watch in the thousands (or even a custom) it's a whole other story

I wouldn't worry too much about eventual service or repairs as most micros, even in the upper price range (>1k I guess), usually have standard movements and crystals that every watchmaker can fix. 

High-end ones - I don't know where their prices even start, 10k? - with bespoke movements, complications etc. are a different beast - one that might merit a thread of its own.

Yeah that would be my grail price. 

Maybe for this.

I've never bought a micro even though some of them are very good looking.   

They spend way too much on included accessories and fancy boxes etc. So often they are just over my comfortable price range. 

They almost always include leather which I'm against due to all the shit that goes on in that industry. 

And they lack the digital timers that I really want so my watch can always cover all my uses and not need to swap all the time. 

And I'm only really looking for upgrades that are perfect rather than just additions that look good. 

Not sure if Horage considers themselves a microbrand or an independent but I’m fully hyped for the Supersede incoming next year 

I have a couple of what I consider to be expensive microbrands: an Oak and Oscar Olmsted and a Monta Noble. (I also just paid my deposit for next year for a third, an anOrdain.)

The only downside imo is resale value, which I know might be lower than a comparable big brand watch. But that downside is very much offset for me by a few factors. First, I was especially drawn to the design of the two I have. Second, I like having a product from a smaller company that has more of a human connection; both Oak and Oscar and Monta are excellent in this respect in communication with customers, and cultivating a community around their brands. Third, I like having watches that are a little less common than the big brands.

In terms of quality, I think they match up with big brands in the same price bracket. I also have an Oris and a Seiko in the $1000-$2000 range, and the Oak and Oscar and Monta pieces I have easily match them in finishing, attention to detail, etc.

I don't think service is a big worry, since most microbrands use Seiko, ETA, or Sellita movements. My O&O has an ETA and my Monta has a Sellita. I guess if the brands go out of business then sourcing replacement hands or crowns or other parts could be a problem, but that seems like a pretty small issue.

I like some of the microbrands. In fact, I just ordered a Hoffman watch (in purple) for around $200. I don't see myself paying $1000 or more for a microbrand when I can get a new or lightly used name brand for just a little more (e.g., Hamilton, Tissot etc.). Also, the high-end Japanese watches (Citizen Attesa, Casio Oceanus, Seiko Astron) are superb and can be had for around $1000 new.

I tend to look much more closely at microbrands under $1000, particularly $500 or less. Many do well selling a limited number of a particular collection, deliberately limiting availability to drive up demand, ala Moonswatch. But this means that by the time I discover a collection that I like from a microbrand, it is sold out and I can't buy it. This has happened to me a few times.

Of course, when you look at microbrands under $1000, then the competition includes some of the Chinese watches that use the same movements (Seiko, Miyota, Suggess, etc.) that are often priced less than similar microbrand watches.

Max would be 1000 ish for a micro/independent brand for me . In fact I am contemplating a P1 Aera at 1100 quid.

Better off just keeping your microbands imo. 

There are some excellent expensive microbrands out there.  Monta, Christopher Ward, Ginault all make great watches that compare favorably to mainstream luxury brands.  Some may worry about resale value, but since I've never sold a watch that's not an issue for me.  I'm no more likely to sell my Montas as I am to sell my Omegas.  

A microbrand you might like to look at is Venezianico, an Italian company making quality watches with outsourced movements from Seiko and Sellita. 

The trouble with most Microbrands is the banality of their designs. They have all the originality of a cardboard box. If I see one more Submariner lookalike......

Microbrands typically source watches from mass producers in China, cobbling together off-the-shelf components and slapping a Swiss-sounding name on the dial. They have all the charm and uniqueness of an Invicta, but, in fairness, at least Invicta are honest about the crappiness of their designs and don't wax lyrical about them - their marketing is bog-simple - here's a gaudy, shiny thing that we price at $10,000 and sell for $99 to make you feel like you got a bargain.

Too many microbrands fall over themselves gushing how unique their designs are, and how extraordinary the materials are. As though no-one has ever seen a Casio before.

I found Venezianico to be quite different. They have a panache that is very Italian, with designs and colors I have no seen anywhere else, and the build quality is really good. They're a solid feeling watch, with good wrist presence.

I bought a Red Redentore and liked the color so much that I followed up with a Blue one. No other company produces watches with such cheerful dials  and they are perfect summer watches, worn at the beach, in T-Shirts and casual situations. I love the playfulness of them.

I encourage you to take look. Very well-priced too.