The illusion of the "Perfect Watch"
I've struggled to add an everyday diver into my collection recently. The BB58 and it's many variants come close, but I also like many of the features from the Pelagos line.
This got my thinking, why is it so hard to find the perfect watch? Is this an illusion? Or are these companies so good at keeping perfection just out of reach so we keep on our futile journey...
What's your perfect everyday diver? Watch the vid for my struggles 😂
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Captain Crunch
Co-founder of WatchCrunch; Inventor of the Zero Pass strap.
United States
Member since
Last active: 34 min ago
16.51 cm
I have tons of perfect watches. Every watch I buy is the perfect watch for at least a day or two.
Then I see one that's perfecter and then a couple days later another that's even perfecterer.
Anyone seen The Last Samurai, with Ken Watanabe‘s character describing it perfectly: “One could spend a lifetime looking for the perfect blossom, and it would not be a wasted life.”
and then (Spoiler alert) when he’s dying in Tommie‘s arms his last breath is spent saying: “They [blosssoms] are all perfect.”
Just insert watches for blossoms, and that’s about where I’m at.
I have tons of perfect watches. Every watch I buy is the perfect watch for at least a day or two.
Then I see one that's perfecter and then a couple days later another that's even perfecterer.
My watches are so perfect, they can't get perfecter 🤣
Anyone seen The Last Samurai, with Ken Watanabe‘s character describing it perfectly: “One could spend a lifetime looking for the perfect blossom, and it would not be a wasted life.”
and then (Spoiler alert) when he’s dying in Tommie‘s arms his last breath is spent saying: “They [blosssoms] are all perfect.”
Just insert watches for blossoms, and that’s about where I’m at.
That's good stuff... Wish I was more Zen about my watch obsession 😅
That's good stuff... Wish I was more Zen about my watch obsession 😅
The madness overwhelms us all.
there are too many good option. maybe we all should learn to appreciate what we have 😂 ( 2 cent for my stingy personality )
there are too many good option. maybe we all should learn to appreciate what we have 😂 ( 2 cent for my stingy personality )
Yes, appreciate what we have and be challenged by watches that might at the outset turn us off. It's interesting to see how my taste has evolved over the years 🤔
I've come to realise as a watch addict, that it is way too painful an emotional struggle to think of ONE perfect watch.
Recently I got a chance to meet (and try) what I've long considered to be a potential perfect one-watch collection - the Rolex Explorer 124270. And I cannot even begin to explain the disappointment I felt upon trying it. Don't get me wrong - it is a great watch and wore well on my very thin wrist. But as a watch, it bored me to death.
And also, I started to notice that the new Explorer now really struggles to define what it wants to be - the white gold 3-6-9 numeric indices make it look very dressy and it doesn't have as much of the 'sports' appeal of the other Rolex sports models. So the Explorer is neither a dress nor sports watch and tries to straddle both i.e. what would make it the perfect one-watch for many, turned out to turn me off completely.
That led me to a realisation that not only have my tastes changed, I also have become more specific as to what I like about every watch. The biggest realisation is that I will never be happy to be a ONE watch guy - which is the epitome of the ideology of a 'Perfect' watch.
And so what I've instead migrated now to is a 'Collection State of Mind'. So I'd rather have several 'near perfect' watches that complement each other and I know very clearly what I like about each one that they each stand alone on their respective pedestals.
To cut a long story short, I remain a watch addict - and instead of keeping the Explorer on my wishlist, I went ahead and upgraded my Snowflake to the White Birch Spring Drive - a watch that spoke emotionally to me more in so many ways than the experience I had with the Explorer.
Will my tastes continue to evolve? Definitely!
Will I potentially eat my words on the Explorer down the line? Possibly!
Am I happier now than I was at the time of dissecting my Explorer disappointment? Yes!
I've come to realise as a watch addict, that it is way too painful an emotional struggle to think of ONE perfect watch.
Recently I got a chance to meet (and try) what I've long considered to be a potential perfect one-watch collection - the Rolex Explorer 124270. And I cannot even begin to explain the disappointment I felt upon trying it. Don't get me wrong - it is a great watch and wore well on my very thin wrist. But as a watch, it bored me to death.
And also, I started to notice that the new Explorer now really struggles to define what it wants to be - the white gold 3-6-9 numeric indices make it look very dressy and it doesn't have as much of the 'sports' appeal of the other Rolex sports models. So the Explorer is neither a dress nor sports watch and tries to straddle both i.e. what would make it the perfect one-watch for many, turned out to turn me off completely.
That led me to a realisation that not only have my tastes changed, I also have become more specific as to what I like about every watch. The biggest realisation is that I will never be happy to be a ONE watch guy - which is the epitome of the ideology of a 'Perfect' watch.
And so what I've instead migrated now to is a 'Collection State of Mind'. So I'd rather have several 'near perfect' watches that complement each other and I know very clearly what I like about each one that they each stand alone on their respective pedestals.
To cut a long story short, I remain a watch addict - and instead of keeping the Explorer on my wishlist, I went ahead and upgraded my Snowflake to the White Birch Spring Drive - a watch that spoke emotionally to me more in so many ways than the experience I had with the Explorer.
Will my tastes continue to evolve? Definitely!
Will I potentially eat my words on the Explorer down the line? Possibly!
Am I happier now than I was at the time of dissecting my Explorer disappointment? Yes!
I totally get that. I had the exact same experience when I tried on the "Tiffany blue" OP. It was so disappointing that I had an existential moment. The dial looked cheap and the markers were very underwhelming. I was like "is this a fake?!"
Just to show you, we all take our own paths, the biggest thing I've learned as a collector is to trust my instincts and impressions.
@Max I can see your dilemma with the BB58 dial with its variety of shapes, but I personally find the round hour markers a welcome design feature.
I personally like how the round markers recall the case, bezel, and dial (and even the pip) shape while the stick markers recall the markers on the bezel. The triangle at 12 also recalls the red triangle on the bezel.
While it’s an admittedly busy dial, I think it’s balanced well with the text that’s present on it. The same cannot be said for the Explorer 124270 which to me is a near perfect watch. The three lines of text stacked under the crown feel crowded and unbalanced with the two lines of lighter weighted text on the lower portion of the dial.
The rivets though, yeah, those can go. And the stepped taper to the bracelet is a little clunky but not super noticeable. That said, I think they really got so much right with the BB58.
In so far as the concept of the perfect watch, I think any given watch’s proximity to perfection changes based on how the wearer is feeling on the day they put it on their wrist, what they’re wearing that day, and what image and history they want to project and tap into.
Some days, certain watches just feel better and make you feel better. And as enthusiasts and collectors we’re fortunate to have options to match these varying factors.
I totally get that. I had the exact same experience when I tried on the "Tiffany blue" OP. It was so disappointing that I had an existential moment. The dial looked cheap and the markers were very underwhelming. I was like "is this a fake?!"
Just to show you, we all take our own paths, the biggest thing I've learned as a collector is to trust my instincts and impressions.
You summed it up perfectly by calling it an ‘existential moment’. I also learnt in my own ‘moment’ of the age old wisdom of perhaps not meeting your heroes! 😅
Having said that I have the same thoughts as you have about that elusive snowflake dial Tudor Submariner.
I also have friends that play this game (just as we all do as enthusiasts) which I call ‘if only this watch had ……’. I have to admit it is a great way to prevent irresponsible procurement though!
But I guess what matters most is as a completely unique individual, as to a point you alluded to in your video, you yourself are absolutely clear as to why the watch appeals to you and you only. It gets incredibly hard these days to do that with social media and the hive mind that exists particularly with hypebeasts!
You summed it up perfectly by calling it an ‘existential moment’. I also learnt in my own ‘moment’ of the age old wisdom of perhaps not meeting your heroes! 😅
Having said that I have the same thoughts as you have about that elusive snowflake dial Tudor Submariner.
I also have friends that play this game (just as we all do as enthusiasts) which I call ‘if only this watch had ……’. I have to admit it is a great way to prevent irresponsible procurement though!
But I guess what matters most is as a completely unique individual, as to a point you alluded to in your video, you yourself are absolutely clear as to why the watch appeals to you and you only. It gets incredibly hard these days to do that with social media and the hive mind that exists particularly with hypebeasts!
I did the same thing with a car when I was young and foolish. I bought my dream car, and realized it would never live up to what I had made it out to be in my mind. I ended up selling it at a loss, and learning a lesson.
Tastes change, and what was the "perfect" watch in our minds might end up being "meh" on wrist.
Instead of chasing the perfect watch, now I focus on watches that fill a space in my collection. Not a space like dress, diver, flieger, etc., but more a mood, like "drinking beer by a campfire", "paddling down the Rideau Canal", or "driving on a road trip".
Yes, appreciate what we have and be challenged by watches that might at the outset turn us off. It's interesting to see how my taste has evolved over the years 🤔
Good point. Originally I didn’t care for the snowflake hands, but then I realized it really differentiated the hour hand like no other design. Now I love it, and have two Pelagos…es.
@Max I can see your dilemma with the BB58 dial with its variety of shapes, but I personally find the round hour markers a welcome design feature.
I personally like how the round markers recall the case, bezel, and dial (and even the pip) shape while the stick markers recall the markers on the bezel. The triangle at 12 also recalls the red triangle on the bezel.
While it’s an admittedly busy dial, I think it’s balanced well with the text that’s present on it. The same cannot be said for the Explorer 124270 which to me is a near perfect watch. The three lines of text stacked under the crown feel crowded and unbalanced with the two lines of lighter weighted text on the lower portion of the dial.
The rivets though, yeah, those can go. And the stepped taper to the bracelet is a little clunky but not super noticeable. That said, I think they really got so much right with the BB58.
In so far as the concept of the perfect watch, I think any given watch’s proximity to perfection changes based on how the wearer is feeling on the day they put it on their wrist, what they’re wearing that day, and what image and history they want to project and tap into.
Some days, certain watches just feel better and make you feel better. And as enthusiasts and collectors we’re fortunate to have options to match these varying factors.
Yes it's precisely because the BB58 gets so much right that I keep coming back to it. But I'm just a minimalist when it comes to design. Aesthetics is a very personal, subjective matter 😅
I did the same thing with a car when I was young and foolish. I bought my dream car, and realized it would never live up to what I had made it out to be in my mind. I ended up selling it at a loss, and learning a lesson.
Tastes change, and what was the "perfect" watch in our minds might end up being "meh" on wrist.
Instead of chasing the perfect watch, now I focus on watches that fill a space in my collection. Not a space like dress, diver, flieger, etc., but more a mood, like "drinking beer by a campfire", "paddling down the Rideau Canal", or "driving on a road trip".
Wow that's next level collection building based on moods. I'm still in the "flieger, diver" phase 😅
my problem is that i have 20 perfect watches. and i'm afraid there will soon be more...
Wow that's next level collection building based on moods. I'm still in the "flieger, diver" phase 😅
Well, once I figured out that I like pilot's, and diver's watches, and don't like dress watches, or chronographs, I had to come up with new excuses to buy watches... 🤣
The less "artsy" way to describe my through process is, "Can I envision myself in a likely situation where this is the perfect watch? If not perfect, noticeably better than what I already own?"
No need to look for the one perfect watch, IMO.
To me the watch hobby is more like dating than marriage.
It’s less about finding “Mr./Ms. Right“ and more about finding “Mr./Ms. Right Now.“ 😉😘
Great video! And some very valid points. Personally, my watch collecting journey has taken me through several Black Bays- the original ETA 41mm Black Bay, the BB ETA 41mm Blue, and then the BB58 Blue. Sold them all for one reason or another. And I still have a few Rolexes in the collection- 1680, GMT 16750, a 5 digit no date sub, and a Tudor blue MN 79 Snowflake.
But ultimately, the only watch I wear these days is my Pelagos FXD 21. Is it perfect? No. But for legibility, comfort, history, and sheer ruggedness, it's as close to perfect as I'll ever find in a dive watch. After 3 months of continual wear it still gives me joy just to see it on my wrist.
My first luxury watch was the BB58-blue, and I sometimes wake up at 3 am thinking about the FXD. So this video hits home. And maybe I am biased, but it feels like the BB58 blue should have been canvassed in this video, as it directionally covers the color spectrum of the silver/925(%) (no gilt fauxtina going on), and it allows for the outstanding Tudor steel bracelet option, albeit sans the clear case back. I now have a few other luxury watches with bracelets, so part of me thinks in the long run I'll regret not having held out for the FXD. In any case, cool video Max - thanks!
Great video! And some very valid points. Personally, my watch collecting journey has taken me through several Black Bays- the original ETA 41mm Black Bay, the BB ETA 41mm Blue, and then the BB58 Blue. Sold them all for one reason or another. And I still have a few Rolexes in the collection- 1680, GMT 16750, a 5 digit no date sub, and a Tudor blue MN 79 Snowflake.
But ultimately, the only watch I wear these days is my Pelagos FXD 21. Is it perfect? No. But for legibility, comfort, history, and sheer ruggedness, it's as close to perfect as I'll ever find in a dive watch. After 3 months of continual wear it still gives me joy just to see it on my wrist.
Dude the FXD is such a cool piece! You chose well 👏👏
My first luxury watch was the BB58-blue, and I sometimes wake up at 3 am thinking about the FXD. So this video hits home. And maybe I am biased, but it feels like the BB58 blue should have been canvassed in this video, as it directionally covers the color spectrum of the silver/925(%) (no gilt fauxtina going on), and it allows for the outstanding Tudor steel bracelet option, albeit sans the clear case back. I now have a few other luxury watches with bracelets, so part of me thinks in the long run I'll regret not having held out for the FXD. In any case, cool video Max - thanks!
Yes I like the blue, didn't have space to include the slew of SE BB58 releases the last couple years. If you got the wrist for it, your FXD intuitions may be proven on point 😉
I hope that you enjoy Costa Rica and that it was not raining all time. Great drone videos, I am really jealous! Would love to see more of this amazing view while you are talking. :)
I totally agree with your content, there is no perfect watch. For me the Black Bays are all out due to the tube at the crown, it always looks like it is not screwed in, that annoys me. Oris Divers 65 have a nicer big crown. For me the date window is at most watches the killer. I try to avoid having it^^
I am in the lucky position to live in a big city with multiple ADs and boutiques. So I can try most watches on a few times before taking my decision. However even then I find out later that there are things I don't like.
Great Video, Max. FXD hit the sweet spot for me but none are perfect. 58 case with an FXD dial would slap. Bickering over the details is half the fun these days, isn't it?
it is because we have never found the perfect watch and so we are forever hunting for new watches, watching watchporn on youtube and swiping on IG as though as it is Watch Tinder!
Closest to perfection diver is San Marten 38mm vintage rolex homage.
I hope that you enjoy Costa Rica and that it was not raining all time. Great drone videos, I am really jealous! Would love to see more of this amazing view while you are talking. :)
I totally agree with your content, there is no perfect watch. For me the Black Bays are all out due to the tube at the crown, it always looks like it is not screwed in, that annoys me. Oris Divers 65 have a nicer big crown. For me the date window is at most watches the killer. I try to avoid having it^^
I am in the lucky position to live in a big city with multiple ADs and boutiques. So I can try most watches on a few times before taking my decision. However even then I find out later that there are things I don't like.
I didn't really notice the crown until you just told me... Now I can't unsee it 😂
Great Video, Max. FXD hit the sweet spot for me but none are perfect. 58 case with an FXD dial would slap. Bickering over the details is half the fun these days, isn't it?
Blake you just came up with the tagline for the YouTube channel 😂
I didn't really notice the crown until you just told me... Now I can't unsee it 😂
I am sooo sorry!
I am always wondering why nobody talks about that in the reviews... Maybe I was the only one who could see it^^
I feel the same sentiment the tudor bb58/ pelagos (fxd and pelagos) and now with the bb pro. The lineup is fantastic but its hard to choose. I think of all of them atm the bbpro followed by the fxd make the most sense and ill be trying to get my hands on the pro but that probably wont stop me brooding on the other models offered by tudor.
BBpro for sure........I think...... For now at least...