What we're calling "dress watches" today used to be referred to as "watches" back in the day. No matter whether you wore them with a suit or a sweater.
Menswear aficionado here. So, putting all the well-meaning "if anyone's got a problem with that, tell 'em to FO" encouragements to one side for a second and taking your question seriously, I still think that a discreetly sized diver like the BB54 does just about work - even if it's just because of Connery's old 38mm Sub, which pushed (or rather: forced) divers into the realm of being a tolerable choice for formal attire, as long as they're not too massive. Discretion and being able to slide underneath a cuff is key, and the BB54 is neither particularly loud, nor unwieldily thick.
Baltic MR01, Lorier Zephyr - my initial thoughts. However, shout-out to Söner from Sweden: Small family-owned micro with - apparently - good build quality. And I like Gondolo-like Tanks.
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