Original vintage or reissue?

I'm not talking about a specific watch, just generally speaking, would you/do you choose the original or the reissue and why? Is it purely down to availability or cost?

I ask as I've been looking into vintage poljots recently and discovered what a minefield it is for frankenwatches and fake/unoriginal dials. I know nothing of vintage watch collecting, so maybe it's a common problem across the board. There are plenty of reissues of the famous poljot designs however these can cost more than the originals... but at least with the new reissue you know what you're getting?

Do reissues have the same heritage appeal as the originals? 

Curious to know others opinions. 

(No pictures are mine. I wish!)

Image
Reply
·

Funnily enough i have both the reissue watches in your pictures.

so i guess im in camp reissue!

I do really want the vintage version to.

Image
Image
·

I'm not really an authenticity nerd, so if a reissue is decently faithful (absolutely don't bump up the case size!), I'm fine with that. Of course if you value the history, I don't think one would bother with reissues. I'm not usually a person to own things as conversation pieces, but were I to do so, it had better be a damn near exact replica and not some stage prop with numerous variances.

I'm of two opinions where original authenticity is dicey. Either stop caring altogether, because who cares and stop pretending there is something magic about it all, or call it quits on the lost cause and abandon that pursuit.

Of course if originals are actually around at reasonable prices, I'm in no way scared of not-new items unless there is some notorious fragility or irreparability involved. Vintage has more charm.

I'm torn on reissues, as they are simultaneously cool and lame for the same reasons of virginity, accessibility, and that whiff of authenticity and heritage.

·

A reissue is another poke at a dead horse for more money thinking because it cost more, it's worth it. Bring back New Coke!!!

·

Vintage 9 times out of 10, the 1 being if I plan to dive (etc.) with it.  I know I could get it pressure tested and freshened up, but I'm lazy.

·

I’m a vintage guy… so… At the risk of sounding like a broken record the heart says original, but the head says reissue in most cases. Why? Maintenance and repair. Stuck with an ageing watch with a limited lifespan, and little chance of repair, it’s going to hurt. This is, of course, unless the original is still serviceable after all this time, but that will eventually start to diminish after a while for many brands.

·

I usually prefer a well done reissue over a vintage original. I also prefer to drive a new car over a used or antique model. The main reason is I know the history of the item. I don't trust that a used item hasn't been abused, damaged, or neglected by a careless previous owner. New items usually benefit from improved materials and technological advancements, and are covered by a warranty. This can avoid a lot of aggravation, especially when dealing with a machine built with many delicate moving parts. I can always admire pictures and videos featuring the original vintage pieces, while my reissue reliably ticks away, still covered by a warranty.

·

I would evaluate on a case by case basis. All things being equal, though, I would prefer an original vintage.

Factors that could push me to the reissue would include difficult (i.e. lack of parts) or expensive serviceability of the old movement, tiny vintage sizing, lack of options in an acceptable condition, vintage pricing is way higher, crappy vintage bracelets.

There’s more but that’s all I can come up with now.

·

Vintage watches are an acquired taste. They need a lot of TLC and most are far more fragile than any reissue and require a specialist in vintage watches to properly service. They're fun to wear around the house but for the real world I'll take a reissue. In some cases its nice to have one of each for certain models.

·
foghorn

Vintage watches are an acquired taste. They need a lot of TLC and most are far more fragile than any reissue and require a specialist in vintage watches to properly service. They're fun to wear around the house but for the real world I'll take a reissue. In some cases its nice to have one of each for certain models.

Well… as someone who wears his vintage pieces outside I understand the sentiment, but a watch is for the wearing.  Again, if you know you can get it serviced and repaired without having to resort to major cannibalism and buying the factory, go for it.

·

I am ambivalent about reissues. I think that for tool watch purposes, especially divers, it would be better to get modern technology and a warranty. I like old Bulova. New Bulova reimagining their old catalog isn't for me.  I am sure that they are fine watches.

Regarding Poljot and the like, if you want authentic you must embrace imperfections.  Just like HMT in India, there is a whole industry that will redial and rework anything into a Big Zero and sell it to you.  If you live outside the former Soviet bloc it you can't find pristine pieces. But there is still quality out there, especially after 1980 or so.  I have two Starts from the 1950's coming. They look beat and bleached.  It is always good to compare something for sale to examples. This collection is amazing:  https://mroatman.wixsite.com/watches-of-the-ussr .  I have been able to avoid mismatched bezels, handsets, and dials (especially on Vostok) and be able to see what they should look like compared to what is being offered.  Keep in mind that some of the mismatching may have occurred at the factory originally.

·
Henrik

Funnily enough i have both the reissue watches in your pictures.

so i guess im in camp reissue!

I do really want the vintage version to.

Image
Image

So, out of interest, what makes you want the original also? 

·

I'm really falling for old poljot designs and I'm loving nerding out on all the different movements 🧐

·
Porthole

I’m a vintage guy… so… At the risk of sounding like a broken record the heart says original, but the head says reissue in most cases. Why? Maintenance and repair. Stuck with an ageing watch with a limited lifespan, and little chance of repair, it’s going to hurt. This is, of course, unless the original is still serviceable after all this time, but that will eventually start to diminish after a while for many brands.

This I think is the crux of the matter for me. How much life does this 50 year old watch have left and how much money am I willing to sink into it to maintain it? 🤔

·
DeeperBlue

So, out of interest, what makes you want the original also? 

Well, for me both watches are iconic.

both have played roles in great movies, and the 6105 has a really interesting military history aswell.

As a "collector" i think it would be cool to have the original and the reissue in my collection.

·

I've never purchased a vintage watch for the same reason I've never purchased a used car - deathly afraid of dealing with maintenance.

I can totally see the appeal of going vintage, IFF you are the type of person who loves to tinker with mechanical things and is very good at repairing complex machinery.  I have friends who love nothing more than taking 12 months to painstakingly restore old cars.  Unfortunately, I have the dexterity and mechanical sympathy of a camel, so it's a definite no-go for me.

·

As I have always said to my wife and daughter (which makes me very popular at home) - "Why choose?"

Seriously, I think that both vintage and reissues have their advantages and disadvantages.

Vintage can be a minefield even if you have a level of expertise in a particular reference. I recall my first vintage purchase was almost a disaster. Fortunately, I had an expert I could share my purchase with who immediately told me that I had purchased a frankenwatch. I was able to get a full refund for the purchase and have been very careful ever since.

I think you could use a forum like WatchCrunch to assess both a particular watch you are thinking about and the related dealer who is selling it. To me the most important decision is who are you going to trust.

As far as marketplaces, Etsy is a clear Buyer Beware environment. I would seriously be careful buying from anyone on Etsy. Loads of frankenwatches and misdescribed watches on Etsy.

eBay now has a guarantee program for watches at a certain price level and this is a really good program. Any watches I've purchased on eBay under the program that have had issues, I have been able to receive a full refund. eBay's "experts" don't always catch the problems the watches have, so be really careful before removing the special tags. Make sure everything is properly functioning and delay the gratification of removing the tags until you are certain.

As far as reissues, modern technology for production has reached a level where even many Aliexpress watches are reasonably well made and reliable. Sapphire crystal, great water resistance, stainless steel cases, great strap options, etc. You may give up some of the character of a vintage reference, but gain a lot in not having to experience expensive servicing and repair bills that go together with vintage watch collecting. You could also pursue brands like Lorier which marry vintage style and materials with modern production.

My advice to anyone dipping their toe into vintage watch collecting is - start small and learn. If you purchase a few modest vintage watches from a respected dealer, then you will find out if you really have the desire for collecting vintage. If you decide not, then you haven't invested too much, and you can likely work with the dealers you purchased from to resell the watches.

I'm hopelessly omnivorous and doomed to be chasing after both vintage and reissues.

·

I admire those who collect vintage, but I think that's one romance I don't personally want to get tangled into.😂

With that said, I think I could see myself buying a Rolex or a holy trinity vintage as I know they will service it, though I'm guessing it's going to cost me a new watch. 🤷🏻‍♂️

·

It is a labour of love to a point. I think if a watch can still run, and can be repaired reasonably, then it deserves to live the rest of its days with me as I will wear it and care for it. Call me a romantic, but that’s how I roll.

AuXOI76StBAdKA63Kc7Rj955dH9ZnTwOahNUqpiF.jpeg?h=320&ixlib=php-3.3.1&s=837c7c51154a6953aee8ae50f887e105

Look into that dial and tell me it doesn’t deserve to have a nice new strap and come to work with me, because it will, in all its 15J vintage glory, scars and all.

·

It depends on the price, how close the re-issue is to the original (sometimes things are better in the re-issue), how sketch vintage models on the market are (fake parts, etc.). I know this was not specific, but for the Arnie pictured, I like the re-issue. The solar upgrade means it won't need service for many years, and the new ones are cheap enough to be fairly reachable. The slight size increase over the original is so small as to be negligible vs. the benefits of going new. 

·

depends. But a brand new reissue is definately easier to buy and own, than an old watch where you don't know it's history.

·

The other allure of vintage is volume and price.  This reasonably priced watch costs about $55.00 USD:

Image

All combined, these three watches cost me less:

Image

The plating on the Raketa (c. 1980) is starting to fail, but the movement is great. The Croton (c. 1950) could use a service. The Benrus (c. 1945) has a small chip on the crystal.  These watches are roughly 191 years old.  Chances are that they will be around long after the Swatch has gone into a landfill.  They are quirky and most non-collectors have never seen their like.  There is no reissue that will recreate these.  They are unicorns.

I have a drawer full of failure too.  Today's watch is a glorious frankenwatch.

Maybe the delayed gratification of saving for a "grail" or just a nice diver will build character.  Or maybe I can have a hundred other watches in the meantime.

·

Vintage all the way for me 💯🙌😀!

A re-issue, although authentic since it's produced by the same brand, still remains a reproduction. A reproduction of a watch that is reminiscent of a certain time and era. In my case, there is nothing like finding a well conserved or well aged watch that really is of that time period ⌚👍.

·

Reissue. Watches that are original have issues that o e would expect from an old watch. Plus, for me, the more modern sizing is better. I just cannot rock a 34mm dress watch or a 36mm diver. You also usually benefit from more modern materials and movements.  

·

I go reissue, mostly. I like the reliability and improved technology, and knowing that the dings and scratches are mine and my story.

That’s not to say I’d turn away from vintage later in my collecting journey, though. I could see myself doing vintage Omega, Rolex, and Accutron at some point. Accutron because of the historical uniqueness. Omega and Rolex for general build quality and serviceability/parts availability even though they are old.

·

Back when I was a collector and into vintage, I had no interest in reissues.  Now I'm just a casual enthusiast, and I don't want the hassle of a vintage piece.  If I like a vintage style and can get a modern verrsion of it, I'll take it.

·
jason_recliner

Back when I was a collector and into vintage, I had no interest in reissues.  Now I'm just a casual enthusiast, and I don't want the hassle of a vintage piece.  If I like a vintage style and can get a modern verrsion of it, I'll take it.

I genuinely understand this, and again it makes perfect sense to me. I would like to say I’m not anti-reissue or anti-retro, but I’m a bit too invested and set in my ways to change now.

·

Honestly at the end of the day its mostly down to availability. Vintage watches might not be as available as the reissue.

HOWEVER. As I have seen with the Seiko Alpinist SARB017 and its reissue Alpinist under the Prospex line, I can understand why some people didn't like the reissue. It was too different from the original. The green dial that made SARB017 popular is now a much darker green that even I find not as pleasing as the old one.

I wish we live in a world where all reissues can stay faithful to the original.

·

There’s a saying that goes “vintage gear has vintage problems.” I’ve never wanted to deal with that in regards to a watch. I would love to own a vintage WWI trench watch, but that one would be for showin’ and not for wearin’. 

·

Vintage if affordable, otherwise reissue if affordable.  I guess I'm "affordable" all the way... 😉

·
Henrik

Funnily enough i have both the reissue watches in your pictures.

so i guess im in camp reissue!

I do really want the vintage version to.

Image
Image

I've owned the reissued one and liked it alot, and I enjoyed the fact it was new, had no issues and was totally replaceable. I might buy it again if it came out in the original size 🤔 I always opt for the smaller size.