Vintage Sleepers

Outside of Rolex, what do you think is the most slept on vintage watch? It could be a brand, specific reference or style. 

Let's here it folks!

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most 70’s chronographs! Bulova devil diver 666, Tissot Seaster Navigator, Seiko speedtimers (Kakume)! Great watches and not bad prices if you can handle the hunt! Cheers 🍻

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#omega Constellation pie pans and the #accutron Astronaut (great history and funky design)

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I would add Zodiac and Rado into the fold of makers of great vintage pieces. And for distinct dress watches, Piaget.

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Since Buren invented the first Micro rotor movement and applied for their patent in 1954 nearly a year before Universal Genève, I call anything Buren-Hamilton Intramatic.

True true sleeper on the wrist, nobody will ever know what a 'chunk of history' you're wearing 🙌💥💯🔥⌚.

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I think the brands that constitute the middle tier of the modern Swatch are underrated. Everyone sees the value in vintage Omega.  Many overlook vintage Eterna, Mido, and Certina.  There is more to Eterna than the Kontiki.  I don't think that Tissot is overlooked, however.

Also, for a brand like Benrus, there is more than just the Sea Lord and whatever Steve McQueen wore in Bullitt. 

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SimplyVintageWatches

Since Buren invented the first Micro rotor movement and applied for their patent in 1954 nearly a year before Universal Genève, I call anything Buren-Hamilton Intramatic.

True true sleeper on the wrist, nobody will ever know what a 'chunk of history' you're wearing 🙌💥💯🔥⌚.

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Ugh. Now I want to add an Intramatic to my collection. I've let some slip away at auction. Perhaps it can go into next quarter's budget. 

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Aurelian

I think the brands that constitute the middle tier of the modern Swatch are underrated. Everyone sees the value in vintage Omega.  Many overlook vintage Eterna, Mido, and Certina.  There is more to Eterna than the Kontiki.  I don't think that Tissot is overlooked, however.

Also, for a brand like Benrus, there is more than just the Sea Lord and whatever Steve McQueen wore in Bullitt. 

Perhaps I'll break out my Benrus for tomorrow. And it's not a Sea Lord. :)

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Aurelian

I think the brands that constitute the middle tier of the modern Swatch are underrated. Everyone sees the value in vintage Omega.  Many overlook vintage Eterna, Mido, and Certina.  There is more to Eterna than the Kontiki.  I don't think that Tissot is overlooked, however.

Also, for a brand like Benrus, there is more than just the Sea Lord and whatever Steve McQueen wore in Bullitt. 

Agree, definitely some sleepers in that list.

But the Sea Lord and the Bullitt Benrus though… god.

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Buren and Gruen - some excellent American history there.

vintage Timex can surprise you as well. It’s really hard getting a good Grand Prix / Rally one now. £150>

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After falling in love with my modern Grand Seiko, I dug deep into researching the lineage of the design aesthetic and just how pure those specifications still ring true today based on the earlier models from Seiko's Grand Seiko and King Seiko lines, not to mention the Suwa vs Daini dynamic that existed within one company. It led me to search for an unpolished model to add to my collection. For a 53 year old example that's been beat up a bit, it still keeps amazing time. I highly recommend others look into these vintage GS/KS watches. [Pictured: a Seiko 'King Seiko Hi-Beat' 5626-7000T from November 1968]

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Porthole

Agree, definitely some sleepers in that list.

But the Sea Lord and the Bullitt Benrus though… god.

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Agree.  It's just that they are not underrated.  They are properly considered as valuable vintage pieces.

(And you are just flexing now....and properly so.)

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Another vote for the Omega dress watches, like the Constellation and the Seamaster. Even though they are small by today's standards, they are really detailed and beautifully made.

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Here are some vintage watches that I currently lust after:

Universal Geneve Polerouter, Omega Constellation, the "dirty dozen" military watches, and the Cartier Tank

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Pre-war Hamilton - incredible quality and made in the USA.

60s King Seiko - amazingly undervalued, even in today's bauble-bubble market.

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Richierich

Here are some vintage watches that I currently lust after:

Universal Geneve Polerouter, Omega Constellation, the "dirty dozen" military watches, and the Cartier Tank

What about the Dirty Dozen does it for people? Genuine question. They're not any of the things that the watch collecting community normally goes for (tech, finishing, value, etc)

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Winston

most 70’s chronographs! Bulova devil diver 666, Tissot Seaster Navigator, Seiko speedtimers (Kakume)! Great watches and not bad prices if you can handle the hunt! Cheers 🍻

That speedtimer is wicked cool! Also love the Sea Navigator!

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santiago

I would add Zodiac and Rado into the fold of makers of great vintage pieces. And for distinct dress watches, Piaget.

Both brands have such rich history and love some of the remakes Zodiac has done. 

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SimplyVintageWatches

Since Buren invented the first Micro rotor movement and applied for their patent in 1954 nearly a year before Universal Genève, I call anything Buren-Hamilton Intramatic.

True true sleeper on the wrist, nobody will ever know what a 'chunk of history' you're wearing 🙌💥💯🔥⌚.

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Such a cool piece! Great find!

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Aurelian

I think the brands that constitute the middle tier of the modern Swatch are underrated. Everyone sees the value in vintage Omega.  Many overlook vintage Eterna, Mido, and Certina.  There is more to Eterna than the Kontiki.  I don't think that Tissot is overlooked, however.

Also, for a brand like Benrus, there is more than just the Sea Lord and whatever Steve McQueen wore in Bullitt. 

Eterna and Certina have such good value in them! What are some of your other favorite Eterna's? 

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Porthole

Agree, definitely some sleepers in that list.

But the Sea Lord and the Bullitt Benrus though… god.

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Nice Pick ups!

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Porthole

Buren and Gruen - some excellent American history there.

vintage Timex can surprise you as well. It’s really hard getting a good Grand Prix / Rally one now. £150>

Gruen is one of my favorite watches and it is the first watch I ever bought. 

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smallwristed
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After falling in love with my modern Grand Seiko, I dug deep into researching the lineage of the design aesthetic and just how pure those specifications still ring true today based on the earlier models from Seiko's Grand Seiko and King Seiko lines, not to mention the Suwa vs Daini dynamic that existed within one company. It led me to search for an unpolished model to add to my collection. For a 53 year old example that's been beat up a bit, it still keeps amazing time. I highly recommend others look into these vintage GS/KS watches. [Pictured: a Seiko 'King Seiko Hi-Beat' 5626-7000T from November 1968]

I just picked up a Seiko Skyliner and love learning about the Suwa and Daini dynamic. 

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Bmaj1856

Eterna and Certina have such good value in them! What are some of your other favorite Eterna's? 

I am on the hunt for an Eterna-matic in my price range, something with ball bearings.  I doubt that I could find a Centenaire, but I can always hope.

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KyleC93

What about the Dirty Dozen does it for people? Genuine question. They're not any of the things that the watch collecting community normally goes for (tech, finishing, value, etc)

It is about history.  They are the genesis of the modern field watch.  They are also the first widespread attempt to use functional lume.  The vintage collector is a slightly different variation of the more typical watch collector.  Sometimes the actual physical watch is of secondary interest. A Polerouter is a beautiful watch, that's not the primary reason that it is collectable.  

A 31mm manual watch from the 1940's that has been beaten nearly to death is not the way to look at Dirty Dozen watches.  They are more like your great grandfather's service medals. People don't restore Willy's because they are stylish or comfortable.  They are the watch industry's adaptation to the most momentous era of the last century.  These watches were among the reasons for Swiss dominance for nearly the next three decades.

If a watch, or type of watch, doesn't move you or do it for you there are plenty more styles and lines to follow.  I have never owned, nor do I intend to own, a Casio for example.  They simply don't float my boat.  (If any part of this post is incorrect @SimplyVintageWatches will clean it up for me.)

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Aurelian

It is about history.  They are the genesis of the modern field watch.  They are also the first widespread attempt to use functional lume.  The vintage collector is a slightly different variation of the more typical watch collector.  Sometimes the actual physical watch is of secondary interest. A Polerouter is a beautiful watch, that's not the primary reason that it is collectable.  

A 31mm manual watch from the 1940's that has been beaten nearly to death is not the way to look at Dirty Dozen watches.  They are more like your great grandfather's service medals. People don't restore Willy's because they are stylish or comfortable.  They are the watch industry's adaptation to the most momentous era of the last century.  These watches were among the reasons for Swiss dominance for nearly the next three decades.

If a watch, or type of watch, doesn't move you or do it for you there are plenty more styles and lines to follow.  I have never owned, nor do I intend to own, a Casio for example.  They simply don't float my boat.  (If any part of this post is incorrect @SimplyVintageWatches will clean it up for me.)

@KyleC93 Your genuine question is a very good one👍. It really demonstrates your interest in getting to know the whole "other animal"👹😄 that are Vintage Watches in contrast to it's modern counterparts, modern watches.

Speeking of the Dirty Dozen:

@Aurelian "They are the genesis of the modern field watch." So true, without a doubt 💪❕

"A 31mm manual watch from the 1940's that has been beaten nearly to death is not the way to look at Dirty Dozen watches.  They are more like your great grandfather's service medals."

Aurelian's comparison is spot on in order to at least understand the feeling behind the conviction some of us (dying breed 😂) have when collecting certain Vintage Watches.

The Dirty Dozen watches are a unique tool watch that shared it's DNA across various brands and was put together for a purpose but unintentionally for the modern collector. Alan Brooke was a military advisor to Prime Minister Winston Churchill during the Second World War and it was he who commissioned the "creation", threw the British Ministry of Supply, of the field watch that later became known as the Dirty Dozen. Twelve manufactures were chosen in order to speed up production as part of the ongoing war effort. They were the first wrist watches ever to be marked on the dial by the Broad Arrow signifying them to be British Government issued property. 

Those two historical points are huge factors to be taken into account when it comes to their collectability 👌. 

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TIMEX… underrated overall… 

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Agree with Timex vintage line up being underrated.

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I would also add that non-english speaking vintage catalogs are grossly over looked. Ie Chinese or Russian (tho they seem to get more representation)

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DraconianCollector

Agree with Timex vintage line up being underrated.

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Wow!!! …

Yes, there is a lot to have from vintage timex, a lot of models at a incredible reasonable price. I’ll for sure continue to look for more pieces from them.

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I think vintage Omegas are still undervalued for the quality and experience of wearing 60+ year-old watches.

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