Forgot the Tissot CSOC looks great in person and it is reasonably priced. IMHO there is real value in that watch.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/116017526216?itmmeta=01HQEZE3W5XCX5R9ZCRYARSN5M&hash=item1b032ef5c8:g:8FQAAOSwHIllhXNo

Suggest you consider a Tissot Quartz as your dollar will go a lot further.

FYI; I have a Tissot quartz Visiodate and it is a terrific watch (absolutely beautiful).

While, a more expensive Tissot Powermatic 80 required warranty service.

With quartz you are saving money, by not paying for the movement, while getting the watch case and design you want. On higher end watches the movement is part of a whole package.

Same thing with PRX - consider quartz.

nice colorway

I've yet to find a watch which is a hundred percent.

Getting a watch that's ninety percent (of perfect) is relatively easy.

Each percentage Closer to perfection costs a geometrically larger amount of money.

A Forty dollar duro or a forty thousand Patek are both quality watches. What you want and see in a watch is very personal.

The calatrava is the bomb.

I hear and respect your perspective;

-I have to think most of the marketing is in the B range; and that is where there are a large number of customers and a large number of watches. Almost an infinite number of watches. Some recent watches I saw in person included a Zodiac Ceramic ($1700MSRP that can be had for $1,000 new) and a Tissot CSOC (which I think is a bargain at $725).

-There are less watches in C range - watches I own in that range include an Omega or two and a Hermes H08 an Oris 400 a Glashutte Original, a Prospex spring drive, an uncomplicated Paneri, and a Stowa chronometer; an add might be a GS quartz or a Cartier. There is a level of detail and refinement in the case and movements that are just not found below $1,500. Buying used also comes into play where you can derive quite a bit of value

-In the rare-a-fied bracket - my experience is to add in watches that retain or gain in value. There is a marginal difference between C and D in terms of the watch you are getting - that extra few percentage points of "utils - utility" cost quite a bit. Some of the watches are very special. If you buy a datejust at MSRP you can start to see the difference and then I have a few watches "in my opinion over rolex" specifically an H Moser, a complicated Paneri, a Grand Seiko, and a Vacheron.

The majority of people don't know what the watch you are wearing and unless its a rolex they don't care.

---The high horology we are talking artwork. Those watches are the sum or 1/2 the value, the value, or even more than my whole collection.

My suggestion (and to learn I did not follow this advice) is buy a single A range watch, buy a single B range watch; and then start the journey (even its a very slow journey) in the C range. Or buy whatever you like that gets wrist time.

IMHO an Omega Seamaster is a core watch - it has an amazing amount of "elements" of a grail, enthusiast, or highly desirable watch.

Elements might be - Dial, Movement, Brand, history, Hands, Bezel, Quirk of the Helium Relief Valve

Finding out what you like and appreciate is a subjective and highly personal journey.

The sad part is we only have two wrists and one less dominant arm (the watch arm - which keeps watches out of harms way). Octopus would have less of a wrist time challenge.