Movement accuracy

So my latest acquisition has finally arrived after serious delays and I'm somewhat annoyed. It cost around $1800 but is less accurate than even $400 pieces I have. It's running at approx +22 sec per day, which seems to be within spec limits for the Sellita SW510, but I was really hoping that a watch of this value would be more accurate. 

Am I being too fussy, should I just live with it, or should I return the watch? 

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If you are already annoyed and it, return it. The better watch companies, especially some of the micro brands, will regulate it before the ship. Others may simply get the product, throw their rotor on it (if that) and ship it out with no regulation. 

The other question is, how are you measuring it? Is it a matter of simply wearing it and it is losing time of the course of a few days or are you using a timegrapher and are you using the right position for measuring?

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As a fussy accuracy fanatic, no, you're not - I'm the same way.  Although I've yet to return a watch for that reason.  The first thing I always do with a new watch is start tracking its daily rate (I use the Watch Tracker app on my iPad) and experimenting with what position to let it rest in overnight/off wrist to determine whether it gains or loses time.  If you've not done so I'd recommend trying to determine what, if any rest position the watch will lose some time in overnight/off wrist in order to bring down the daily rate to a more acceptable level.  Good luck!

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I have found that sort of early annoyance with a watch never goes away.  Send it back and restart the hunt.

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AllTheWatches

If you are already annoyed and it, return it. The better watch companies, especially some of the micro brands, will regulate it before the ship. Others may simply get the product, throw their rotor on it (if that) and ship it out with no regulation. 

The other question is, how are you measuring it? Is it a matter of simply wearing it and it is losing time of the course of a few days or are you using a timegrapher and are you using the right position for measuring?

Isn't there a "breaking in" period for new movements? (Not that I would know anything about new movements.)

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Aurelian

Isn't there a "breaking in" period for new movements? (Not that I would know anything about new movements.)

That’s a good point depends on the brand, but to your point if this is a big name brand that just pumps out models and doesn’t regulate them and run them, absolutely could be a cause.

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Ooh tell us what it is?

The only time I had a similar situation it was a vintage piece and the seller kindly regulated it for me.

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I was really hoping that a watch of this value would be more accurate. 

You've learned a valuable lesson!

If within specification, you are free to return it and they are free to find your complaint meritless.

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Might be hard to return it because it is within specs so nothing is wrong with the watch. If you can return it though then you can go that route. 

As someone mentioned above you may need to just give it some time. Mechanical movements aren’t computerized devices so it may settle over time, change based on temperature, how you are storing it etc. 

I think that is why others have asked you how you are coming up with the +22. One thing you can do is take it to a watchmaker to put it on a timegrapher for you, this should be free of charge. Having a watchmaker regulate it for you can also do wonders. 
 

I had a Seiko 4r35 movement that was initially all over the place but it settled in over time. Another Seiko 6r35that I tried regulating myself and screwing up, then having a watchmaker doing it for me, now it is accurate enough for my standards. 
 

If accuracy is of utmost importance than maybe quartz is the way to go, but if you also want to enjoy the beauty of a mechanical movement then sometimes it takes some time and effort to get it ticking within an acceptable level of accuracy.

Good luck! 

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Might want to consider quartz. 

Or quartz with radio tower sync

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or Bluetooth sync.

Or the most fancy - GPS sync which also knows your exact location so it sets both the time and location for you. 

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Is it magnetized? You would be surprised. I have had the lug pins magnetized.  I would check this out first before doing anything else.

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Good question.  I've bought some watches and been too busy to monitor their accuracy.  I've been thinking of getting a timegrapher for this purpose.  But I've also read that it might kill your joy in watches. So I've held off for now.  But one day, I'll get it.  If nothing else, it's greatly helpful in regulating the watches yourself.  

Good luck!

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I’m not that particular about my watches. In theory, I want them as accurate as possible, but I change watches so much that I rarely notice if they’re getting off over time. 
 

That said, I think it’s more than fair to expect better than 22 sec/day for $1800. So even if that’s within spec, I think you should feel free to return it for something else. I personally don’t think a new watch should require me holding it in special positions and praying to the time gods for it to do it’s job. Vintage fine, but new out of the box watches need to just do their jobs or I need my money back. 

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I’m into accuracy. I have a timegrapher and regulate watches that need it. But it’s true that a new watch can settle in with some use. My Seiko baby Snowflake came out of the box running about +25 spd. But after a week or so it settled into running reliably around +4 spd. Regulating watches myself and bringing them into COSC accuracy range is very satisfying to me and definitely increases my enjoyment of them. I would give it a few weeks and learn how consistent the movement is, and see if it settles down. A reliable watch repair person could probably solve your issues. 

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Had this issue with my Squale when I first got it. It has an SW-200 Elabore. Seems most Sellita run fast from the factory after doing some research. It may break in but not enough to slow it down from +22. Sellita does regulate at their factory but those little movements go through a lot before they reach their final destination. Mine was running at about +20. I opened the back and turned the micro adjuster down one tick and it did the trick. You will need some tools and just a little bit of know how. Now it’s about +5. If I had it regulated professionally it would probably be better. If you’re unsure, bring it to a watchmaker and they will do it right. I promise it isn’t broken, just needs an adjustment. It is a machine after all and it needs calibration.

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Unfortunately it's pot luck, unless you go for a certified movement or a higher grade sellita or ETA. I wouldnt be happy with it either but would give it time to settle. However, id be surprised if that resulted in a vast change to accuracy. 

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solution 1 - accept your fate $40 casio quartz will out perform $400 seiko automatic will out perform $4000 rolex  will out perform $400 000 RM.  

solution 2 - being 22 seconds late is still better than me.

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Doesn't seem like love. I'd return the watch if possible 

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Just talk to the AD or brand. I think for the 530 it’s +/-20 secs/day. You probably have recourse for them to adjust it within warranty. But, yes, price doesn’t guarantee accuracy. If you are particularly bothered about accuracy, just remember the following hierarchy: radio-controlled > quartz > COSC certified Chronometer (mechanical)  > mechanical. Price doesn’t come into it.

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Do the brand says they regulate the movement ? If yes, I think you could have a call/visit/mail to explain your concern and disappointment.

If not, go on your local watchmaker so he regulates it.

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AllTheWatches

That’s a good point depends on the brand, but to your point if this is a big name brand that just pumps out models and doesn’t regulate them and run them, absolutely could be a cause.

Sinn has a Selita movement in my 104 and it’s my most accurate mechanical watch ! Not sure what movement or brand you purchased, my 6r35 Seiko is close to the Sinn but my Sinn is better ! 

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Question: are specs intended to apply just to on-wrist wear, or should they apply to performance off wrist? My Baby Alpinist performs at +2-3 spd when I’m wearing it, but leaps up to +20-25 spd when I take it off at night.

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If you bought it from an AD and it's still under warranty maybe just bring it back and say it's running very fast, the chances are the person you're talking too won't know too much about accuracy and they'll just send it back to the manufacturer.  If you get a watchmaker to open it it might invalidate the warranty.  I'd be annoyed if I spent that much and it was running that fast.  

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Tinfoiled14

Sinn has a Selita movement in my 104 and it’s my most accurate mechanical watch ! Not sure what movement or brand you purchased, my 6r35 Seiko is close to the Sinn but my Sinn is better ! 

Excellent point, there is no way Sinn let's their watches out without regulation.  I need to wear my 104 more. 

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is it an Oris ? 

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Thanks for the input everyone. 

Almost all my timepieces are imported and I've never had an issue until now, hence me disqualifying some of the 'usual' possible causes and thinking that I just got an in-spec but unimpressive movement in my watch. 

I can't 100% conclude whether the movement has settled in or it was magnetised, but I can report that I am very satisfied with the performance now. I followed the Hodinkee demag method, and assessed the performance every (+/-) 12 hours for several days now and the watch seems to be staying within 3 seconds. 

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weodude

is it an Oris ? 

It's a Nivada Grenchen. They say they regulate the movement, but because of the big delay in shipping and them struggling to 'catch up' on orders I was initially concerned that they might be rushing pieces out. Luckily everything seems to be working fine