Modern Vintage Divers...are we about to peak?!
It's been a good year for vintage-inspired divers. We've had a few releases that make it hard to argue there are any real lack of choices. With the recent release of the Longines Legend Diver in 39mm, I think we're close to peak performance here folks.
I've been looking at the Legend Diver for a while. I even considered the bronze with a green fume dial. It looks phenomenal. But the rumours of the 39mm kept me at bay. And at long last here it is, and it looks amazing:
39mm, no date, beads of rice, COSC, minimal text dial, what else could you want?! It hits all the marks for me at least. Even the lume is improved in terms of aesthetic and modern feel:
Not much more I can say about the new Legend Diver, it really is the best vintage style compressor watch out there IMO.
Now that said, there is still the vintage dive watch titan here, which I think is ultimately who Swatch Group is going after...the Black Bay. Everyone knows it, and you cannot deny, it is the quintessential dive watch. It carries the DNA of one of the OGs, and just in case you forgot what that means here's a reminder:
It's all there but with modern specs. It's a great distraction for me in fact because I still truly aspire to buy a 14060 Rolex Sub, but every time the BB54 is in the corner of my eye. The only thing stopping me is the fact the Tudor hand set still makes me feel like this:
And these are only two distractions on my way to an actual vintage Sub. There is still this maybe forgotten, but nonetheless beautiful rendition from Omega:
This Seamster 300 heritage was a 2017 release from Omega, one of their few 39mm, no date- models at that! But for whatever reason, they decided to make it a special release and not run with it in full-steam production. They could've done more IMHO.
And lest we forget the Blancpain release (no, not the Swatch version!) which finally saw the Fifty Fathoms come back to a reasonable size at 41mm. But being Blancpain, of course it is in a semi-precious material and $35k...ughhh...
All of these watches are honestly causing a bit of an overload for a vintage dive watch nerd like me. And yes, these are all mainstream I know, but what can I say, I'm boring 😎
Of course there's lots of other heavy weights out there like Doxa, Seiko, Zodiac, to name a few. I would also love to get my hands on some of those pricey vintage reissues. But there is only so much room and money in the bag. Over time I hope all these pieces will make their way into my watch box.
For now, I'm going to keep my eye on that used Rolex market. Next year might be the right time to strike.
Keep it real WC!
Well rounded nerd, into music, guitar pedals, all things DIY, and watches!
The legend diver’s bezel locking system is weird…or it was on the 42. Just sayin’…😬
The 1957 Trilogy Seamaster 300 is the first luxury watch I bought. It’s a beauty and a watch I don’t ever see myself parting with. I added the BB54 this summer and I‘m thinking of replacing my SPB143 with the legend diver 39. After that I think I‘m set for divers. I might add something like a Citizen Promaster 37 for fun. So yeah it‘s been a great year for vintage inspired divers.
I also think the current Seamster 300 should be brought down in size to 39mm, but I‘d keep the design as is, as I find the modern faceted hands and the sandwich dial beautiful. Lastly, about the BB54. I‘ve never bin a big fan of Tudor before the BB54 was released. And while I‘m still not a huge fan of the snowflake hand I can’t deny it lends the watch character and a unique feel. On the BB54 the hour hand is slimmed down, hence looking somewhat more refined than on other models. Great post 🙌
I'm not sure we are anywhere near peak vintage inspired yet.
Watches(particularly mechanical) are moving more and more into the realm of jewellery, so it makes sense for them to revert to the "golden age" styles of the 50s-70s.
It's easy to forget that up until ~10-15 years ago watches were basically an essential for most people. Until we all started carrying pocket computers, most professionals needed a watch, so they tried to remain current and "modern". Now that "modern" people are wearing smart watches, it makes little sense to try to compete in that style with a standard quartz/mechanical watch.
The legend diver’s bezel locking system is weird…or it was on the 42. Just sayin’…😬
Hmm, its locking bezel weird in what sense?
The 1957 Trilogy Seamaster 300 is the first luxury watch I bought. It’s a beauty and a watch I don’t ever see myself parting with. I added the BB54 this summer and I‘m thinking of replacing my SPB143 with the legend diver 39. After that I think I‘m set for divers. I might add something like a Citizen Promaster 37 for fun. So yeah it‘s been a great year for vintage inspired divers.
I also think the current Seamster 300 should be brought down in size to 39mm, but I‘d keep the design as is, as I find the modern faceted hands and the sandwich dial beautiful. Lastly, about the BB54. I‘ve never bin a big fan of Tudor before the BB54 was released. And while I‘m still not a huge fan of the snowflake hand I can’t deny it lends the watch character and a unique feel. On the BB54 the hour hand is slimmed down, hence looking somewhat more refined than on other models. Great post 🙌
I see you're a fan of the Serica 4512 too. I love mine.
Care to post a pic of your Omega Trilogy Seamaster? 😉
I see you're a fan of the Serica 4512 too. I love mine.
Care to post a pic of your Omega Trilogy Seamaster? 😉
I will as soon as I get it back. It’s currently being serviced 😅
Here are a few older pics:
Great question: Yes I think so. We are in a Golden Erra of many watch styles. We get new tech, new designs & new tech in retro designs. Longines and Tudor are my two favorite at the moment. I just purchased a Longines Spirit Titaniumn 40mm used.
Hmm, its locking bezel weird in what sense?
So….It’s done by unlocking the top crown…turning….and then re-locking (as you would a regular crown)
What I found weird/annoying was as you pushed the crown to re lock it.. it would sometimes move the bezel, meaning you’d have to reposition and start again.
I have a vintage compressor from the 60’s… it’s internal bezel is ratcheted.
About to? I'm so over diver watches.
I'm not sure we are anywhere near peak vintage inspired yet.
Watches(particularly mechanical) are moving more and more into the realm of jewellery, so it makes sense for them to revert to the "golden age" styles of the 50s-70s.
It's easy to forget that up until ~10-15 years ago watches were basically an essential for most people. Until we all started carrying pocket computers, most professionals needed a watch, so they tried to remain current and "modern". Now that "modern" people are wearing smart watches, it makes little sense to try to compete in that style with a standard quartz/mechanical watch.
Agreed, most these watches are for fun or for show, not for practical. But I think "modern" people are starting to look backwards a bit more as you said. Mechanical watches are definitely less tools and more accessories these days.
I will as soon as I get it back. It’s currently being serviced 😅
Here are a few older pics:
Very nice! The bracelet takes the cake for me every time.
About to? I'm so over diver watches.
Great question: Yes I think so. We are in a Golden Erra of many watch styles. We get new tech, new designs & new tech in retro designs. Longines and Tudor are my two favorite at the moment. I just purchased a Longines Spirit Titaniumn 40mm used.
Didn't even know they made the Spirit in titanium! That's awesome.
So….It’s done by unlocking the top crown…turning….and then re-locking (as you would a regular crown)
What I found weird/annoying was as you pushed the crown to re lock it.. it would sometimes move the bezel, meaning you’d have to reposition and start again.
I have a vintage compressor from the 60’s… it’s internal bezel is ratcheted.
I see. That's not that surprising. This isn't even technically a "real" compressor for that matter, it just has the look.
In general I think I would prefer the external clicky bezel for everyday timing purposes. If I was an actual diver maybe the internal bezel would give me more security, but I'm a professional desk diver here!
Didn't even know they made the Spirit in titanium! That's awesome.
Yes it's a cool little watch. Inpick it up today. The watch is used - purchased last year at this time. I know you were focused on dive watches . I think pilot and racing chrono pieces are experiencing the same thing.
Yurk is just about right. But I like the cathedral hands on the Oris big crown pointer date and on the Murph. They look great on those watches, to my eye. I know, not Mercedes hands…but in the same wheelhouse?
Mercedes and cathedral hands are very similar - I can't abide either! I do like the Oris big crown pointer though, apart from the hands... 🤣
Mercedes and cathedral hands are very similar - I can't abide either! I do like the Oris big crown pointer though, apart from the hands... 🤣
https://www.oris.ch/en-DE/watch/big-crown-pointer-date-calibre-403/01-403-7776-4065-07-5-19-11 😎
Mercedes and cathedral hands are very similar - I can't abide either! I do like the Oris big crown pointer though, apart from the hands... 🤣
Can’t win ‘em all! 😂😂
The best part about the modern vintage diver phase is the sizing to me. Sub 48mm lug to lug watches are great on wrist and the lighter weights from that and titanium makes them great as a daily driver.
I’m done with gilt accents though.
We don't hit peak until Rolex decides to reissue a real vintage-inspired Submariner, not under Tudor branding. 🤣
Hate on the snowflake all you want. It’s cool that’s not your preference. But the 54 is the best new vintage executed watch on the market. Nothing comes close.
All the baby boomers I know prefer the latest tech. They let go of mechanical watches in the 70's, including my father.
Mechanical movements: the vinyl records of the watch world
Hate on the snowflake all you want. It’s cool that’s not your preference. But the 54 is the best new vintage executed watch on the market. Nothing comes close.
As good as it is, the BB is the most popular, likely, but not the "best" executed IMO. At the end of the day, it's still 99% based on a Rolex. I would be inclined to nominate Tudor for best execution if they brought back the piece that gave birth to the snowflake hand:
The square markers fit in perfectly in this case with the hand set, similar to the Pelagos. The military Tudor sub is the watch I think vintage nerds really want.
As good as it is, the BB is the most popular, likely, but not the "best" executed IMO. At the end of the day, it's still 99% based on a Rolex. I would be inclined to nominate Tudor for best execution if they brought back the piece that gave birth to the snowflake hand:
The square markers fit in perfectly in this case with the hand set, similar to the Pelagos. The military Tudor sub is the watch I think vintage nerds really want.
I don’t see it that way. The 54 is an unofficial reissue of Tudor’s first Submariner, the 7922. The 7922 Submariner was developed a year after the 6204, the 1953 Rolex Submariner. Tudor submariner’s have their own charm that set them apart from Rolex, and they are specifically sought after over Rolex by collectors.
My issue with the Omega is that while their vintage inspired watches look the part — somewhat anyway — they lack the vintage dimensions. Other brands have the same issue.
Concerning the snowflake Submariner, yes, I, like many Tudor fanboys and fan girls, have requested that to make a return. The blue snowflake submariner is one of my favorite divers of all time. I have the Pelagos 39, too, and it somewhat scratches the itch. But I want the snowflake in blue in steel with submariner on the dial.
I made a video concerning these topics on my channel, and I mentioned we will probably never witness that happen. Tudor has clearly made us aware that the submariner model name is now exclusive to Rolex.
I don’t see it that way. The 54 is an unofficial reissue of Tudor’s first Submariner, the 7922. The 7922 Submariner was developed a year after the 6204, the 1953 Rolex Submariner. Tudor submariner’s have their own charm that set them apart from Rolex, and they are specifically sought after over Rolex by collectors.
My issue with the Omega is that while their vintage inspired watches look the part — somewhat anyway — they lack the vintage dimensions. Other brands have the same issue.
Concerning the snowflake Submariner, yes, I, like many Tudor fanboys and fan girls, have requested that to make a return. The blue snowflake submariner is one of my favorite divers of all time. I have the Pelagos 39, too, and it somewhat scratches the itch. But I want the snowflake in blue in steel with submariner on the dial.
I made a video concerning these topics on my channel, and I mentioned we will probably never witness that happen. Tudor has clearly made us aware that the submariner model name is now exclusive to Rolex.
This is my point as well. As far as vintage re-issue goes, the BB54 is a "new" 7922 which itself was a rebranded 6204.
That's not to discredit Tudor as a brand, I agree they have their own place. I like the BB54. All I'm saying is that the military Tudor sub was created by Tudor for Tudor. It's closer to being a true brand original, not a Rolex variant. I also happen to like the aesthetics more. Hence that would be the "best" reissue for them IMO.
As you correctly point out, this is my opinion and preference, not an absolute fact. I do hope for everyone's benefit they at least make a blue Pelagos 39. That would be better than nothing.
https://www.oris.ch/en-DE/watch/big-crown-pointer-date-calibre-403/01-403-7776-4065-07-5-19-11 😎
That's a beauty! Love the small seconds.
As good as it is, the BB is the most popular, likely, but not the "best" executed IMO. At the end of the day, it's still 99% based on a Rolex. I would be inclined to nominate Tudor for best execution if they brought back the piece that gave birth to the snowflake hand:
The square markers fit in perfectly in this case with the hand set, similar to the Pelagos. The military Tudor sub is the watch I think vintage nerds really want.
Many people seem to think the FXD is the modern incarnation of the snowflake sub. It appears thus unlikely Tudor will ever release a watch that resembles this icon even more closely. But here’s to hoping 🤞.
I recently tried on the FXD and although I gravitate towards mid to small sized watches I was surprised how well it wore.
I don't think we're at the peak yet, I think there's a lot more to come. Even more heritage inspired designs from Longines, Tudor and Omega. Then the affordable brands jumping all over it like a rash which will be the peak.
I like the Omega, Tudor ( have no Problem with the Hand Set 😉) and the Blancpain… Need to clear that with my wife 🙈🤣
Love a retro diver 😘