IMHO an Omega Seamaster is a core watch - it has an amazing amount of "elements" of a grail, enthusiast, or highly desirable watch.

Elements might be - Dial, Movement, Brand, history, Hands, Bezel, Quirk of the Helium Relief Valve

Finding out what you like and appreciate is a subjective and highly personal journey.

The sad part is we only have two wrists and one less dominant arm (the watch arm - which keeps watches out of harms way). Octopus would have less of a wrist time challenge.

I think what a "grail" does is it sets a benchmark for reaching the ideal watch in your collection. The idea (ideal) of finding that 100% watch can never really be found. There is no perfect watch.

I want to add a purple watch.

Catching my eye; The Phoibos is a fine watch; it is nicely designed, it has a great dial; a Seiko movement, and Islander has a great reputation. It could easily be someones grail or a prized possession.

$360 why not just buy it?

For me, It would not compare to the 95%+ high-mark that the grail has set; or the 98% my grail++ has set.

The $360 spent might prevent me from buying the Laine that might set the benchmark.

Strategically - small purchases prevent finding that grail.

Agree the GS is high finishing, great movement, great dial, but tends to have low value retention. Buying after-market is the way to go in many cases.

Laine (which is not a mainstream brand) has been on my radar as well as the Ming.

https://www.lainewatches.com/

Laine Its not the same price-point but it uses Vaucher.

https://timeandtidewatches.com/six-of-the-best-brands-watches-with-vaucher-based-calibres/

I have revisited "old friends" from time to time - its like getting a new watch; and sometimes a watch you don't like turns out to be a great watch.

Yes; my collection has evolved from;

Evolution 1) Soviet Watches (not worn); modern Luch One Hand and Slava Tank worn presently.

Evolution 2) Entry Level Watches (worn as beaters presently - Dive watches and citizen especially so - they really cannot go out of a collection)

Evolution 3) Luxury Watches (worn as daily wearing watches all the time)

Evolution 4) Now that I know what I like; and I know what I am looking for; I am very particular. I won't go back to 1 or 2; and then I will be selective about 3. I can wear all those entry level watches I purchased with impunity and enjoy the daylights out of them.

Potential additions via evolution 4 include GS tough quartz; Cartier Caliber Du Cartier; Piaget. It's really a thinking game at this point.

Evolution 5 - Really thinking about purchases in terms of strategy; details; and value. I want to buy a watch where 70%-125%+ can be recouped and to do that you are in a very few brands and a few models within the brand.

Fuzzy Wrist Shot (Its hard to take the next step after a "grail" which was purchased super-super efficiently).

I think the VC is beyond most of the watches in my collection a GO is close, Rolex is identifiable by others but lesser. There are other real values in my collection like Hermes H08, most/all Omega, and Oris.

Based on my journey I say to others - just buy an Omega or an Oris as an entry into Luxury watches (and perhaps turn Teddy and the marketing Off).

Since the "grail" I have found a few good watches to add into the collection but I am looking for a "grail ++" and the air is rare-a-fied. My grail+ is a H Moser.

I said no to an AP Code 11.59, and on the waiting list for an Overseas, passed on a JLC Polaris. I am thinking Cartier Rose gold Caliber Du Cartier.

The watch below, my current grail, was purchased at 75% of the current trading price; with papers, box and time on the warranty., the grail+ (an H Moser) was purchased with the same economics in mind, with papers, box, full warranty.

A recent temptation was a Zodiac ceramic for $999 - but I know it is the type of watch that will go into the collection easily, get little or no wrist time, but never go out because to go out 1) I would take huge percentage haircut 50% 2) I have to dedicate time and effort to get the watch out of the collection.

I can take a high-end watch to a dealer and if it is bought efficiently and thoughtfully it can return 75% to 125% of the price paid. I am basically using my grail and grail+ watches for free.

My journey is one of learning; but now I have a method, rules, and philosophy. So what you are thinking about; well that is a very good thing in a hobby that is very addicting.

I just like

1) handling the watches;

2) the feel of them on my wrist

3) winding them,

4) looking at them,

5) noticing all the details.

6) The fact they are not really needed today; they are an anachronism.

Most of all;

I am the only person that really cares about the watch I am wearing. Sometimes a Rolex will be noticed as a Rolex - but many watches I wear never get any notice.

Case in point the following (my daily wearing) watch does not get any notice;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4GSwWNDTYN4

https://www.seikowatches.com/us-en/products/prospex/snr027j1

In terms of build quality; how does it compare to luxury watches from Richemont or Swatch? Where would it reside on either pyramid?

I am asking that question because I like the designs of the Ming.

I have a few watches with SW200 and SW300 movements; and ming (some Christopher Ward watches, and Sinn as well) seems priced beyond what a watch with that brand of movement should cost. The Ming's I am seeing are in the after market used and at IMHO they are highly priced to value around $3,500+.

Are you paying for the dial and/or case in place of the movement?

My thinking is; For the price of a Ming you can get a Grand Seiko Quartz with a great movement, great case design, ok bracelet design, and perhaps a very good dial. You might also be able to buy a Omega at a ming price point with a great movement and a great dial.

Well, you don't want a leather band..

Casio Duro

Citizen Pro-diver

Longines Hydro-conquest

Oris diver 65 <-real thin