Nomos, Christopher Ward, Oris: The Mid-Range Mastery Showdown - Where Do You Stand?

Hello Fellow Horophiles,

I trust you're all enjoying some quality time with your cherished tickers. Today, let's delve into a discussion that brings together three respected names in the mid-range watch market: Nomos, Christopher Ward, and Oris.

These three brands, each with its unique approach and philosophy, have continually offered timepieces that challenge the status quo, proving that quality, innovation, and value can coexist without commanding astronomical prices.

Nomos, hailing from Germany, has built its reputation on minimalist Bauhaus-inspired designs, in-house movements, and meticulous craftsmanship, exemplified by models like the Tangente and Orion.

UK's Christopher Ward has followed a different path, emphasizing affordable luxury with diverse offerings, from dress watches like the C1 Grand Malvern to dive watches like the C60 Trident.

Swiss brand Oris, meanwhile, boasts over a century of watchmaking history, known for its reliable, functional, and design-forward pieces like the Aquis Date and Big Crown Pointer Date.

This brings us to the hot seat question:

Between Nomos, Christopher Ward, and Oris, which brand resonates with you the most and why? Is your preference influenced by their design ethos, movement quality, brand history, or perhaps a specific model?

Let's hear your thoughts on this.

If possible, share a photo of your favorite watch from Nomos, Christopher Ward, or Oris. Let's put some faces to these brands!

As we navigate through this comparison, let's keep our discussion respectful, enlightening, and remember - there's no right or wrong in personal preference. I look forward to hearing your views!

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I prefer them in this order.

1) Oris

2) Nomos

3) CW

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Of the three CW is my top pick, followed by Oris and then Nomos.

CW's designs appeal to me far more than anything put out by the other two, with Nomos not really appealing to me at all. I find Oris charges a lot of money for watches that are nice, but not twice the price of a CW nice...

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Oris first for me, history, independence & design . Had one when I was much younger (handwound) & an Aquis

CW second, I'm a patriotic Brit & I've owned a couple

Nomos really dislike their designs

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Started to read but first sentence reminded me of the typical BS email from middle management so, TLDR.

I’d go following order.

Oris, (in house only)

Nomos

CW

Oris have more of a selection & better designs

Bono’s are clean & well made

CW logo is so bad it completely puts me off. Aside from that bell canto gymick, all their designs feel like Rolex copies etc

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Oris, then nomos, then CW.

I love the aquis, and may own one one day if they add a quick adjust clasp. I feel like the bracelet needs to be perfect for an integrated watch to work well.

I like nomos and their designs, but I just don’t think I see their designs fitting into my life/style. I like the ahoi neomatic though!

For some reason, CW just doesn’t get my blood pumping. Maybe it’s the brand name and or the newness of the brand, but it just doesn’t connect. Maybe it will in the future for me though

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CW is my favorite of the bunch for their ethics. I like their agressive price positioning and disruptive mentality about the Swiss-made industry. In recent years, they have become the champion of the Swiss-made value proposition, proving you can make exquisite watches without gouging customers and calling out luxury actors on their greed. Go CW! 👏

I can't stand Nomos watches. Nothing against the brand and the quality of their watches. I simply do not understand their design choices. These absurdly long lugs sit awkwardly on the wrist and create an unsightly gap between the case and the strap. The proportions are not to my tastes and I can't see myself ever buying this style.

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CW gets my vote. I’m a big fan of sporty watches, particularly divers and Christopher Ward make some of the best around plus I’m British. Recently got more into their C63 Sealander range and would really love this one.

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Oris get my next vote love their pointer dates and they make some of the nicest dials in their price range.

Nomos is just not for me, not a fan of Bauhaus minimalist watches, sorry I can appreciate the skill that goes into making something like that but I don’t want one.

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  1. Longines

  2. Oris

  3. Nomos

  4. CW

I believe Longines fits in great with this trio and comes out ahead.

I love the Aquis and BCPD

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The Nomos design is distinct and original, and oh their movements! CW is a budget winner with a homage rather than heritage framework (except the Bell Canto which isn’t my thing).

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Nomos designs leave me cold. I have a big book on Bauhaus and there are many inspirational pages as well as the mundane and dull. Nomos to me goes into the latter. Their regulator is the one that could be a triumph but it's missing some spark.

CW are nearly there for me, I have no doubt something soon will convince me to put my hand in my pocket. Bel Canto was a breakthrough, not something that I would like on my wrist but definitely a marker.

Oris have several that I could go for. Pointer date is particularly well balanced. At present I find them most accessible.

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cornfedksboy
  1. Longines

  2. Oris

  3. Nomos

  4. CW

I believe Longines fits in great with this trio and comes out ahead.

I love the Aquis and BCPD

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The Nomos design is distinct and original, and oh their movements! CW is a budget winner with a homage rather than heritage framework (except the Bell Canto which isn’t my thing).

I agree. If Longines was an option I would have placed them this way.

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cornfedksboy
  1. Longines

  2. Oris

  3. Nomos

  4. CW

I believe Longines fits in great with this trio and comes out ahead.

I love the Aquis and BCPD

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The Nomos design is distinct and original, and oh their movements! CW is a budget winner with a homage rather than heritage framework (except the Bell Canto which isn’t my thing).

Hey, that's cheating 😜

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Nomos, CW, Oris

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Kalsota

I prefer them in this order.

1) Oris

2) Nomos

3) CW

Perfect!

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Nomos

Oris

CW

I remember looking at Christopher Ward when I first started getting really into watches 6 or so years ago because of the ‘value proposition’, but none of the designs really clicked with me (and still don’t).

I really admire Oris for their independence, history, and variety of designs, but haven’t found the ‘need’ for one in my collection.

But Nomos. Ah, Nomos. I’m not entirely sure when I first came across them but boy did they make an impression. I finally had a chance to see some in person and try a few on, and I’m pretty sure the next watch I but will be a 35mm Tangente. Just such subtle brilliance, and a dress watch that I can feel good about wearing in many other situations.

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1) CW; unbelievably high value, leagues above others in their price bracket.

2) Oris; though many designs seem to be crowd pleasers they don't do much for me, however their future seems bright with the introduction of many impressive calibres.

3) Nomos; by far the prettiest from the back with those gorgeous movements, yet a one trick pony when it comes to design and that design just doesn't do it for me.

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complication

Oris first. Has a plucky independent vibe that I love.

Then Nomos, which is a very close second.

Then, way below, Christopher Ward. I can't stand watches from the modern era where some bloke - who isn't even a watchmaker - puts his name on the dial. Just smacks of hubris and wrecks the watch for me instantly. Back in the 19th century or early 20th century when genuine, small-time watchmakers did this... fine. But companies like Christopher Ward? I hate it. I literally won't buy a watch where some businessman has put his name on the dial. That means you too, Dan Henry. And many others. Sheer %$^&ing hubris.

CW are gradually phasing out putting the name on the dials. Personally it matters not a jot to me. Does anyone not like the names Patak Phillipe on the dial?

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Aa_bcfc

CW are gradually phasing out putting the name on the dials. Personally it matters not a jot to me. Does anyone not like the names Patak Phillipe on the dial?

I'm not sure if you fully read my post before saying that, because I actually made the comment, 'Back in the 19th century or early 20th century when genuine, small-time watchmakers did this... fine.' And obviously that would apply to PP - perhaps even doubly so - as not only are they an early 19th century watch outfit, but it's not even one guy's name, but a mash-up of two guy's names. And, on top of that, they were both 'watch guys', not just some businessman wanting to put his name on something. So I'm not sure why you're using that as an example here when it's basically the complete opposite of what I said I didn't like?

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Nomos by far. Exceptional watches

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ORIS is far and away the best. It's not even close.

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Hmmm... Each of the three has its merits, but I wouldn't really want a watch by any of them.

I'd put Christopher Ward on first place here, because they do offer a tremendous value for the money in their watches in terms of specs and finishing. However, what bugs me is that their design language changes too often, feels confused, and I can't get past their decision to use that cross/chequered logo without a brand name on the dial - that last thing really cheapens their looks.

Nomos has excellent movements and build quality, but the logo is dreadful, the design feels too Danish rather than 1930s-1940s Bauhaus. It's like a jumped-up Skagen. And they mostly seem to market their products to wannabe-lumberjack airhead hipsters who post Marxist content on twitter from their Apple devices while sipping gluten-free soya latte at Starbucks. Unlike with their watches, I can't exactly put a finger on what I hate most about their target dem.

Oris... I know it's a forum darling, but I simply think they're not worth the money. I can't say I don't like the way their watches look, because in case of plenty of them that just wouldn't be true. However, they fall miserably short on finishing and movements. And again, it just feels confused to me - on one end, they've got nice, but criminally overpriced watches with crudely finished Sellitas inside. Like, Certina-quality exterior, Glycine-quality innards, and all that for Longines money. If they were priced at the Tissot/Certina level, they'd make an excellent value proposition, but for Longines money, they make a really bad one. Then there are the pieces with in-house movements. OK, fine, but let's be honest, these feel really out of place for a brand that's mostly stoked on re-living their glory days, which glory days were days of pin-lever movements that positioned them maybe above Timex. If Timex would make a watch priced like a Baume & Mercier, would you buy it? I wouldn't. There's just such a huge gap between two tiers of Oris's catalogue - the lower is overpriced, the upper is for hell knows whom.

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My order would be

Oris

CW

Nomos

Oris has been coming out with interesting movement so looking forward to it; Their pointer date also just classic.

CW just really value proposition and they have been nailing their design on Divers

Nomos is good clean design but personally feels like lugs too long.

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I am a Christopher ward fan. I would rate that number one I will rate Nomos number two and oris number three because Christopher Ward offers better finishing for the price and oris is twice the price with the same movement

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Great Post JS. Here is the perspective from someone who is a fan of all 3 doesn’t own a model of and expect for a refurbished vintage Oris. For me the order would be Oris CW then Nomos. I love CW designs personally so that’s why they are ahead Nomos and Oris over the 2 for sure

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Owning or having owned all three, I have strong opinions about each.

I had a C 60 Trident for about two years and it was the kind of quality you'd expect from CW. Very nicely made, solid as a brick bronze case, it was a very nice piece. Eventually though, I tired of the rather bland matte blue dial and sold it with no regrets.

I've had the Tangente Gangreserve for over two years now and totally love this piece. There's nothing I can criticize, it's just near perfect in every aspect, from the basic Bauhaus dial to the amazingly decorated movement, it's a marvelous watch. I'm saving to buy another Nomos as I write.

I purchased the BCPD almost a year ago and have been delighted in it since. Much like the Nomos, everything about this one is perfectly done, even under a 10x loupe, it's hard to find a flaw. This is the only watch I've ever owned (out of over 30) that I will probably buy another in one of the many marvelous colors available, it's just that great. As much as I love it, the ebauche movement leaves something to be desired. It could be better, or at least equal to, the Nomos if it had a higher grade, superbly decorated movement.

So, my ranking is:

Nomos

Oris

CW

All are excellent watches, it's hard to go wrong with any of them.

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XplusYplusZ

lol - I think you know what I mean..

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At first, you're skeptical - are these just homage watches? Then you drink the direct-to-consumer cool-aid. It's magic. Pretty soon you start hanging out in some weird clubs where you show each other yours. Before you know it, you've bought 3 c63s and you're in this CW echo chamber where they're clearly better value than Rolex and everyone without a CW tattoo must be crazy..

am I right?

In a word, no.

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charkerparles

ORIS is far and away the best. It's not even close.

You can say that again 🎯

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Longines vs Oris is a better match, in house movements and history, etc, etc!

I’m not sure I’d have CW pitted against Nomos either. They are both on different paths in terms of products and history!

Thanks🤝

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I love Nomos, the designs really appeal to me and the quality is excellent.

Oris has some pieces I quite like, such as the big crown pointer date and pro pilot.

Christopher Ward… I really like their super compressor and military inspired pieces. Though I’m not sure if I’d get one in the future. I’d opt for a Farer Aqua compressor over the CW.

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Oris has more styles of watches that I'd wear (Divers 65, Big Crown, ProPilot X and non-X, Aquis).

Nomos is aspirational for me, but I only really like the Tangente and only in black and white at 38mm.

Cristopher Ward doesn't really reach outside of Europe and North America, I think. No real exposure to the brand in Asia due to the expensive shipping costs.

So my list, to no surprise, is:

  1. Oris

  2. Nomos

  3. Christopher Ward

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Nomos, all day, everyday!

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