Modern Vintage Divers....the (sometimes) overlooked super compressor
I have not been browsing divers so much these days. To be honest I'm on a bit of a GADA watch streak. Been looking at old SARBs and bronze 3-handers. However I do always make room for divers in my mind, and the last few weeks I've been thinking about super compressors.
In my mind there are three main styles of divers: skins divers, professional divers and super compressors (that's just my opinion, feel free to have your own!). The last one is not as popular, and just happens to be a style missing in my watch box. But as always, oh the choices.
First up for consideration the Baltic Aquascaphe dual crown. This is actually one I looked at long ago. The blue looks striking and I love the minimalist dial. However, my gripe with Baltic continues to be this mental barrier I've created with respect to their pricing. I'm spoiled by other microbrands offering up bracelets and Swiss movements for a similar price. Baltic still uses Miyota or Chinese movements, which are not bad, but they could do better. At the end of the day you're paying for their design moreso than specs, and honestly at that point I'd rather pay for another design and better movement. The real irony is I've overcome this same logic with Seiko, I think it's just the fact Seiko is a heritage brand not a micro. They "did their time" selling affordable watches. But that's a whole other topic for another post...
Next one I've been looking at is the Longines Legend diver. This is honestly the front runner in my mind, but also the most expensive, with good reason however IMO. It has a proper ETA movement, gorgeous finishing, real brand cache and also a nice clean design. There is the issue of the size though, 42 or 36. That is too much of a stretch on both ends. I like small watches don't get me wrong, but a 36mm diver is right at my limits. It could work, moreso than the 42 for sure. That said, thanks to @Kalsota for giving me hope the 39mm is imminent this goes right back to the top of the list. A no-date 39mm at that, my favorite kind!
An interesting one is also the Milus Archimedes. I accidentally found this one, it seems like a bit of a legend diver homage at first to be honest. But if you look closely it's got some less subtle qualities like the huge broad arrow hand, pip seconds hand and burst dial finish. At first glance I thought this was handsome, but honestly the more I looked at it the more I felt it was too crowded for my taste. It's also a proper Swiss watch, but for the price I think I'd rather stretch a little more for the Longines. Maybe if you're into being different you'd pick this instead, but I'm boring.
Lastly, and the one I really have to restrain myself on, is the Dan Henry 1970 diver. It's actually very reasonable as with all Dan Henry watches. A dependable NH35, true vintage design, good dimensions, no-date versions even. That splash of Orange gives it a slightly modern feel too. Importantly it is sub $300 for a very nice piece. The value is the best of all these watches IMO with the Longines coming in second. I could buy it tomorrow and feel only a little guilt; the Longines on the other hand comes with a longer waiting time or larger amount of guilt. Hence the 1970 diver is just gnawing at my conscience saying "just try me out!". It would be my cheapest microbrand watch if I did buy it. Maybe if I finally sell some of my mods I can justify this small splurge on my way to Longines-ville?!
Anyways, that's my latest conundrum. Do any of you own these watches? Why did you pick yours?
Well rounded nerd, into music, guitar pedals, all things DIY, and watches!
All the Baltic Aquascaphes use Miyota, which is Japanese. Miyota is part of Citizen Group (along Bulova). I think their micro-rotors and chronographs are Chinese. But I get your point.
I own the original Aquascaphe, not the super compressor, and I really like it. The Dan Henry you pictured was in the running, but I had my heart set on more of a skin diver. That, and I really like the quick-release beads-of-rice bracelet. I am constantly switching out the bracelet for straps and back again. The watch is a strap monster.
It sounds like you should go with the Dan Henry. It's the watch with the least compromises for you. The size choices of the Longines really don't sound ideal, and for the money, I'd want something that fit really well. I know it's only $300, but from the reviews I've seen, Dan Henry builds a helluva watch.
Quick question- are these true super compressors or simply super-compressor style watches? Thanks.
What you said about Baltic and Seiko is funny because I feel the opposite. I give Baltic a pass, they’re a small company that has to figure all this stuff out themselves. People don’t buy from them because they fondly remember watches they grew up with or wanting to be part of their heritage. They have to earn customers with every model.
Seiko is gigantic with a long history of making watches. They churn out who knows how many watches a year, so when they make mistakes or I think they’re being cheap I have little patience. I feel like they’re phoning it in with dozens of versions of the same watch. It takes very little work to put gold hands on a watch and pretend it’s a different model. Then change the movement, and that’s a different model too.
Love the long jeans
I have the Blue Dan Henry 1970 and I would add the Circula Super Compressor to your list I love mine
All the Baltic Aquascaphes use Miyota, which is Japanese. Miyota is part of Citizen Group (along Bulova). I think their micro-rotors and chronographs are Chinese. But I get your point.
I own the original Aquascaphe, not the super compressor, and I really like it. The Dan Henry you pictured was in the running, but I had my heart set on more of a skin diver. That, and I really like the quick-release beads-of-rice bracelet. I am constantly switching out the bracelet for straps and back again. The watch is a strap monster.
It sounds like you should go with the Dan Henry. It's the watch with the least compromises for you. The size choices of the Longines really don't sound ideal, and for the money, I'd want something that fit really well. I know it's only $300, but from the reviews I've seen, Dan Henry builds a helluva watch.
I don't think Japanese movements or Chinese movements are bad tbh. Its just one of those things with Baltic where I like them, but not enough to pay what they ask. I respect how popular they are though, this is just my opinion, they're obviously doing just fine.
That Dan Henry does look tempting though...
Quick question- are these true super compressors or simply super-compressor style watches? Thanks.
That's a great question, I think non of these are actually true super compressors, just the style.
Funny enough, a very cheap watch brand, Vostok, are technically compressors. They don't have the dual crown styling, but they are designed with a case back that compresses as the ATM goes up when one dives.
Love the long jeans
Perfect spelling of the pronunciation.
That's a great question, I think non of these are actually true super compressors, just the style.
Funny enough, a very cheap watch brand, Vostok, are technically compressors. They don't have the dual crown styling, but they are designed with a case back that compresses as the ATM goes up when one dives.
Thanks! You have a tough choice ahead. They’re all great.
I’ve got the Farer Leven II
A titanium super compressor with a Sellita movement, 41mm diameter 45mm lug to lug, and a beautiful dial. Farer also have the Endeavour if the Leven is too colourful
I tried the Dan Henry and the dial was beautiful but it felt a bit cheap in hand to me. I also tried the Spinnaker Bradner, but that just didn’t fit me right, this Farer definitely feels and in my opinion looks better to me.
What you said about Baltic and Seiko is funny because I feel the opposite. I give Baltic a pass, they’re a small company that has to figure all this stuff out themselves. People don’t buy from them because they fondly remember watches they grew up with or wanting to be part of their heritage. They have to earn customers with every model.
Seiko is gigantic with a long history of making watches. They churn out who knows how many watches a year, so when they make mistakes or I think they’re being cheap I have little patience. I feel like they’re phoning it in with dozens of versions of the same watch. It takes very little work to put gold hands on a watch and pretend it’s a different model. Then change the movement, and that’s a different model too.
I'm sure Baltic work very hard at what they do and it shows with their success. However they are victims of comparison, same as every other microbrand out there. For example, my Lorier Neptune is just as nice a watch as the Aquascaphe IMO and comes with a bracelet and a Miyota movement. It also costs $200 CAD less than the Baltic. This is the type of mental barrier I can't break through with the brand.
As for Seiko I agree, they can and should do better. But that said, they are completely vertically integrated. They make absolutely everything about their watches themselves. That's alot of stuff to figure out! I think they're just at a point where they feel it's time to cash in on that hard work and are making people pay for the right to wear their name, not just pay for the watch. This is not dissimilar to Swiss brands. You and I may think they're overpriced (though I still pay up, ha) but in one or two generations it will just be normal to watch buyers.
I have liked the Longines Legend Diver for a long time but just never made it a priority. One of my regular ads was ending their relationship with Longines a number of years ago selling off remaining eventory at 1/2 but another customer beat me to the punch with a LLD, it was not until I noticed a black PVD iteration with a rubber strap and deployant clasp that I decided to scratch the itch. 42mm which is one of the case sizes that I prefer still with a date that does mess with the dial but is a very capable watch in all respects. A 39mm no date would have been nice also but I am in a black watch phase.
I’ve got the Farer Leven II
A titanium super compressor with a Sellita movement, 41mm diameter 45mm lug to lug, and a beautiful dial. Farer also have the Endeavour if the Leven is too colourful
I tried the Dan Henry and the dial was beautiful but it felt a bit cheap in hand to me. I also tried the Spinnaker Bradner, but that just didn’t fit me right, this Farer definitely feels and in my opinion looks better to me.
Love Farer, but this one is not "vintagy" enough for my taste. Even the Baltic is only marginally there.
I suspect the Dan Henry will deliver quality proportional to the price point. Even if I got it, it would just be to scratch the itch while I plan for a Longines at this point.
I'm sure Baltic work very hard at what they do and it shows with their success. However they are victims of comparison, same as every other microbrand out there. For example, my Lorier Neptune is just as nice a watch as the Aquascaphe IMO and comes with a bracelet and a Miyota movement. It also costs $200 CAD less than the Baltic. This is the type of mental barrier I can't break through with the brand.
As for Seiko I agree, they can and should do better. But that said, they are completely vertically integrated. They make absolutely everything about their watches themselves. That's alot of stuff to figure out! I think they're just at a point where they feel it's time to cash in on that hard work and are making people pay for the right to wear their name, not just pay for the watch. This is not dissimilar to Swiss brands. You and I may think they're overpriced (though I still pay up, ha) but in one or two generations it will just be normal to watch buyers.
I get your point about Baltic, they should be held accountable for how they stack up to similar brands. I tend to pick watches based on the overall “feel” of them. This is determined by balancing how the various parts of the watch look, materials, specs, and whatever else comes to mind. But in the end, I’m more likely to buy a watch I like the look of with an average movement than one with a great movement that just looks ok. I guess my point is that I don’t get into the details as much as many, I just look at it and decide based on how the overall package feels to me.
As for Seiko, I’ve never thought of it that way. What you say makes sense, I guess the difference is that Swiss watches became SWISS WATCHES before I was born, so I’m used to paying for that. It’s just tough to justify spending $1000 on something I could have gotten for $700 not that many years ago. It’s like the premium on a used Rolex. Maybe it’s worth it, but knowing how easy these watches were to get a few years ago turns me off.
I have liked the Longines Legend Diver for a long time but just never made it a priority. One of my regular ads was ending their relationship with Longines a number of years ago selling off remaining eventory at 1/2 but another customer beat me to the punch with a LLD, it was not until I noticed a black PVD iteration with a rubber strap and deployant clasp that I decided to scratch the itch. 42mm which is one of the case sizes that I prefer still with a date that does mess with the dial but is a very capable watch in all respects. A 39mm no date would have been nice also but I am in a black watch phase.
That is a bummer you missed the watch sale! My current AD is doing the same with Citizen watches. If only I wanted a Navihawk, but that is not my style at all. Enjoy the dark watches!
Yes, many Longines have lug to lug dimensions that are too long IMO. This is why I was thinking moreso of the 36mm. Have to try it on. The supposed 39mm that's rumoured is the one I really want to see though.
Alot of CW fans on this thread. Again, very nice watch, but I'm going for the old-timey look personally.
Lug to Lug on Zulu 39 is just sad(
42mm is absolutely cool and I was waiting for this 39 release just to see what I call a "soap proportion". You know when you buy a brick of soap and then it turns to this egg-like shape, with a long ends and bubbly centre)
And Spirit 37 has the same problem. Champagne dial is so great, but case dimensions are too off for me.
But c'est la vie
I own several but this one is my pick for best value....
I own several but this one is my pick for best value....
Helson strikes again! You really get me John lol.
Helson strikes again! You really get me John lol.
I really wanted the Longines Legend no date, but I could not find one for a reasonable price! People want a mint for them even if they are beat up. The Helson is a fantastic option in this regard.
Yes, many Longines have lug to lug dimensions that are too long IMO. This is why I was thinking moreso of the 36mm. Have to try it on. The supposed 39mm that's rumoured is the one I really want to see though.
Alot of CW fans on this thread. Again, very nice watch, but I'm going for the old-timey look personally.
Not as bad as Nomos. I mean c’mon! Look at those things!
LOOK!
I really wanted the Longines Legend no date, but I could not find one for a reasonable price! People want a mint for them even if they are beat up. The Helson is a fantastic option in this regard.
Yes agreed, @Kalsota is right, best I wait for the 39mm no-date at this point.
Yes agreed, @Kalsota is right, best I wait for the 39mm no-date at this point.
Patience!
I've got the yellow RZE Resolute Supercompressor. True supercomoressor, titanium, great bracelet. 12hr bezel might be a no-go (was a plus for me), and they definitely lack vintage styling. A miyota movement might turn off some, but it hasn't bothered me.
Love the yellow, the white was calling my name too though. Overall a nice compact GADA for me.
Waiting is worth the while! For me, 42mm is perfect 😊
I would go for the baltic. The indexes are better on this one in my opinion. Its mouvements is not a stop for me but I understand. About the longines legend diver, to be honest I don't like this watch even if longines is on of my favourite brand.
My vote of these goes to Longines. I believe they had an actual compressor back in the day.
I’d suggest looking at CW as many others mentioned.
I have liked the Longines Legend Diver for a long time but just never made it a priority. One of my regular ads was ending their relationship with Longines a number of years ago selling off remaining eventory at 1/2 but another customer beat me to the punch with a LLD, it was not until I noticed a black PVD iteration with a rubber strap and deployant clasp that I decided to scratch the itch. 42mm which is one of the case sizes that I prefer still with a date that does mess with the dial but is a very capable watch in all respects. A 39mm no date would have been nice also but I am in a black watch phase.
The 39mm no date is supposed to arrive this year
I own several but this one is my pick for best value....
Didn't even know Helson made this
The 39mm no date is supposed to arrive this year
👍
Didn't even know Helson made this
Helson makes a decent product, and their service is reliable.