Battle of the micro-brand “military” watches
Like many of you I’ve caught the micro-brand bug recently. More specifically, I’m obsessed with some of the heritage inspired “military” field watches available from the likes of Vertex, Christopher Ward and Studio Underd0g.
I’m wrestling with the decision on where to go with all this, and thought there’s no where better to have the discussion than WC. My thoughts on the three main contenders below, but would love to hear your thoughts:
what do you think of the three watches I’ve got on the short list?
are there other watches you think I’ve missed?
Vertex M100a
Vertex is the only brand on my list with a genuine history of producing military watches. The M100a has some real military DNA, based on the Cal 59 “WWW dirty dozen” watch produced by Vertex for the British Ministry of Defence in 1944. The design is classic 1940s field watch (love that small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock), but the engineering is modern, with sapphire crystal, solid lume Arabic numerals, a Sellita SW 260-1 movement, and 100m water resistance. Only a couple of things let it down, the price, which at £2,500 is more than double that of either the other two watches, and the lack of COSC certification, which seems a missed opportunity.
Christopher Ward C65 “Sandhurst”
This is a real beauty, with a design based on the Smiths W10 field watch, issued to the British military in the 1960s. The design is pretty faithful to its Smith-based inspiration, but like the Vertex, the engineering is modern, with acres of lume on the numerals and indices, a COSC certified Selita SW200, sapphire crystal and 150m water resistance. What blows me away is that you get all this for under £1,000. Only down side for me is the handset, which seem a little clumsy and not quite in keeping with the aesthetic of the watch.
Studio Underd0g 02Series Field Watch
For anyone familiar with StudioUnderd0g you might be surprised at what appears to be a rather understated black dialled watch. Don’t worry, Richard (the CEO) hasn’t gone all monochrome: the other versions of the watch are all in bubblegum bright colours. But while the more playful versions are definitely more fun, this so called “midnight” version really stood out to me. You see, it’s a proper, faithful, honest to god, field watch. Like the other two watches, it stands out from any vintage cousins by having an abundance of lume, Selita movement (this time it’s the manual SW210 variant) 100m water resistance, and a dial construction that’s just a bit trippy (the numerals hover over the base of the dial, giving it a 3d effect). It’s the cheapest of the three at just £800. Down sides are, arguably, the lack of a proper military heritage, and the fact that it’s the “dull” version of a “fun” watch.
As you can tell, I’m pretty smitten with all three of three watches. Full disclosure, I’ve already bought the StudioUnderd0g (it was now or never given the pre-order window was just a few hours). But the other two are still calling to me, with the Christopher Ward currently edging ahead of the Vertex, but mostly due to cost. Oh, and I already own an IWC Mark XX, which according to my wife looks identical to these three watches (non of which she can tell apart either).
If anyone has wrestled with the same choices I’d love to hear how you resolved the dilemma. For everyone else, let me know what you’d do, and also any watches you think I should be considering as well / instead of these.
Collecting for almost 20years and obsessed with watches for a lot longer. Not a flipper - more a buy and keeper. Not a huge collection - but they’re all much loved. Have more watches that I’m sure I c...
I have that same Sandhurst. I was just thinking of selling it this weekend, mostly because I have a C63 Dune in black sand. You can look at my post and find it there. You can't go wrong with Christopher Ward. I love the light catcher case and the 38mm is almost perfect as I would prefer a 39mm. The Vertex looks cool but I have no experience with it.
$2500 on a Vertex seems risky. Young revival-style micro-brand with a limited track record.
I wouldn’t call Christopher Ward a micro. Seems like you’d be settling so why buy it? Same can be said of the Underdog based on your comments.
Why not look at CWC?
I agree with Magstime’s CWC suggestion above, and Vaer makes some good field watches, too, with a wide variety.
I have that same Sandhurst. I was just thinking of selling it this weekend, mostly because I have a C63 Dune in black sand. You can look at my post and find it there. You can't go wrong with Christopher Ward. I love the light catcher case and the 38mm is almost perfect as I would prefer a 39mm. The Vertex looks cool but I have no experience with it.
Correction. My Sandhurst is the Series 1. The series 2 is what is in your photo. The main difference is the Series one had the period correct baton hands, the Series two had the CW hands.
There's no way I'd buy the Vertex. These zombie brands that re-emerge and trade on a heritage which - to varying degrees depending on which zombie brand we're talking about - isn't really earned, strike me as jacking their prices 50-100% just because of the name they're trading on. The CW is very nice, although I'm not a fan of the brand, broadly speaking, and the Underdog is great... aside from those bloody two silver things on the dial. Throws the whole thing off for me (while conversely, it might be what pulls it together for others). So, on balance, I'd go for none of them, but some are better than others.
There's no way I'd buy the Vertex. These zombie brands that re-emerge and trade on a heritage which - to varying degrees depending on which zombie brand we're talking about - isn't really earned, strike me as jacking their prices 50-100% just because of the name they're trading on. The CW is very nice, although I'm not a fan of the brand, broadly speaking, and the Underdog is great... aside from those bloody two silver things on the dial. Throws the whole thing off for me (while conversely, it might be what pulls it together for others). So, on balance, I'd go for none of them, but some are better than others.
I do believe it's still the same family running Vertex (grandson I believe), but I concur , it does seem steep given the number of choices in the category.
CWC, Marathon, Hamilton, Benrus give you all the feels at a fraction of the Vertex.
We have similar tastes 🍻
Ignoring the SU as you have already bought it (congrats) , While the heritage link of the Vertex is great , their pricing is somewhat on the high side and I feel is a stumbling block for many people that have thought about purchasing one. They do now have a physical store in London and ground rent has to be paid I guess.
The CW has been and out of my basket loads of times , it looks to be an all round decent watch.
Might I suggest another option , if you are on a field watch kick , maybe have a look at CWC , they still make the actual field watch that was once issued to the British military and they are fairly cheap. They also do a few other heritage re-issue versions. They are available in Auto but most feel the Quartz is the config to get as that is the issue spec and I agree.
I bought one for my Dad recently, its a perfect grab and go watch IMHO.
https://www.cwcwatch.com/collections/m-o-d-spec/products/cwc-g10-issue-watch-no-date-with-battery-hatch
I do believe it's still the same family running Vertex (grandson I believe), but I concur , it does seem steep given the number of choices in the category.
CWC, Marathon, Hamilton, Benrus give you all the feels at a fraction of the Vertex.
There's a familial relationship, yes, but it's still a zombie brand. It went under in 1972 and died then and there. Resurrected in 2015, a mere 43 years later (!!!), it's not the same business in any way. It's like the bloke who bought the Smiths name and started whacking it on watches. People get excited that it says 'Smiths' but it's not a real Smiths watch.
This is where I landed the last time I was looking at watches with military history. This has more dive watches influences. They were taking orders a month or so ago. It’s more affordable but there is a waitlist I think.
I’m usually giving CW the nod. Vertex has the best crown. I think the small seconds is more robust design. I like Studio Uderground & CW but not for field watches.
Serica 6190 maybe? While I prefer the dial of the old 4512 WMB with the railroad track and no text, the case on the new one looks better with the bombay lugs (and the case on my 4512 is excellent). Soprod M100 COSC is a bit of an outlier though. Some dislike the screw-down crown on a manual-wind watch, but the threading is as smooth as my Rolex (way better than my Seikos and other micros) and the actual winding feel of the SOPROD in mine is simply sublime.
I would go with the CW. I like their watches based on all the British military academies. I would pick one up, but they are all too similar to my Sinn 556A, which is not going anywhere.
Was gonna say the same…CWC is worth a look
Swiss watch company has several field watches that might meet your criteria. The latest model is the trench.
There's no way I'd buy the Vertex. These zombie brands that re-emerge and trade on a heritage which - to varying degrees depending on which zombie brand we're talking about - isn't really earned, strike me as jacking their prices 50-100% just because of the name they're trading on. The CW is very nice, although I'm not a fan of the brand, broadly speaking, and the Underdog is great... aside from those bloody two silver things on the dial. Throws the whole thing off for me (while conversely, it might be what pulls it together for others). So, on balance, I'd go for none of them, but some are better than others.
I understand your point about zombie brands trying to cash in on the company's heritage, but Vertex isn't a typically re-emergence though. It was resurrected by the great grandson of the original founder so to me it still has the heritage. Same with Fears for that matter.
I went for the VERTEX, love the history behind the watch and quality was first class. Worth looking CWC https://www.cwcwatch.com/ as they still make watches for the military.
I would go with the CW. I like their watches based on all the British military academies. I would pick one up, but they are all too similar to my Sinn 556A, which is not going anywhere.
Love the Sinn 104, but maybe I should have a look at the 556, looks great on a Nato / Bund.
For me a true military watch needs the small seconds. But I'm British 😉
Smiths prs29 maybe? Almost 1:1 of w10
Been really interested in the new Smiths brand. Looked at the everest a while back and would have pulled the trigger if they had stock. Only real challenge for me is the historically accurate size: at 36mm, it's pretty small (I have a 7.5inch wrist).
Swiss watch company has several field watches that might meet your criteria. The latest model is the trench.
I love their designs, and they offer a hell of a lot of watch for the price: titanium, Selita movement, Sapphire crystal, all at <£500. But I'm embarrassed to admit, I really hate the logo. Sounds petty, but the logo is painful.
We have similar tastes 🍻
Ignoring the SU as you have already bought it (congrats) , While the heritage link of the Vertex is great , their pricing is somewhat on the high side and I feel is a stumbling block for many people that have thought about purchasing one. They do now have a physical store in London and ground rent has to be paid I guess.
The CW has been and out of my basket loads of times , it looks to be an all round decent watch.
Might I suggest another option , if you are on a field watch kick , maybe have a look at CWC , they still make the actual field watch that was once issued to the British military and they are fairly cheap. They also do a few other heritage re-issue versions. They are available in Auto but most feel the Quartz is the config to get as that is the issue spec and I agree.
I bought one for my Dad recently, its a perfect grab and go watch IMHO.
https://www.cwcwatch.com/collections/m-o-d-spec/products/cwc-g10-issue-watch-no-date-with-battery-hatch
Have only had a very quick look at CWC in the past. Their reissues look amazing, but just not been entirely sure what I make of the brand. Especially like the Mellor-72 Mechanical, which offers a slightly cheaper version of Hamilton's Khaki Pilot Pioneer, both of which reproduce the W10 design.
Is Christopher Ward even a microband anymore? I feel like it's grown in popularity to the point where I see it more often on WC than some of the mainstream brands.
Victorinox is the most underrated brand on watch crunch.
This would have been my suggestion as well…if only Timefactors weren’t such a hassle to deal with and actually kept them in stock.
True 😅 just bite the bullet on the secondary market hahah
Been really interested in the new Smiths brand. Looked at the everest a while back and would have pulled the trigger if they had stock. Only real challenge for me is the historically accurate size: at 36mm, it's pretty small (I have a 7.5inch wrist).
Ah i see yeah its a nifty 36mm but i would assume it would looks cool on any wrist size 😃
This is where we reach an interesting question: Is bloodline important when it comes to what makes a watch company, and so long as someone related to the founder is involved, whatever happens in the present is OK? That the watches themselves can come from anywhere, but so long as there's a familial bond in the business, it's all good?
Or is the importance to collectors of what really 'makes' a brand more about an unbroken line of being business, retaining all the tooling, making watches in the same way, and a dozen other aspects that are totally lost whenever a business goes under?
As I said in an earlier reply, Vertex went boom in 1972 and was dead, cremated, and buried. It's resurrection in 2015 - 43 years later - is basically a guy coming along and starting a brand-new business and through a familial relationship, can name it after the business that disappeared all those years ago. It's inarguable that it's not the same business (surely that's a no-brainer?), and for mine personally, just because he has the same blood as someone who once ran the business, doesn't add any fairy dust to the story.
Personally, I'd prefer a business that just continued, unbroken, regardless of owner.
Very good points and an interesting discussion for sure. For me, I would prefer a brand that has remained uninturrupted, but I feel like brands that are brought back by a family member retain the heritage more than if it was brought back by someone else. And just because the brand is now run by a family member doesn't mean I give them an automatic pass, but I also am not automatically discrediting them. I think both Vertex and Fears have done a great job at retaining their heritage.
I would check out C24 for general listings. Some great CWC pieces are available at very reasonable prices. https://www.chrono24.com/cwc/index.htm?goal_suggest=1.
It also depends if you want a new watch or are happy to buy used. Most secondhand ones will not come with papers, box or have been serviced (unless an aircrew complication), but then I don't think there is an issue with authenticity as most of these owners will have either bought them becuase they like the military connection or were issued with them.
The one I got issued is now strapped to my bike, so I know when my wife will start to get annoyed if I am out too long 😜
My ranking would be
Vertex
Studio Underd0g
Christopher Ward
But only because the M100 is such a beauty. 👍🏻
I want the Benrus Type 1 or 2 so bad!
Check out Weiss, they have a 38mm 3 hander and a 42mm small seconds.