What criterias make for a good dress watch ?
I think everybody will agree that a dress watch is a watch that is associated to be worn while being properly dressed. While I guess there's a few exception here and there, most people will agree a that a dress watch isn't a watch that you wear while scuba diving or wear while training at the gym.
With that being said, my main questionning is what makes a dress watch. What exactly would you consider features that fits into the dress watch category ?
Younger, I would have associated any watch with a white dial design and leather strap was enough to be in the dress category, as I only had eyes for chronographs. My first Tissot (Gentlemen) was for me a dress watch because of those two reasons. Today, I would still argue that a metal bracelet feels more into sport category, but leather seems more appropriated for dress watches.
My non-watch entousiasts friends also argue that any expensive watch are dress watches since watches are useless in 21st century. So from their statements, anything over 300$ are dress watches worthy to be worn in suits. They would also argue that any gold watches fit into the dress category, wich I think might be true.
On one side, I would say a simple design such as a bauhaus watch can be a dress watch, while on the other side, a complicated watch like a moonphase can also be a dress watch. Or ridiculously complicated watches sush as Jacob & Co. to fit into dress category.
I would say a vintage look, early 20th century designs to fit into the dress category. For example, the Oris Pointer date feels dressy to me with it's vintage design.
I would also say a textured dial, like the Tudor 1926 or Seiko Cocktail time to fit into this category, because they are watches that look comes over function, or tool watches.
Small sizes also tend to be put into dress category, so maybe there's hope for a Casio G-Shock in 35mm to fit into the dress category XD
What are the rules, the criterias that make a good dress watch for you ?
No tool functions is where I'd start
I think
3 hander
Thin
Roman or Breguet numerals
Leather strap
So
Tank Louis
Breguet Classique
Calatrava
Longines master 190
Something like that
Something that doesn’t detract from the rest of your dressy outfit/suit. A watch shouldn’t be the focal point, but add to the complete look.
From there, anything goes. 2 hand (think Hamilton Intramatic) or 3 hands…complications…or if you’re James Bond, rock a Seamaster on a NATO.
Something that doesn’t detract from the rest of your dressy outfit/suit. A watch shouldn’t be the focal point, but add to the complete look.
From there, anything goes. 2 hand (think Hamilton Intramatic) or 3 hands…complications…or if you’re James Bond, rock a Seamaster on a NATO.
See, this is something I've never understood. I don't tend toward flashy watches, but why do dress watches have to disappear? Most watch folks will say that a dress watch should slide under your cuff and not call attention to itself, but why?
I get it if we're all old money and we don't believe in calling attention to ourselves. But secretly we regular folks are all hoping people notice our suit or shoes or belt...whatever we splurged for. And yes, we want everyone to notice the quality not the flashiness, but who actually does? When was the last time anyone noticed your $1200 shoes or $400 belt? Never, because very few people can tell really nice shoes from nice shoes at a glance. And nobody knows what that watch you're wearing is either unless it's a Rolex.
So why bother with it being simple and unassuming? Most people on here aren't super-conservative with their other watches, so why with a dress watch? If you like a meteorite or fume dial, why not on a dress watch?
Maybe it's just me, but I don't understand why the genre of dress watches is so tied up with simplicity. I don't get why that expensive-ass watch you only wear four times a year can't call a little attention to itself.
It would always depend on level of formality, day vs night, temperature, etc.
Any of the watches I've posted I either have worn, or would wear with a suit. Everything from blazer, up to black tie tuxedo (white shawl collar obvs) or mess dress. (Mess dress is the military version of tuxedo level.)
Evening dress aka tux or higher, two hander, on leather, or fancy material strap. Or if I want to be tongue in cheek nylon single pass.
Outdoor wedding in the fall with tweed, simple three hander on leather or sailcloth, or very smooth texture nylon or tweed strap. I was married in the white dial Orient, bespoke, hand sewn honey/whiskey colored leather strap, blue accent thread.
Swanky evening out for dinner, etc integrated bracelet or thin diver on bracelet.
New Years Eve or Mardi Gras, I'll let you guess which one lol.
Purist rules:
Leather strap, plain, no coloured stitching.
Two hander, no other complication
Slim, to fit under sleeve, no dinner plate sizes
Precious metal or plated
White, cream or black dial
Allowable:
Sub-seconds or even central seconds
Steel
Other non-bright colours
Date.
I've seen Keanu Reeves wear a Patek Ellipse with jeans and T Shirt. But he's John Wick.
See, this is something I've never understood. I don't tend toward flashy watches, but why do dress watches have to disappear? Most watch folks will say that a dress watch should slide under your cuff and not call attention to itself, but why?
I get it if we're all old money and we don't believe in calling attention to ourselves. But secretly we regular folks are all hoping people notice our suit or shoes or belt...whatever we splurged for. And yes, we want everyone to notice the quality not the flashiness, but who actually does? When was the last time anyone noticed your $1200 shoes or $400 belt? Never, because very few people can tell really nice shoes from nice shoes at a glance. And nobody knows what that watch you're wearing is either unless it's a Rolex.
So why bother with it being simple and unassuming? Most people on here aren't super-conservative with their other watches, so why with a dress watch? If you like a meteorite or fume dial, why not on a dress watch?
Maybe it's just me, but I don't understand why the genre of dress watches is so tied up with simplicity. I don't get why that expensive-ass watch you only wear four times a year can't call a little attention to itself.
Oh I agree with you in terms of the dial. It doesn’t need to be plain as I would consider any Seiko Cocktail time a dress watch…in fact, I have an older black one with a sunray dial that I call my “Weddings and Funerals Watch”. I would say keep the dial to a tasteful color (white, black, gray, blue, beige, etc) and not orange or yellow.
Purist rules:
Leather strap, plain, no coloured stitching.
Two hander, no other complication
Slim, to fit under sleeve, no dinner plate sizes
Precious metal or plated
White, cream or black dial
Allowable:
Sub-seconds or even central seconds
Steel
Other non-bright colours
Date.
Is it this one?
This is probably the most dressy watch that I own, and I love it. I am leaning more and more into dress pieces as I grow as a collector. They should be relatively slim, not necessary disappear under a cuff but no taking chunks out the furniture as you walk around, and have an element of elegance to them. They dont need to be bland at all, but understated is nice, not look like they are trying too hard.
Personally, my criteria would be:
Thin and elegant
Smaller than 38mm (well if a wrist larger than 7inch, maybe 38 would look like a 35mm)
Time only
But really thin and elegant is my go to.
As such, for me, my vintage watches fit the bill
As they say, a picture is worth a thousand words...here are my thoughts on dress watch...
1. It is not about the money! A jeans that is made for you by your local tailor and not by children in Bangladesh out of sustainably produced and refined garment should cost some hundred dollars. Nevertheless it would not be considered a dress trousers. You can dig deep in the pocket and buy one or more Jacob & Co. watches. You will get some adorable, ultra fancy masterpieces of toy watches that are best worn on your naked body as your only piece of dress to show off its fanciness in all its shine, but it is no dress watch, but just a toy and an advertisement carrier.
2. For his confirmation ceremony I went shopping with my 14 years old. He chose a dark blue suit with few red and white accents by a London based brand, dress shirts, tie, dress handkerchief, cuff links, etc. He was clear that he not an 80 yo living dead so that some sort of leather shoes were no way to go. Instead he combined the suit with a pair of new Chuck Taylors in a dark blue denim colour. Following he put the leather belt aside and replaced it by a more sporty blue and white textile that was even more expensive than the original leather. Though sporty accents the overall look was quite balanced and classy. He dressed up and stood a while in front of the mirror, changing this and that to refine the look. Suddenly he came over with "Dad! I need a watch that matches my suit." As I already payed some hundreds of Euros I was not ready to through another stack of money on top, but I suggested that we can search the web together for something that he can afford himself and that I would go to jeweler with him. So we did, and when we went shopping again he put on his complete ceremonial attire to make sure that the watch really matches. Must have been a funny picture with him in high dress and me in casuals. At least the shop assistant knew whom to serve immediately 😂. They even didn't ask me. He put on the watch that he chose in the internet, moved in front of the mirror and checked the match. When he was satisfied he payed himself. His ressources are limited and he had plans with his money so that he kept far away from the 300 € line although he eyed some automatic watches higher in the shelf too. This watch is usually not considered a dress watch but in this situation it was a perfect match and refined the overall look so that it is a dress watch in this circumstances.
For me a simple designed time only on a leather strap. My best sample is an old Seamaster.
As they say, a picture is worth a thousand words...here are my thoughts on dress watch...
Off the top rope again...
My more humble options:
Mine tend to be gold, and thin. They don't disappear, but they don't shout their presence either.
I really like this question, especially in modern times where that distinction of dress vs sport is less and less clear. In some ways, I think of Supreme Court Justice Potter Stewart when asked to describe his test for obscenity in 1964: "I know it when I see it."
As far as the idea that a classic 2 hand watch without complications that slips under a cuff, I have always believed that it comes from the idea that if you are at an affair or environment where you are formally dressed, the watch shouldn't be distracting and you shouldn't indicate that you are focused on the time (implied by the extra accuracy of a seconds hand or possibly the distraction of it). The watch is an accessory to your attire, but it is polite/courteous to have your attention solely on the event (a wedding, a boardroom meeting, etc). Checking your watch in those places would generally be considered rude, so having a watch that does not draw attention fits that.
I could be completely wrong about that, however.
Off the top rope again...
My more humble options:
Mine tend to be gold, and thin. They don't disappear, but they don't shout their presence either.
Fantastic selection, as usual, Greg! 🍻