… it’s what you do with it that counts.

I think, given the sheer number of threads regarding watch sizing, I feel the need to share the following graphic I found.

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Source: Goldammer Vintage Watches

It’s not perfect (and slightly inaccurate at times - 1930s - 1940s military was running 27mm-34mm on the regular), but it is a start. We have always had big watches, we have always had small watches. The wristwatch is a fashion item that was originally designed for ladies whose dresses did not have pockets, thus making the concept of a pocket watch impractical. It wasn’t until rich aviator playboys and WWI that the practicality of having time on the wrist of a gentlemen was appreciated, and then it was deemed fashionable. By the end of the 30s it was considered normal. Anything bigger was usually worn over a specialist suit, unless you were Italian, and then you wore it bareback hand-delivering torpedos to Allied ships with a re-cased pocket watch on your wrist. By the end of the 60s, the “tool” wristwatch was popular due to sporting tie-ins, or diving, or mountaineering. The “sports watch” is a 70s trope, thanks Gerald!

By the 90s, despite a crash and a reboot, 40mm plus was considered the standard, maybe because we were still coked-up from the 80s, and suffering from fragile masculinity as our film stars and pinups got bigger. One could argue that a normalisation to 36mm is on the cards (but that would be contrived). You’ve always had a choice - use it.

So… yes, that watch is fine for you. Your forefathers called…

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Thanks

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I won’t wear a 36mm watch and you can’t make me! 😜😂

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willinsf

I won’t wear a 36mm watch and you can’t make me! 😜😂

<here we go again…>

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Dress watches have been downsizing. Wow.

That explains why the IWC portugieser was so big in the beginning.

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Avoid sport, chrono, and diver watches. Got it. That average line shows that we are in record bad time, but we may have reached the peak and experiencing a regression to the mean.

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BadgeHoarder

Dress watches have been downsizing. Wow.

That explains why the IWC portugieser was so big in the beginning.

One would argue that the “dress” has remained relatively consistent, and is more unfashionable than ever. It’s only miserable bearded hipsters like me who seem to buy them and wear them without irony.

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PoorMansRolex

Avoid sport, chrono, and diver watches. Got it. That average line shows that we are in record bad time, but we may have reached the peak and experiencing a regression to the mean.

Good advice in general, to be frank.

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Porthole

One would argue that the “dress” has remained relatively consistent, and is more unfashionable than ever. It’s only miserable bearded hipsters like me who seem to buy them and wear them without irony.

I also buy dress watches. But I get you, not many people want dress watches these days. You can't really flex it when its under a cuff.

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BadgeHoarder

I also buy dress watches. But I get you, not many people want dress watches these days. You can't really flex it when its under a cuff.

The best kind of flex is an understated flex. If you know, you know. This comment does not apply to Seiko - the brand has been taking you all for a ride for years; the best watches with Seiko movements aren’t made by Seiko.

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Wait, isn't 30mm really a woman's watch?

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Like I said - it’s not perfect. I even believe the military sizing curve is wrong in general, which I allude to. The overall vibe is what I feel should be of interest to the group, hence why I thought I would take an screengrab and share, especially if you want to ask if your watch is too small.

I have linked to the source, so take it up with the analyst if you would like to critique the data capture. In the grand scheme of things, judging by how many times this is asked, and the collective vintage allergy, I doubt people are going to pick this apart, they either want assurance that their masculinity remains intact at 36mm, or they need reminding that all gentlemen’s watches were not 40mm as a standard.

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Aurelian

Wait, isn't 30mm really a woman's watch?

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So you think your charts and good arguments are going to make me wear a sub 40mm watch...

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Sizing is one thing, market choice is another. I doubt your forefathers would get a nosebleed at range of options available to them back in the day. Gentlemen’s watches have been available at 36mm and less for longer than they have been 40mm plus.

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It may be picked up as a "sports watch" later.

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SimonB

So you think your charts and good arguments are going to make me wear a sub 40mm watch...

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Again, not my charts (source is provided), but Porthole Public Information Provider is literally doing the heavy lifting (again)…

Considering you wear a lot of Aragon, I would be surprised if any of your watches were sub-45mm. Here is the thing - you have your range, and your preference, and that’s fine. I suppose at 50mm you could ask if the watch was too small (too big? meh - I think you are literally in land mine territory, and divers were initially massive if you consider Panerai), but it isn’t. You don’t have to wear sub-36mm either, but know that it’s perfectly acceptable for a gentlemen to wear 27mm+ (as some military watches from the ‘30s were 27mm).

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Ah, the hi-consumption 80's, responsible for so many things we still "enjoy" today.

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Reizer

Ah, the hi-consumption 80's, responsible for so many things we still "enjoy" today.

As we watch the death-throes of capitalism, let’s have one more round eh?

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BadgeHoarder

I also buy dress watches. But I get you, not many people want dress watches these days. You can't really flex it when its under a cuff.

The flex is part of the problem, if you ask me. Dudes out here wearing watches visible from space. 🫨🚀

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Pocket watches - yes, but don’t be obtuse, we are taking about wristwatches.

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Reizer

The flex is part of the problem, if you ask me. Dudes out here wearing watches visible from space. 🫨🚀

Thats me. Sometimes I pull out my 42mm and wear it like I just don’t care.

6.5 inch wrist here btw

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I applaud all the smaller watches being put out for those with smaller wrists. I would much rather see an appropriately sized watch on a small wrist than say someone with a 6.5“ or smaller wrist thinking they’re pulling off a 44mm Zenith Defy chrono 🤣

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Porthole

Again, not my charts (source is provided), but Porthole Public Information Provider is literally doing the heavy lifting (again)…

Considering you wear a lot of Aragon, I would be surprised if any of your watches were sub-45mm. Here is the thing - you have your range, and your preference, and that’s fine. I suppose at 50mm you could ask if the watch was too small (too big? meh - I think you are literally in land mine territory, and divers were initially massive if you consider Panerai), but it isn’t. You don’t have to wear sub-36mm either, but know that it’s perfectly acceptable for a gentlemen to wear 27mm+ (as some military watches from the ‘30s were 27mm).

You know I'm going to bust your chops. Should be used to it by now 😁. Most of my watches are 40-43mm. At the moment I only have the 2 Biggins.

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The second one is not actually that big in proportion to me. I get where you are coming from about the history and traditions. In my case as a black man in the United States, those are not a time I would want to relive. I appreciate the history as knowledge to acquire. That doesn't mean I have cosplay it with smaller watches. Granted I'm still new to collecting. Only been at it for a little over a year, but this is what I like and what fits me and my lifestyle.

Please don't take my comments as angery or malicious. I am learning from your seasoned point of view. In the same way I hope you see mine, not as wrong just different.

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So… the post is to address the common question of “is this too small for me” by just sharing a graphic I thought was interesting, and answering the question in a different way than what is usually presented on here (which is me saying “no” all the time). I’ve referenced the source, and I have even suggested that I also have issues with it, but the overall picture is fine when considering what the original article was trying to achieve. If you have issues with the data, or the analysis, I would suggest you take it up with the analyst. For what it is, and for what is essentially a sidebar to the normal fare, it is sufficient to illustrate the point: no, your watch is not too small.

The choice of watch sizes today was never a critique, and it is far greater now than it ever was; if anything, it maybe promotes more people to ask the question whether or not a watch is potentially too small before, or after, they purchase it. Watch sizes were a little more prescriptive the further back you go, and trends show a progressive enlarging of case sizes, and a broadening in the choice of sizes available.

Naturally, pocket watches are/were a different story altogether, coming in a large range of sizes. They also began to fall out of favour as the century progressed as the popularity of the wristwatch grew. I have not yet heard anyone ask if their pocket watch is too small, so I was not trying to address this question. I can imagine it would depend on the size of the pocket? (clearly I’m being sarcastic… I’m not overly concerned with pocket watches, it’s an area I have never dabbled in, and far more prickly…)

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I personally think some real good finds are odd name brands in nos codition..it takes time finding the right ones and research but in essence tour getting a brand new watch that was made well..

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I stopped at my regular multi brand ad yesterday afternoon to pick up a special order strap as well as inquire about the just announced Zenith Triple Calendar Chrono re issue watch. The young shop owner surprised me when he expressed disappointment with the 38mm case size which is true to the original but not popular with quite a few of his super serious enthusiast customers who shop for Journe, Moser along with the other popular suspects. G has a slender wrist but is tall and favours slightly larger watches which he carries off well. He assures me that when the watch is available, I will be contacted he knows that I will buy watches that I want to own as long as I can comfortably wear them, I really do not pay any attention to noise from the mob. The dollars that I paid for a few of my 48mm watches were hard earned, I have every intention of keeping them in my regular rotation.

My sis in law surprised the hell when she arrived at my wife’s quiet birthday celebration wearing a diamond bezel rose gold Patek Philippe watch, she and her husband are notoriously careful with their finances not known to flex anything despite their affluence. My brother in law wore the same Brioni suit to attend his younger son’s wedding a few summers ago that he wore when he attended his sis’s marriage to me in 1986, that is a long time to keep a garment. I was mostly surprised by the 36mm case size of a dress watch from a conservative brand that makes a decent living marketing continuity, the famous ad that nobody owns a Patek that he or she is a caretaker until the next owner becomes a new caretaker comes immediately to mind. Nobody is going to challenge the fact that ladies have been shopping for watches that very recently were sold to guys, it was just before the global pandemic disrupted so many routines when I was browsing in a Rolex boutique lingered a moment over a big selection of 36mm Datejusts when the counter manager gently suggested the 36mm watches sold mostly to her lady clients. I said that they used to be men’s watches, she answered that we were not living in the past.

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It comes down to Individual wrist size and Personal preference. I sometimes like a small watch and sometimes a big one. The smaller get more wrist time tho because they are more comfortable.

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Well… this was fun. If this was of use, you’re welcome, but know that you are fine (historically) with any size from 27mm. Size and fit aside, your watch is fine.