In Search of a GMT

So I'm going think out loud for a bit, and maybe see if it elicits any feedback. I'm in search of a GMT, specifically a travelers' GMT with a rotating 24 hour bezel. I already have a few GMTs, but none with both of features: a Lorier Hyperion (the OG with the callers GMT Soprod movement), and a couple of Grand Seikos (which I bought because I like them, not because they're GMTs). Owning these I've learned that the ideal GMT has both features. I can set the GMT hand to UTC and leave it there. When "calling," I can flip the bezel to the time I want to track, when traveling I can flip the hour hand to local time, no faffing about with setting the time or the GMT hand, no hacking the movement. When the Longines Zulu Time was release a couple of years ago, I was really taken with it. I really liked the looks of it, and it checked the necessary boxes. But the original 42mm was way too big, and wore like a slab. Then they came out with the 39mm version, and it seemed just about ideal. It would even be my first Swiss luxury watch. Somehow I've managed to avoid Swiss, not intentionally (except for a couple of "affordable" Hamiltons, and Christopher Ward, if that counts; to me it kinda doesn't). So I started to plot and plan and save my pennies to buy it some time this year. But now with Miyota GMT movement, there are a bunch of "affordable" travelers' GMTs, and prompted in part by the #microtournament, I searched out microbrand GMTs to have a look. The either didn't have a rotating bezel, or they didn't appeal aesthetically; with the rotating bezel, they tend to be made to look like dive watches (the Zulu Time is going for a pilots watch aesthetic). I have nothing against dive watches, but they're mostly not my thing. Then I came across the Traska Venturer GMT. I like the looks of it, and it's starting to grow on me. I like the looks of it, and a few features even top the Longines; it's thinner, it has on the fly microadjustment in the clasp, and they do some kind of surface hardening that according to a number of reports really does make it tougher against scratches, and the internal bezel is cool and less diver-like. And not least, it's like a quarter of the price of the Longines. Over the last few days, I'm starting to get the "must have" compulsion that drives my purchases. As luck would have it, they're opening a pre-order window in April, which means I could have it on wrist in a few months. And it appears Traska has made it to the semifinals in the tournament. The Longines has been on my mind for a long time. Is it a "grail" (how that word is overused)? Will I feel like I'm missing out if I get something else? Is the Traska "settling?" Or would it meet my needs, scratch the itch, and save me a couple thousand bucks? Decisions, decisions. I have a couple weeks to see if the compulsion persists before I have to decide. I know, tl;dr, but sometimes it helps to think out loud.
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Totally different watches in terms of tiers - and from reading your post, I think striving for the Longines is the way to probably go. You get a Swiss brand, a big name at that, and a very good Swiss movement. You get the most return for your financial outlay IMO.

I own a Traska and have nothing but good to say. As a brand it has great in fit/finish, hardening tech, and solid Miyota movements. But, it's far behind a Longines in most areas and cache. But great prices for what you get in their watches.

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Have a look at a Christopher Ward c63 sealander GMT. I have one and absolutely love it. I'm up to 5 CWs now. Be careful, they are addicting.

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https://www.lorierwatches.com/products/hyperion-sii

The new Hyperion has the Travelers Miyota. I have the older Caller Soprod.

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I've owned the Longines (in 42mm) for about a year and a half and it is my most worn watch. Despite a couple of pet peeves, it is just phenomenal. I have 2 nice leather straps, 3 or 4 Natos and the bracelet, and I switch between all of these on a regular basis. It is both classy and sporty, has great functionality and is really good looking. The hands and numerals have high polish that reflect light beautifully.

Funny enough, I am looking at the Traska as well. I'd be into the light blue dial myself.

An interest in the Islander Port Jefferson GMT ?

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I’ve had my eye on the Longines Spirit Zulu GMT 39mm since it was released. It’s well engineered and based on reviews very dependable. Its extremely easy on the eyes and wears very comfortably especially on the strap or a Nato. I personally feel that for the price you get a lot of value. I’ve had very positive experiences with Swiss made watches and Longines has really been on roll lately. I think it would be a good choice.

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Both are great GMTs....in their respective and completely separate price points. It basically boils down to wether you want to spend in one price segment versus the other, and which style you particularly like more.

Aside from that both GMTs will basically function the same and Garner similar respect and appreciation from fellow watch enthusiasts. So totally up to you, I own the Traska and love it, but the Zulu Time GMT is another piece I would consider if I didn't already own two Grand Seiko GMTs in the $5-6K range already

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I'm actually getting both 😂

Traska first and then a Zulu Time shortly after.

I actually had a 42mm Zulu Time for about 10 months. Great watch but the 39mm wore better on my wrist especially on a bracelet.

Sold the 42mm to free up space and cash for a Traska Venturer and a 39mm Zulu time in anthracite and Green 💚

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18 months ago I looked at the blue 42mm, just for sizing (cause I wanted the green bezel one), and it was perfect. Then the 39mm came out. A few weeks ago I went to my AD who had both the 39mm and the 42mm green bezel one. I tried them both and the dial of the 39mm seemed so small to me. It was weird. I bought the 42 which looks perfect on the wrist. Not a single regret.

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Jimmer

18 months ago I looked at the blue 42mm, just for sizing (cause I wanted the green bezel one), and it was perfect. Then the 39mm came out. A few weeks ago I went to my AD who had both the 39mm and the 42mm green bezel one. I tried them both and the dial of the 39mm seemed so small to me. It was weird. I bought the 42 which looks perfect on the wrist. Not a single regret.

A great examples of how numbers only tell half the picture and how the watch actually wears on the wrist is needed to complete that picture

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Try the Zulu on your wrist before you buy, people (me) don’t like the long lugs.

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If you want the Longines, don't settle. I personally think that the Traska is a fantastic looking watch, and I also think that at 25% of the price of the Longines, it's a tremendous value.

But we're not talking value, we're talking a watch that you've wanted for years. Unless you find something that you want *more* than that, you're not going to be satisfied with something *instead* of that.

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So I own a Traska Venturer GMT (in steel blue) and I will sing it's praises. The hardness coating is legit. The build quality of these watches are impressive for the price. The bracelet is super comfy. If you're looking for a GADA GMT it's hard to beat the Traska and the black dial probably moreso GADA than even my blue dialed Traska. The knock on Traska is that the designs are a little derivative. Attractive but not standout in any particular manner. But you cannot fault the quality, especially once you factor the price. Again build quality is easily something you would pay double for and the hardness coating means you can wear this watch and it will likely look new for a long time. I'm likely getting a Traska Commuter (black dial) because it's seems like an ideal affordable 3 Hander GADA watch and after my experience with the Venturer, I have faith in what Traska is doing.

All that said looks wise I am a fan of the Longines Spirit series, I have considered saving up for one as well (although I internally debate whether I would do the Zulu time or just the standard three hander). It's great looking watch. If you see it as a grail type watch, sometimes the heart wants what the heart wants.

But it seems you want something nice that is also a great tool, that you can use daily. It's hard to fault the Traska. It's a great value.

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neloms

Try the Zulu on your wrist before you buy, people (me) don’t like the long lugs.

This is a key recommendation - I say this about Nomos too!

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Jimmer

18 months ago I looked at the blue 42mm, just for sizing (cause I wanted the green bezel one), and it was perfect. Then the 39mm came out. A few weeks ago I went to my AD who had both the 39mm and the 42mm green bezel one. I tried them both and the dial of the 39mm seemed so small to me. It was weird. I bought the 42 which looks perfect on the wrist. Not a single regret.

Based on how your Explorer 2 fits you, I think you absolutely have the wrist for a 42mm Zulu time 😃

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biglove

Sweet, fancy Moses.

Why not go big and ask VC vs Seiko?

I feel like this post has caused my IQ to drop just by reading it.

Sweet Jesus, Joseph, and Mary, you say you read all that, and that's what you have to say? Seriously? You've never considered two things at two price points, and wondered which was the better choice? Or, price aside, which thing would make you happier? And yes, price is a consideration, but it's not about buying the fanciest thing, or the cheapest thing, but the right thing, all things considered. I'll refrain from commenting on your IQ, but I will say that I could feel my neurons dying reading your three sentences and responding against my better judgment. Mea culpa, miserere mei.

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This tempted me earlier this week, but I got over it pretty quickly. That meteorite dial is pretty cool, and the price is right, but it didn't have that spark of something. Maybe it's too diver-ish. We'll see if the Traska thing is a flash in the pan, or has some staying power.

https://zeloswatches.com/products/mako-300m-gmt-meteorite?

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@emthiyaze 🤔🤔🤔

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I think the Zulu is the way to go 💯

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I vote for the Traska ;-)

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#traska

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Check out maen hudson 38 gmt

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I have the same dilemma but what turned me off from the zulu is the 21mm lug width, i have so many 20mm leather straps that i would love to use on it :'(

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Longines needs to bring over the new Hydroconquest GMT micro adjustable clasp before I'd consider it.

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Question to @CAviles20, @Trapok, anybody else who owns the Traska: one reviewer says that the inner rotating bezel clicks, but nobody else mentions it. Is that in fact true? Does the bezel stay in place once you set it? Thanks!

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wilfried

Question to @CAviles20, @Trapok, anybody else who owns the Traska: one reviewer says that the inner rotating bezel clicks, but nobody else mentions it. Is that in fact true? Does the bezel stay in place once you set it? Thanks!

Not Really a click but not freely turning either. The inner bezel crown won't turn in error with normal wrist wear.

And on the latest Traska version, that crown is also screw down.

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wilfried

Question to @CAviles20, @Trapok, anybody else who owns the Traska: one reviewer says that the inner rotating bezel clicks, but nobody else mentions it. Is that in fact true? Does the bezel stay in place once you set it? Thanks!

I wouldn't call it a "click" I would describe it as a mechanical detent. It's pretty subtle but also clearly intentional. So as you rotate the bezel you'll feel spaced areas of resistance that help you align the internal bezel in its position...and Im sure it's also designed to help keep the bezel from freely rotating requiring a little extra force to turn the crown to move the bezel from one detent to the next. I mean it's easy enough to turn the crown but also and there is obviously friction to overcome but there are also these friction based detents.

That said based on Traska's recent email, one of the upgrades on the upcoming Venturers that you would be pre-oredering is that the crown that rotates the internal bezel will now be a screw down crown. Which means of course no more accidental turns of the bezel crown. You'll have to unscrew the crown to be able to rotate the bezel. Now accidental rotation hasn't been an issue on mine, I think you get enough resistance on the current crown design, but I also think it's a welcome upgrade and added security.

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wilfried

Question to @CAviles20, @Trapok, anybody else who owns the Traska: one reviewer says that the inner rotating bezel clicks, but nobody else mentions it. Is that in fact true? Does the bezel stay in place once you set it? Thanks!

It doesn't click, but the only criticism that i have whith it is that it's not firm enough, a bit sensitive :-(

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I have a Traska that was actually a recent purchase. It’s not a GMT, but it’s a great quality watch and looks and feels great on the wrist. I also have the Longines Spirit Zulu Time with the green bezel and anthracite dial and it is spectacular. Go for the Longines, in my opinion. 👍🏻

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Tbh i'd go with the Traska, even though i think the Longines also looks fantastic. But i'd never buy a Longines at that price.

~2600€ is the cheapest Logines on Chrono24 in the EU ...

To me Logines is the same as every other Swatch Group Brand, that sells watches with ETA Movements. Hamilton/Mido/Tissot ...

The Traska even has more features, the scratch resistance alone would do it for me already. Traska all the way!

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DynamiteKid19

Longines needs to bring over the new Hydroconquest GMT micro adjustable clasp before I'd consider it.

Seriously. Longines should be putting that on all of their bracelets