Modern Vintage Dress Watches...we should talk about these more
There is a side of me that I don't routinely post about, and that is the part of me that likes dress watches. I don't wear them often, but I really do appreciate a nice dress watch. I like their simplicity, timelessness and thiness.
That said, it's hard for me to classify what a vintage-style dress watch is. After all, most of them are based on old designs. Anyways, I don't intend to start a debate here on what is a dress watch, but for the intents of this post this is my own definition:
Simple as possible, less complicated is better, time-only is best.
Under 40mm around and under 12mm thick.
More polish, less brushing, no brushing is best.
Again, these are my parameters. If yours are different, then enjoy what you like!
Now, dress watches also can be quite expensive. I feel like when most people think about a dress watch they think of old American and Swiss brands like Bulova, Hamilton, Omega, JLC, etc. But again, for the purposes of this post I'm going to stick to less expensive options. You know, something anyone can enjoy and is relatively accessible.
One of the most obvious choices here is the Orient Bambino. I feel like this is almost the equivalent of an SKX in the dress watch category. If you were looking for your first mechanical dress watch, there's a good chance you started with a Bambino. I myself did for sure.
It's too bad I didn't wait for the 38mm version which also looks quite nice IMO. I'm really digging the limited edition pastel colors they just released too.
But what comes next? Honestly, I feel there's not a ton of choice at sub-$1k price points. Every other watch out there is a diver or chronograph. Even field watches get more attention. There are some cool options out there though. Amongst them, one of the older brands, Timex. Yes their Marlin is quite popular, but the 34mm version is true to the dress watch aesthetic and comes in two or three good vintage styles.
If you're not ready to wear 34mm then you haven't lived! I have a vintage Tissot Seastar in that size which used to belong to my father. It's not strictly a dress watch by my definition but I've definitely worn it to a wedding. I've been quite tempted by the manual wind Marlin though because it really is affordable by most watch nerd standards.
Then there are the microbrands. Bless their hearts. They really go for it with designs. And again sticking to things like acrylic crystals, 36mm and below and Breguet style applied numerals. One that doesn't get much fanfare but I think makes cool stuff is Kuoe. They're better known for their small seconds designs, but I think the cushion case Royal Smith is where it's at. And another 34mm at that.
But the real reason the Royal Smith caught my attention is because I had already been eyeing the Baltic MR01. Oh my never ending flip flopping with Baltic has to come to an end. I really do love their designs, there is just the mind block with pricing. Other brands like Lorier and Timex always keep me at bay from Baltic. But the more time passes the more I feel like giving in to the MR01. Especially after seeing the gold version!
The last special mention I'll make is to my Vario Versa. I'm not quite sure what to call this one. I guess it's more dress than not, but I mean look at it on a brown ostrich strap:
The Versa is definitely one of those chameleon watches IMO. Different strap, different watch. The only thing it can't really do is go swimming, but hey, we're talking about dress watches here after all.
Now all said and done, I don't think I would trade most of my prized divers for any of my dress watches. But if I had to bring things down to say 6 watches (maybe one day) I would definitely have a dress watch in there, and it would definitely be a Grand Seiko. The SBGW301 to be precise. I mean it's perfect: manual, 37mm, stunning finishing, simple, thin. Heck, I might just get one to replace the rest anyways.
That about exhausts all I can say about dress watches for now. I'll keep admiring this category however. I know some folks out there almost exclusively focus on these and all but ignore sports watches. I might just stalk some of your galleries for that matter!
Well rounded nerd, into music, guitar pedals, all things DIY, and watches!
I think the Timex Marlin is the best, as it's a re-issue of the actual Timex Marlin.
I think the Timex Marlin is the best, as it's a re-issue of the actual Timex Marlin.
Yeah the art deco style is on point too.
I been digging koue watches as well
The baltic and Tissot stand out for me because the baltic has great bracelet and the Tissot because it’s squared very nice watches
I have a soft spot for classic looking dress watches as well. What you could also consider, in lieu of buying the modern interpretation, is buying the original (well, sort of more original : they’re all based on something :). Bought this for half the price of a new Baltic MR01, and it has all the properties I value in a classic dress watch: small, unobtrusive, thin, three hands, no date:
It IS ofc sixty years old, and has no box or papers included. And it may require servicing/costs the MR01 would not incur. But so far it runs very smooth - and pretty darn accurate as well. So, it is a bit of a gamble, but one I am very glad I made.
Having said that, the Vario, Baltic, Timex and Orient are fine choices as well!
I love most of the watches you have highlighted here! I think some of the Longines heritage model also worth considering such as the Silver Arrow.
I feel you. I love a great dress watch and you have listed quite a few beauties here. For your consideration, (I know its brushed but please bare with me.) I would like to submit the Lorier Astra... I mean just look at that. The lines, the dial, the hands... They all just blend into a beautiful symmetry of style and elegance. I definitely want to add one to my collection!
I’m trying to buy a pre-owned Louis Erard, I think the beauty of a dress watch being a less popular option means there are good watches to be had on the pre-owned market
A wristwatch nowadays is a superfluous accessory more for looks than real utility… is it only natural the classic style is popular 😅
Really dig Kuoe, have my eye on it quite some time.
There's several more dressy options in the sub $1000 price range actually:
None are 34mm case diameter though. But they're thin enough for dress watch standards.
Honorary mention (indices instead of numerals):
From top to bottom
Hamilton Viewmatic Jazzmaster (got mine for $630 canadian dollars)
Citizen Stiletto (looks similar to my Cellini 6623)
Seiko Cocktail (looks similar to my VC fifty six)
Orient FUNEL003B0 ($79 bux)
Hamilton Murph 38 (my favourite, I think it was below $1000)
I felt in love with the Kuoe Royal too! My "dress" watch currently is an Orient, open heart blue.
Does this count? 😂
I’ve got a sub $700 Hamilton Boulton that is quite nice.
Nice answer thank you ! To be fair I don't know what I was thinking but yeah to me they were doing their own movements but I was surely delusional and when I learnt that it was a Seiko movement all the hype that I had fell down... Maybe it's not for me 🤷🏻♂️
In-house movements are another debate all together. Some brands just take a 3rd party movement, modify it and then call it "in-house". Other's actually make theirs specifically for their watches and to their own standards, that's more so what I consider in-house. At this price point you will not find in-house movements regardless.
And hey, if it's not for you then go explore Timex and Casio. They have some cool vintage designs for under $200 even!
In-house movements are another debate all together. Some brands just take a 3rd party movement, modify it and then call it "in-house". Other's actually make theirs specifically for their watches and to their own standards, that's more so what I consider in-house. At this price point you will not find in-house movements regardless.
And hey, if it's not for you then go explore Timex and Casio. They have some cool vintage designs for under $200 even!
Yeah you're right! And don't worry, I'll save up and go through Tudor, they have nice pieces
The Baltic and that Vario are really hitting the mark for me. 👍🏾
so glad we talk about this more, dresswatch is one of my favourite genre of watch. my first dresswatch is of course a bambino v3 which i loved very much.
unfortunately after a few years i gotta let it go because i drawn more to the square shaped dresswatch which bring me to this rotary cambridge.
I’m going to pick up the cream dial but your picture has the black dial speaking to me 👍
The Baltic and that Vario are really hitting the mark for me. 👍🏾
Vario will be at the DC show in March if you don’t know already
I’m going to pick up the cream dial but your picture has the black dial speaking to me 👍
Thx for the kimd words. I can assure you it is much more beautiful in person than in their pict.
I Like this one :)
Screw it. I love all of them XD
I know that I’m spamming the WC community lately with my Tudor, but for me this is a quintessential dress watch for everyday use. It’s easy to read, polite and still looks great with a polo t-shirt at a pool bar 😎
I Like this one :)
Screw it. I love all of them XD
They make great stuff all around!
The pool of options is endless. The one thing I noticed is that the lower priced (Pressage, Orient, etc…) seem to be more acceptable and appreciated than the higher end stuff, because the jump for dress watches climbs very fast. More so than Divers I’d say
The pool of options is endless. The one thing I noticed is that the lower priced (Pressage, Orient, etc…) seem to be more acceptable and appreciated than the higher end stuff, because the jump for dress watches climbs very fast. More so than Divers I’d say
I think brands like Longines and Tissot offer some nice dress pieces in the mid section ($1-5k) but their real competition is the vintage market. Think of all the beautiful vintage watches out there you can get for that range.
I myself actually just bought a Seiko dress watch from the 70's and it is gorgeous! That will be a separate post though.
Dive watches definitely are the most prevalent, nothing you can't find in any price range really.
I love my Bambino!
My C7 Citizen is also worth mentioning.
If I ever wore a suit, I'd be tempted by the Titoni Line 1919:
https://www.fratellowatches.com/titoni-timeless-elegance-from-the-line-1919-collection/
If I ever wore a suit, I'd be tempted by the Titoni Line 1919:
https://www.fratellowatches.com/titoni-timeless-elegance-from-the-line-1919-collection/
Cool, never heard of these!
I know that I’m spamming the WC community lately with my Tudor, but for me this is a quintessential dress watch for everyday use. It’s easy to read, polite and still looks great with a polo t-shirt at a pool bar 😎
Uhh you’re gonna make me get a second Tudor I just got a BB Pro this is beautiful