Modern Vintage Chronographs... trying something new
I decided to take a small break from divers and started messing with some vintage inspired chronos in the last few weeks. I'm not much for chronos, despite the fact I owned three, I don't wear them often. It was a new strap on my Moonswatch that got me to thinking I should give them another try.
The thing with me and chronos is that I really am not sure what I like. Maybe it's because I don't wear them as often. What I mean by that is that I don't know if I like the classic sport ones, dressy, tricompax, bicompax, etc. I've tried a few, the title pic is my current spread. I am decided on one thing though: I definitely don't want to keep them all. So going through these, here are some micro reviews of each and reasons why I'm thinking to let them go or not. Grab a drink for this one, we have a lot of things to cover.
First up is the first one I bought, the Seagull/Redstar 1963. It is a very simple one with applied numerals and markers. Absolutely zero lume and the main attraction which is the display case back. I got the acrylic crystal variant which I think looks the best. It's just so clear with no reflection and slight distortion. Best crystal IMO for vintage styled watches.
Now, the issue I have with the 1963 is that despite its inherent beauty it has a very strong military aesthetic. I mean it is a military watch in a sense, but I think I would prefer if the dial said Seagull instead of having the red star. It's a small aesthetic preference sure, but it's similar to most Vostok watches where they can't be anything but one thing, it's not versatile. And before people mention the non-hacking "disposable" movement, let me say that doesn't bother me at all. Swapping a movement if needed, especially a mass produced one, is not a big deal. A $200 watch is not meant to last for generations, this should be obvious.
Next up is a Geckota racing chronograph. This one I was very excited about when I bought it. The finishing is quite nice, lots of small details went into it. The small color accents here and there even count. The fact is has a square shape with square subdials is no small detail that isn't present on every chrono. But by far the best detail is that its bicompax quartz movement has a running seconds on the right instead of the mostly useless 24hr subdial found on most Seiko mechaquartz movements. And still managing to have a sweeping chrono seconds hand!
This Geckota was once my perfect racing chronograph. However the more I wore it the more I started to feel it was a bit too bulky for me. Its square 42mm case has alot of precence, and the 14.5mm thickness makes it a hefty thing to wear despite it being a quartz watch. A restrained lug-to-lug of 47mm helps, but it is still like wearing a brick slab for me. Small chronographs just wear like such a dream at 38mm, I don't know I can deal with these dimensions.
I own a Vaer A7 watch that I bought a few months ago and I love, so when I saw their R1 racing chronograph I thought I should give it a try. An ongoing sale closed the deal and so I pulled the trigger. I got the black dial variant which reminded me of the Tissot Racing chronograph. But the Tissot, at 42mm and being mechanical, is entirely too big and quite a bit more expensive. The R1 is also a cushion case design with a running seconds subdial and just the right amount of 70s inspired colors. The 38mm variant is what I wish the Geckota was sized at and wears much better IMO for my wrist.
This watch is probably the closest to achieving all the things I want. It's also the most water resistant at 100m (all Vaer watches are intentionally designed so you can swim with them). Add the practicality of quartz and cool sweeping chrono hand, there's not much I can complain about here.
Last but not least is my latest addition, the Dan Henry 1964 panda racing chronograph. This one I am really struggling with. The watch itself is beautiful, the beads of rice bracelet and leather strap are both perfectly matched. The panda style is classic and the domed mineral crystal just makes it look amazing at all angles. Also a mechaquartz sweeping chrono hand with running seconds and no date. It is the most classic and quintessential of all the chronos on this list I believe.
So what's my problem with the DH 1964? I don't know! It's just one of those watches that when I put it on I love it but don't know when I would really wear it. Most of my watches are more casual or sporty. This is technically a sports watch still, but looking at the finishing on it, it's hard to argue it's not a dress watch. And maybe that's the thing I can't get over: looking at it and thinking "what are you?!" The vintage Heuer chronos this is supposed to mimic are very similar, but the DH has a blue chrono hand and polished steel subdial hands. I think if the subdial hands were white and the chrono hand black with white tip I would be much more on board. I know I'm impossible, but that's the point of being a watch nerd, no?!
At the end of the day I think I will only keep one of these four. I'm thinking of making room for a Hamilton khaki instead which is much more my usual style.
What do you Crunchers think? You ever drive yourself nuts with options like this? Maybe you just know what you like, lucky you!
Well rounded nerd, into music, guitar pedals, all things DIY, and watches!
Well done sir. I have the DH1964 and love it for the aesthetic Panda look. It does veer into the dressier realm especially on the beads of rice but interestingly enough, it’s the watch I get the most compliments on. People think I’m rich wearing that. That’s definitely not what I was going for but sure, I’ll take it. Then again, you touched upon the Hamilton Khaki Field Automatic, the favorite in my collection. I have that exact one in your picture. It is the watch that best reflects who I am. So yeah, sell all of them if you must to get the Hammy 🤣😂
Well done sir. I have the DH1964 and love it for the aesthetic Panda look. It does veer into the dressier realm especially on the beads of rice but interestingly enough, it’s the watch I get the most compliments on. People think I’m rich wearing that. That’s definitely not what I was going for but sure, I’ll take it. Then again, you touched upon the Hamilton Khaki Field Automatic, the favorite in my collection. I have that exact one in your picture. It is the watch that best reflects who I am. So yeah, sell all of them if you must to get the Hammy 🤣😂
My wife thinks the 1964 is the nicest of them all, so it does have that effect for sure. Maybe I mod it?! That would be wild. And yes, the Khaki currently has a hold on me for some reason...
My wife thinks the 1964 is the nicest of them all, so it does have that effect for sure. Maybe I mod it?! That would be wild. And yes, the Khaki currently has a hold on me for some reason...
It’s like a vintage looking car with the internals of a brand new car. Think about all the recent Pony cars and their design eschewing back to heritage design, aerodynamics and gas mileage be damned. Mustang, Challengers, Hellcats, and all their variants. Just evokes passion. The Khaki is the same way, harkening back to it’s military inspired roots. An elegant weapon for a more civilized age…
I like the look! I’m not sure my Hamilton chronograph is exactly vintage or just vintage style but I’m in for the style.
I have the Vaer and really love the aesthetics of that watch! At first, I wanted the cream dial but then realized the black has much better legibility. And I love meca quartz!
However, I've come to realize that I really prefer the utility of a digital display for chronos. Why? Because I actually use them to time stuff. Usually my drawing sessions. And you know what? Many of the beautiful dial designs make it hard to accurately see the duration. The subdials are often missing min markers, or skip some, or even not have them at all. It's more pleasing to the eye, but sacrificing functionality.
So no more analog chronos for me. I'm sticking to my g shock because when you really try to time stuff, it works!
Nice group; however, of the set, I'd say I'm partial to the Vaer. I have several meca-quartz chronographs and agree with @ckim4watches as to practicality of useage -- the best looking are among the hardest to read timings precisely.
Love vintage inspired Chronos…couldn’t be happier with my Hamilton Intra Matic Mechanical I just received…and have my eyes on a number of others of all different eras…50s…60s…70s…I say continue to explore like you have divers
Great choices, man! I like the Vaer because of its unique design. And I know they have a 37mm version which will fit my smaller wrist.
Added the Bethpage Ameriquartz to the growing chrono collection and really dig the classic look without spending big cash. I'm going to put a classic style bracelet on to really up my game 😎
Great choices, man! I like the Vaer because of its unique design. And I know they have a 37mm version which will fit my smaller wrist.
So far pretty pleased with the two Vaer's I own. I got a coworker onto them too. If you do go with one let me know how it goes!
Added the Bethpage Ameriquartz to the growing chrono collection and really dig the classic look without spending big cash. I'm going to put a classic style bracelet on to really up my game 😎
I've seen those Marathon bracelets but not sure where you could get those in other places. Good luck finding them. I think they would look pretty cool and unique.
Love vintage inspired Chronos…couldn’t be happier with my Hamilton Intra Matic Mechanical I just received…and have my eyes on a number of others of all different eras…50s…60s…70s…I say continue to explore like you have divers
Just need to find the room too!
So far pretty pleased with the two Vaer's I own. I got a coworker onto them too. If you do go with one let me know how it goes!
Will do, mate. 👍🏼
It is a dangerous journey, but you amassed a nice collection of them. Keep trying different ones on. Baltic does a really nice job with that look, as does Nivada Grenchen, and to some extent Yema. The new Maen one from Watchfinder also looks great.
It is a dangerous journey, but you amassed a nice collection of them. Keep trying different ones on. Baltic does a really nice job with that look, as does Nivada Grenchen, and to some extent Yema. The new Maen one from Watchfinder also looks great.
I like the Nivada and I considered the Yema Rallygraph too actually but couldn't deal with no running seconds.
Baltic I'm always on the fence with. Really like their stuff but I always hold back because of the pricing. I gravitate more towards Lorier who I feel have a similar style.
I like the Nivada and I considered the Yema Rallygraph too actually but couldn't deal with no running seconds.
Baltic I'm always on the fence with. Really like their stuff but I always hold back because of the pricing. I gravitate more towards Lorier who I feel have a similar style.
Yeah, not sure I forgot about Lorier in this mix! With Baltic, they did what most of us hoped, went up market a bit for a stronger movement, but it does them out of range with the rest of the line up. However, I can tell you after having a Bi-Compax for a year (which I believe the line is around $600), wears excellently and bridges that retro vibe nicely, as does Furlan Marri.
Photo Credit WatchGecko
Yeah, not sure I forgot about Lorier in this mix! With Baltic, they did what most of us hoped, went up market a bit for a stronger movement, but it does them out of range with the rest of the line up. However, I can tell you after having a Bi-Compax for a year (which I believe the line is around $600), wears excellently and bridges that retro vibe nicely, as does Furlan Marri.
Photo Credit WatchGecko
I dunno, I still think Baltic is trying to push upmarket moreso with marketing, less so with value. Although, I guess you could argue the value is in their designs. I mean look at the MR01, great design, but the watch itself is made of bare minimum grade components. Unique yes, I'll give them that.
I don't dislike Baltic, like I said, just on the fence. With brands like DH, Yema, Lorier and Serica I don't see myself leaning to Baltic any time soon though. Serica for example, is about to release a Swiss made chronometer certified version of their field watch. If they can overcome some of their bad wrap with customer service, that is what I would call moving up market.
Nice post! Great to have some reviews out :)
I’m into racing chonograph, a tip check out @ChronoGuy - Got a lot of beautiful rare racing chronos I’ve never heard or seen before.
For me - I got Nezumi Voiture, clean 70’s vintage chrono I actually got on Friday. Very pleased with everything, 40mm watch.
Nice post! Great to have some reviews out :)
I’m into racing chonograph, a tip check out @ChronoGuy - Got a lot of beautiful rare racing chronos I’ve never heard or seen before.
For me - I got Nezumi Voiture, clean 70’s vintage chrono I actually got on Friday. Very pleased with everything, 40mm watch.
Oh I'm well aware of @ChronoGuy collection, it is something to behold.
My coworker has that Nezumi, it is pretty cool. If you like those you would probably also like the Geckota Forzo line:
FORZO G2 EnduraTimer Chronograph Watch - Panda Dial | WatchGecko
Oh I'm well aware of @ChronoGuy collection, it is something to behold.
My coworker has that Nezumi, it is pretty cool. If you like those you would probably also like the Geckota Forzo line:
FORZO G2 EnduraTimer Chronograph Watch - Panda Dial | WatchGecko
Yes - the Forzo is a really cool watch at an affordable price.
I went with the blue bi-compax one...
Oh I'm well aware of @ChronoGuy collection, it is something to behold.
My coworker has that Nezumi, it is pretty cool. If you like those you would probably also like the Geckota Forzo line:
FORZO G2 EnduraTimer Chronograph Watch - Panda Dial | WatchGecko
Wonderful tips as Well :D Thanks a lot. Have a Great sunday :D
Yes - the Forzo is a really cool watch at an affordable price.
I went with the blue bi-compax one...
That’s something with beautiful dial!
After a discussion I had with Erik @ErikDenStore I was thinking about doing a post on racing chronographs. Then I realized I had far too many to put in one post...
So maybe I will split it up between microbrands, vintage and modern or something like that.
Point being that I never have the issue as posed, because I cannot seem to limit the additions like you do so well.
So congrats to knowing what you like and staying focused on your collection.
After a discussion I had with Erik @ErikDenStore I was thinking about doing a post on racing chronographs. Then I realized I had far too many to put in one post...
So maybe I will split it up between microbrands, vintage and modern or something like that.
Point being that I never have the issue as posed, because I cannot seem to limit the additions like you do so well.
So congrats to knowing what you like and staying focused on your collection.
Incredible addiction 🫣 I hope your economic survive after all 🫶
Maybe take out 5 watches favourites in each category and make one each post in modern, vintage etc in the future? Would be awesome with your passion. But no pressure! Just when you’re up to it :D
Have a great evening :)
Just made the post about racing watches here...
https://www.watchcrunch.com/ChronoGuy/posts/racing-watches-put-a-little-zip-in-your-collection-part-1-microbrands-253712