Limited Edition Watches: Is Exclusivity an Illusion?

There are now more limited edition watches than ever. Many brands produce limited edition watches that are the same as regular catalog models but have different colorways, materials or minuscule details to justify a premium.

Owning two of them, I can't help but feel like I've simply been a victim of the fear-of-missing-out. The first one is a Beijing 2022 Olympics Aqua Terra. It's essentially the same watch except the caseback. ''Limited'' to 2022 units.

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At the time, I felt like it was pretty exclusive and in demand, I've since changed my views on that aspect. I bought it directly from Omega because the place and the year were significant and I wanted some memorabilia so all-in-all I don't regret this purchase.

The second one is a 2017 Black Phantom Aquaracer that was a completely unplanned purchase. I got it ''like-new'' from a famous second-hand watch store a few weeks ago for about 35% off the original price. I just thought it was a really cool looking watch and I've been wanting a ''real'' diver for a while. One of the factors leading to the purchase was its exclusvity. At the time I thought, ''What a steal!''

''Limited'' to 2500 units.

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Then I started thinking. Why would a (very cool) ''exclusive'' watch sell for 65% of its original price?

That made me think about my Aqua Terra and I realized that none of these watches are truly exclusive. (Don't get me wrong, I don't regret purchasing them one bit, but I know that the illusion of unattainability definitely was a factor or persuasion.)

How many people would buy a slight variation of a regular catalog watch at a premium anyway? They might not even sell out. And if that's the case, are these watches truly exclusive or limited?

There obviously are some very limited and exclusive pieces in the watchosphere, but I don't think mine qualify.

What do you think signifies genuine exclusivity versus a marketing ploy?

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Limited edition does not equal exclusive... If it's for sale to the general public, it isn't exclusive.

Limited edition simply means there is a limited production run of a particular version of something. It might be limited to 3, it might be limited to 30K, either way both are limited. If you make 200K of something, 30K is limited, before anyone gets snarky.

What has happened in the watch community is people have decided to equate limited edition with collectability or "value", but that is a self-inflicted silliness from the community itself.

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KristianG

Limited edition does not equal exclusive... If it's for sale to the general public, it isn't exclusive.

Limited edition simply means there is a limited production run of a particular version of something. It might be limited to 3, it might be limited to 30K, either way both are limited. If you make 200K of something, 30K is limited, before anyone gets snarky.

What has happened in the watch community is people have decided to equate limited edition with collectability or "value", but that is a self-inflicted silliness from the community itself.

That's a great point. As you said, the terminology is important. I'm realizing I've been tricked by marketing and some watch media.

I was also trying to point out how some normal unlimited models may not even out-sell some models marketed as limited. Unlimited models are also limited because their production will someday end as well. It seems kinda silly to brand something as limited when, in reality, that number advertized is most likely simply the number of expected sales.

Limited-edition models are clearly marketed as scarce and unattainable after an illusory selling-out period, when in fact, some, if not most, will forever remain available to anyone interested.

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I have the non limited edition of that AT. I don't see why I would have gone for the limited one above the standard in that case. But if the year was important to you personally then I do see the draw.

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Chronologics

I have the non limited edition of that AT. I don't see why I would have gone for the limited one above the standard in that case. But if the year was important to you personally then I do see the draw.

You could've had a bigger box and an additional nato strap for 2k more!

All jokes aside, I do feel silly when thinking about it, especially since I didn't watch a single event from the 2022 Olympics 😂

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Very well-reflected post. I believe it's up to each person to assess whether it's worth paying extra or not. In your context, it's about dealing with more expensive watches. The advantage of a limited edition should be something spectacular.

I have just bought the 10th-anniversary edition Nezumi Voiture with a black dial. But the exclusivity here was the Sellita 510 manual wind movement. And a watch not everyone has to begin with. It, for me, is a limited edition with something extra I’ve been looking for Very long ^^

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I do understand the lure...limited edition! Makes me somehow special as well!

Earlier this year I was really tempted by this one:

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Only 23 apparently being produced. I like Squale, I liked the look of this one AND i liked the 'specialness'. But then I realized you pay about 1k over normal price for that 'specialness'. Not tempted anymore :)

So yeah, obviously special/limited editions are a marketing ploy. Would only buy one if i happen to have a special connection with the chosen theme AND if it's not significantly more expensive than the regular model.

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ErikDenStore

Very well-reflected post. I believe it's up to each person to assess whether it's worth paying extra or not. In your context, it's about dealing with more expensive watches. The advantage of a limited edition should be something spectacular.

I have just bought the 10th-anniversary edition Nezumi Voiture with a black dial. But the exclusivity here was the Sellita 510 manual wind movement. And a watch not everyone has to begin with. It, for me, is a limited edition with something extra I’ve been looking for Very long ^^

Well said, I agree that going for a limited-edition is entirely a personal choice. I've just recently experienced a paradigm shift on what it means. Limited edition used to represent something in itself for me, but I don't think that perspective is valid for every watch.

I've never heard of that Nezumi watch (nor the brand for that matter). Assuming it's the chronograph on the wall of your profile, it's a stunning watch! Congrats on your acquisition and thanks for sharing!

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For me, I'd say the only "exclusive" I have is my Nodus x AWWC Sector Deep. Only 51 produced, and won't be made again.

Love AWWC and how they give back to various charities. And Nodus got my attention with this watch. Win for erry-body?

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Icarium

I do understand the lure...limited edition! Makes me somehow special as well!

Earlier this year I was really tempted by this one:

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Only 23 apparently being produced. I like Squale, I liked the look of this one AND i liked the 'specialness'. But then I realized you pay about 1k over normal price for that 'specialness'. Not tempted anymore :)

So yeah, obviously special/limited editions are a marketing ploy. Would only buy one if i happen to have a special connection with the chosen theme AND if it's not significantly more expensive than the regular model.

Very logical approach. I can whole-heartedly relate to how you feel about these releases.

That Squale is super cool and 23 watches produced seems super limited. Like it would actually be impossible to get if you miss out. If the stars align, I could definitely see myself fall for something like that 😂😂😂

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solidyetti

For me, I'd say the only "exclusive" I have is my Nodus x AWWC Sector Deep. Only 51 produced, and won't be made again.

Love AWWC and how they give back to various charities. And Nodus got my attention with this watch. Win for erry-body?

Definitely! I think we can objectively say that your watch is truly exclusive. Only 51 produced is not even in the same category of limited as my ''limited-edition'' watches.

I just spied on your wruw wall, it's a very cool watch! Congrats for owning 1 of the 51!

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sl9979741

Very logical approach. I can whole-heartedly relate to how you feel about these releases.

That Squale is super cool and 23 watches produced seems super limited. Like it would actually be impossible to get if you miss out. If the stars align, I could definitely see myself fall for something like that 😂😂😂

I almost did 😂 If it would have been around $1,500 instead of $2,200 I'd have fallen for it.

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Icarium

I almost did 😂 If it would have been around $1,500 instead of $2,200 I'd have fallen for it.

Does that mean that the price of the regular model is $1200? That's a crazy markup proportionally speaking

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sl9979741

Does that mean that the price of the regular model is $1200? That's a crazy markup proportionally speaking

Well...no 🙂 The dial pattern, the two subdials and the ETA2836 movement actually make it quite uncomparable to the rest of the Squale line-up. My comparison material was the 1545 (which i already owned in grey, and got new for about $600) and the 1521 which retails for about $900 - 1k. But as said, the Tributo did bring something quite unique to the table...damn, I should have gotten it!

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A LE in and itself does absolutely nothing for me. In a world where our watches garner zero attention from the unwashed masses a LE to me feels irrelevant outside of our bubble and unless it's aspirational a curious allocation of one's discretionary funds.

LE's to me feel like one is competing with others, which of course is the makers intended FOMO dynamic in the first place however "...the race is long my friend and in the end it's only with yourself."

Not once while admiring a watch has the owner's "It's a limited edition." comment made me think more highly of the piece though I'm not hating on the positive feeling one may get from that fact. Perhaps I just haven't tasted the right Kool-aid yet.

If the watch is already awesome then being a LE is just gilding the lilly, if it isn't awesome then being a LE isn't going to rescue it.

Though I travel extensively I've never encountered even another plain Jane Speedmaster Pro like mine in the wild let alone a LE 50th Anniversary Moonshine, a watch I would buy if I had the means regardless of whether there were 50 or 5000.

The few LE's that have blown my socks off did so on their own and the perceived exclusivity may have actually been a negative for me but as always...

Your Wrist Your Rules. Do You!

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Icarium

Well...no 🙂 The dial pattern, the two subdials and the ETA2836 movement actually make it quite uncomparable to the rest of the Squale line-up. My comparison material was the 1545 (which i already owned in grey, and got new for about $600) and the 1521 which retails for about $900 - 1k. But as said, the Tributo did bring something quite unique to the table...damn, I should have gotten it!

Mhh-hm. That guilloche dial and those hour markers are just 🤤

You know what to do next time 😂😂😂

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complication

For me, it depends on what the watch is. As I discussed in a recent thread, there's a limited edition I would absolutely love right now. And it's NOT because it's a limited edition, but because of what it represents. You literally can't buy the watch in question off-the-shelf with a no-date option. But every few years, there's been a run of 150 watches with no-date. So I want that sucker because of the no-date, NOT because there's only 150 of them.

Indeed, I think the fact there's only 150, every now and then, sucks. It's not a turn-on.

And I think this plays out in many limited edition releases. If you want 'x' you need the limited edition. And the appeal is never the number of watches, but whatever 'x' is.

Absolutely! Do you think the fact it's limited encourages you to choose it now? If you're on the fence between many watches. The one you don't get to choose next year is the limited edition one.

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norrecc

I have two limited edition watches: my Stowa Partitio blue dial (1/100) and my Grand Seiko SGBW303 (1/400 European exclusive). Tbh I bought both watches because of their dials colors first and foremost.

HOWEVER: I was in the AD and had my goal-watch, the 38mm Aqua Terra, in front of me and still went for the GS first, because there was an actual limit to the amount made, while it feels like there are millions of ATs flying around all over the place. They were both the same price, but I thought to myself: I can always get the AT, this green Mount Iwate beauty COULD be gone at some point. tbh I can't really imagine 400 pieces of one color variant of one GS model will sell out in Europe alone that quickly 😂

As for the Stowa: 100 pieces of a pretty unknown and unpopular model is probably not that limited, as I doubt they would sell heaps more if it wasn't limited anyway. But I bought it used for basically no premium and really wanted the dial.

So in the end, I probably got played by GS marketing (but am quite happy about it), the Stowa was just a coincidence, but selling it now is not any easier because of the LE.

I can totally relate 😂

I've been played too. Limited edition runs will change the ''maybe later/maybe one day'' thoughts for a simple ''now/never''

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sl9979741

Absolutely! Do you think the fact it's limited encourages you to choose it now? If you're on the fence between many watches. The one you don't get to choose next year is the limited edition one.

Well, in my situation, the fact the watches were limited is why I can't buy them at present. If they were available, concurrently with me wanting one, then the highly limited edition nature would mean I purchased immediately. But again, not for the exclusivity, but for the fact that if they only do 150 units every few years, it's a hell of a long time to wait if you miss out. Meanwhile, when Seiko does a "limited" run in the thousands of units, I don't feel the rush at all, because I know, 9 times out of 10, it won't sell out very fast. There's a Seiko model for Australia only - 1000 units - that's still available, several years after release!

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GoingTopShelf

I have two limited edition watches and I got them both because I greatly preferred them to the standard models. I didn't care about the exclusivity. My Oris Big Crown Pointer Date was "limited" to 3,000 pieces, which isn't very limited at all. I just wanted a white dialed BCPD as I much prefer the two toned numerals over the standard, all-white text on the normal production run models. My pink Monta Noble is limited to 115 pieces, which is truly limited. But I got it because I thought the pink dial was rad. No more, no less. I don't think I would ever get a watch ONLY because the fact that it was limited. I would have to love the watch first, use the limited nature as an input, second.

Definitely! The watch itself is the product. The fact it's limited edition is at most a cherry-on-top. But that marketing ploy will encourage you make the decision right then and there and not next year, when in fact the watches will probably be indefnitely available, especially the Oris at 3,000 units.

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sl9979741

That a really good point I haven't thought about. Thanks for taking the time to explain everything so clearly

By profession, I'm a librarian. Explaining things clearly is my bread and butter! 🤣 Cheers! 🍷

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sl9979741

Wow that's a crazy markup! I've almost fallen in the limited edition gshock trap many times, especially with the 40th annivesary lineup. I can totally understand.

Btw, I went back to the same store many times after seeing the limited edition watches and they were still there. It doesn't seem like they sell that well

G Shocks are cool watches. I have quite a few . Silly mark up, but I think it's legit. I'd never wear it out only at home.

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sl9979741

Interesting! So 500 huh. I'm really glad you shared a number. I originally wanted to make a poll instead of a regular post, and ask for the number that represents the exclusivity threshold. I changed my mind because I didn't want to limit the discussion to only numbers.

Thanks for your input!

Well the numbers are subjective to individual preference. Some might even say if it is above 200 pcs it's too many for a limited edition. I would say 200 or less is ultra limited and 50 or less would be unobtainium. That's just me of course. It also depends on what watch we are talking about and how in demand it is.

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complication

Well, in my situation, the fact the watches were limited is why I can't buy them at present. If they were available, concurrently with me wanting one, then the highly limited edition nature would mean I purchased immediately. But again, not for the exclusivity, but for the fact that if they only do 150 units every few years, it's a hell of a long time to wait if you miss out. Meanwhile, when Seiko does a "limited" run in the thousands of units, I don't feel the rush at all, because I know, 9 times out of 10, it won't sell out very fast. There's a Seiko model for Australia only - 1000 units - that's still available, several years after release!

Well put! That's almost exactly the realization I've been having that led to me making this post.

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sl9979741

Absolutely! Do you think the fact it's limited encourages you to choose it now? If you're on the fence between many watches. The one you don't get to choose next year is the limited edition one.

Yes. I have't seen one of them. I'll probably end of getting it. I can tell the guy wants to sell it. I think once its in my possession I'll be very happy with my decision. But not at the price they are selling it for. But I understand the bargaining game and know they want to make some kind of profit.

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Just like @KristianG wrote before, limited editions and exclusivity are not synonymous.

Exclusivity infers an element of choice and that something about us made us worthy of getting one and therefore we are now one of the chosen and there is no one who can take this away from us.

Limiting something just means that there's going to be some competition to get it due to a scarcity (which is often more imagined than real). This will stir the pot a bit, create a buzz, raise the brand recognition and maybe even increase prices of other models due to the halo effect. The brands marketing will try to convince us that by competing and winning for this limited edition we will also gain something exclusive, but that's not what it really mean.

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I feel, "just buy what you like". Let the allure be design, model etc... not exclusivity. I would say it's a bonus if you find a piece you love, and also happens to be a LE or low production model. If a release checks all your boxes, but is LE, I can only justify 10-15% price increase(IMO).

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Icarium

I do understand the lure...limited edition! Makes me somehow special as well!

Earlier this year I was really tempted by this one:

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Only 23 apparently being produced. I like Squale, I liked the look of this one AND i liked the 'specialness'. But then I realized you pay about 1k over normal price for that 'specialness'. Not tempted anymore :)

So yeah, obviously special/limited editions are a marketing ploy. Would only buy one if i happen to have a special connection with the chosen theme AND if it's not significantly more expensive than the regular model.

I saw that piece in person when Gnomon did that launch event. Not my cuppa, to say the least.

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Im not very aligned with the whole idea of LE.

Just look at Grand Seiko, they released so many LE! Each time I tot I missed out on some great dial on their LE watch, they released another similar LE with different case or size or movement.

Im starting to feel they determine their next watch design with a dice and if it happens to be released before. They would classify it as re-issue 😂😂😂

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Catskinner

Just like @KristianG wrote before, limited editions and exclusivity are not synonymous.

Exclusivity infers an element of choice and that something about us made us worthy of getting one and therefore we are now one of the chosen and there is no one who can take this away from us.

Limiting something just means that there's going to be some competition to get it due to a scarcity (which is often more imagined than real). This will stir the pot a bit, create a buzz, raise the brand recognition and maybe even increase prices of other models due to the halo effect. The brands marketing will try to convince us that by competing and winning for this limited edition we will also gain something exclusive, but that's not what it really mean.

Absolutely! Your very clear and well-defined opinion on the subject helped me understand a lot of what goes on in my own mind when it comes to this subject. I really enjoyed the longer article your wrote about this. Thank you for keeping the discussion alive!

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My view on limited editions is that if I can afford to buy it, it ain't limited.