Seiko SRPD55 (SBSA005) Review- The Seiko 5 People Love To Hate
Strap in, this one is long winded. I'm sorry in advance.
At the end of 2022, I picked up the SRPE67 (DressKX) as a cheap, beater watch to take out into the woods. However, I got more than I bargained for in the sense that this "cheap" Seiko 5 was actually pretty awesome. The case design was perfect for my wrist, the finishing was exactly what I was looking for; not too blingy but still well done. It was comfortable on the wrist, paired great with natos and everything about the dial was perfect for me, right down the the Kanji date wheel my version happen to have (I unwittingly purchased a JDM model of Amazon).
This started to change something in me in terms of what I wanted in a watch. My SLA057, while gorgeous and flawlessly made by Grand Seiko, was anything but a tool watch to me. Sure, it's made from things like Everbrilliant Steel, has a robust bezel and screw down crown with 200m of WR, but the thing was so luxurious, it started to not make sense for me and my lifestyle. I like the idea of having a no-nonsense, cool looking tool watch that was comfortable to wear. The SRPE67 was giving that to me and owning something as nice and as expensive as the SLA started to make less sense.
Enter the Seiko 5KX line. After the SRPE67 hooked me AND after trying a friends' SKX on for the first time, I was totally hooked on the SKX case and overall design. I couldn't stop thinking about getting a "dive" version of the DressKX. I started out by picking up an SRPD91, a "gunmetal" grey case 5KX that I have a review on. I love the look of that case, but I still wanted that traditional "silver" case and black dial, so I ended up buying the SRPD55. Ever since finding out that my DressKX had a Kanji date wheel, I kind of became obsessed with having JDM versions so I picked up the SBSA005 from eBay. I like it mostly for the Japanese date wheel, but I also like the fact that the JDM Seiko 5's are made in Japan.
So, let's address the 800 pound gorilla in the room... these 5KX's aren't "true" dive watches. Seiko discontinued the SKX, took the design and tweaked it a bit, gave it a newer movement, slapped a Seiko 5 logo on it and said "You're welcome." It is seen by many as a grave injustice. A blight on the historic company that is Seiko. The downright disgust I see for the 5KX line is all over the place and I mean, I understand it to a degree. It's technically a "less capable" watch in terms of being a "real" diver.
However, for me, 5KX's give me essentially everything I need/want. The case design has become probably my all time favorite. It strikes that perfect balance of being subdued and toolish, but having a slight "pop" to it. And this is the part many might scream "HERETIC!!" but I actually prefer the dial of the 5KX to the original SKX. For starters, I like that not only are the hands lined in metal, but all the indices are too. The handset and indices now match each other and the way they play with light looks SO good, especially in dimly lit situations. I actually prefer the cursive "Automatic" at the bottom and I happen to like the Seiko 5 logo underneath "Seiko" at the top. I think all of it comes together perfectly.
"But what about the 100m of WR and push/pull crown???" you might ask. I see you. I hear you. The answer is, 100m is perfectly adequate for me. As I talked about in my SRPE67 review, you can swim all day long with these Seiko 5's. The sea turtles in the Caribbean didn't seem to mind that I was swimming along side them with only a Seiko 5 on the wrist. In fact, the further down I went, the more my head felt like it was going to explode from all that added "pressure." I probably made it a whopping 10 feet before my head was like, "Dude, are you trying to crush me? Get back up to about 5 feet will you?" Those little forays used up a whole 3% of my watches' 10 bar pressure rating. That's about as extreme as I need my watches to be.
Overall, the 5KX and DressKX just suit me. An original Seiko designed dial and case that wears great, looks even greater and has the toolish specs to keep up with me whether I'm hiking in the woods or swimming with sea turtles in the Caribbean. The 4R movements have all run within spec and give me consistency and that's all I care about in the movement department.
These continue to get so much hate. With the advent of the new 38mm versions (which I want to try by the way), I see all the head shaking again and a surprising number of people calling these nothing more than "fashion watches." I genuinely don't understand that sentiment. I think if you evaluate these watches on their own, they are brilliant, especially for the $150-$250 range you can get find them for.
Seiko SRPD55 (SBSA005) Review- The Seiko 5 People Love To Hate
Yes
No
- Dial design/finishing
- Case size/design
- Overall finishing
- Good bezel action
- Price/value
- 4R36 isn't the most accurate
- Bezel insert is probably the "cheapest" looking part of the watch
- Could be a tad thinner
Current collection: Seiko SARB033, Seiko SBSA057, Seiko SZSB011
Really nice review! I too love this dial and model, and I wish I've had your luck receiving the JDM version when I purchased my SRPE51K1, back then my first automatic 😉
Excellent review. You share my sentiments on the 5KX and variants. It's an excellent watch for what it is. It suits my needs and then some. I will never drive to 100m. I will never use it's full potential. If mine gets a splash of water, it's as deep as it will ever go.
The hands matching the markers is accurate on the some dials. We had a discussion regarding this yesterday. It depends on the dial color. On more vibrant colors, the hands are original gold and marker are silver rimmed. https://www.watchcrunch.com/Paragonmsp/posts/the-hands-don-t-match-the-markers-what-s-going-on-33998
It's a great little watch but don't pay full sticker price. There's always a sale of sort going around. I paid mine $210CAD plus appropriate taxes. That's about $155USD. Shop around, get it on sale and you will be extremely happy you did!
Seiko was the only reason i bought a timegrapher. Great watch if they put another 15 minutes into the regulation.
Wear your Seiko without fear of destroying it. It’s part of the charm and mentally freeing to not worry about it.
Excellent review, I have just started going down the JDM route also. Fantastic watch you have.
Hehe, the bezel on my SRPD only lasted a few days before I replaced it. The SKX compatibility for many parts is great.
Nothing peaks my interest in a watch so much as some talking head with multiple hidden agendas telling me not to. Many content creators spend 15-20 minutes slagging a watch after drawing views by leveraging the negative bias algorithm with a click bait title (looking at you T3) then close the episode with a disingenuous "Wear what you love." when they really mean wear what THEY love. Kudos to you for being true to yourself.
I timed my 4R36 in my SRPE93 daily for a few weeks and typically got -3 to +2 per day. There were some outliers, though speculated that might be due to low power reserve. Overall I’m pretty happy with the 4R36. Performed way better than Seikos specs for that movement suggested which make me question whether marketing/warranty/servicing decisions might weigh into sand bagging their own specs.
I just can't like the 5KX, a non-dive watch pretending to be a dive watch is a no-no for me. However, the DressKX is a different thing. I don't like the direction in which Seiko is going (pricing moving upmarket while the watches are not living up to half the MSRP), as well as their QC having gone to the dogs. However, I actually like the DressKX and even have thought of buying one, however it's just too low on my priority list. Still, I wouldn't exclude buying one in some more or less distant future.
Thanks for sharing your watches.I appreciate info.I love my Seikos.started with Arctura,tuna sbbdn031 JDM(hope I got model#right) SKX 007(Arabic date)&a chrono work gifted me with my name @ company logo.Thanks for informing me on 5KX.If my SKX fails,I now know there is a similar model to replace it with.
I just can't like the 5KX, a non-dive watch pretending to be a dive watch is a no-no for me. However, the DressKX is a different thing. I don't like the direction in which Seiko is going (pricing moving upmarket while the watches are not living up to half the MSRP), as well as their QC having gone to the dogs. However, I actually like the DressKX and even have thought of buying one, however it's just too low on my priority list. Still, I wouldn't exclude buying one in some more or less distant future.
Yeah, I get it to an extent. They took a beloved diver design and made it into just a "sports watch." I don't know that I agree with their QC completely going to the dogs, however. I've had good experience with their build quality and QC with many of their price tiers. I think simply the number in which Seiko mass produces watches, you hear more about "the bad" especially as so many watch enthusiasts in our "bubble" own so many. This is just an assumption though. But just in my personal experience, I think I've owned something like a dozen Seiko watches at nearly every price tier. I've always been happy with them in terms of quality. You should definitely check out the DressKX though! You should be able to get them for under $200 all day long.
Great, write up my friend. In my opinion, Seiko’s are not only great value for money, but you can also tear into a Seiko and learn a whole lot of how a mechanical watch works. You have to be careful though once you start it’s tough to stop. Seiko also has a very inclusive fan base as opposed to slightly exclusive other watch brands seem to have.
I could not agree more about your comment on the dial. As much as I love the iconic SKX painted indices, the silver frame around the lume now matching the handset looks so much more elevated in my opinion. And so do the applied logo and cursive Automatic. Only upgrades in my eyes.
The bezel and bezel font were my least favorite part of the design which is why I replaced them both after about a month for a more aggressive looking LX style bezel and a ceramic insert resembling the SLA line.