Interview with lead 12 X designer *I NEED YOU*

Do you feel compelled to do things by the market that you do not like? What would be the difference in the watch you would make if sales goals and market research were ignored? Do you secretly hate watch nerds and why?

Great questions!!!

Ok ask…

1) what’s the inspiration of the design? Was it Zenith?

2) what’s the pitfall of legibility on the dial? Or was legibility was not even thought of? Cuz it sure looks like it?

3) who approved this design?

4) are you still employed after this design?

5) how do you feel about being called a Homage designer?

6)why do you think this will stand out from other skeleton dial design? Cuz it looks the same as others?

7) can your design tell time?!

Ok should I go on?!

Tough questions I love it. I'll ask them!!

I really would love their response!! I want to know as well are they forced to design a certain watch of is it a free for all?!

A bit like ichibunz - I’d love you to dig in to the legibility angle. It seems so clear that different coloured or finished hands would have made the watch so much easier to read. Are they acting within any constraints? Is it a design choice?

In general the Christopher Wards of the last couple of years are hitting it out of the park!

How do Czapek feel about it?

Any plans for more skeletons in a more conventional package? EG an affordable version that's not a homage , with SS and conventional lugs.

Is it harder to design a halo product than a "bread and butter" seller?

Thanks 👍🏻

Did you consider using the skeletonization as indices, like the Cartier Santos? Can you help me understand the value difference between the TwelveX and a Rado True Square?

Please do a little research before asking questions.

If it looks like any watch, it looks like the Czapek Antarctique Revelation.

A few minutes reading and you will learn why

What’s the one design you’ve not been able to make work? Is there something you find yourself coming back to that’s proving difficult?

What part of a watch do you think isn’t given enough attention in mass market watches? (Thinking things like a crown or guards, small details)

I'll ask all of them!

As a designer myself, I am always interested in hearing about what tools and software other designers are using. Are ideas hand sketched first or done straight on the computer?

Yeah that I believe the designer used to work for Czapek?

Hence the Homage question…

oh I thought the interview is for that?! Oh well he can pass it along lol

Genta has a style - it’s clear, and it carries through, plus they are not identical. Despite similar briefs, the Royal Oak looks different to the Nautilus, which looks different to the Ingenieur. Guess that means some designers are just better than others, especially in the case of Genta because his tropes just get regurgitated (and it’s a lazy stereotype, it pisses me off). You want to compare this scenario to Genta’s output over the years? Your multiple legendary models, two watch companies, and a Bvlgari purchasing it all too short.

One of those who came up with the concept (again, note the plural)

rocks up at CW and makes a very similar looking watch. Cheaper, but similar. It’s not $26k similar, but it’s a definitely $2k homage similar… hence the perfectly reasonable question, what do Czapek think about this?

I’d be a little pissed. In my field I, and a couple of other colleagues, have seen our spreadsheets propagate into the wild, and it’s annoying when you cannot do anything about it. Mine, which pisses me off, are bespoke to problems that are very unique to certain projects. The maths is pretty simple, but the concept isn’t, and there is a style, but it’s fine… I don’t like it, and people who ask me get that as an answer: I don’t like it, I’m flattered they think it’s the answer to the problem, no I haven’t seen the bottle of whiskey I’m owed by those who have adopted them…

It’s not even Royal Oak to Nautilus to Ingeniuer “follow the style”, it’s round watch on integrated bracelet with a colourful dial and a skeleton option to round watch on integrated bracelet with a colourful dial and skeleton option similar.

To say there aren't clear differences is like saying 2 black cars look the same. I pointed out the very clear differences. Only a novice would see these watches from across a room and confuse 1 for the other. The completely difference bracelet links alone are vastly different. It would be like confusing a oyster for a jubilee. Is there inspiration? Of course and again it is because a designer on 1 now works for the other company. History is littered with designers across many industries bring their work as you say with them. This is not a design that was just nicked because you can't nick your own work.

Depending on the contract, it’s not clear cut. Whatever company I work for owns most of my design stuff (spreadsheets included), which is fine, I’m not a software designer, and the maths is universal so I cannot claim ownership of that. You pay me for my experience. Czapek could own a portion, by some technicality, and maybe they don’t care? It’s a perfectly reasonable question. Again, I would be pissed if one of my designers was working on a cheaper integrated steel sports watch that had some passing resemblance to mine that he developed. Legal or not, it’s a bit close to the bone. They look relatively similar (they are not identical, no one said that). You used the word inspiration… yes, from the same designer… hence, the question, again, what do Czapek think about this?

Only case I can think of a design being protected is the Royal Oak. Companies can't really claim a design as protected.

“Why did you skimp again on a surface hardening”?

This is a good discussion. My viewpoint is that this is not a matter of crime or plagiarism, but of value and knowledge.

There are also levels. It is true that the Twelve looks closer to a Antarctique than the Nautilus looks to a Royal Oak. So in that sense the designer didn't do great job differentiating. At the same time he designed for a much lower price point and I am sure there were limitations. I would point out the fact that we comparing Buchmann to Genta already says a lot.

The Twelve is a homage in the truest sense; they gave full credit to their inspirations. I would liken it to a band covering songs from a more famous artist. They don't need to claim it is their own to add something new. The brands that claim a design is their own by retconning their history are the ones I don't like. (The Skyline, and PRX are guilty of that). I respect IWC for not releasing their Yacht Club II.

Original designs have more attraction, but cost more. Objectively, a Laureato hold its own against the Royal Oak in terms of company history and quality, but you get a discount for being a knock off. Similarly with the Twelve, you would expect to pay less because it is the second design.

The exception is the Nautilus, where you pay more for a design that is a bit derivative of another. I do believe that is a source of angst for Patek, and a reason they never wanted to emphasize the model.

Please do talk about how he plans to scale out in terms of units available. Everything good is either sold-out or needs pre-order. I don't want CW to be another artificially deflated supply to create value. People should value it for the design language, and reliability of these watches.

Ok

When did you receive your first holy communion and what did it taste like?

Perfect

For the love of god, please do not ask these questions as-is in your interview. They are aggressive and unambiguously attacking, and if you ask them then you will be creating a hostile interview. An interview like that has its place in journalism and politics etc, but why would you want to do that to someone who's just doing their job in an industry we love?

By all means, dig into legibility and consumer feedback (even negative), but please do it in a way that explores your interviewee's perspective and experiences with respect and a genuine desire to learn what they have to share.

Otherwise, you risk poisoning the well, so to speak. What designer would want to give an interview to a watch nerd like us if they're just going to be attacked? And if the watch crunch name is at all associated with a hostile interview, that is a very bad look for the rest of us too.

I'll ask them on the 23rd all of your questions! I'll upload the video follow me for more updates!

What's your go to meal deal

Sandwich

Crisps /Chips

Drink

Perfect