How do you classify a microbrand?

Okay so I was just reading another post asking about why micros weren’t producing digital watches and as I’d just been on the Yema website and seen a digital I put that in the comments. Then I got to thinking: are Yema a microbrand? They were owned by Seiko and probably have more resources then micros generally have. Also how about Chris Ward, with their stock and size can they really still be classed as a microbrand? Yes their independent from any of the ultra large groups like Swatch and Seiko, but so are Rolex so that alone can’t mean too much. 
So where do you draw the line? 

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Microbrands usually always slap NH35 movements in Chinese cases with their logo on the dial. they do small runs because they can not afford the stock overhead. I could start a brand and get all that stuff drop shipped direct from China tomorrow. All you need is a website. Alibaba is the bulk supplier for that and is the parent company of Aliexpress.

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Clearly there is a difference between a micro brand and independent.  While most all micro brands are also independent, not all independents could be considered to be a micro brand.  One could just label them all as independent and dispense with it, no need to spit hairs.

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OldSnafu

Microbrands usually always slap NH35 movements in Chinese cases with their logo on the dial. they do small runs because they can not afford the stock overhead. I could start a brand and get all that stuff drop shipped direct from China tomorrow. All you need is a website. Alibaba is the bulk supplier for that and is the parent company of Aliexpress.

Is that Seiko movement cheaper than a Miyota? Most of the brands I look at go for the Citizen owned movement. 

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SurferJohn

Clearly there is a difference between a micro brand and independent.  While most all micro brands are also independent, not all independents could be considered to be a micro brand.  One could just label them all as independent and dispense with it, no need to spit hairs.

You make a good point and that would definitely take remove a lot of the confusion. Then you could simply refer to the size of the independent as a way of describing it. 
 

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Very long discussion on it here.  You will see lots of debate on the topic, but there is no one clear answer. Couple of groups as @roberto mentioned, but I will try to break some down as well.

  • Independent watchmakers who carefully source/make their own supplies, perhaps make their movements or use high-end movements as bases. They are watchmakers at heart and perhaps This can run the range from brands like Atelier Wen, Dornbluth and Sohne, up to the likes of MB&F. Do independents count as micro? Much debated topic. 
  • Private Label disguised as Micro - I do not know what else to call it, but these are brands that one person or a group of folks with money get together and decide they want to own a watch company. Sometimes they revive an old brand, but more often than not they start their own named brand. They enlist the help of a private label manufacturer (Walca, Xantia, and Roventa for example) who leverages existing vendors to build a watch. Most micro brands we know today fall in this realm. The challenge is, there are genuine enthusiast brands that start this way where the owners get further involved as they mature and perhaps take back part of the process. A more critical take is some of these brands could also be hedge fund bros looking to make a quick buck. They do very little but front the cash. There is a TON of grey in this space. 
  • Crowdfunded brands - These are similar to the above, but they lack the funding or refuse to take the risk of self-funding. So they start a Kickstarter, or do a limited launch to raise capital and then seek out a private label manufacturer, or partner with an independent. Not all private labels are made equally and they made decide to use the lowest cost manufacturer to make the most, or they could use a higher quality Swiss PL to help. Sadly, most tend to use the same few Chinese companies. Other times, you may get higher-end players in this space as well, but they are the exception. 
  • The veterans - Not sure what else to call this either. But these may be a former large brand or private label employee(s) who decide to start their own brand. They already have the connections, they know the best vendors, and perhaps even have their own watchmakers. They cut out the private label companies and manage everything in-house. In our hearts we all want to support brands like this. Some of these "micro brands" grow into some of the larger independent brands we know and love.  
  • The homages - I personally do not consider any of these micro companies, be it Steinhart, Parnis, Pagani Designs, etc micro. They design nothing, or the vast majority of their watches are someone else's IP. They all likely use the same couple of Chinese companies to make their watches. Homage companies have their place, I am not bashing them, but they only exist to sell a "not quite replica" version of another product. 

As a result, many people will plant their flag in one or all of these types of companies as "true micro brands."  I have no issues with most of them and consider all of them micro, but to each their own definition-wise. 

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Matt84

Is that Seiko movement cheaper than a Miyota? Most of the brands I look at go for the Citizen owned movement. 

The nh35 is comparable to the 80xx series Miyota. Both are work horses but the Miyota movement is a little cheaper. Some microbrands use the 90xx series high beat movements which run about $100.00 compared the the $50.00 NH35.

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AllTheWatches

Very long discussion on it here.  You will see lots of debate on the topic, but there is no one clear answer. Couple of groups as @roberto mentioned, but I will try to break some down as well.

  • Independent watchmakers who carefully source/make their own supplies, perhaps make their movements or use high-end movements as bases. They are watchmakers at heart and perhaps This can run the range from brands like Atelier Wen, Dornbluth and Sohne, up to the likes of MB&F. Do independents count as micro? Much debated topic. 
  • Private Label disguised as Micro - I do not know what else to call it, but these are brands that one person or a group of folks with money get together and decide they want to own a watch company. Sometimes they revive an old brand, but more often than not they start their own named brand. They enlist the help of a private label manufacturer (Walca, Xantia, and Roventa for example) who leverages existing vendors to build a watch. Most micro brands we know today fall in this realm. The challenge is, there are genuine enthusiast brands that start this way where the owners get further involved as they mature and perhaps take back part of the process. A more critical take is some of these brands could also be hedge fund bros looking to make a quick buck. They do very little but front the cash. There is a TON of grey in this space. 
  • Crowdfunded brands - These are similar to the above, but they lack the funding or refuse to take the risk of self-funding. So they start a Kickstarter, or do a limited launch to raise capital and then seek out a private label manufacturer, or partner with an independent. Not all private labels are made equally and they made decide to use the lowest cost manufacturer to make the most, or they could use a higher quality Swiss PL to help. Sadly, most tend to use the same few Chinese companies. Other times, you may get higher-end players in this space as well, but they are the exception. 
  • The veterans - Not sure what else to call this either. But these may be a former large brand or private label employee(s) who decide to start their own brand. They already have the connections, they know the best vendors, and perhaps even have their own watchmakers. They cut out the private label companies and manage everything in-house. In our hearts we all want to support brands like this. Some of these "micro brands" grow into some of the larger independent brands we know and love.  
  • The homages - I personally do not consider any of these micro companies, be it Steinhart, Parnis, Pagani Designs, etc micro. They design nothing, or the vast majority of their watches are someone else's IP. They all likely use the same couple of Chinese companies to make their watches. Homage companies have their place, I am not bashing them, but they only exist to sell a "not quite replica" version of another product. 

As a result, many people will plant their flag in one or all of these types of companies as "true micro brands."  I have no issues with most of them and consider all of them micro, but to each their own definition-wise. 

This seems to capture pretty much everything.  The only other possible category I can think of would be the few boutique/bespoke outfits, usually with only one (very skilled) watchmaker turning out a small number of watches a year.  Keaton Myrick would be one example.  Or would you throw them in with the independents?

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To me, a watch brand sells watches. Can I buy a watch from you? Watch brand. Microbrands, on the other hand, sell a few watches for like a week. Can I buy a watch from you? No? Not until next year? Microbrand.

Small batches. Limited availability. Microbrand.

In other words, a microbrand is a watch company that can't always afford to sell watches.

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Matt84

Is that Seiko movement cheaper than a Miyota? Most of the brands I look at go for the Citizen owned movement. 

Depending on which Miyota movement used, I think.

Seiko only sells their lowest tier movement to others (their NH35 and variants) while Miyota have the 8000 series and the 9000 series. Which as I remembered the 8000s are kinda meh and the 9000s are ok if you don't mind a loud rotor or something like that?

They're all easily serviceable, easy to source and just keeps going imo.

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Yema is a bit difficult to peg. On one hand their current owners were not satisfied with reviving only the brand name, as they restarted R&D with their YEMA2000 & YEMA3000 movements and they hinted at a new micro-rotor calibre coming soon, they restarted production and they do their own distribution and after sales service and everything is centralized in their facilities in France. I can't remember off hand of any other case were so much efforts were put into reviving a brand and the complexity of this operation goes far beyond what microbrands do.

OTOH, they have a very limited sales volume, most if not all of their sales are done on-line and they still use crowd funding campaigns to launch new models. All of which is very indicative of a micro-brand.

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This something I have discussed many times, when is a micro brand no longer a micro brand. I don't think Chris Ward are any longer a micro brand, Yema certainly aren't, and I don't even think San Martin are either. It's all quite subjective 

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After building your 6218th watch in a single calendar year your status switches from microbrand to independent watchmaker.  I thought that was common knowledge.  

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TalkingDugong

Depending on which Miyota movement used, I think.

Seiko only sells their lowest tier movement to others (their NH35 and variants) while Miyota have the 8000 series and the 9000 series. Which as I remembered the 8000s are kinda meh and the 9000s are ok if you don't mind a loud rotor or something like that?

They're all easily serviceable, easy to source and just keeps going imo.

Seiko just started selling their new GMT movements to the micro's as they are popping up all over and in better quality cases and bracelets than Seiko. Sooner or later i bet the vaunted spring drive goes that way too. It has already tricked down into the Seiko line up from GS.

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AllTheWatches

Very long discussion on it here.  You will see lots of debate on the topic, but there is no one clear answer. Couple of groups as @roberto mentioned, but I will try to break some down as well.

  • Independent watchmakers who carefully source/make their own supplies, perhaps make their movements or use high-end movements as bases. They are watchmakers at heart and perhaps This can run the range from brands like Atelier Wen, Dornbluth and Sohne, up to the likes of MB&F. Do independents count as micro? Much debated topic. 
  • Private Label disguised as Micro - I do not know what else to call it, but these are brands that one person or a group of folks with money get together and decide they want to own a watch company. Sometimes they revive an old brand, but more often than not they start their own named brand. They enlist the help of a private label manufacturer (Walca, Xantia, and Roventa for example) who leverages existing vendors to build a watch. Most micro brands we know today fall in this realm. The challenge is, there are genuine enthusiast brands that start this way where the owners get further involved as they mature and perhaps take back part of the process. A more critical take is some of these brands could also be hedge fund bros looking to make a quick buck. They do very little but front the cash. There is a TON of grey in this space. 
  • Crowdfunded brands - These are similar to the above, but they lack the funding or refuse to take the risk of self-funding. So they start a Kickstarter, or do a limited launch to raise capital and then seek out a private label manufacturer, or partner with an independent. Not all private labels are made equally and they made decide to use the lowest cost manufacturer to make the most, or they could use a higher quality Swiss PL to help. Sadly, most tend to use the same few Chinese companies. Other times, you may get higher-end players in this space as well, but they are the exception. 
  • The veterans - Not sure what else to call this either. But these may be a former large brand or private label employee(s) who decide to start their own brand. They already have the connections, they know the best vendors, and perhaps even have their own watchmakers. They cut out the private label companies and manage everything in-house. In our hearts we all want to support brands like this. Some of these "micro brands" grow into some of the larger independent brands we know and love.  
  • The homages - I personally do not consider any of these micro companies, be it Steinhart, Parnis, Pagani Designs, etc micro. They design nothing, or the vast majority of their watches are someone else's IP. They all likely use the same couple of Chinese companies to make their watches. Homage companies have their place, I am not bashing them, but they only exist to sell a "not quite replica" version of another product. 

As a result, many people will plant their flag in one or all of these types of companies as "true micro brands."  I have no issues with most of them and consider all of them micro, but to each their own definition-wise. 

Wow thank you for this. That’s a lot of information I hadn’t thought of. I think I’m with you mostly in that I’d consider certain brands in each group a microbrand. 
I really don’t mind homage brands. Haven’t bought from any of the main ones (apart from maybe Dan Henry) but I feel like most mainstream brands take inspiration from the classics on some of their lines. Two obvious examples of this being Seiko’s Speedtimer and the Casioak, and I’ve got one of them and planning to get the other. 

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TheCianinator

To me, a watch brand sells watches. Can I buy a watch from you? Watch brand. Microbrands, on the other hand, sell a few watches for like a week. Can I buy a watch from you? No? Not until next year? Microbrand.

Small batches. Limited availability. Microbrand.

In other words, a microbrand is a watch company that can't always afford to sell watches.

This would mean that a lot of those we consider micros stop being that quite quickly. I consider Boldr to be a micro but maybe this goes back to @SurferJohn point and we should just call them independents and we could call Boldr a smallish independent?

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Not sure about this one for me an independent is a brand that works outside of large established groups. That’s why Chris Ward can be classed as an independent because from what I understand their mainly made in Switzerland despite being UK based. This might mean that the term independent is a bit broad but we’ve got to call them something. 

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Actaully, Rolex is owned by the Wilsdorf foundation with also owns Tudor so really they are just a brand in a group.

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AllTheWatches

Very long discussion on it here.  You will see lots of debate on the topic, but there is no one clear answer. Couple of groups as @roberto mentioned, but I will try to break some down as well.

  • Independent watchmakers who carefully source/make their own supplies, perhaps make their movements or use high-end movements as bases. They are watchmakers at heart and perhaps This can run the range from brands like Atelier Wen, Dornbluth and Sohne, up to the likes of MB&F. Do independents count as micro? Much debated topic. 
  • Private Label disguised as Micro - I do not know what else to call it, but these are brands that one person or a group of folks with money get together and decide they want to own a watch company. Sometimes they revive an old brand, but more often than not they start their own named brand. They enlist the help of a private label manufacturer (Walca, Xantia, and Roventa for example) who leverages existing vendors to build a watch. Most micro brands we know today fall in this realm. The challenge is, there are genuine enthusiast brands that start this way where the owners get further involved as they mature and perhaps take back part of the process. A more critical take is some of these brands could also be hedge fund bros looking to make a quick buck. They do very little but front the cash. There is a TON of grey in this space. 
  • Crowdfunded brands - These are similar to the above, but they lack the funding or refuse to take the risk of self-funding. So they start a Kickstarter, or do a limited launch to raise capital and then seek out a private label manufacturer, or partner with an independent. Not all private labels are made equally and they made decide to use the lowest cost manufacturer to make the most, or they could use a higher quality Swiss PL to help. Sadly, most tend to use the same few Chinese companies. Other times, you may get higher-end players in this space as well, but they are the exception. 
  • The veterans - Not sure what else to call this either. But these may be a former large brand or private label employee(s) who decide to start their own brand. They already have the connections, they know the best vendors, and perhaps even have their own watchmakers. They cut out the private label companies and manage everything in-house. In our hearts we all want to support brands like this. Some of these "micro brands" grow into some of the larger independent brands we know and love.  
  • The homages - I personally do not consider any of these micro companies, be it Steinhart, Parnis, Pagani Designs, etc micro. They design nothing, or the vast majority of their watches are someone else's IP. They all likely use the same couple of Chinese companies to make their watches. Homage companies have their place, I am not bashing them, but they only exist to sell a "not quite replica" version of another product. 

As a result, many people will plant their flag in one or all of these types of companies as "true micro brands."  I have no issues with most of them and consider all of them micro, but to each their own definition-wise. 

I'd add a slight variation to the private label disguised as micro if I may.

You also get brands like Spinnaker/AVI8 etc that are created as brands by white label manufacturers and then marketed as 'microbrands' (despite making many tens of thousands of watches a year for home shopping networks etc) because we love a scrappy little little start up.

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Pete_NSOW

I'd add a slight variation to the private label disguised as micro if I may.

You also get brands like Spinnaker/AVI8 etc that are created as brands by white label manufacturers and then marketed as 'microbrands' (despite making many tens of thousands of watches a year for home shopping networks etc) because we love a scrappy little little start up.

Absolutely. This is what makes defining micro a challenge. 

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TheCianinator

To me, a watch brand sells watches. Can I buy a watch from you? Watch brand. Microbrands, on the other hand, sell a few watches for like a week. Can I buy a watch from you? No? Not until next year? Microbrand.

Small batches. Limited availability. Microbrand.

In other words, a microbrand is a watch company that can't always afford to sell watches.

So if I have to wait months at an AD to buy a Rolex does that make them a microbrand? 😁

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I prefer the "independent small-batch producer" as a way to describe passionate watchmakers creating under their own label.  It feels more artisanal and intentional.  More true to the idea behind the term "microbrand" which I feel borrows from the beer industry, but I think we should be borrowing from whiskey's lexicon.  😉

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Matt84

Is that Seiko movement cheaper than a Miyota? Most of the brands I look at go for the Citizen owned movement. 

I’ve heard complaints that a similar dollar value Miyota movement is noisier and grittier.

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YYCJim

I’ve heard complaints that a similar dollar value Miyota movement is noisier and grittier.

Thanks my knowledge of movements isn’t great and that’s good to know. 👍