The Brits Are Coming

Is the British watchmaking industry about to return from it’s slumber? Prior to the rise of Quartz and the Swiss, British watchmaking was among the best and most innovative in the world.

There seems to be an emergence of more and more British watch brands in recent years. Granted, a lot of them rely on non-British components but every revolution has to start somewhere. If manufacturing can match the upward trend in design then we could all see another alternative to the likes of Switzerland, Japan, Germany and China.

On wrist is the Christopher Ward Sealander GMT.

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I say bring it. Some of the vintage Brit watches are amazing. Early Bensons had Longines movements! I welcome a resurgence. 

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santiago

I say bring it. Some of the vintage Brit watches are amazing. Early Bensons had Longines movements! I welcome a resurgence. 

@santiago We can all win if we have more choice, right?

Yes definitely lots of famous British brands that fell by the wayside (some were ressurected)…Smiths, Garrard, CWC…Rolex 😉

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@Chunghauphoto  Are Smiths and Garrard making watches again? I'd love to get my hands on a really good Smiths or Garrard. And yes, the more choices, the better. 

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@santiago I’m not sure about Garrard - maybe someone with more knowledge can answer that? The Smiths name has been resurrected by Timefactors in Sheffield and they are selling watches under that name. Nice watches (IMO), if a little eccentric with their sales model….

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Chunghauphoto

@santiago I’m not sure about Garrard - maybe someone with more knowledge can answer that? The Smiths name has been resurrected by Timefactors in Sheffield and they are selling watches under that name. Nice watches (IMO), if a little eccentric with their sales model….

@Chunghauphoto hmm...Now off to look at the new Smiths offerings. Thanks!

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I think the English market is coming back much like the French market. Some old brands being resurrected, many microbrands popping up and some "new" smaller brands (like Bremont in the UK and Yema in France). Really interesting to see where this will lead!

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@unseenhero Yes definitely! The re-emergence of the French is just as exciting. Yema just continue to grow from strength to strength. I know they’ve had a few mis-steps with QC but they seem committed to getting better. And is there a better microbrand success story than Baltic, right now? 

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imho I think it is a very subjective perspective. I think it is more, that thanks to the microbrand boom everywhere local brands are popping up. These brands are still so small that they only known in their local markets. Even a bigger market like the German has so much more brands that were founded in the last years and not known out of German-speaking countries. I don't think that Britain is unique here. In France are also many micros coming up, even in smaller countries like the Netherlands. Here in Central-Europe the British brands are very unknown. I only know about Christopher Ward from British Youtubers. Never seen that in wild live. 

I find this is a very good trend that leads hopefully in a few years/decades to a strong diverse market like we had before quartz crisis!

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Pascal

imho I think it is a very subjective perspective. I think it is more, that thanks to the microbrand boom everywhere local brands are popping up. These brands are still so small that they only known in their local markets. Even a bigger market like the German has so much more brands that were founded in the last years and not known out of German-speaking countries. I don't think that Britain is unique here. In France are also many micros coming up, even in smaller countries like the Netherlands. Here in Central-Europe the British brands are very unknown. I only know about Christopher Ward from British Youtubers. Never seen that in wild live. 

I find this is a very good trend that leads hopefully in a few years/decades to a strong diverse market like we had before quartz crisis!

Yes that a good point. Getting the awareness out into the world is a major factor in the perceived growth of a national watch industry. Being based in the UK has definitely influenced by own opinions.

There just seems to be a very wide gamut of watchmakers here: microbrands like CW, Farer to craft ateliers like anOrdain, to independents like Roger W. Smith and even customisers like Bamford

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I love the look of Christopher ward watches and their build quality appears to be impressive…. Just wish they’d stop changing their logo!

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Have a look at Elliot Brown. They make some incredibly tough and very beautiful watches. The Canford is pretty much the favourite watch in my collection. 

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Munky1

Have a look at Elliot Brown. They make some incredibly tough and very beautiful watches. The Canford is pretty much the favourite watch in my collection. 

@Munky1  Thank You for the recommendation

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Look up Fears watches. This one is on my shortlist for my next piece:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YWsHkIRTaBE

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Richierich

Look up Fears watches. This one is on my shortlist for my next piece:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YWsHkIRTaBE

Great recommendation! Another resurrected brand  I was lucky enough to try on one their rectangular pieces a few months back - lovely proportions

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Don’t forget Marloe Watch Company! They make some great looking pieces

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Bladerunnerii

Don’t forget Marloe Watch Company! They make some great looking pieces

I had a Cherwell a few years ago. Found out 43mm is a monster on my wrist 😂😂. I like the brand - good customer service

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Question is though: are the British brands make their presence felt on the British high street? Because if it's just an online presence they might be anywhere.

I live in the UK, but on my high street I either get a high-end shop (Rolex and the like), or something like HM Samuel, the latter having a rather depressing combination of brands - fashion brands, plus Seiko, Casio, Swatch, perhaps Citizen if I'm lucky. Probably the most likely British brand to be found there is Accurist. Dont recall having ever seen a Christopher Ward in a shop, but then I'm in a small town.

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uhrensohn

Question is though: are the British brands make their presence felt on the British high street? Because if it's just an online presence they might be anywhere.

I live in the UK, but on my high street I either get a high-end shop (Rolex and the like), or something like HM Samuel, the latter having a rather depressing combination of brands - fashion brands, plus Seiko, Casio, Swatch, perhaps Citizen if I'm lucky. Probably the most likely British brand to be found there is Accurist. Dont recall having ever seen a Christopher Ward in a shop, but then I'm in a small town.

@uhrensohn Interesting points. I suppose it kind of depends on the individual brand’s business models. Christopher Ward have always been online only (with their own showroom). Bremont can be found on the ‘high street’ and they also had their own boutiques (pre-pandemic). The ‘problem’ for the online brands is getting customers to notice them. The only way I’ve managed to see (and try on) watches from Studio Underd0g, Fears, AnOrdain, Garrick, CW et al, has been to attend watch events like World Time UK, The Watchmakers Club, Salon QP, Phillips. Hopefully with a combination of meetup groups like Redbar, London Watch Show and the decline of lockdowns - there will be more of face to face with these brands.

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Chunghauphoto

@uhrensohn Interesting points. I suppose it kind of depends on the individual brand’s business models. Christopher Ward have always been online only (with their own showroom). Bremont can be found on the ‘high street’ and they also had their own boutiques (pre-pandemic). The ‘problem’ for the online brands is getting customers to notice them. The only way I’ve managed to see (and try on) watches from Studio Underd0g, Fears, AnOrdain, Garrick, CW et al, has been to attend watch events like World Time UK, The Watchmakers Club, Salon QP, Phillips. Hopefully with a combination of meetup groups like Redbar, London Watch Show and the decline of lockdowns - there will be more of face to face with these brands.

Never been to a watch event, but... I have seen videos of the London watch show, and yikes, this is so not me, all this bling and flexing...   Are all watch events like that?

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uhrensohn

Never been to a watch event, but... I have seen videos of the London watch show, and yikes, this is so not me, all this bling and flexing...   Are all watch events like that?

No not at all. Some have discussion panels woth watchmakers/experts/ and the loke. You can ask questions etc. some you meet the actual makers. most of these, you get to handle the watches and chat to other people. Bit like here

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Have people had experiences with Farer? Their designs are attractive with pleasing use of color, but I've never owned one. 

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Max
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Have people had experiences with Farer? Their designs are attractive with pleasing use of color, but I've never owned one. 

I have the Roche World Timer. Nice build quality and good customer service. One thing they don’t advertise and I’ve never seen it mentioned on any reviews is that the butterfly deployant bracelet has half links for better sizing.

They used to let you pick your preferred serial number. 

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santiago

I say bring it. Some of the vintage Brit watches are amazing. Early Bensons had Longines movements! I welcome a resurgence. 

Well I live in Coventry and our city had a very proud history of pocket watches. back then we were considered better than the Swiss.  It’s all gone now but you can still get Coventry pocket watches and some are very desirable.

Bremont produce in the uk. Most of the assembly is automated I believe like most brands now which is the sad reality of progress.

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myretrowatches

Well I live in Coventry and our city had a very proud history of pocket watches. back then we were considered better than the Swiss.  It’s all gone now but you can still get Coventry pocket watches and some are very desirable.

Bremont produce in the uk. Most of the assembly is automated I believe like most brands now which is the sad reality of progress.

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I'll look up Coventry pocket watches and keep an eye out for them in my hunts. I wasn't aware Bremont produce in the UK. I like Bremont. Thanks for the tip on Coventry! Much appreciated.

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My first "expensive" watch buy was the Vertex M100. Then I got a Bremont MB. Then a CW. Then another CW. I'm even developing a taste for fish and chips! 😉 #britishdesign #britishwatches 

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AlohaJ

My first "expensive" watch buy was the Vertex M100. Then I got a Bremont MB. Then a CW. Then another CW. I'm even developing a taste for fish and chips! 😉 #britishdesign #britishwatches 

Working your way upto a Roger W. Smith…😉?

It’ll be difficult for all watch companies in the next few years but if the fledgling British watch industry can get through it and build on it’s momentum then it will be exciting to see and good for the industry as a whole