AnOrdain no longer part of British Watchmaker’s Alliance
Attended the British Watchmaker’s Day and was surprised to note the absence of AnOrdain. I’m pretty sure they were part of the organisation originally - the founder, Lewis Heath had even appeared as part of the their Open Dial video series. Would be interested to know why they left, if anyone knows.
Of course, not all British brands are represented by the Alliance, notably Bremont (although I did see their CEO, Davide Cerrato at the event). Is it a bit like Rolex or Patek not being part of the GPHG, for example?
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Chung
Really into watches and photography. Come say Hi on here or IG: chunghauphoto
London
Member since
Last active: 32 min ago
6.25” / 15.88 cm
Brexit? 😂
Do you have the grey fume? That's the one I want, if it's yours, any regrets or would you have preferred a different one?
Brexit? 😂
Do you have the grey fume? That's the one I want, if it's yours, any regrets or would you have preferred a different one?
Haha! Or maybe Nicola Sturgeon has become their new CEO??
Unfortunately the pic is just a wrist shot of me trying it when I got the opportunity. Here’s the others if you’re interested…
I do have a build slot but I’m waiting on the release of the Fumé in 35mm (they keep saying it’s coming).
The Grey wasnt a favourite until I saw (it has a hint of blue in it). In person, I felt the fumé effect was more noticeable in the Plum. Its definitely a watch you need to see in person because the colours can change quite a bit and is quite hard to capture on camera.
Do you have a build slot or have you joined the list? Or are you looking to purchase pre-owned?
Interesting!
Sounds like insider politics to me.
It'll either be that BWA have increased costs of membership to something they feel unreasonable, or AnOrdain have decided they don't like how it's run.
I love gossip!
Haha! Or maybe Nicola Sturgeon has become their new CEO??
Unfortunately the pic is just a wrist shot of me trying it when I got the opportunity. Here’s the others if you’re interested…
I do have a build slot but I’m waiting on the release of the Fumé in 35mm (they keep saying it’s coming).
The Grey wasnt a favourite until I saw (it has a hint of blue in it). In person, I felt the fumé effect was more noticeable in the Plum. Its definitely a watch you need to see in person because the colours can change quite a bit and is quite hard to capture on camera.
Do you have a build slot or have you joined the list? Or are you looking to purchase pre-owned?
Awesome, thanks for sharing.
Yes, I have a build slot for 2027. Just haven't seen them in person. They pop the most with green and red but that's harder to wear often. I wanted to get the grey fume with the grey suede strap, simple and I can wear with any outfit.
But that blue too......makes it hard to pick.
Interesting!
Sounds like insider politics to me.
It'll either be that BWA have increased costs of membership to something they feel unreasonable, or AnOrdain have decided they don't like how it's run.
I love gossip!
I didn’t even twig at the event. It wasn’t until I got home and thought about it. I checked on the BWA website and they weren’t listed anymore….
They better still be in business…they’ve got my deposit….😢
Awesome, thanks for sharing.
Yes, I have a build slot for 2027. Just haven't seen them in person. They pop the most with green and red but that's harder to wear often. I wanted to get the grey fume with the grey suede strap, simple and I can wear with any outfit.
But that blue too......makes it hard to pick.
No problem. They don’t seem to be at as many shows/events as they used to - so it’s quite difficult to get them in hand. 2027 gives you plenty of time to save up!
My family jokes that everything I have is ‘grey’ and ‘boring’, so I don’t really want to disappoint them 😉
No problem. They don’t seem to be at as many shows/events as they used to - so it’s quite difficult to get them in hand. 2027 gives you plenty of time to save up!
My family jokes that everything I have is ‘grey’ and ‘boring’, so I don’t really want to disappoint them 😉
Same here, they said my collection is very plain and vanilla. But that's the point, I don't have to worry about clashing.
Unless I one day get an AP, A Lange or Patek, then I don't have to worry about being too loud because apparently I'm rich 😂
This is SO true, it hurts...!
🤝
Yeah they were a notable absence along with Bremont. I’d met Davide at the Bamford Aurora launch and he didn’t give much away!
What’s good for one isn’t good for everyone I guess. With the exception of Roger Smith, Bremont would have probably occupied the highest pricing tier at the event. I could be off the mark here, but likely not by much! You are probably more correct with the Rolex/GPHG take I think, perhaps the other brands there somewhat devalue things a bit? Maybe they don’t want to seem as approachable or have their watches next to competitors.
I have a suspicion Bremont will appear in time.
Cerrato has said publicly that he wants to make changes at Bremont, with their relatively high pricing being something he looks at in detail. I’ve a suspicion it was a fact finding mission for him. As he rethinks Bremont’s roadmap, maybe being part of the Alliance has more perks than drawbacks after seeing the crowds on the day.
This is just my opinion, taken from my recent visit to the An Ordain workshop in Glasgow a few weeks ago. I think that the reason they weren't there is probably down to the fact that they are in the process of moving from a number of different premises into one location in Glasgow's southside. It's a huge task & I really think that they are consumed by it at this time.
Yeah they were a notable absence along with Bremont. I’d met Davide at the Bamford Aurora launch and he didn’t give much away!
What’s good for one isn’t good for everyone I guess. With the exception of Roger Smith, Bremont would have probably occupied the highest pricing tier at the event. I could be off the mark here, but likely not by much! You are probably more correct with the Rolex/GPHG take I think, perhaps the other brands there somewhat devalue things a bit? Maybe they don’t want to seem as approachable or have their watches next to competitors.
I have a suspicion Bremont will appear in time.
Cerrato has said publicly that he wants to make changes at Bremont, with their relatively high pricing being something he looks at in detail. I’ve a suspicion it was a fact finding mission for him. As he rethinks Bremont’s roadmap, maybe being part of the Alliance has more perks than drawbacks after seeing the crowds on the day.
If you look at the manufacturers Tudor, Montblanc etc before he arrived there - it's plain to see that he's an extremely accomplished leader with a great canny sense to spot and dictate trends.
I think you're right - Bremont (and their manufacturing capabilities) would be profitable for all (collaborative) parties concerned and would just make sense. Unless they take Swatch/ETA approach, of course.
I know AnOrdain's order books are pretty well stocked for the next five years (judging by what some people have posted on WC), I just think it's a shame that they can't be a part of all this. The BWA has the potential to offer more to it's members than 'just' sharing components and advertising budgets - it's a potential source of labour/apprentices and gives the industry a more powerful voice when it comes to government help/relief/lobbying etc too. If a watchmaker who only makes a handful of watches a year - like Roger Smith - can see the benefits, then you'd hope others would follow too
This is just my opinion, taken from my recent visit to the An Ordain workshop in Glasgow a few weeks ago. I think that the reason they weren't there is probably down to the fact that they are in the process of moving from a number of different premises into one location in Glasgow's southside. It's a huge task & I really think that they are consumed by it at this time.
Ah Thanks for that interesting comment! I was 'cautioned' about making an in-person pick up, by them because of this!
How did you find the visit? Did you have a tour and speak to people? I would love to do this when the time comes!
Ah Thanks for that interesting comment! I was 'cautioned' about making an in-person pick up, by them because of this!
How did you find the visit? Did you have a tour and speak to people? I would love to do this when the time comes!
Yeah the visit was great, I really enjoyed the experience.
Keir & Erlend showed me around the workshop, talked me through the process in making their dials & introduced me to the various people working within their workshop. They then sat with me & talked me through all of their available watches which I was free to try on. They also talked to me about their bespoke strap service that they're launching very soon. They couldn't have been friendlier although I did feel that they were pushing the Model 3 at me more than the Models 1 & 2 or the Fabrik. Given the price of the Model 3 it's not surprising.
I'm still none the wiser as to which one I will order tomorrow but that's down to the fact that all of their watches have huge appeal. I'm really glad I got my name down on their waiting list over two years ago though. Whatever I decide on I can't wait to get it next month.
Oh man, that sounds so cool! I would ask for some ‘rejected’ dials with my order!! I was dealing with Keir so I might bring it up again when the 35mm Fumé is ‘officially’ announced!
You will have to let us know what you plump for!!
If you look at the manufacturers Tudor, Montblanc etc before he arrived there - it's plain to see that he's an extremely accomplished leader with a great canny sense to spot and dictate trends.
I think you're right - Bremont (and their manufacturing capabilities) would be profitable for all (collaborative) parties concerned and would just make sense. Unless they take Swatch/ETA approach, of course.
I know AnOrdain's order books are pretty well stocked for the next five years (judging by what some people have posted on WC), I just think it's a shame that they can't be a part of all this. The BWA has the potential to offer more to it's members than 'just' sharing components and advertising budgets - it's a potential source of labour/apprentices and gives the industry a more powerful voice when it comes to government help/relief/lobbying etc too. If a watchmaker who only makes a handful of watches a year - like Roger Smith - can see the benefits, then you'd hope others would follow too
That formed most of the chat I had, what it was like marketing the Black Bay relaunch. Amazing to think how tightly they had their fingers crossed at the time with what a success it's been!
You're right on the anOrdain order books, the dials don't make themselves I guess!
Roger Smith had a few watchmakers along with him explaining how each watch they had on display was made, what their role was in its creation, and what they love about working for Roger. That's the clincher for your comment here: "it's a potential source of labour/apprentices and gives the industry a more powerful voice when it comes to government help/relief/lobbying etc too." Watchmakers aren't exactly a thriving population in the industry, the BWA to me feels like a strong networking opportunity. Nobody in large scale industries wants to be forever siloed.
There were more than a few collaborations at the show too. Time and Tide teaming up with Studio Underdog. Oracle Time teaming up with Christopher Ward. The Fears jump hour with Christopher Ward previously.
That's the part that interest me as an enthusiast. What are the chats in the green room/lobby/afterparties like? Knowing creatives, I'd bet those rooms are where a lot of the fresh ideas on the industry come from.
That formed most of the chat I had, what it was like marketing the Black Bay relaunch. Amazing to think how tightly they had their fingers crossed at the time with what a success it's been!
You're right on the anOrdain order books, the dials don't make themselves I guess!
Roger Smith had a few watchmakers along with him explaining how each watch they had on display was made, what their role was in its creation, and what they love about working for Roger. That's the clincher for your comment here: "it's a potential source of labour/apprentices and gives the industry a more powerful voice when it comes to government help/relief/lobbying etc too." Watchmakers aren't exactly a thriving population in the industry, the BWA to me feels like a strong networking opportunity. Nobody in large scale industries wants to be forever siloed.
There were more than a few collaborations at the show too. Time and Tide teaming up with Studio Underdog. Oracle Time teaming up with Christopher Ward. The Fears jump hour with Christopher Ward previously.
That's the part that interest me as an enthusiast. What are the chats in the green room/lobby/afterparties like? Knowing creatives, I'd bet those rooms are where a lot of the fresh ideas on the industry come from.
It goes to show how much the watch landscape has changed since that Black Bay launch! In hindsight - it seems like an obvious thing to do but at that time vintage remakes/re-imaginings/styling wasn’t the ‘thing’ it is today.
Even the Swiss had a big push in the last couple of years for young watchmakers (if memory serves, FP Journe runs a competition). It does help to have a big organisation behind you.
I think we are living in a ‘collab’ era at the moment - not just in watches but in anything media/fashion related. None of us would get a look in once the Taylor Swift x Christopher Ward collab is released….!
Perhaps panel discussions would be a good suggestions for the BWD going forward. They do happen at W&W, WatchPro Salon, Dubai Watch Week etc
The beauty of ENAMEL dial 👍👍👍👍✅
I always wondered why Bremont was not in the alliance as they bang on building up British watch manufacturing but my supspicion is that the owners are not in good terms with Roger Smith (who is a cofounder of the alliance) and who wrote a very critical open letter back in 2014 on Hodinkee - especially targetting Bremont without naming them… just my completely unfounded thinking :)
Not everyone may want to be collaborative (I don’t know why in this particular instance). I assume it’s because they have ‘snarter’ business model and hope it’s not because they’re ‘petty’
I always wondered why Bremont was not in the alliance as they bang on building up British watch manufacturing but my supspicion is that the owners are not in good terms with Roger Smith (who is a cofounder of the alliance) and who wrote a very critical open letter back in 2014 on Hodinkee - especially targetting Bremont without naming them… just my completely unfounded thinking :)
Ahh that makes sense. Bremont played pretty loose with "British Made" back in the day....