George Martin And The Small Chronograph
Hey Crunchers (and r/watches newcomers)
I have been obsessed this week with the prospect of finding a SMALL CHRONOGRAPH.
My introduction to chronographs came in this era of big chunky tool watches, so when I saw these pictures of Sir George Martin (perhaps the definitive "Fifth Beatle") in his Breitling Top Time 2002 I realized there is a stylish elegance to wearing a chrono in a smaller size.
It's only 36mm x 43mm! Unheard of today.
The only chronograph I own is, ironically, a Top Time homage from Sugess, but it's MUCH bigger (40mm x 51mm)
So what are my options?
Is anyone making smaller (affordable!) chronographs today? I'm okay with homages + microbrands.
Do I have to go vintage? That worries me not only because of the initial cost, but also the inevitable maintenance of such a complicated... complication.
I'm guessing the first suggestion will be the Seiko SBDL085. Which on paper makes sense (38mm, inexpensive, retro panda dial) but I tried it on and it wears quite chunky!
On the other hand the Speedmaster 38 wears more slim - but it's way out of my price range.
What do you folks think? Where are my small wristed vintage elegance addicts at?
Hamilton Intramatic Chrono on the high end and Orient Neo 70s Chrono or Bulova Lunar Pilot on the low end
You and I must be on the same wavelength because I have been obsessing over the Speedmaster 38. I just pulled the trigger on a Red Star Seagull 1963 Panda Chrono as well. Gonna see how it fits as it’s a 38mm as well.
Jomashop has smaller chronos with their ladies area. Apparently
36mm is ladies.
You and I must be on the same wavelength because I have been obsessing over the Speedmaster 38. I just pulled the trigger on a Red Star Seagull 1963 Panda Chrono as well. Gonna see how it fits as it’s a 38mm as well.
Please let me know! Honestly the Speedmaster 38 is cool but I like the design of the Reduced better (and it's cheaper!)
Hamilton Intramatic Chrono on the high end and Orient Neo 70s Chrono or Bulova Lunar Pilot on the low end
Still pretty big, sadly ☹
Jomashop has smaller chronos with their ladies area. Apparently
36mm is ladies.
Interesting! I'll take a look.
Please let me know! Honestly the Speedmaster 38 is cool but I like the design of the Reduced better (and it's cheaper!)
You got it!
Still pretty big, sadly ☹
Tissot PRX Chrono on the high end
Dan Henry 1963 or 1964 on the low end
Nivada Grenchen - Chronomaster ASD and Chronoking at 38mm. Also the Datomaster at 39mm.
Tissot PRX Chrono on the high end
Dan Henry 1963 or 1964 on the low end
Dan Henry is cool I do like that 1964.
Nivada Grenchen - Chronomaster ASD and Chronoking at 38mm. Also the Datomaster at 39mm.
Not aware of these I'll look now.
I have a Hamilton Linwood chronograph that is 38mm. I am not sure if they are readily available now, mine is a few years old. The reference number is H18516731.
I have a Hamilton Linwood chronograph that is 38mm. I am not sure if they are readily available now, mine is a few years old. The reference number is H18516731.
Beautiful! So Space-y.
Dan Henry is cool I do like that 1964.
I have the 1964 panda tricompax. It is a great wearing experience and it’s the only watch I’ve gotten compliments on (and it’s one of my more affordable watches). The only issue with it is the 19mm lug width, which limits strap options. Luckily, Dan Henry sells some pretty nice in house straps.
I think you'd find a lot of interesting things if you specifically search for chronographs with the Dubios Depraz module. Two that immediately come to mind are.
Omega Dynamic Chronograph ref 5290.50 (38mm x 45mm x 12.5mm)
Maen Skymaster (38mm x 47mm x 12.9mm)
You could also go down the Dan Henry route with quartz chronos and you would also get to slim.vintage proportions.
Wow! Gorgeous collection and great tips. I did not know about the Wakmann / Breitling connection, that's a great tip. Also, I've had a couple of Vulcain Crickets but have never looked into their chronos, they look awesome. I will dig deeper.
Thanks for the kind words. Glad it was helpful.
Here is a little post I did on Wakmann...
Let's Talk About Wakmann! | WatchCrunch
The Oris Full Teel Hölstein edition is just 36 mm.. and pretty nice
The Oris Full Teel Hölstein edition is just 36 mm.. and pretty nice
Thanks. A bit (very) pricey for me, though. 🙂
Dan Henry 1964 seems to be the frontrunner right now. Pretty close to the original!
I can vouch for the Dan Henry 1964. It had a cheap leather band, but the watch itself is a good comfortable wear with the 38mm case.
So...firstly love the George Martin photo...awesome! Great Breitling watch as well. I wonder if he used that when he was timing the Beatles in the studio...would love to see a studio shot with him with the chrono...
Vintage...you can definitely find much smaller chronographs both in diameter and height as the vintage chronographs used relatively thin manual chronograph movements. I could provide loads of different options. However, you do need to buy the seller, and quality vintage chronographs are not inexpensive. Anything below $500 is a major gamble purchase. You can find some good deals between $800 - $1,500. $500 - $800 is no-man's land...some great finds and some real stinkers.
Modern...really tough to find anything less than 38mm if you are looking for a mechanical movement because of the size of the Sellita or ETA movements. Sometimes you can find modern reissues using original vintage movements with smaller diameters, but the prices are generally pretty obnoxious and are really for the well-heeled collectors. Your best bet would be the Nivada Grenchen mechanical reissues but they are 38mm x 13.75mm. They did do a quartz reissue of the Datomaster in 36mm x 11mm for $540...but they sold out instantly to existing NG customers. Here's a look...
Here are some vintage references from the collection:
Universal Geneve Moonphase Chronograph (1960s)- 36mm x 13mm - Valjoux 7734 - Paid: $1,470
Universal Geneve Chronograph (1938) - 30.3mm x 10.5mm - UG 281 - Paid: $1,500
Universal Geneve Compur Chronograph (1938) - 32.8mm x 11.5mm - UG 283 - Paid: $2,100
Universal Geneve Compax Chronograph (1980) NOS - 37mm x 13mm - UG 84 - Paid: $1,460
Vulcain Sport Chronograph (1960s) NOS - 37.5mm x 13mm - Valjoux 7733 - Paid: $1,100
Vulcain Silver Panda (1960s) - 37.5mm x 13mm - Valjoux 7733 - Paid: $1,450
But if you really want that Top Time look, then look for vintage Wakmann. The 1960s references are essentially Breitlings as Wakmann imported all the components from Breitling and assembled them in the US to avoid the customs duties.
Here are a few of the real beauties...
Wakmann "Top Time" Chronograph (1960s) NOS - 36mm - Valjoux 7733 - Paid: $1,295
Wakmann Chronograph (1970s) - 37mm - Venus 188 - Paid: $500
Awesome chronos. Love the Universal Genève watches!
I can vouch for the Dan Henry 1964. It had a cheap leather band, but the watch itself is a good comfortable wear with the 38mm case.
Great to hear. Thanks!What a stunner.
Awesome chronos. Love the Universal Genève watches!
Thanks! Great to find another collector who appreciates them.
The Dan Henry looks great, as does your photos of GM!
This is a Pierre Pailin chrono using the seagull manual wind movement. It’s 38mm and I quite like it if you’re looking for a mechanical option that’s pretty affordable. Good luck man!
The Dan Henry looks great, as does your photos of GM!
This is a Pierre Pailin chrono using the seagull manual wind movement. It’s 38mm and I quite like it if you’re looking for a mechanical option that’s pretty affordable. Good luck man!
Very nice option, I was not aware of it. Thanks!
Best of luck, post about the watch you end up getting!
Best of luck, post about the watch you end up getting!
Most certainly will, thanks.
UPDATE:
Just arrived in the mail, feels EXCELLENT.
Thanks to all for the advice, I think this might be the one. 🙂
UPDATE:
Just arrived in the mail, feels EXCELLENT.
Thanks to all for the advice, I think this might be the one. 🙂
cc: @Catskinner @SpecKTator @ph0real Good call, folks!
cc: @Catskinner @SpecKTator @ph0real Good call, folks!
Yes DH is an excellent choice. Enjoy the new pickup. I might have to rock mine tomorrow just to celebrate this occasion
Enjoy your new chrono @88MilesPerHour !