Stealth wealth - should a watch's looks match its price?

First question: which of these 4 GS models do you think is the most expensive? I won't give it away, you'll just have to use your Google skills. But you might be surprised. Even more surprising, the spread between them is between $4k and $40k. I've been looking at Grand Seiko lately as a point of interest (I'm nowhere near ready with funds to buy one). One thing I really admire about GS is their ability to express modesty and a high degree of craftsmanship at the same time. I love the idea of having something that is precious but only known to those that can appreciate it. Some may think that snobby, but it's for the opposite reasons for me. It's not that I want to feel exclusive or special, I just want to have something that doesn't attract unwanted attention. I know many people have expressed their apprehension for wearing a Rolex in public for example. I've seen some here recommended they wear a GS instead. Unfortunate, not feeling comfortable wearing a watch you love, but the crown does indeed wear heavy on the wrist in this case. On the other hand, I've met others that don't want to spend so much money on a GS because they look too "plain". I mean even the simplest three hand Patek looks fancier than the $40k GS on this list. Some might even argue my Tissot PRX looks fancier than any of these. Granted, 3 hand dress watches might be a bad example since they always tend to be simpler designs. But that said, do you think an expensive watch should look its part? Inexpensive watches that look expensive are always lauded, but expensive watches that fly under the radar are also very interesting IMO.
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No idea which of those is the most expensive, which is how it should be when a watch has class. Flashy watches like this tacky, nouveau riche [male organ] extension are only good for showing off how much money you have: https://youtu.be/M5nBNkY6r9I

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I think there are a lot of factors that contribute to making a watch appear expensive, and other things that largely just contribute to the price. Whether one believes price should be reflected in the looks is pretty subjective.

Personally (not that I’ve ever had the opportunity to experience super expensive watches myself), I’d pay for unique and aesthetically pleasing design and high quality finishing over the materials used or even the ingenuity of the movement or complications.

A Vacheron Constantin 222…no thanks, I’ll pass. A Moser Vantablack…yes please! I imagine to most people comparing those two, they’d guess the 222 is the pricier watch of the two just because of the color.

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Psssttt...

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Listen, seriously, don't you think it's time you finally came down to San Diego for some cocktails and tried some GS on-wrist?

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literallyabowlofpetunias

No idea which of those is the most expensive, which is how it should be when a watch has class. Flashy watches like this tacky, nouveau riche [male organ] extension are only good for showing off how much money you have: https://youtu.be/M5nBNkY6r9I

I think Kevin has only cried twice in his life, once with the bitcoin crash, once with this watch.

tonmed

I think Kevin has only cried twice in his life, once with the bitcoin crash, once with this watch.

👏👏👏

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It’s C.

Cause platinum.

B is the most inexpensive and the only manual wind. They are all beautiful in their simplicity. I’d pick A, for the spring drive and the dial color and not being $60k. 😂

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chronoslice

I think there are a lot of factors that contribute to making a watch appear expensive, and other things that largely just contribute to the price. Whether one believes price should be reflected in the looks is pretty subjective.

Personally (not that I’ve ever had the opportunity to experience super expensive watches myself), I’d pay for unique and aesthetically pleasing design and high quality finishing over the materials used or even the ingenuity of the movement or complications.

A Vacheron Constantin 222…no thanks, I’ll pass. A Moser Vantablack…yes please! I imagine to most people comparing those two, they’d guess the 222 is the pricier watch of the two just because of the color.

Indeed, a very subjective matter. I feel GS offers both minimalist design and a high-tech movement, not just one or the other. That is what makes them special.

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Mr.Dee.Bater

Psssttt...

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Listen, seriously, don't you think it's time you finally came down to San Diego for some cocktails and tried some GS on-wrist?

Believe me, when I am ready to get a GS you will be the FIRST to know.

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tonmed

Indeed, a very subjective matter. I feel GS offers both minimalist design and a high-tech movement, not just one or the other. That is what makes them special.

Totally agree…it’s probably the brand I would consider as my realistic grail. Their entire catalog is filled with gorgeous references that greatly appeal to me.

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I have the SBGW231 and love everything about it. Some might say it is plain but in person it is so good looking. I'd love a spring drive next or GS quartz GMT.

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Quality should match the price. Looks are subjective.

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jason_recliner

Quality should match the price. Looks are subjective.

Interesting, I think in watch world both can be subjective. Mainly because defining quality objectively has its limits with specs, so some people define quality subjectively as well.

Is a Rolex objectively worth more than an Omega because of superior quality? Or are we paying a premium for the logo?

What about materials? Do gold and platinum watches fluctuate in price as the precious metals market values go up and down?

I guess my point is I think people do sometimes pay moreso for looks than quality alone and vice versa. The higher the cost the higher the expectations on one or the other.

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tonmed

Interesting, I think in watch world both can be subjective. Mainly because defining quality objectively has its limits with specs, so some people define quality subjectively as well.

Is a Rolex objectively worth more than an Omega because of superior quality? Or are we paying a premium for the logo?

What about materials? Do gold and platinum watches fluctuate in price as the precious metals market values go up and down?

I guess my point is I think people do sometimes pay moreso for looks than quality alone and vice versa. The higher the cost the higher the expectations on one or the other.

My rule of thumb re: quality is how easily can something be faked well? It seems easy to fake Omegas and Rolexes.

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jason_recliner

My rule of thumb re: quality is how easily can something be faked well? It seems easy to fake Omegas and Rolexes.

There's the how easy can it be faked and then there is the is it worth faking. Try faking the spring drive smooth sweep... then again, why bother faking a GS?

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jason_recliner

My rule of thumb re: quality is how easily can something be faked well? It seems easy to fake Omegas and Rolexes.

Again, I would retort with: How worthwhile is it to fake something?

Rolex is probably the #1 luxury watch brand that is pirated, but only because it's also the #1 luxury watch brand period.

When something is popular people will immitate it to get in on the action is my point. Hence homages and fakes.

My definition of quality is how well does something function and how long will it last. Will a $10k watch function and last longer than a $5k watch under the same conditions? Not if we look at what's out there.

So again, I feel pricing is based on both measurable and perceived value. Not only one or the other.

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tonmed

Again, I would retort with: How worthwhile is it to fake something?

Rolex is probably the #1 luxury watch brand that is pirated, but only because it's also the #1 luxury watch brand period.

When something is popular people will immitate it to get in on the action is my point. Hence homages and fakes.

My definition of quality is how well does something function and how long will it last. Will a $10k watch function and last longer than a $5k watch under the same conditions? Not if we look at what's out there.

So again, I feel pricing is based on both measurable and perceived value. Not only one or the other.

Yeah, I just don't want to pay stupid exorbitant prices for something that costs not much to make and won't make me any money (I'm not interested in speculating on bauble bubbles, if I'm going to spend a lot it needs to make weekly/monthly returns, not only when I sell).

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jason_recliner

Yeah, I just don't want to pay stupid exorbitant prices for something that costs not much to make and won't make me any money (I'm not interested in speculating on bauble bubbles, if I'm going to spend a lot it needs to make weekly/monthly returns, not only when I sell).

Im definitely not the target demographic for investment watch purchases. I only buy what I like and for no other reason.

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WatchMetrics

There's the how easy can it be faked and then there is the is it worth faking. Try faking the spring drive smooth sweep... then again, why bother faking a GS?

If there is a will, it will find a way. Citizen makes a battery powered quartz movement with smooth sweeping seconds:

https://calibercorner.com/bulova-caliber-p102/

I'm sure a clever person can source these movements. You can find them in Bulova Precicionists as well. Fakes only need to be close enough to fool many, not everyone.

But to your point...is it worth the effort? Only if GS starts selling at the same rate as a Rolex.

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jason_recliner

Hard to fake a GS because of the hands and indices.

This. Unless our faker had a zaratsu cutting/polishing machines stashed somewhere in their factory good luck trying to get the same level of machining.

IIRC the story was zaratsu isn't even a proper japanese name, just a Japanese-fied name for some custom Swiss machines they bought?

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Yep, was already a thing. Sorry, can't be bothered finding the details.

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Not sure if the hand sides are zaratsu polished but I imagine that would be harder than polishing a case side. Can you imagine?

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masterpiece collection

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I like a lot of the GS range but the there is something about this brand that steers me away from it and that's the fear that I'll turn into a "GS Owner".

A GS Owner has had the revelation that the Swiss watch industry is peddling over priced, inferior quality, poorly finished, badly distributed watches and following this epiphany they have proudly purged their collection of these Swiss trinkets. A GS Owner has had a peek behind the curtain and revealed to these special few was the truth that when they buy a GS they are transcending mere watch buyers, those poor deluded fools, they have become consumers of unparalleled artistry and craftsmanship. This Fellowship have one goal and one goal only, to gently and politely mock other people's watches on watch forums.

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Wiltshire

I like a lot of the GS range but the there is something about this brand that steers me away from it and that's the fear that I'll turn into a "GS Owner".

A GS Owner has had the revelation that the Swiss watch industry is peddling over priced, inferior quality, poorly finished, badly distributed watches and following this epiphany they have proudly purged their collection of these Swiss trinkets. A GS Owner has had a peek behind the curtain and revealed to these special few was the truth that when they buy a GS they are transcending mere watch buyers, those poor deluded fools, they have become consumers of unparalleled artistry and craftsmanship. This Fellowship have one goal and one goal only, to gently and politely mock other people's watches on watch forums.

I think all watch brand loyalists form fellowships sometimes. But this may be generalizing watch enthusiasts.

Certainly every brand gets it's criticisms regardless of where you sit. Maybe some people hold on too strongly to an identity at times, but regardless, it's all just perception.

When you get into these price ranges debating on which brand is better is like arguing over which cashmere sweater is the nicest. These are all frivolous items some are lucky to be able to own. That said, I think for any watch, at any price, if you like it, wear it.

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tonmed

If there is a will, it will find a way. Citizen makes a battery powered quartz movement with smooth sweeping seconds:

https://calibercorner.com/bulova-caliber-p102/

I'm sure a clever person can source these movements. You can find them in Bulova Precicionists as well. Fakes only need to be close enough to fool many, not everyone.

But to your point...is it worth the effort? Only if GS starts selling at the same rate as a Rolex.

China counterfeits basic Seiko Alpinist models so it seems it need not be pricey to make it worthwhile.

A knockoff has no design cost and essentially slave labour. So incredibly easy to undercut any regular manufacturer even for ‘cheaper’ models

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Kudos on a thoughtful and interesting thread my friend. It’s brought out slightly more troll-y responses than a typical thread here in our space but it’s still a great thought experiment you proposed 👍

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The classiest looking is around $10K AUD the Omiwatari , I think the most expensive one is the ceramic white face watch ? All nice watches

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Mr.Dee.Bater

Psssttt...

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Listen, seriously, don't you think it's time you finally came down to San Diego for some cocktails and tried some GS on-wrist?

Hey man, I heard you like cocktails and watches, so we put a cocktail in your watch.

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ScottN

I have the SBGW231 and love everything about it. Some might say it is plain but in person it is so good looking. I'd love a spring drive next or GS quartz GMT.

The SBGW 231 is a masterclass in simple design. If it was found at 10 mm or less it would rival those costing four or five times more. Even given its thickness now, in design, in finishing, the watch is already outstanding - artists say that simplicity done correctly is sophistication. I agree, plain but elegant isn't easy, yet the SBGW 231 does it so well

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jason_recliner

Hard to fake a GS because of the hands and indices.

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Some Grand Seiko watches from AliExpress, priced between £19.01 and £213.30.