Brands that punch above their weight in 2023
Many of us have probably had this experience: You show two seemingly different (in our mind, strikingly different!) watches to a non-enthusiast, and they respond, "but those look the same!" And though it may be difficult to admit, they have a point? The sheer number of new releases and the tendency to imitate popular designs mean that things eventually blur together. Being different is cool but also hard.
With that in mind, and with two 2023 Windup Watch Fairs and the spring/summer releases behind us, which (micro-) brands have impressed as offering something exceptional... something that stands out above the rest and punches above its weight?
Of course "exceptional" can mean many things: fit & finish; price point; original design language; mesmerizing dials; superior bracelets; in-house parts manufacturing; brand ethos; etc. So pick the yard stick you want to measure with! But I'd love to see fellow Crunchers make an argument for their current darling! 😏
Christopher Ward has been really impressing me lately. The Bel Canto, the Twelve, the Dune watches, they’ve been knocking it out of the park imo.
AnOrdain has been making unreal porcelain dials. They’re beautiful. So beautiful you can’t get your hands on them. Check them out.
From a major brand, I believe Longines is starting to be that entry level luxury alternative. Their heritage collection, Spirit collection, and Master collection are putting out enticing offerings and the Conquest line continues to be a good value proposition.
From the Microbrands, Christopher Ward is a great addition as mentioned above.
Monta is putting out a fit and finish product that would go for double from a major brand.
Farer designs (colors) are incredibly original and are doing for all Watch types what StudioUnderdog is doing for the bicompax Chrono.
Lorier and Baltic are doing a great job of producing original designs that capture the vintage heritage of our favorite Watch brands right now.
I’d like to nominate Nomos for its adherence to a design language, quality Germanic feel, and in house movement.
If you allow me to set the yardstick thusly: 1 - suitability to purpose, 2 - quality materials & build, then I think Islander is absolutely setting the standard for VALUE. Value = Utility / Price. Marc's releasing watches in numerous categories, all of which are built robustly enough to be worn every day, at amazing prices.
If I think of the 2 or 3 use cases I have for needing a watch on my wrist, and allowing that I prefer to wear automatics for purely romanticized reasons, I could buy all 3 as Islanders, and be completely happy.
Every other penny I've spent in my collection has been spent on brand history, specific style, an attachment to history, ego, hype, etc.
So when I look at this through a wide lens, I think Islander is killing it.
Lots of new and smaller brands are making amazing watches right now. But if my yardstick is value as defined above, I'm impressed with what Marc is doing.
I have to second CW. While I think the Bel Canto is moronic, that’s just because I think it’s moronic to make watches where time telling is secondary. I’m really impressed they made that stupid thing. And as much as I’m tired of integrated bracelets and think they’re late to the party, the Twelve looks legit. Same with the bronze dune, I think it looks great. So far they’re doing a great job of earning a spot upmarket.
Christopher Ward has been really impressing me lately. The Bel Canto, the Twelve, the Dune watches, they’ve been knocking it out of the park imo.
The Bel Canto is a remarkable piece of watchmaking at that price!
AnOrdain has been making unreal porcelain dials. They’re beautiful. So beautiful you can’t get your hands on them. Check them out.
Fully agree! I'm on their waitlist, but it's still several years long. I saw the fumé dials at Windup SF and... wow!
I’d like to nominate Nomos for its adherence to a design language, quality Germanic feel, and in house movement.
Hard to find a better overall package under $2000 than a manual Tangente!
Fully agree! I'm on their waitlist, but it's still several years long. I saw the fumé dials at Windup SF and... wow!
With that wait list. You might be able to get a Rolex first. 😂
Monta
Christopher Ward
Brew
Seagull and all of its subsibrands probably don’t count as a micro brand since they supply a fifth of the world mechanical movements, but they certainly punch above their weight.
I just received a San Martin bronze diver today, and as many before me on WC have said, the overall quality is exceptionally good for their price point.
Many already said…Monta is my $ for $ champ. Farer, Direnzo (still up and coming), and Lorier would cost 2X more if made by a mainstream brand.
Many already said…Monta is my $ for $ champ. Farer, Direnzo (still up and coming), and Lorier would cost 2X more if made by a mainstream brand.
Monta hits it out of the park every time!
From a major brand, I believe Longines is starting to be that entry level luxury alternative. Their heritage collection, Spirit collection, and Master collection are putting out enticing offerings and the Conquest line continues to be a good value proposition.
Lots of love for Longines here! I should pay closer attention to their catalogue...
But surely there are some micro brands that burst onto the scene (esp. the Kickstarter scene?) with a strong narrative and fancy rendered pictures, only to fizzle when they can't deliver good value or to settle for relatively standard/inoffensive/boring/mediocre watches or for pieces that seem somewhat gimmicky.
And then there are some brands that build a genuine reputation for doing things better or differently, or for delivering great value. Brew, Baltic, or Monta rightly get many mentions for that reason, IMHO.
Yes, it is a double edged sword. I personally never buy from Kickstarters... You just never know what you are going to get and it's just hype. The watches you mentioned are great examples and I personally also like Zelos, Lorier, and Vaer.
Formex for me is a brand that does alot correct.
What do you like about Formex watches? I've seen them in person once but never looked closely.
Baltic seems to be on fire at the moment. Got my MR01 recently so no longer a Baltic virgin (so to speak)
Baltic is one of those brands that really makes me question the value-add of other brands. The Aquascaphe seems like a fantastic dive watch by almost any standard, and it's significantly less expensive (I hesitate to call a $600 watch "cheap"...) than some of its lauded peers.
My watch budget isn't extensive to say the least so miy collections is mostly filled with the upper low-tier if I can call them that.
Honestly I think there are so many brands punching above their weight right now that a tier system can't quantitatively be accurate. Baltic, Nodus, Formex as younger brands are quite confidently leading the horology creation in my opinion, ofc the big 3 have their heavy hitters but across the board, those 3 in my eyes have delivered the quality. With out of the box thinking and designs, while high horology brands have been "sticking with what works."
Citizen has been punching above it's weight class for decades, quite frankly the most underrated watchmakers in my eyes.
Baltic is one of those brands that really makes me question the value-add of other brands. The Aquascaphe seems like a fantastic dive watch by almost any standard, and it's significantly less expensive (I hesitate to call a $600 watch "cheap"...) than some of its lauded peers.
My aquascaphe gets considerably more wrist time than it should but it's so versatile I can't help but wear it nearly all the time.
Tudor? For now at least 🤔
Tudor? For now at least 🤔
to be honest I've never been particularly interested in Tudor, but the nearly ubiquitous love for the Black Bay and the Pelagos has me worried that I'm simply on the wrong side of history 😂 😧
Rolex. They should probably cost even more second hand. Rolex > Lange any day of the week
Parmigiani Fleurier is my submission for one of the most underrated watch brands that are often overlooked by many watch enthusiasts. However, there are several compelling reasons why it deserves greater recognition:
Artistry and Craftsmanship: Parmigiani Fleurier stands out for its exceptional craftsmanship and dedication to the art of watchmaking. The brand has its own watchmaking center in Switzerland, where highly skilled artisans meticulously design and assemble each timepiece. Their expertise extends to various horological disciplines, including movement development, dial making, and case finishing, resulting in watches of outstanding quality and attention to detail.
Parmigiani Fleurier takes great pride in its vertically integrated approach to movement production, which involves a meticulous and comprehensive process. Here is an overview of the Parmigiani Fleurier movement production process:
Research and Development: The journey begins with extensive research and development. Parmigiani Fleurier's team of engineers, watchmakers, and designers work together to conceive new movement ideas, refine existing calibers, or create entirely new ones. This phase involves conceptualization, technical analysis, and prototyping.
Design and Engineering: Once the concept is finalized, the design and engineering phase begins. Highly skilled specialists create detailed technical drawings and specifications, ensuring that every component is precisely designed to meet the desired performance, functionality, and aesthetics. Great attention is paid to factors such as movement architecture, gear train layout, complications, and the integration of various components.
Component Manufacturing: Parmigiani Fleurier possesses its own manufacturing facilities, allowing for the in-house production of many movement components. Highly specialized equipment, operated by skilled artisans, is used to create components such as bridges, plates, wheels, screws, levers, and springs. Advanced technologies, including CNC machining and wire erosion, are employed to ensure accuracy and consistency in the production process.
Decoration and Finishing: Parmigiani Fleurier places great emphasis on the decoration and finishing of its movements. Skilled artisans meticulously decorate components by hand, using techniques such as Côtes de Genève (Geneva stripes), perlage (circular graining), chamfering, and polishing. The aim is to create a visually appealing and harmonious movement that showcases the brand's commitment to haute horlogerie.
Assembly and Regulation: Once all the components are manufactured and decorated, they are meticulously assembled by highly skilled watchmakers. Each movement is carefully fitted, adjusted, and regulated to ensure optimal performance and precision. This includes fine-tuning the balance wheel, adjusting the escapement, and testing the movement in various positions and conditions to meet the strict quality standards set by Parmigiani Fleurier.
Quality Control: Before a movement is deemed ready for use in a Parmigiani Fleurier watch, it undergoes rigorous quality control measures. Each movement is thoroughly tested, with particular attention to its accuracy, power reserve, functionality of complications (if present), and overall reliability. Only movements that meet the brand's stringent criteria are deemed worthy of the Parmigiani Fleurier name.
By maintaining control over the entire movement production process, Parmigiani Fleurier ensures the highest level of quality, craftsmanship, and exclusivity in its timepieces. This vertically integrated approach allows the brand to create unique and technically impressive movements that showcase their commitment to the art of watchmaking.
Design Aesthetics: Parmigiani Fleurier watches possess a distinct design language that blends elegance with modernity. They incorporate unique case shapes, intricate dial designs, and exquisite detailing. The brand's approach to design is often characterized by sophistication and a harmonious balance between tradition and contemporary elements. These artistic and distinctive aesthetics set Parmigiani Fleurier apart from more mainstream brands.
Heritage and Independence: Although relatively young compared to some established watchmakers, Parmigiani Fleurier embraces its independence and draws inspiration from traditional watchmaking heritage.
The brand's founder, Michel Parmigiani, is a renowned watchmaker and restorer, deeply rooted in the traditions of horology. This connection to horological history, combined with their independent status, allows Parmigiani Fleurier to take creative risks and produce timepieces with a unique character. Before starting his own company, Michel Parmigiani had a distinguished career as a watchmaker and restorer. He gained recognition and expertise in the field of horology through his remarkable skills and passion for preserving and restoring historical timepieces.
Here are some notable aspects of Michel Parmigiani's journey before founding Parmigiani Fleurier:
Apprenticeship and Education: Michel Parmigiani began his journey by serving an apprenticeship in watchmaking in his hometown of Couvet, Switzerland. He honed his skills under the guidance of master watchmakers, gaining a solid foundation in the art and technicalities of horology. He later pursued further education in microtechnology at the University of Neuchâtel.
Restoration of Historical Timepieces: Michel Parmigiani developed a profound interest in the restoration of antique and historically significant timepieces. His talent for watchmaking, combined with a deep understanding of historical movements, materials, and techniques, made him highly sought after as a restorer. Parmigiani worked on timepieces housed in renowned museums, private collections, and even restored valuable pieces for Patek Philippe.
Foundation of Parmigiani Mesure et Art du Temps: In 1976, Michel Parmigiani founded his own watch restoration workshop called Parmigiani Mesure et Art du Temps. The workshop specialized in restoring and conserving precious horological treasures, working on an array of intricate timepieces from different eras and complexities.
Collaboration with Sandoz Family: In the 1990s, Michel Parmigiani's reputation and expertise caught the attention of the Sandoz Family Foundation. The foundation shared his passion for horology and the preservation of traditional craftsmanship. Their collaboration led to the establishment of Parmigiani Fleurier in 1996, with the vision of creating exceptional watches that reflect the highest standards of artistry and watchmaking expertise.
Limited Production and Rarity: Parmigiani Fleurier maintains a low production volume compared to many other luxury brands, resulting in limited availability. This exclusivity contributes to the watches' appeal among collectors and individuals seeking a more discreet and distinctive timepiece. Owning a Parmigiani Fleurier watch often represents a more exclusive and personal statement, away from the mainstream.
By leveraging his extensive experience in watchmaking and restoration, Michel Parmigiani brought a deep understanding of historical horology to Parmigiani Fleurier. His expertise, combined with the support of the Sandoz Family Foundation, laid the foundation for the brand's commitment to excellence, craftsmanship, and innovation.
In summary, Parmigiani Fleurier's underrated status can be attributed to factors such as its focus on craftsmanship, in-house movements, unique design aesthetics, independent heritage, and limited production. For those who appreciate the artistry, technical excellence, and individuality that this brand offers, Parmigiani Fleurier represents a hidden gem within the watch industry.
I looked at everything at Windup Chicago. I spent quality time at almost every booth. The three that stand out to me are Monta, Farer and Minase. Minase probably has the highest quality but the price point justifies it, so I won’t say they punch above their weight. But Monta and Farer certainly do. I own a Monta and I’d definitely get a Farer, but few other micros strike a chord with me like these two do.
I haven’t seen a Minase watch up close, but I’m fascinated by them. I’d like to own a Seven Windows one day.
What do you like about Formex watches? I've seen them in person once but never looked closely.
The quality is one thing but the certified by the COSC is such a rare thing for a watches at this pricepoint, easy to adjust to fit your wrist with the micro adjustments.
I got the essence 39 Coffee dial 😉
My belief is that this is a watch lover's fallacy. The way I look at it, is that at all prices, watches are expensive, some just deliver while some don't. Microbrands tend to offer more thus punching above their weight because you also get the risk of them not existing in 20 years time thus you may not be able to service/repair your watch. I don't believe there exists a watch company of any sort that does not want you to think in this way cause this how CW and A Lange und Söhne sell watches. You have to have a sense of value of punching above their respective grade to buy the watch. All in all, and in a playful spirit, I am also a believer the Longines makes a really nice watch at their price point.
One word cestrian nh35 movement, sapphire Chrystal solid links ,
End links and ceramic bezel.£135
I am loving SWC. Their divers and field watches are amazing. Lots of value for your money for a Swiss microbrand.