What do you look for in a microbrand?

As some of you know, I’m fairly new to the watch world. I have long since admired from afar, but in recent years I have really decided to dive deeper.

My most recent pick-up is this Strat-o-timer GMT from Jack Mason, a brand local to me. I really bought it for two distinct reasons, but I have been so blown away by the level of finish on this watch that it’s made me start to think a little bit deeper.

The first of those reasons is that I was looking to elevate my collection from the watches I started my journey with — in both style and feel/quality. As I’ve learned more about what I like, and how I like to wear what I like, I have decided that there is room for some more sophistication within my collection.

The second reason was to support a local company that I truly believe in. I’ve had the pleasure of meeting some of the guys behind the brand and it has left a long-lasting impression on me. This watch seemed to be a symbol for them stepping into the next level of the brand as they move forward. The way they talked about this watch made it seem as if they were really trying to grow into a new era and that aligned with my own mission for my personal collection. That right there is what sold me. I’m always a fan of growth.

This purchase has made me think a little deeper about what I’m actually looking for when finding my next watch. There’s practically an unlimited amount of choice and almost always a comparable watch. So, what am I really looking for? I think I’m looking for what the watch represents — what it represents to me, but also what it represents for the brand.

What do you generally look for in a microbrand? What are the reasons you choose this watch versus that watch?

p.s. Been absolutely loving this watch. Maybe I’ll write up a real review sometime soon.

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Quality (Design and reliability) and customer service. Lots of micros out there but only a few have excelled to the point that they really shouldn't be considered micros anymore. Reputation means everything when building a brand from scratch.

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It’s great if you can speak to the brand owners failing that I’ve got a few youtubers and watch blogs I trust when researching a brand, and as a final step I’ll check here on WC what the general feeling is on a brand. If I can’t find it anywhere with the watch tubers and bloggers I trust and I don’t get positive feedback here I’ll probably give the brand a miss.

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I look for value. A microbrand is such because they have yet to ascend to the level of tried-and-true brands. They have to have a good product at a fair price, because without that, nothing else matters. I couldn't care less for their fancy name or logo, the bullsh*t backstory they try to tell to pump up the prestige of the brand, etc. I feel like microbrands try to skate by on the fact they are small companies and portray themselves as a mom-and-pop, hand-made piece of art. Give me good specs and a decent price-- all the other fluff means nothing.

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I recently picked the Zelos Mako Frost GMT to slake my need for a Miyota 9075 powered piece. I wanted a more inexpensive traveler's GMT than my Tudor...one that I wouldn't have to worry about when taking on vacations. I was looking for good lume, at least 200M WR and the Miyota 9075, along with a date, which would thereby meet all of my needs on vacation.

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Zelos came to the forefront for several reasons -- first and foremost, they have built a great reputation over time for the quality of their product and their customer service. They've now been around for quite a while, and don't seem to be disappearing into the night. Having piece of mind about the watch is an additional but undeniable perk. Their pieces are sought after and generally not only retain, but actually tend to increase their value over time, something which few other brands can claim.

Second, their value proposition was unbeatable, coming in at just about half that of Jack Mason's admittedly beautiful offering. Third, their specs were some of the best in the segment -- 300M WR, ceramic bezel, boxed and domed sapphire crystal, 40mm case size, plenty of lume and a clasp with on the fly adjustment. Since the Zelos met all of my needs, I pulled the trigger on it.

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SpecKTator

Quality (Design and reliability) and customer service. Lots of micros out there but only a few have excelled to the point that they really shouldn't be considered micros anymore. Reputation means everything when building a brand from scratch.

Definitely agree with you on the visual design and reputation

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Matt84

It’s great if you can speak to the brand owners failing that I’ve got a few youtubers and watch blogs I trust when researching a brand, and as a final step I’ll check here on WC what the general feeling is on a brand. If I can’t find it anywhere with the watch tubers and bloggers I trust and I don’t get positive feedback here I’ll probably give the brand a miss.

Sounds like you’ve got a pretty good system for avoiding disappointment

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More options for us ladies. I feel that most microbrands are ignoring us

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Iluvhomages

I look for value. A microbrand is such because they have yet to ascend to the level of tried-and-true brands. They have to have a good product at a fair price, because without that, nothing else matters. I couldn't care less for their fancy name or logo, the bullsh*t backstory they try to tell to pump up the prestige of the brand, etc. I feel like microbrands try to skate by on the fact they are small companies and portray themselves as a mom-and-pop, hand-made piece of art. Give me good specs and a decent price-- all the other fluff means nothing.

What do you think takes a microbrand to the next level of tried and true?

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JBird7986

I recently picked the Zelos Mako Frost GMT to slake my need for a Miyota 9075 powered piece. I wanted a more inexpensive traveler's GMT than my Tudor...one that I wouldn't have to worry about when taking on vacations. I was looking for good lume, at least 200M WR and the Miyota 9075, along with a date, which would thereby meet all of my needs on vacation.

Image

Zelos came to the forefront for several reasons -- first and foremost, they have built a great reputation over time for the quality of their product and their customer service. They've now been around for quite a while, and don't seem to be disappearing into the night. Having piece of mind about the watch is an additional but undeniable perk. Their pieces are sought after and generally not only retain, but actually tend to increase their value over time, something which few other brands can claim.

Second, their value proposition was unbeatable, coming in at just about half that of Jack Mason's admittedly beautiful offering. Third, their specs were some of the best in the segment -- 300M WR, ceramic bezel, boxed and domed sapphire crystal, 40mm case size, plenty of lume and a clasp with on the fly adjustment. Since the Zelos met all of my needs, I pulled the trigger on it.

Nice! How are you liking it? Taken it on any trips yet? I’m loving the movement so far.

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Well said by all of those above. I am looking for something unique and original at a good price point / value proposition. A different story from all the usual suspects. I picked up a Wolbrook Skin Diver not long ago that had a lot of elements I have seen before, but with a flavor all it's own. The watch design and construction stands on its own. I really enjoy many of the microbrands. Amazing what global supply chain is doing......also just snagged a NTH Barracuda.

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Starduck7

More options for us ladies. I feel that most microbrands are ignoring us

Unfortunately that does seem to be true. I’d love to see that offering expand as well!

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Frijole

Well said by all of those above. I am looking for something unique and original at a good price point / value proposition. A different story from all the usual suspects. I picked up a Wolbrook Skin Diver not long ago that had a lot of elements I have seen before, but with a flavor all it's own. The watch design and construction stands on its own. I really enjoy many of the microbrands. Amazing what global supply chain is doing......also just snagged a NTH Barracuda.

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It’s always refreshing to find something that feels unlike anything else! That’s a good looking watch right there

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garythegreat

Nice! How are you liking it? Taken it on any trips yet? I’m loving the movement so far.

I'm #1wcing with it, so I'd say I'm liking it pretty well so far! I just got it in on the 8th, so no trips yet. Movement is good so far, seems to be running about +6/+8 seconds a day.

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JBird7986

I'm #1wcing with it, so I'd say I'm liking it pretty well so far! I just got it in on the 8th, so no trips yet. Movement is good so far, seems to be running about +6/+8 seconds a day.

That's great! I'll look forward to hearing about it's travels in the future

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Originality, finish, and value for money. microbrands and independents are the best for this kind of stuff in my opinion. I don't have a lot of high-end watches, but when I look for them, I keep getting drawn away by micros that offer the same kind of thing for much less cost. Two of the watches I wear most are micros, a Zelos Mako V3 Titanium Frost and a Christopher Ward C65 Trident GMT with the Pepsi bezel. Picked them both up second hand since you can't buy either brand new anymore, and the total cost for both was about half the cost of a Tudor Black Bay 58.

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These brands can't compete on being in-house... or being heritage etc.

In brand-marketing we talk about differentiation and leaning in. Lorier has done this spectacularly by having a singular vision of design but their connection with their customers is what sets them apart. During one of many quick and personal responses to you (there's only two founders who run the whole thing!) via email or Instagram you realize... you will NEVER NEVER NEVER get this from any major brand and it is truly special! That is leaning into your differentiator!

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marc.os

These brands can't compete on being in-house... or being heritage etc.

In brand-marketing we talk about differentiation and leaning in. Lorier has done this spectacularly by having a singular vision of design but their connection with their customers is what sets them apart. During one of many quick and personal responses to you (there's only two founders who run the whole thing!) via email or Instagram you realize... you will NEVER NEVER NEVER get this from any major brand and it is truly special! That is leaning into your differentiator!

I ask this in all seriousness... when you're out there, in the world, wearing your watch... do you ever look down and think, "Gosh, I had a nice email about this watch?" or conversely, "Those bastards at Seiko, they never wrote to me to say thank you for buying this..."? Just ascertaining how big a deal that really is?

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When exploring microbrands, I usually pay attention to a few key aspects. First, we want to upgrade our collection in terms of style and quality. The more I delve into the world of watches, the more my taste evolves and I like watches with a certain degree of sophistication. 

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What am I looking for in microbrands? Well the answer is: Everything you won't find with a major brand.

If you are looking for interesting designs, unusual set of features, use of uncommon materials or a fair price, well you are not going to find these with the major brand's offerings.

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Unique design, value for the money and a micro adjustable bracelet.

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Since it's a microbrand, I look for the smallest watch possible:

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marc.os

These brands can't compete on being in-house... or being heritage etc.

In brand-marketing we talk about differentiation and leaning in. Lorier has done this spectacularly by having a singular vision of design but their connection with their customers is what sets them apart. During one of many quick and personal responses to you (there's only two founders who run the whole thing!) via email or Instagram you realize... you will NEVER NEVER NEVER get this from any major brand and it is truly special! That is leaning into your differentiator!

I proudly have a Lorier in my collection for that exact reason.

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asifkhan

When exploring microbrands, I usually pay attention to a few key aspects. First, we want to upgrade our collection in terms of style and quality. The more I delve into the world of watches, the more my taste evolves and I like watches with a certain degree of sophistication. 

Sounds like we're generally looking for the same things

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edjmiller

Unique design, value for the money and a micro adjustable bracelet.

Micro adjust bracelets are the way

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Quality, designs that speak to me, and an approach to watchmaking that is genuine…

I appreciate even those micro brands that homage the heavy hitters and are honest about it. Dan Henry comes readily to mind, in his push to democratize designs that are simply unattainable for 99% of people.

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complication

I ask this in all seriousness... when you're out there, in the world, wearing your watch... do you ever look down and think, "Gosh, I had a nice email about this watch?" or conversely, "Those bastards at Seiko, they never wrote to me to say thank you for buying this..."? Just ascertaining how big a deal that really is?

I answer in all seriousness as well… I really do look down at my watch and love that I have gotten thorough answers to nerdy questions from the designers and sellers of these watches. Now there has to be a baseline admiration and love for the watch first… I couldn’t just rely on personal connection. But I am truly reminded of personal connection when I look at my watch.

I had a question via Insta about my crystal appearing to be on a slight diagonal (I’m glad you brought up Seiko… I love mine but QC is something you “learn to live with” or… get constantly annoyed with). Lauren remembered my email address and emailed me asking me for pictures. I sent way too many pics at different angles and she gave me precise instructions for sending it to Grand Central in NY. It was sent, repaired and sent back to me free of charge.

When I sent other messages asking for specifics about them moving to Miyota from Soprod for the next iteration of their GMT she responded with spec changes, production dates that they were hoping to hit and then got into the “why” and revealed there may be a better price for the watch later this year…

Now maybe since I work in branding this type of differentiation means a lot to me… but I do think it’s something that helps brands like this stand apart.

I’m not saying I like the watch more than Seiko, Tudor, Sinn, Hamilton, Zodiac etc. But I also know that I can connect with this brand in this way and it adds value to me. I tend to be a “believer” in brands.

Bonus point I was born in New York City…

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marc.os

I answer in all seriousness as well… I really do look down at my watch and love that I have gotten thorough answers to nerdy questions from the designers and sellers of these watches. Now there has to be a baseline admiration and love for the watch first… I couldn’t just rely on personal connection. But I am truly reminded of personal connection when I look at my watch.

I had a question via Insta about my crystal appearing to be on a slight diagonal (I’m glad you brought up Seiko… I love mine but QC is something you “learn to live with” or… get constantly annoyed with). Lauren remembered my email address and emailed me asking me for pictures. I sent way too many pics at different angles and she gave me precise instructions for sending it to Grand Central in NY. It was sent, repaired and sent back to me free of charge.

When I sent other messages asking for specifics about them moving to Miyota from Soprod for the next iteration of their GMT she responded with spec changes, production dates that they were hoping to hit and then got into the “why” and revealed there may be a better price for the watch later this year…

Now maybe since I work in branding this type of differentiation means a lot to me… but I do think it’s something that helps brands like this stand apart.

I’m not saying I like the watch more than Seiko, Tudor, Sinn, Hamilton, Zodiac etc. But I also know that I can connect with this brand in this way and it adds value to me. I tend to be a “believer” in brands.

Bonus point I was born in New York City…

Oh… I also got my brother hooked on them and she made the connection that he might be my brother!

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Honestly I’ve never done a deep dive into micro brands, could anyone recommend some good ones?

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You are correct about price - some of my faves are 500 to 800 bucks

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“What do you generally look for in a microbrand? What are the reasons you choose this watch versus that watch?”

Affordable pricing for a decent trade off in value.

So far the watch usually is affordable and has a iconic reputation behind it or at least is well known in the community already.